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BoristheCat

Sleeper MX83 build

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I'm with benny (the newb that didn't read the rules about doing an intro).

Why didn't you use an electric sensor made to go in the trans ?

Seems like a wheel sensor will be more work, and the trans sensor would be plug & play.

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The 350z trans doesn't use a sensor on the transmission. From my research, I believe it uses ABS sensors on all four wheels to calculate vehicle speed.

 

Some nissans have sensors in the diff too from what I've seen.

 

The 300zx used a plastic gear style sensor with a digital output for it's signal, but they did away with that for the 350z from what I can tell.

 

I couldn't put any sort of sensor in the trans if I wanted to.

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Sorry, forgot you went with that box........Never Mind.

(Note: I did not used the term 'booby trans', or 'POS')

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I overlooked it the last time I read your post, but I didn't see that you got a 1G tach. I'm also curios to see how you adapt the seatbelt.
I initially wanted to try gathering all the parts from a Canadian or AUDM mx83 for a b-pillar mounted seatbelt, but there is no bolt thread on the USDM Cressida for a b-pillar mount.

I just unplugged my auto belt at the B-pillar position. It's fixed now. lol

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There will be a little welding involved to mount the seatbelts. The clip piece that plugs into the receiving piece will just be sewn on. Nothing too dramatic.

 

Accidentally left my welding bottle open for the second time in a year and it all leaked out. I'll exchange it in a few days and get my seatbelts sorted out and start farting around in the engine bay

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it leaked out?

 

you using a $5 Chinese welder?

 

I can forget my bottle open for like a month and it will still be full... worth looking into... especially if your welding gas coverage is as shitty as some of the other welds ive seen on here recently. if its leaking your probably getting oxygen in your covering gas and your welds will be forever grey and full of impurities. hose is cheap and so are the fittings.

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No.......

Oxygen won't enter a pressurized system.

 

And good welding practice is to close the bottles when you are done.

 

Boristhewelder, but you might want to go around your system with a spray bottle of soapy water when you have a full bottle, just to see if you have any large leaks.

Also check the valve on the bottle (should be done at the gas supply place when you pick it up), as I've got bottles that leak around the valve stem, or have nicks on the taper where the regulator seals against.

Lick your thumb, put it over the outlet of the bottle, if it bubbles the valve it's self is leaking.

Tell them you want a bottle that isn't leaking, or doesn't have nicks in the sealing surface.

They usually keep a close eye on the condition of them, but once in a while, one will slip through.

A leaking stem can be addressed just by tightening the gland nut a little.

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I close my bottles every time I finish welding... except for twice, when it all leaked out.

 

I believe it's leaking at the regulator. If I detach the regulator, it doesn't leak from the bottle when it's closed.

 

The atmosphere has claimed about $100 of my welding gas, oh well.

 

I should probably throw some plumber's tape where the regulator meets the bottle... I haven't done that and I probably should.

 

I have no problem admitting that I'm a scrub when it comes to welding

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The Teflon tape is a bad idea...

Any of it shreds, and gets into the solenoid valve, you will have a lot larger problem.

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Interesting. It's not the fanciest regulator which is why it might be leaking, so I guess I'll just remove it every time I'm done welding. I'll do the bubble check as you suggested though.

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you should just be able to close the bottle valve too. no need to pull a regulator.

 

 

I get the "smart top" bottles from Air Liquide and they have a lever to open and close the bottle.... mainly because its easy as hell to see if they are open or closed. pretty sure you need the big boy argon tanks though for them and not the little hobby tanks.

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'Hobby tanks' - LoL !

Is that why I'm constantly running to get my bottle filled......

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If this is a bad idea, somebody stop me...

 

I don't have enough room in the stock water neck to put the water temp sensor for my AEM gauge. I'm keeping my 2JZ stock water temp sensor and feeding it into my stock cluster.

 

I was thinking of removing the plug I installed to block off my throttle body coolant line and tap the hole for my AEM sensor.

 

CYWRVg7l.jpg

 

Since the sensor would be threaded directly into the head, I wonder if it would be subject to substantially more heat soak and then give me an inaccurate reading...

 

Opinions? I haven't seen this done before and I'm debating if it is wise or not.

 

On my 22r, the temp sensor is threaded into the intake manifold. The sensor sticks out a little bit from the face and then goes into a hole in the head once the manifold is attached to the head.

 

If Toyota did this on a stock engine, I'd imagine there's nothing wrong with putting my aftermarket one into the head.

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uhh i am using the stock water temp sensor on the water neck for my AEM infinity just fine. If you wanna do something productive, you could put a water pressure sensor to that port.

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Crap, I meant to say temp SENDER, not sensor.

 

It's just for my gauge, not for an aftermarket ECU.

 

I think the stock 2J temp sender to the dash and the AEM sender to the AEM gauge have different resistance values for the temperature. I don't think I could use one sender to go to both and have them both be accurate readings.

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^^ Also using similar sender in jz and uz cars for x7 dash works fine. 3uz or something from toyota

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Demesio, I have the same temp sender you posted. I know it will work for my dash, I'm just wondering if it will also give the correct values to my AEM water temp gauge. I guess I can just splice it into the stock JZ temp sender and see how accurate it is.

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Yeah, pretty much.

 

That gauge is pretty neato. Would buy it off you if I actually liked digital gauges.

 

 

 

In other news, my trusty truck is back on the road and runs like a top.

 

Riding a street bike in the douching Seattle rain when your daily driver is out of commission is not a pleasant experience. You Texans and Arizonians should be thankful that you actually get to see blue sky in April.

 

Now that the truck is fixed, I'll be able to focus on getting the car body wiring done and do a systems check in a few weeks hopefully.

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Thanks Lofty

 

CGnXZEml.jpg

 

 

This is in the mail as well. JDM swag limit reached

 

ppvbCKxl.jpg

 

giphy.gif

 

 

Also added my temp sender for my AEM gauge in the head. Drilled, tapped and ready to go.

 

pnCqQrjl.jpg

 

 

Mocked up my speedo and gauges. Got everything wired. Just have to terminate the body end to throw power to the gauges.

 

vCy1CqVl.jpg

 

 

Aaaaaalllllmost done routing the wires from the fusebox in the trunk to the front of the car. Should be able to check the body systems within the next week or two hopefully.

 

LCotGssl.jpg

 

If it wasn't obvious already, it's a lot of work to relocate the fusebox to the trunk. Now that I've done it once, it's really not that bad. It's taken me a stupid amount of time to do it, and I would not recommend this mod for a noob.

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liD4HVsl.jpg

 

XJs2ICBl.jpg

 

 

A video of my progress. I'm pretty excited despite my monotone voice.

 

https://www.youtube.com/embed/EHmfwHyDxeE

 

 

All chassis electrical works so far. After I took that video however, instrument backlighting and ignition does not. I suspect I have a crossed wire in a system somewhere. I've been troubleshooting it for a few days but still can't figure it out. I will probably take a short break from electrical for a while.

 

I'm still happy with my progress since the wiring fits easily within the stock locations along the door jams without issue, including the fatty 1/0 wiring. Aside from the backlighting issue that's driving me insane, I'm close to done with the body electrical side of things.

 

My engine harness is almost done as well. I'm just waiting on a few more connectors and sleeving and then I can slap it onto the motor.

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Nice that you have the 9k tach, but you didn't go to the 180 mph speedo...

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Lol... can someone comment on what it feels like traveling at 150+ in a Cressida?

 

I know that the 2j is a heavy-ass motor and would probably keep the front end down just fine, but I doubt I'll be pushing the 140mph limit on this speedo.

 

I have the matching 180kph speedo... the lettering reads "km/h". I guess I could just cover up the k and it would read "m/h" and then I could recalibrate it.

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Been over 150 several times in mine....Rock solid.

And I did black-out the KPH lettering.

 

Hint....

People make KPH to MPH gear reduction boxes that install in line on the speedo cable.

(guess you never read through my build thread)

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