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BoristheCat

Sleeper MX83 build

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Can't help it lol. The wheels were bought after my Russian frp fiasco. 

In other news, I got the Lexus running today after the full teardown and rebuild. Now I can focus on the cressida again

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ye @LUMBERZACK is right. i have s9 front fenders. i like them. they look cool. but i can fit the same wheel and tire as i could before with stock rolled n pulled metal.

i think the ideal way to go for more width upfront would be stock metal with like those nice custom ls400 metal flares you weld on and mold to look real nice.

 

something similiar to these ulterior motives flares: https://www.umshop-store.com/product/ls400-rear

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Hm, first steel flares I've seen that actually have a 3D formed outer lip & mount surface.
Everything I've seen lately has just been flat steel sheet cut in a crescent, that the installer would have to do all the forming.

Will take someone experienced with welding sheet metal, as it will want to pull as the weld cools.

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Alright, things have happened.

Imported GX81 Mark II fenders.  Put them on to look at the differences between the X83 fenders.

I remember looking at a thread Brian posted in a long time ago explaining how he molded the front of his fenders to fit his chaser corner lights.  I plan on doing something similar. I'm gonna chop the front of the Mark II fenders and weld the corner light section onto the back two thirds of my USDM cressida fenders.

As you can tell in the pics below, the rear portion of the Mark II fenders don't fit at all. The corner is way off, the body line is way off, and the door hits the edge of the fender.

 

CVtc762l.jpg

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Another thing I didn't anticipate is the Mark II fenders and hood are taller than the X83 hood and fenders. If I use the rear portion of the USDM fenders and the Mark II hood that I'm eventually going to get, from either the russian con-man or the one I'll import, the hood will be taller where it meets the windshield. The body lines aren't gonna work period I don't think.

You can't tell very easily in this pic, but there is a height difference in the rear of the hood.

uJgfvpVl.jpg

 

I'm thinking my chopping will go something like this:

1sDO2NQl.jpg

 

However I do it, it's a pain in the ass. I'm scared to chop shit up after spending too much money importing these damn things.  Such is life.

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I smashed mine with a hammer near the door and clearanced it for the door.  But I put the whole front clip on.  I planned to do the 1/4 cut of the fenders and never got around to it.  I just drove it instead.  In hindsight I'd never do it again.  But then that was 10 years ago and JDMTyte was the thing.  Now I'd just buy a JZX81.  All I ever really wanted was the fender indicators and the projector foglights from the Mark II hard top.  Now a days I like the other front ends more.

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Did you like the look of it, or did it end up looking like ass? I would assume the differing body lines probably made it look weird

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i have his old front end JzxGibbs

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Finally another update.  Sold my motorcycle and got almost my asking price.  Immediately started flushing more money into this car.

 

I continued to do stupid shit by pulling the everloving shit out of the driver's side fender before I even obtained tires. Put a few nice creases in the arches... luckily I didn't feel too bad about it, since the corner light area was damaged from when I first bought the thing.  Bought an intact used replacement fender from a local lurker on here.

 

Anyhow, here's the fronts with 245/35/18.  It has the perfect amount of tire stretch in my opinion.  From lock to lock, it clears the frame rails by about a centimeter, which is enough.  Also just clears the coilovers by about half an inch.  I raised the car up slightly, but will likely drop it back down later.

 

IsEcRc4l.jpg

 

In worse news, I discovered that my passenger side coilover was welded ever so slightly crooked, so my passenger side wheel hits the coil.  The guy who welded them is an extremely experienced car guy and fabricator.  It's a simple mistake that I don't blame him for.  Fortunately I have a spare spindle that I can prep for him.  Unfortunately, I can only buy the weld on strut tubes from stance in a pair, which they are out of stock of course.

 

Put the wheels with the tires on them in the back to check clearance to determine if I can get away with 275/35/18.  I think I could have gotten away with a 10.5 inch wide wheel in the rear, but just barely.  Here's the clearance of everything in the rear.  There's about half an inch between the wheel and the coilover and toe arm.

 

hSo5CyOl.jpg

3VS8Rn6l.jpg

 

That being said, the rears are flush as fuck!

 

JrvF4Mdl.jpg

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I will probably put the 275's on regardless and then make extremely minor pie cuts in the arch to pull it out another centimeter or so if necessary.  Bought a spot weld drilling kit to separate the inner fender from the outer fender.

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Here's some food for thought... I don't know if this would work, but it looks appealing.  Found it on an MR2 forum. The only drawback is that it raises the wheel arch slightly if you pull the arch out.

 

SXh0yiq.jpg

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Hz0GQUy.jpg

 

It turned out really well in my opinion.  Still looks stock, but it allowed him to run wheels a whole inch wider. I'm tempted to do this in the rear.  I could probably get away with only pulling it out a centimeter and I'm thinking things will clear. 

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cutting and stitching is literally the oldest trick in the book for widening fenders. it just generally takes a lot more effort and time than basic rivet-on flairs.

its only real advantage is that it looks OEM. you're limited by the metal available on the original part. if you go too wide, you're also significantly heightening the arch of the wheel well. the above example is also a really modest job. its pretty much someone that was more comfortable with stitch welding the fenders than learning to properly roll them without damaging them. every other time i've seen this method used its been to apply a really aggressive pull rather than a modest one, and its often included flares after the fact as well.

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Interesting... I think I will end up going with the metal weld on flairs that you suggested from ulterior motive. I'm planning to paint the car anyway, so I don't mind doing more bodywork.

I did some measuring and it looks like either the LS400 or the GS300/400 rears will work, along with the LS400 fronts.

I ordered my 275's today.  They'll be here on Monday.  Then I can put all the wheels where they're supposed to be and make a bodywork plan from there

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Bought my 275/35/18 tires for the rear... and damn, they look good.

tSxS8rAl.jpg

 

They hit the fender pretty bad, so invasive surgery was needed. Got scared to make the first cuts, but once I started chopping, there was no turning back.

WqSTfcLl.jpg

 

The actual welding, grinding and pulling wasn't the hard part.  The difficult part was making the edge of the lip look straight and even.  It took a lot of welding, grinding, rinse and repeat treatment to finally get everything looking pretty even up close.

 

I got everything flowing smoothly and filled low spots with weld to get it ready for a really light skimming of bondo

LvGr0ntl.jpg

YB0EJbbl.jpg

 

We're officially tucking 18's gentlemen.

qH2e5LAl.jpg

 

The one thing I forgot about was that the toe rod is too damn long.  Xcessive acknowledged this and they now sell their rear arm kits with a shorter toe rod so you can dial out the dumb amount of negative camber.  I'm thinking of slicing barely a centimeter off of the end of each toe rod barrel to allow the wheels to be straighter as long as I have enough thread engagement.

With how it currently sits, the car is square and the lower arms can be retracted about 3/4 inch to get rid of the negative camber, but then the toe in/out is off.

 

If I had three degrees of negative camber or less, I would be happy.  There's maybe 6 to 8 degrees as it currently sits??

4Ms7AQDl.jpg

 

Either way, I'm happy as a pig in shit knowing that I have beefy tires in the rear and it doesn't look like a miata with riveted on plastic flares. Proud to say that my fenders are all metal. The wheel arches didn't even raise up that much, maybe a centimeter at most.

I'm a widebody boi now

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TFTI

My arches were more rust than metal. Miataboi gang it is. 

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Eh, can't fault you there. My condolences if you live in the rust belt. If you ever find spare rust free fenders, it's never too late to change. 

Talked to Guy at excessive and he says they will cut 5mm off both ends of the toe rod for free to correct the camber issue and that will fix it. There are enough threads to work with, so it is safe. 

I'm too much of a cheap ass to pay shipping, plus I don't want to wait. I'll likely use my friend's chop saw with a metal blade to fix them, cause that shit's free

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Same Jason. My X8 didn't seem to like having metal fenders so I gave it what it wanted. Biggest regret of that car was not keeping the stock body though.   Now I've got multiple sets of wheels/tires with fitments that I cant use on anything else

Actually biggest regret is buying the car in the first place. 

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8 hours ago, Urrik said:

Actually biggest regret is buying the car in the first place. 

The feels never stop! | Feels | Know Your Meme

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Why is it that whenever my welding gas runs out, it always happens on a long weekend right before I'm going to spend the entire weekend finishing up welding a bunch of stuff?

Central welding and Airgas are closed until Tuesday of course.

 

Did a bunch of air hammering inside the arch and gained a lot more travel. 

4lFXE9Rl.jpg

 

Completed the driver's side arch.  Blended it with bondo

kJczNpQl.jpg

 

Also cut a few millimeters off each end of the toe rods.  Now it sits nice and straight.  When the car is on the ground, it has around 2 degrees of negative camber

WXrkYWul.jpg

 

Since my metal working plans for the weekend are shot, I'm going to get as much of the car ready for paint as possible.

I get to deal with removing all the windshield trim and breaking all the little plastic Y-clip retainer things

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Learn to stick weld sheet metal.....1/16" 6013 rod.
Used to build custom bike pipes using 20ga sheet metal, until I got old, and eyes went south, and hands started shaking (and I bought a TiG)

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Gordo, I found an awesome Lincoln 110 multi-pak setup for half price, brand new. It had everything for mig, tig and stick. Pedals, wire, rods, cups, etc. The guy sold it half an hour before I could get to it. Normally 1200 bucks and the guy was selling it for 600, but I missed out. 

That's the plan though, I'll eventually get that setup after I get the cressida completed and driving, but before I do the bored out gt28 build or go big single

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A few new developments...

 

Blending the fender flares in to make it look nice and smooth is a pain in the ass.  I'm still finessing it to look correct.

In the meantime, I've been doing a ton of prep for paint.  A windshield guy came and pulled my cracked aftermarket one.  Whoever replaced the windshield before I had the car did a really shit job.  Way too much glue was used.  The trim was glued in place and when I pulled it very carefully, the glue held onto it and bent it to shit. The headliner had also been glued against the windshield.  It was a pain in the ass to very carefully separate the headliner material from the glue without tearing it.

 

I also had to strip all the glue and paint off with a wire wheel to eliminate some of the rust that was starting to appear under the windshield.

BcqLB7Cl.jpg

 

 

The car has been almost entirely stripped and prepped for paint.  Scotchbrited all the random crevasses.  Removed every last piece of molding and trim.  Also removed all the stuff in the door jambs to backmask the jams and paint them with the doors off.

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Z2u45mVl.jpg

 

 

Major news though... finally bought my twin plate

f8X62Tzl.jpg

 

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I am impressed.

Was thinking I was going to see some chinese dual plate, and after reading NAC's latest post, I am in ass chewing mode.

Good to see someone with class still exists on the HMS Titanic.

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I can't even tell you how many people I've talked to that are upset that I've chosen such an expensive clutch. 

I tell them "ok, let me get a shitty 4 or 6 puck. I'm really looking forward to the harsh engagement, inevitable crank walk, doubled pedal effort and poor quality a cheap single will provide for this car."

Then they're like... oh.

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When I first put one in my Datsun, it was a bit of a pain because of it being like an on/off switch.
But as soon as I put a coaxial hydraulic throw out in it, all those issues went away.

You may consider doing that, and shit canning the external slave/arm set up.

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I'm not doing an external arm setup. The adapter plate from Collins came machined for a tilton hydraulic internal slave setup.

 

Colin is an irritating dude. If you ask him anything, he assumes you're trying to steal his ideas, gets defensive and acts like a dick. I asked him what the spacing was on their crossmember in order to see if it would fit my car and he got all defensive and said I had to buy his crossmember and then see if it would fit. He got all pissy about me asking for the eye to eye measurement. I told him fine, even if it would end up fitting, I'll never buy it because you're not going to work with me to tell me the measurement. 

For his twin, triple and quad setups, the tilton hydraulic is used. He won't tell me which bearing is used, so fuck him. I'll post in this thread which bearing ends up working. 

This shit isn't even hard to decode. He thinks his customers are stupid. It's as easy as measuring the eye to eye on the adapter plate, then looking at the bolt patterns and measurements of the tilton bearings on Tilton's website.

I'm 99 percent sure which bearing is going to fit, but I'll post once I know for sure

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