Sleeper MX83 build

[WhoreMouth_Jr 0]

haha they mad cause they can't afford one for their cars no doubt!  I'm telling you even if it might be overkill I've never regretted going dual plate in my car.  It isn't any stiffer than the normal clutch in the v8 car. 10/10 will buy again.   Solid progress!

Ever hear back from the russians? Gotta be approaching 9months by now

 

[BoristheCat 0]

^^yep, I'm convinced that's the case. It's the same people that build their cars as cheap as possible and then wonder why their shit breaks all the time lol. 

Everyone I've talked to with a twin loves the pedal feel... I'm excited to see how it drives.

I'm thinking the Russian con artist got snatched up by some fellow Russians he ripped off. He's probably sitting in a gulag in Siberia eating stale rye bread and boiled potatoes

[WhoreMouth_Jr 0]

I don't know about that he's been in the x7 group collecting money for the initial group by-in for their upcoming x7 kit.

And ya I'm a firm believer it do it right the first time and only time haha

[BoristheCat 0]

I'm half debating lighting his ass up on facebook.  I made a bullshit burner account a few weeks ago in order to sell stuff on marketplace.

 

I set to work fixing my crooked coilover tube.  Took the old spindle off and prepped my spare spindle.  Got my extra pair of coilover tubes in the mail the other day.

Looking at my spare spindle before welding, I noticed that the threads were questionable.  They didn't look great, so I wasn't going to be surprised if I had a problem with stripped threads.

Torqued the hub onto the new spindle and threaded the tube onto the coilover and welded a few tacks in place.

 

Went to remove the spindle nut and who would have guessed, all my threads were fucked.

 

I have no spare spindles now.  I need a replacement.  Checked eBay, Craigslist, Offerup, everywhere.  No luck.  I PM'd a few people on here hoping that they would have a spare, but no responses yet.

My build is on hold until I get a new one. I'm pretty sure there's no way to properly cut and adjust my good original spindle without something being off.

Yes mad

[Gordo 0]

You can try what I sent in a PM, but that was before I seen the damage.

Sorry, don't have any spindles.

[Demesio 0]

Damn, I forgot how expensive that clutch was. I really liked the one I had in my car and it handled great until I was making 580ish to the wheels and tried to abuse it. I have another one for a far in the future build. This next IS300 I'm going with the McLeod RST Twin Disc, they're local and damn are they giving me a hell of a price.

[BoristheCat 0]

The clutch came in the mail.  I was blown away by how nice of a unit it is.  The only thing I'm slightly concerned about is the thickness of the material on the discs.  There doesn't appear to be a lot of it, so I'm wondering how much life I'll get out of it before I have to put new discs in it.

 

 

Now I just need to measure for a throwout bearing and I'll be good

[Gordo 0]

They hardly ever wear...

I think they publish min. thickness, and I probably have it save in one of my 'info' files, but don't know which one out of hundreds to look at.

[BoristheCat 0]

Excellent. I'm not planning on doing any major hard launches or clutch kicks, so it should last a while. 

Also, since both hubs are sprung, I'm assuming this thing isn't going to chatter with the clutch out... or will it chatter because of the intermediate steel plates between the clutch discs? Either way, I've heard that people with this clutch are super happy with it when they drive it on the street. If it chatters, I probably won't even care that much

[WhoreMouth_Jr 0]

Not sure how it stacks up to the exedy twin, but my plate are also sprung and I get no chatter ever.  Which I guess is good unless you wanted that multiplate chatter sound for the flex like I did =(

[BoristheCat 0]

Lol I didn't even think about that... car guys would recognize it and be into it, but everyone else would think your car was broken probably

[Gordo 0]

My un-sprung never chatters....

Chatter comes from good, soft, mushy engine & diff mounts, and/or a really fucked up flywheel.

I do get a nice cling a cling cling sound if I am at a stop light with the clutch in, barely noticeable over my exhaust note.
That isn't chatter, it's just they way those clutches sound.

[LUMBERZACK 0]

Glad I read through the updates on your thread man. Nice work on the wheel arched tucking 275's. TR-2CD, finally another man of culture. I wouldn't worry about the clutch material thickness. My buddies from Japan say their OS Gikens will out last cars and engines 10+ years. I love my TR-2CD. After 2 years, I have over 20k of daily driven miles, countless drift events, and a lot of aggressive driving and it still engages the same as new. Worthwhile investment.

Excited to see this thing driving and painted. Make sure you get the fitment A1 prior to paint since paint really doesn't like being pulled and since you put body filler on your rear arches, any massaging will crack the filler. 

 

Edit: Fuck Collin

Edit Edit: and fly by night Russian FRP manufacturers.

[BoristheCat 0]

Thanks Zach. Part of me is kind of regretting not doing S9 fiberglass fenders all around... probably would have been easier, but again, I'm really trying to keep the body looking as close to stock as possible. 

Good to hear positive feedback from you and Gordo on the long life of the 2CD.

The bodywork especially on the arches is so much fucking work... I'm just hoping it's worth it

[BoristheCat 0]

I'm very slowly making more progress with all the bodywork.  Zach was nice enough to let me call him and pick his brain for an hour in regards to bodywork and paint.  I was kind of intimidated to start filling door dings, but I ended up filling all of them in an hour or two. 

 

 

 

Blocked the surface, saw the low spot, then filled it with bondo and blocked it again.  Bodywork seems much easier if you're working on a section in a flat panel.  Things like the rear arches and the curve in the hood are much more of a pain in the ass.

 

I realized that the metal in the hood was a centimeter too low.  Since I don't have a stud puller, I had to cut the inner skeleton to access the metal in the hood to hit it and dolly it back into shape.  I then had to weld a hole in a thin section, which ended up spreading and contaminating everything. Not to mention, I would kind of have to bullshit a curve into the hood out of bondo to match the area that I circled in blue.

 

Now the hole is pretty much right on the line above the headlight.  I'm saying fuck it and finding another hood.  A member on here has one he agreed to sell to me, I just have to drive a few hours to go get it.

 

 

In other news, the Stoptech cryo rotors that I bought mid-April finally arrived on the slow boat from China.  They're ridiculously large. They're almost as big as the wheels on my 88 pickup lol.

 

 

They look great on the car. I'm super happy with how they look.  One of the last things I'm going to do is paint the yellow calipers a different color. I actually think yellow calipers against dark blue would look pretty cool, but a few people are disgusted with that option.  I'm really happy with how they look.  Since the vanes in the rotor are directional, I had to install the vents facing forward, per the manufacturer's instructions.  I think they look weird and backwards, but oh well.

 

 

[Gordo 0]

 

What diameter are those (in other words, do you have lady hands, or NBA hands) ?

[BoristheCat 0]

Lol they're 345mm I think? So just under 14 inches. My hands are remarkably average size

[BoristheCat 0]

More progress in the painting department.  AcidTrip was nice enough to sell me a spare hood he had. I grew tired of all the failed hammering and shaping on my stock hood.

 

I removed all my doors and scuffed the insides in preparation for paint.  I laid the door skins on top of the doors to make sure I had prepped everywhere that would be visible.

 

At first, I masked the doors off with the glass still in.  I was worried that I would still end up getting overspray on the glass, so I used a spare car battery and spare wire to throw power to the door windows, allowing me to unbolt the glass and remove it.  Because I'm painting both sides of the doors, I need to hang them from something by the window frames, so the glass had to come out anyway.

 

On the outside of the doors, I decided to remove the chip guard because there was so much orange peel.  Once paint is done, I think I'll have the 3M clear paint film installed over it.  I'll still have protection on the lower parts of the car, just without all the ugly orange peel.

 

It's official, I bought all my materials and the paint process has begun.  Originally I wanted the color off of the Toyota Century, 8J9, but only PPG could match it for $1000 a gallon, so I went with something similar, but darker, for around $400 a gallon.  It's a very solid color with almost no pearl or metallic, which is what I want.  It is very dark blue, almost black. I want it to stay darker in the sun, plus I believe a solid color will be easier to paint for someone with limited experience like myself.

 

Prepped all the miscellaneous parts off the car.

 

Panel prepping everything off the car since my space in the garage is limited.  The whole painting process is really messy, so I'm trying to prevent fucking up my landlord's garage lol.

 

No wonder a good paint job costs $10k or more.  The amount of labor involved is absolutely ridiculous.

[WhoreMouth_Jr 0]

Damn you and Josh about to be flossin.  Lookin good man

[BoristheCat 0]

Thanks man. I fucking hate autobody and paint work. Even if this paint turns out amazing, I don't ever want to do it again. It's just too much damn work

[battleaxe 0]

whatever booth you make without a roof, will just go around what you do have up. if you can make a poly roof, do it. get good air flow in there too. hope you got enough paint there. take your time. only part you can fuck up is the clear. too light and its hazy and lumpy. too heavy and it will run big time. you watch any youtube paint videos? i find them helpful. i watch motivated painters, the gunman, and bode vision. all very different ways to do that same thing. good luck

[BoristheCat 0]

In the pic I have a half assed wall or two set up. Now, I have the whole booth assembled. Has four walls and a roof, plus I have a fan out for negative pressure to hopefully suck out as much overspray as possible. 

I'm also going to wet the garage floor to keep the dust down. Now I'm just waiting for a good 70-80 degree day to shoot all my panels. Hopefully that day is this coming Saturday, but we'll see

[battleaxe 0]

Wetting the floor has pros and cons. Can keep dust down, but also introduces humidity as well as the air hose will drag around and get dirty, wet and muddy. I'd personally do a good clean down before spraying. Broom, blow out, water out and squeegy or yolo it.

[BoristheCat 0]

Good tips, i appreciate it man. Trying to soak up as much info as I can before I squeeze the trigger. 

Currently it's a little cramped in the booth. I caught myself bumping into my doors one or twice while spraying high build, but luckily there weren't any marks where my fat ass bumped the door edges lol.

I'll make sure I arrange everything properly so I can get around easily without bumping into stuff

[battleaxe 0]

High build should only be used to make a panel straight by blocking. For the inners I would just use a sealer as it is thin and does not need to be sanded after (if wet on wet) and makes the painting party easier.  Any reason why you didn't just paint the entire inners if you went through the trouble of fully disassembling the whole door?