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BoristheCat

Sleeper MX83 build

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how about a harness for a 3sge beams to ae86? I'm getting to the point of being too busy to work on my own shit.

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I just use side cutters to strip wires. Used to do a ton of pyrotechnic setup wiring and the switch from stripers to cutters was a game changer. Haven't touched a set of stripers since. That being said, it probably has to be a decent set of side cutters for it to be viable. The added versatility is a godsend.

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Have used a pocket knife, and in a pinch, I've just my teeth....

With that said, I've lost track of how many styles of wire strippers, and crimp tools I have now.

I love my interchangeable jaw crimp pliers, have 3 or 4 of them, and who knows how many jaw sets.

 

Anything critical just gets soldered, and heat shrinked.

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Where the hell are you buying your tools? Im pretty sure I can get better prices on the tool truck lol 40 doll hairs for a pin extractor? Fuck that. My 3 doll hair hook and pick set from harbor fright does the same job. Then again Im super cheap.

Paid 42 bucks for my terminal crimper pliers from the Mac truck. And that was only because I was lazy to drive to northern tool.

You can crimp bigger gauge wires with a hammer and chisel if you know what youre doing.

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These tools are all being bought off ebay. They are used, but in good condition. I prefer Japanese or American tools.

 

I have no doubt that your $3 pick from harbor freight does fine. Once you use certain high quality tools though, you never want to go back.

 

Trying to pick .040 terminals out of my 2J stock connectors gets old when the wrong pick is used and you end up shredding shit. The FR-150 pics work amazing.

 

Crimping large gauge wire with a hammer and chisel is very ghetto, but if you're comfortable with doing that, be my guest.

 

 

Keep in mind that a full crimp compresses the copper strands into a solid block of copper, which prevents any moisture or corrosion from being introduced.

 

If you use a hammer style crimper, it isn't nearly as weather proof.

 

I also don't like the idea of relying on inconsistent strikes from a hammer to stake lugs.

 

A hydraulic tool with dies ensures accurate repeatability.

 

Here's a great video that explains lugging large wires in more detail. It even has a link to a Chinese tool you can buy for cheap if you don't want a high quality unit!

 

 

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Old saying around machine shops "you can put an idiot on a brand new machine, and get junk, or you can put a good machinist on the most worn out POS machine you have, and he will make good parts."

 

So don't go knocking on odd ways to crimp wire connections.

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I'm still on the hammer crimp for anything larger than 6g. But a year or 2 back I bought some nice crimpers to do wiring with. They weren't cheap probably 100 bucks a piece. 1 could only do 10g and 12g the other 14g,16g, and 18g. Without a doubt one of my favorite purchases in a while. The weatherpak shit is rad. Redid most of front chassis harness with them because 30+ year old plugs kinda blow.

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I'm not saying there's anything wrong with the hammer method. If it is secure, safe and transfers the power, then it's a successful crimp.

 

In all reality I think I just wanted an excuse to buy a sweet tool lol

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Im all for excuses to buy tools. I got suckered in to buying a new punch and chisel set. I already had a punch and chisel set that did the job just fine. But I wanted that sweet snap on clock that came with the new set.

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AEM dry filter. My really cheesy CXracing intake came with a really really cheesy filter. This is really a K&N filter, but it's made for AEM. No oil required, which is cool. MKIV supra guys are all pretty happy with this filter.

 

uRyoZFtl.jpg

 

 

Also picked this up for only $120 shipped off fleabay.

 

JItXJaUl.jpg

 

dKetd11l.jpg

 

Stock IS300 fans with shroud and koyo radiator. You really can't argue with the price on this one. MKIV guys are pretty happy with this fan setup for several reasons:

 

-not too noisy

 

-reliable

 

-affordable

 

-has radiator puke tank built in, so you don't have to clutter your bay

 

-only draws 28 amps or so with both fans on full blast. Much lower than dual flex-a-lites or others that require 60 amps or more.

 

 

 

Not to mention, it's damn near a drop in fit! The rubber mounts on the bottom need to be moved slightly, but that's it.

 

 

 

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The fan will be controlled through two temp sensors and a relay configuration as follows:

 

fj9xVVQl.jpg

 

 

Also started on configuring the battery, breaker and fuse box. Still in mock-up mode for now though.

 

EljOx5Jl.jpg

 

AFz0WZol.jpg

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And just what kind of power are you planning to make, with a filter smaller than I had on my son's 100cc kart engine ?

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That's too small Boris...

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Probably not the first time he's heard that 😂

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Battleaxe - that overflow tank is under the tray, the cap is built in the tray.

 

Hey Boris do you mind taking a picture of the bottom of the radiator and how the mounts at the bottom sit?

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Correct on the puke tank.

 

I can take a picture in a few days, I'm busy with stuff at the moment. To give you a better idea, here's the location of the stock IS300 mounts, circled in green.

 

From memory, the MX83 mounts on the core support are roughly where I circled in red.

 

k6bVKQtl.jpg

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You barely have to mod either the radiator or where it mounts to the core support at all.

 

Take a cutting wheel, cut the mounts off the core support and then just move them in and weld.

 

Done.

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Welp, my truck just got stolen.

 

This project will probably be on delay until I can recover the money from buying a used vehicle that is at least a little bit theft-proof.

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Holy shit, found my truck! It was only a few blocks away. A coworker who happened to notice it when he was driving by told me, and I told the cops. They checked it out and sure enough, there it was.

 

Nothing got stolen. No windows got broken. No ignition tumblers got screwdrivered. I have had a few people test their old, worn out Toyota keys on my truck, and they have been able to open the door no problem.

 

I'm thinking a bum got into it and just ran it for a while to get warm and pass out.

 

The MR2 sway bar was still behind the seat so I could paint it at my apartment. If that was gone, I would have had to source new sway bar brackets, bushings, a bar, and do all the fab work.

 

Thank god. What an emotional rollercoaster of a fucking day, jesus.

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