Jump to content
BoristheCat

Sleeper MX83 build

Recommended Posts

Yep, that's what I did. Shot high build onto doors, hood etc and blocked all of them. Now all surfaces are ready for 050 black sealer. 

 

I've heard prep is incredibly important at this stage. De-greasing, tack clothing, dust removal etc is critical to make a perfect paint job. 

 

I've come this far, not gonna start cutting corners this late in the game

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update: If you like autobody and paint, you likely:

Have masochistic tendencies

Enjoy sniffing various volatile fumes for recreational purposes 

Are fucked in the head 

 

 

I'll admit it. I should have bought a shitty 240 or beat up honda hatch for a project car.

I think I'm finally part of the brotherhood. I hate my fucking car.

I no longer enjoy working on it and I've never even driven it since I removed the 7M.

 

Updates to follow

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Keep in mind, you can only do so much.

If using a tack cloth, get it kinda "dirty" first. The first few swipes of a tack clotch always have some kinda residue to it. Can use a microfiber too to grab all the bits. U pretty much can't fuck up until clear. 

 

Base coat just needs good coverage in terms of how many coats.  Put your light all over the base to make sure you got good coverage. If it feels kinda rough after last coat that's likely overspray that settled on top. Once it's flashed off and dry to the touch, you can test an area for a tack cloth of microfiber. If it's not dry enough if will streak.

Clear is medium coat first, and adjust for second coat. Some ppl do a tack coat, so super light, can have an issue not melting as good into the second coat. Read the instructions for the paint manufacturer for flash off times to apply second coat.  When ppl say x coats of clear, that's not an accurate measurements of thickness cause every coat is different in thickness. U can take a paint measure stick if u want to accurately measure but no one will ever care. It's only relevant when wet sanding the clear or cut polishing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if doing it in your garage make sure you check your humidity level. i live here in texas where the humidity is bad and painted mine in the garage and got some bad orange peel spots

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
23 hours ago, Gibbs said:

if doing it in your garage make sure you check your humidity level. i live here in texas where the humidity is bad and painted mine in the garage and got some bad orange peel spots

Humidity doesn't cause orange peel. Orange peel comes from a variety of sources. Your gun, gun setup, the paint itself and how it flows, speed at which you spray, spraying too light, too far away. Humidity would cause paint defects due to airborne water in the air.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I saw your comment about hanging your doors from the frames... Don't do that. With the door laying down, spray the inside first, then clear and let cure, then flip over and repeat. The edges will melt together so don't worry about creating a clear "shell". You get WAYYY glassier results on any part you can lay down since the clear is less likely to run. Doors especially are best to take advantage of laying horizontally. everyone loves to see doors with deep glass reflection.

$1000 for base is pretty typical for a quality base with a bit of metallic. That's what I paid for my Champagne.

Great progress so far. Can't wait for the final product, but don't rush it man. Just breathe. I know it's a lot of grueling and tedious work, but do it once, do it right because cutting a corner now will live forever in your paint and you'll be pissed every time, beating yourself up "why did I cut that corner". Just find serenity man. You got this.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 8/17/2020 at 12:43 PM, battleaxe said:

Humidity doesn't cause orange peel. Orange peel comes from a variety of sources. Your gun, gun setup, the paint itself and how it flows, speed at which you spray, spraying too light, too far away. Humidity would cause paint defects due to airborne water in the air.

ahh ok im just a shit and need to step my game up then haha

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fuck this car. I give up.

After fucking up my sealer the first time, it turned out to be an o-ring inside the gun that I forgot to put back after I cleaned it.  I didn't have enough pressure at the tip due to it leaking out from just ahead of the trigger. It ended up looking like barbecue texture when it landed on the panels. It was rough as shit when I ran my hand over it after it dried.

 

Spent another 30 hours blocking all the sealer back down to where it was before, so there wasn't any rough texture in it.

Finally shot the sealer again today and it's filled with dust.  There's some tiger striping here and there, it has orange peel in it, and it looks like fucking shit.

 

I've done everything right. I wet the garage floor.  Had a fan in, and a fan out.  Got all the dust off of everything.  Degreased everything. Tack ragged everything. Got my mix ratios right.

Now I get to spend another 30 some fucking hours scuffing and blocking every surface for the second time so that the basecoat will adhere to it.

Then the base will likely have dust in it, and so will the clear I'm sure. So what the fuck do I do?  Every step is going to come out looking like fucking ass.

 

Fuck autobody and paint.  I have spent probably 300 hours in bodywork and paint, just to have everything keep going to shit. 

I just want to throw this car out. I fucking hate it. Four years and I haven't even driven it. Over 40k into it now. I want my garage and my life back

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

take this time to figure out your gun. your fan, fluid control etc. the dust in a lot of cases will wipe off with a tac rag. spraying base is about consistency so max that fan out and play with the volume. every gun and area is different for gun pressure. should be 15-25psi. 25psi is on the high end.  if its blowing shit back at you, turn it down.

 

take a step back and realize this isnt your day job and theres a reason why paint and body is so expensive. its why i tell ppl to do it last after they drive and enjoy the car, but thats not here nor there. once you realize everything sucks but a coat of paint that one colour will make you happy at the end of the day. i guarantee that coat of base will rejuvenate you. also remember you can spray the base and clear again after all of this if it doesnt turn out great and you can pay someone some day if you want it mint.  focus on one step at a time and take a deep breath now and then.

 

once its one colour you'll be happy to drive it around at least and then worry about perfection later. you'll learn a lot, no matter how much you kick and scream.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@battleaxe This 100%. 

Yes, seeing that first shot of base will totally reignite the motivation, I promise.

If you’re getting bad results, just focus on spraying sealer on one part that is quick and easy to fix until your settings are solid. For instance, a door. Don’t practice on the most complex canvas with all those curves.

Also when you said 30psi, I immediately thought your pressure is too high. Especially with something as diluted as sealer. Try 20psi.

You’ll get it. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now

×