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BoristheCat

Sleeper MX83 build

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I believe you keep forgetting... I'm using your favorite transmission of all time, the CD009.

 

No speedo cable anymore. Repurposing an ABS sensor from a random lexus at the junk yard fed to a Dakota Digital box will allow me to correct the speedo.

 

It's all good though. I read through your entire thread, but it's been awhile.

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I believe you keep forgetting... I'm using your favorite transmission of all time, the CD009.

 

LoL, yeah......

My brain seems to block out bad memmories.

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Hah, understandable.

 

Got my shift knob in the mail. I'm pretty happy with it, it's in good shape. It's really light weight, so I'll probably weight my shift rod a little bit right below the knob where it will be covered up by the boot.

 

g6aOLuol.jpg

 

XNujQaMl.jpg

 

 

Big step forward, I finished my wire harness.

 

rQJQwYml.jpg

 

 

The whole thing has been sleeved with pvc and then completely sleeved over with snakeskin (resin impregnated fiberglass) to help with resistance with chemicals and heat.

 

Every connector has been replaced with new OEM ones. The chassis side that goes to the ECU is unterminated so far, but will be once the dash is mostly back together.

 

I have to verify that everything sits on the motor the way I want, and then I can do the main splices in the harness and smooth everything out.

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Why ? (weighting a shift knob)

Are you limp wristed, or have pencil stick arms ?

Or don't you follow through on your shift strokes ?

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Got a lot of the engine bay work done.

 

dR9LjwTl.jpg

 

RJqJs4vl.jpg

 

AlzSYEUl.jpg

 

 

Also installed the wire harness and buttoned up the engine the rest of the way. I need to finish some power steering lines and such, but then it's ready for drop-in.

 

The bumper and lip have been stripped down to the plastic and are ready for prep and paint.

 

Hoping to paint everything within the next month.

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A for effort.

I'm happy with an engine bay just being clean & rust free.

 

Question....

Will the filler stand up to exhaust heat, and chassis flex ?

 

Bonus points for non-chinky chinaman radiator.

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Thanks man. The filler I used is "Evercoat 112 Rage Gold Premium". Sands so much better than regular Bondo. Goes on buttery smooth, mixes easy, cures quickly and doesn't leave any pinholes.

 

It holds up well to both heat and flexing from everything I've read so far. People are really happy with it.

 

I'm trying to keep it as thin as possible. I don't want giant quarter inch slabs of bondo if I can avoid it.

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Thanks for the info, it will be tucked away in case of future needs.

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A for effort.

I'm happy with an engine bay just being clean & rust free.

 

Question....

Will the filler stand up to exhaust heat, and chassis flex ?

 

Bonus points for non-chinky chinaman radiator.

 

 

is that a legit question about filler?

pretty sure early koyos were china made and not japan made.

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Bolted some stuff together. I don't have my clutch yet, but I'm going to do a test fit of the motor to see where everything lines up.

 

4HEZVagl.jpg

 

y0T71nYl.jpg

 

 

Cut the transmission tunnel some more. As members have said previously, the bearing plate is the biggest problem I'm running into. In this picture, the bearing plate is between 12" to 15" ahead of the end of the shifter bracket.

 

HG3QTWCl.jpg

 

 

 

I believe that just widening the tunnel at the bearing plate will be all I need to do to clear things. Then I will weld it all back up after the test fit. The green MS paint rectangle is where I need to bump things out slightly to make things fit.

 

dUGWNRHl.jpg

 

 

As long as the mounting points for the center console are left intact, which they will be, I think everything should still fit well.

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Interesting, I thought that was only necessary for the x73. It makes sense though, since the twins are flush with the back of the head. The bulge inward on the firewall for the ac evap looks like what I might have to cut out and weld a flat patch in... I'll see during test fitting. I also don't recall Zach saying he had to beat the firewall at all

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Curious to see how everything fits with the auto trans bell adapter. Going with the mavericks kit was a huge mistake, second only to going CD in the first place.

 

Hopefully you don't ruin your car as much as I ruined mine. At least you don't have an abortion shifter.

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mistake, second only to going CD in the first place.

 

 

Baffles the shit out of me why people keep sticking those wide ratio boxes in what is supposed to be a performance car.

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They're cheap and relatively tough. Far as I can tell that's about it.

 

Won't be cheap for long now that there are enough kits out for the less mechanically inclined to figure out how to swap them. Vtec 1j's are up like 50% from when I bought mine now that there's enough info out there for those same dummies to figure our how to wire them up.

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"Cheap" makes me think of Hondas, Crown Vics, chrome 15" wheels, and Pep Boys 'buy 3, get one free' tires.

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I got it in fellas.

 

Just finished cleaning up at 10 pm on a work night. Gotta be up at 3:30, so I'll post pics and vids tomorrow. It worked out really well.

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ZSLhqp1l.jpg

 

 

dfcEmPPl.jpg

 

 

sr9ZVcMl.jpg

 

 

 

 

Finally! There's so much room on either side of the block it's ridiculous. So much easier to deal with than the 7M, I'm pretty impressed.

 

Glad Demesio warned me about the firewall. Had to do a little chopping to clear the rear turbo.

 

 

FK16AWql.jpg

 

 

The shifter will shift in its current location, but I might make a bracket to stack on top of the existing one to extend it a little further forward. It still works in its current placement without hitting the center console, despite it being fairly far back.

 

g23CkJyl.jpg

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I expected the shifter to be even further back. Thats not too terrible but I'm a midget so that wouldn't work for me haha.

 

Solid progress, still gotta swing by and check it out sometime

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Yeah for sure. I'm going to be doing a bunch of stuff on it this weekend with my autobody homie hopefully. You can roll by and peep it if you want

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Looks good man, any room to go forward on the mounts? Also, is the trans all the way inside the frame rails? If so that's money.

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Yes, on both accounts. This is with the motor almost all the way back on the mounts. I want it as far back as possible for better weight distribution. If I make that little bracket for the shifter so I can slide it even further back, I will.

 

The coolant overflow reservoir on the stock IS300 fan shroud is a little too close to where the upper radiator hose will go, which is more reason to move it back.

 

The trans looks like it's all the way within the frame rails. I'll be able to confirm tonight hopefully.

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I didn't realize you had an IS300 fan/shroud. I just picked up one. Does it look like the upper radiator hose will clear the reservoir? The reservoir is convenient, I hope to be able to use it.

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I haven't bought my radiator hoses yet, so I'm not sure. It's going to be a very close fit though, that's for sure. My motor is slid all the way back on the mounts as far as it will go currently. If you buy a thick radiator, you're screwed.

 

If you stay with the Koyorad you have, you should be fine. I bought an IS300 Koyorad radiator so the stock fan/shroud would bolt right to it.

 

 

 

Plumbed in my intercooler. Everything clears, from the bumper to the headlights and grill. I used a holesaw to cut out the stock locations in the core support that were intended to be cut out for other x chassis with intercoolers.

 

I also routed my wires through the firewall and into the interior. The fat red wire is my starter wire poking into the bay.

 

 

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Overall the bay is so much cleaner than before...

 

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Yuck.

 

 

The amount of room on both sides of the motor makes it so easy to work on.

 

6cjcUCKl.jpg

 

 

Glad I didn't keep trying to limp by on the 7M. Now I understand why people say not to dump any money into it.

 

Welded my wideband O2 bung onto my exhaust. Here's the CD009 barely resting on the stock mount, which I may be able to modify to make it work. You can't really tell in the pic, but the trans is only an inch or so below the frame rails.

 

Once I build a wider section into the tunnel to fit the bearing plate, I should be able to lift the tail of the trans higher and it should tuck nicely.

 

zzQeBFPl.jpg

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