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Sleeper MX83 build

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A major turning point occurred here. I had been with my ex-girlfriend for two years at this point. We ended up breaking things off. I had a nice weekend trip booked for both of us, but things between us came to an end. Fortunately, I was able to get my hotel reservations back, so I did this with some of said money instead of being a sad sack:







so close... The motor bent my tailgate open. Oh well, nothing a crowbar can't fix.



De-greasing and cleaning the bay











What's all this?






Comparing Aristo auto trans bellhousing and CD009 bellhousing that I chopped off






Collins A340 adapter. I plan on going with an OS Giken twin with the Driftmotion TB setup.






Serialnine short shifter relocation kit. The shifts are absurdly short.






Opened up the motor and there's definitely some leaking going on












Out with the old






In with the new






Ditched the old fuel pump






Replaced with the MKIV OEM denso unit






Rebuilt the VVT-i cam gear with new rubber and painted it the same color I painted my calipers






PHR lightweight pulleys, for some swag. Took off a solid two pounds of rotating mass. This will probably be negligible and I doubt my butt dyno will be able to tell, but hey, swag.






PHR billet tensioner bracket thing. I'd rather get most of this crap out of the way before I go big single down the road.






Yanked the extra gear in the throttle body






Threw in the DBW delete





Also ported the oil pump to prevent cavitation. Checked the clearances and everything in the pump is in spec. In looking at the oil pan/sump, everything looks good. No noticeable deposits or anything questionable.


I have a lot more stuff ready to go on the motor/car in storage, which I will post as it gets installed.

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Also ported the oil pump to prevent cavitation.


Need pictures

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What did that Drift Motion beer can tab cost ?

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..So, what's your plan for keeping the car at idle?



Manually adjust the throttle with the throttle stop screw


I wish you well on the install of that trans.



Thanks, I'm going to need it. Even with the Serialnine shifter rod placed as far forward as possible, it's still about two to three inches too far back from where an R154 would be. I don't mind banging on the tunnel here and there if necessary, but I really don't like the idea of chopping up my center console area. I could slide the motor as far forward as possible on the mounts, which I don't want to do, or I could have a buddy write up a CAD file to make a longer shifter bracket.




I'll cross that bridge once it's in the car.


What did that Drift Motion beer can tab cost ?


Like 20 bucks... fitment was fine and operation is smooth so far. Definitely cheaper than the old method of getting an entirely new throttle body from a Q45 or whatever it is people fuck with

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$20 would have bought you a pair of tin snips to make your own.....

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Believe me, it's not a matter of banging on the tunnel here and there. You'll find out soon enough.


Interesting... measuring everything is telling me that things will be tight, but it should work fairly close. I know my gearing will be fucked, but I believe the lowest I can go with my rear end is 3.5 with a new ring and pinion. The MKIII diff I have in there now is geared at 3.9 I believe, which should make it a stump puller with a useless first gear.


The only hint I would like from you... Did you get the CD009 in your car, or did you get sick of fitment issues and give up?

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Go look through his fucking thread fucktard.

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As requested...



Stock condition. Poopy looking radiuses. Ugly casting flash.








After porting:



I'm still not that happy with the finishing I got on this channel. It's at a funky angle that I can't really get to that well with a bit.






The other areas I'm happier with though:









I still might fart with it a little more to get it polished up. It's just difficult to get in there at certain angles.

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Go back to dremel school.....

I did better when I was 14, when I ported my first McCulloch kart engine using a 3/8" drill.


But at least you are trying......


Take lighter cuts, with finer cutters, or sanding bobs.

Don't use any type stone on aluminum.


Look through McMaster-Carr to see all the different styles of cutters available.


I have like close to 50 rotary files, some I made myself, just to get into an tough to reach area, like porting the oil galleries in a 7M block.

Only god knows how many abrasive set ups I have.


Again, take lighter cuts, work at taking as little metal off as you can, and keep checking contour with your finger.

A lot of times, less rpm on the cutter is the way to go.

No matter if I'm using electric, or pneumatic grinders, I normally only use a lot of rpm for final polish.

If I'm working on smoothing out a transition in a passage, using a ball shaped cutter, the RPM is kept very low, like barely turning.


And I will have my shopvac sucking at the other end of what ever I'm working on. Keeps the work area clean, so I can see what is going on.

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Worked at a low RPM with the ball shaped cutter. Kept finger checking. I ported a head with a buddy earlier this year and using a sanding bob worked really well to get closer to a smooth finish. The issue is not being able to access that passage in my first pic. I can't remove the plate in the side of the pump to get a nice angle and contact surface.


Like I said, I'm not happy with it, so I'm not going to leave it. I'll keep OCD'ing over it until it's smooth.


You can see the entrance and exit ports in the last pic and those are actually pretty damn smooth, but that was easy because I could get the bits perpindicular to the surface with no difficulty.


Some of those flexible shank burrs on the McMaster-Carr site look pretty sweet, I'm just wondering how flexible or effective they truly are though.

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Crap, that's something new...

Wonder if they have something like that to use with abrasive flap wheels.

Something real long to get into a header with, to clean up welds.

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Now I'm happy.


Started with 120 grit flapwheel.


Went to 180 polishing buffer, then 260, then 320.


Followed up with black emery rouge buffing compound, then white polishing compound.












Thanks Grandpa Gordo :)


Inspected and cleaned the VVT-i solenoid. Cleaned the screen.






I started farting with electrical a while ago. I've already deleted everything from the stock harness that I don't need. I will be building a new harness from scratch.


Pinned everything into my B3 from the stock harness.



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Yeah I got that fucker in, wasn't easy. You can find my thread but the long and short of it is that the bearing plate is so fucking big I had to cut and raise the entire rear section of the tunnel to get the trans above the frame rails, had to cut out most of the center console to clear the mondo tunnel and ruined the interior of my car. So yeah Rue pretty much hit the nail on the head.


To my credit as far as I know I was the first to do this in a street driven x8, but I'm a hack and others have since done it better.


As far as gearing I actually wasn't displeased with the results, though I wanted to go to a taller rear gear for cruising.


Edit: Forgot PhotoCucket decided to extort their users and my thread is somehow more useless than it already was before without photos, so here's a taste of what you're up against:


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Now I'm happy.



Looks MUCH better !

Good job.

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Damn, that is some serious chopping... you are rocking that botched abortion shifter though, which doesn't make it any easier.


This pic of yours is what scares me





The A340 bellhousing that I have tucks in really well, but yeah, as your pic shows the rear end of the CD009 is just wide as fuck...


I don't doubt that it's going to be a challenge to squeeze it in there. I took some measurements yesterday and the shifter should line up pretty well.


It's just the widening of the tunnel that I'm afraid of.


Thanks Zach

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Damn, and I thought the R154 needed quite a bit of massaging. That looks like hell.

I wonder how much work it is to fit a t56 magnum. I'd really like to go that route.

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