Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
bigtoepfer

x3 oyaji wagon

Recommended Posts

These wheels are made by Hayashi racing and are called the''Yayoi wheel''

http://www.hayashiracing.com/whee07yayoi/Screen.Shot.2017.03.06.at.1.33.41_zpstcs

Good luck finding a set.The OG ones are discontinued,and the remakes are sold out.

I like the Techno phantoms download_zpsbm3ysmeo.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

dude. there's a set of ssr mk1s on craigs here. 4 lug = so many additional options.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How do you resurrect a thread on JZXProject?

With a mothafuckin JZ that's how.  I started to post how the 4M died.  And it was time for the third head gasket, blah blah blah.  But ya'll know better.
JZS155 VVTi 2JZ-GE.  Searching on the internet, toymods would lead you to believe this was a normal ass engine you find every day.  But it looks like the first production VVTi motor.  Which is convenient because non-dbw and map.  And the ECU is meant to be inside the car. 

Also that manifold is wild.

82977435_10102029882756101_181243866089783296_o.jpg

83897543_10102029882416781_8231702025654501376_o.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

whaaaaat is that exh manifold. how did kyle fit that in the prius? how are you ditching the linkage gas pedal for a cable? the world wonders...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Today on as the world rotates...I can only add two files at a time.
Imagine what I said when we pulled the heat shield off and saw that manifold for the first time.  We are trying to find a mid pipe that will bolt up to it and clear the idler arm.  Gonna see what we can do.  Otherwise just gonna order something longtube and cheap I guess.  Crazy that this was designed for the crown.  I suppose for even torque down low?  but also quietness?

83091394_10102029882935741_1791214457234391040_o.jpg

83263001_10102029883215181_7105351843030499328_o.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought the fact that they reused old NON VVTi 2J cam for the exhaust side was wild on the early production VVTi motor.

83017807_10102031023594851_1295393442490220544_o.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not a surprise, Toyota put out some 7Ms that still had the mechanical fuel pump cam, and distributor drive gear on the oil pump drive shaft, that was last used on a 4M.
They never did stop putting in the mechanical fuel pump flange, and the distributor hole in the block. Hell, they were still pressing in the bronze bushing for the distributor shaft into the block until the end.

Sometimes someone misses a production meeting, things don't get updated,
or they are sitting with 5,000 cams in stock, and just want to use them up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

lol. so i went to pull my exhaust off the IS today and the manifold welded itself to the midpipe at the flange. im going to have to cut it off or something equally stupid. wish i had your probs.

keeping the old steering? : |

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Saw a similar non-DBW VVTi engine last time I was at an importer. I thought it could've been from a Crown but it definitely didn't have that wtf manifold. Was probably JZX101

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

4M is out and engine bay is cleaned up.  Current plans are keep old steering.  So hoping that if a midpipe will mate to this manifold it will clear the idler arm.  Otherwise lloyd was telling me he bought a cheap longtube header that he thought would clear and it didn't, he did some modifications and made it work.  No real info i've found of one that does work to just clear it.  I have heard clips of what an OBX header with resonator sounds like and it sounds glorious.  But if an OBX header doesn't fit, then I don't want to spend $350 just to have to cut it up to clear the idler arm.  When I could have gotten a cheap $150 ebay joint. I'm not trying to make tons of power.  Just trying to cruise reliably and get better MPGs.   Not saying I don't want to cruise at 120 or so.  Just want to be able to cruise reliably.

Right now for what a midpipe might cost to make this work it might be cheaper to just get a cheap long tube header and call it a day.


@ChriSOL
If I did change the steering I'd love to go with an electric assist rack and do away with power steering stuff all together.   Shouldn't be that hard should it?  Plus it would take up less space.

I saw a guy just recently put up his x32 for sale with 1j that doesn't run but has x8 front cross member and all x8 stuff up front.  I'm tempted to go that route too.  Because I could just put a pickup rear end in the car, and x8 stuff up front and then go 5 lug.    I need a new rear end anyway and I'm trying to figure out what to do.
I have a lead on a replacement from a guy up in BC.  He's willing to ship it to me for the cost of shipping.  

84115815_10102043439119041_6384777955645587456_o.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

electric would be easier? ive only driven one car w electric power steering and i hated it but it seems like it would be easy to tune it however you wanted it to feel?

 

x8 stuff is relatively easy, i have both aw11 and x7 racks w mounts for steering rack options but havent decided which way to go.

rear ends: i’ve had a complete x8 rear subframe under the car, if youre willing to cut and weld and lose some of the floor space in the rear its possible, other option is ford 8.8 rear with custom 3/4 link, weld on spring perches. explorer rear ends are cheap in yards and come w disc brakes and lsd

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

1 hour ago, ChriSOL said:

rear ends: i’ve had a complete x8 rear subframe under the car, if youre willing to cut and weld and lose some of the floor space in the rear its possible, other option is ford 8.8 rear with custom 3/4 link, weld on spring perches. explorer rear ends are cheap in yards and come w disc brakes and lsd

I was considering going S10 since it's slightly narrower and has LSD options.  I was gonna run it on the leafs.  Thought the same thing with explorer.

I was talking to some friends about going 4 or 5 link.  But it would be near the same amount of fab work as a IRS it seems.  However with a linked rear end I bet I could get it super stable in the corners and increase towing capacity.  Increase it as much as you might feel safe with a car as light as it is.   I contacted Justin and for now I'm just gonna put the other wagon rear in it.  I'll be a cheap ass because I don't have money for fab work.  And I want to drive the damn thing.  It's my daily, or its supposed to be anyway.

I'm trying to figure out what I need as far as springs go for the front to lower it.  I know I can use Koni MR2 inserts for a cut-a-strut setup for slammed on the cheap, and I'm thinking I might go that way.  No real decisions made yet.  This was supposed to be my forever car.  But now that I've got a kid coming in a few months and thinking about how realistically unsafe it is, I might considering upgrading to a slightly safer X90 or something.  Sour that, that GX91 popped up in houston for 6500 right after I got my motor.  It's manual too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, ChriSOL said:

x8 stuff is relatively easy, i have both aw11 and x7 racks w mounts for steering rack options but havent decided which way to go.

Wait, do you mean you are still working on your wagon?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

always, even if it means going out to the garage and just cleaning the accumulated shit off of it.

right now i’ve got x8 front struts w x7 tophats (i think? i’ve had x3, x6 and x7 shit cobbled together at different points). ive got the x3 crossmember with an aw11 rack sitting on it, tie rods threaded into x8 ends on the knuckles (i think?). i was doing mix and match stuff looking for the right combination of parts that fit and didnt fuck up geometry in an obvious way. put a pin in it so i could do a better job measuring and getting it right. now its a bunch of different parts in piles next to the wheels.

steering stuff is x7 column needing an extended shaft to meet either the aw11 or x7 rack ill end up using, talked to a guy that went the aw11 way because he claimed it didnt need power steering. same guy did an 8.8 rear too, but he sold the car and i lost contact w him.

i had an x8 rear end under the car and i’d been marking the floor and rails up and seeing what i’d need to cut and weld to make it work, but i let it go to someone who needed it and the replacement is still bolted to the x8 parts car.

been making things happen w the other cars more recently but i will get back to this one... eventually.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ps: t3 has been making a lot of this dumb procrastinaty shit unnecessary in the years since i started fucking w it. you can get a lot of off-the-shelf parts to make steering and suspension happen now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was mostly surprised that you still have it/still working on it.  I haven't heard about it in years.

I know I can get the whole T3 strut assembly setup for the front. But I've wondered it its worth it.  Because then I'm locked in to X3 brakes?(I'm not sure on this)  I was hoping to go X7 brakes at least  something vented and a little better than the solid disks I've got.  If that opens me up to using newer brakes then it would be fine.  I don't really need to be ultra low.

For a little more than what T3 charges I can get the Izanami stuff from Japan.  Which would be arguably better quality for not much more money.  If its really going to be my forever car/project that's the route I'd go.  I'm not concerned about angle so I'm not overly concerned about getting extra lock like some people who want to competitively drift their X3s.  I just want to enjoy driving it.   Which is why unless my current steering situation goes fubar I don't really need to change it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

^ even w t3 you should be able to call gabe and tell him what youre doing and have the “right” combo of parts assembled. i was going to steal the megans off my x8 when i got different coilovers and find a camber plate solution that works for the x3 strut towers.

youre on the right track. ill be following your build until the plug gets pulled.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I read recently that they are on back order or some crap?

OH! can you do me a favor? Aren't you near Dallas?  I'm considering calling a yard up there and driving up to pull some parts off of a blue wagon that is supposedly located there. I'm an idiot.  I just called.  Apparently there is a Dallas in North Carolina as well.  (-__-)

I really need some tail light lenses and other miscellaneous parts.  Looks like it has good mirrors, I could use those too.  But who knows how old the photos are and if the car itself is even there any more.  It's supposedly at Hoopers Used Auto Parts.  I just never get around to calling during business hours.

Unless you aren't anywhere near Dallas.  I'm gonna try to call them tomorrow and see the status of the car.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

He is, unless he ever comes to San Antonio again for a day, and drag Rue back down here.
Chris, don't tell me you are allergic to cats......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been needing to get to San Antonio.  I haven't been in probably 15 years or more, and my wife wants to visit the Riverwalk and other things.  Plus I can finally meet the famous Gordo.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@ChriSOL or @Gordo  any idea of a hub for the steering that has a small enough horn ring?  I don't want to buy 10 chinese hubs to find that one if someone already knows the one.

If the NRG one works I'll get that.  I've already got an NRG quick release.  My current boss hub the ring for the horn isn't anywhere near close.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anything for the same vintage Supra should work.
Never used anything from NRG, just Momo, but people up here (that supposedly never come by any longer) have.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got an NRG adapter for my Personal wheel to a Momo hub. Neither style horn ring fit so I ground the shit out of the adapter until one of the rings could seat inside it. Granted, I did buy it in 2013 but I wouldn't be surprised if their parts were still shit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd avoid anything chinese, I tried that once and it rounded out taking my intermediate shaft with it.  Boss Works Bell has always worked for me, but I guess it's different for the older x3s. 

Take this with a grain of salt cause I've always assumed NRG was trash.  But recently I've been told their products are more solid.  Maybe they are trying the Hyundai approach.  Too late for me though I'll just always assume they're shit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, WhoreMouth_Jr said:

I'd avoid anything chinese, I tried that once and it rounded out taking my intermediate shaft with it.  Boss has always worked for me, but I guess it's different for the older x3s. 

Take this with a grain of salt cause I've always assumed NRG was trash.  But recently I've been told their products are more solid.  Maybe they are trying the Hyundai approach.  Too late for me though I'll just always assume they're shit.

I assumed all the boss hubs were chinese.  Thats what I have here.  It works, just not for the horn.  The NRG is used and was given to me for free.  So its MEH it works and no problems with it.   Never really found alternatives that weren't super expensive.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×