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BoristheCat

Sleeper MX83 build

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Ohh good one, dude.

Ten years later, my car runs just fine... not sure I could say the same for your "build."

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Gordo, I'm curious about that drill bit boris posted. If it's high molybdenum then it must be an alloy steel, and from what I know they aren't good tool steels. I'm no machinist but I'd assume that the obvious choice would be a HSS bit and that their description of this bit being great for cutting hard steel is bs. Would you ever use an alloy steel bit like that over a high speed steel one?

 

edit: obviously it’s an alloy, more specifically assuming that means it’s one with little to no carbon content.

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Most cutting tools are an alloy of some sort, and have some carbon.
The issue was chipping of the tool, and that most likely was due to very little contact surface (bit going into a hole almost as large as the bit it self), combined with too much rake (angle of leading edge).

If that was the only 14mm/9/16" bit I had, I would have ground the front of the cutting edge to nearly zero degrees, and tried it again.
But drilling anything that is tough, like a spindle is always difficult using a hand drill.

Lack of pressure, or any side to side movement will kill bits.

I probably would have not bought that first bit. Reputable cutting tool suppliers give actual alloy percentages, they just don't throw out a name like molybdenum.

Any of you guys should request a catalogue from MSC, there is a world of info to be had.
Just throw it in you, and spend a few minutes looking through it on a regular basis.
And if you can afford it, buy a copy of 'The New American Machinists Handbook'.

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Boris, I have seen the 6-piston CTS-V kit on another Cressida, but I didn't ask much about installation. All I can say is that it has been done before; you should be fine.

What kind of tool were you using to clearance your strut tower? A nice body hammer would've done the job nicely and not left you a hole. Luckily you're still shaving the bay.

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Gordo, I need to learn more machining skills since mine are lacking, I'll look into getting that handbook.

Zach, I did use multiple body hammers.  The metal had a long way to stretch, which is why I think it tore.  I'll weld a patch in from the back.

I lied Gordo.  Didn't buy the bit you recommended, so I bought a cobalt bit, which actually did pretty well. It broke right as I finished drilling the last hole.

 

 

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Got the brackets fit.

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The size difference is ridiculous.  The CTS-v calipers are lighter than the Z32 irons, even fully loaded.

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I am already sure that these brakes won't be able to be used to anywhere near their full potential.  I'm probably going to put 225 tires in the front, which I'm sure will lose traction before I'll be able to put the pedal down hard.

Oh well. At least it looks cool, which is all that's important, right?

 

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Who uses iron Z32 calipers ?
Never mind......

Too much front brake?  Put a damn adjustable brake bias valve on it.
That way, you can let your larger rear brakes take some of the load.
Wait, you did upgrade the rears, right ?

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Sure did Gordo.  I have aluminum Z32 rear brakes already installed. 

Already plumbed in a Tilton portioning valve tucked under the booster and will dial it in after the car is running.

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I am amazed, but shouldn't be...
You seem to be doing decent work, well except for the cutting tool destruction...

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Not afraid to admit that my fab skills are seriously lacking.

Gordo, I bought that machinists book that you recommended. Hopefully my neanderthal skills will get better after I read through some of it.

 

I cut out a bunch of cancerous rust from the bumper and patched it up.  My welding skills are slowly getting better though, which I'm happy about

GUSVawC.jpg

 

I also fit the second front brake.  I just need rotors front and rear and then my brake system will be done

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6-piston brakes look badass, but yeah, if you're going to run 225s, super pointless. I have the z32's and I can lock them up on demand, so I know anything bigger would be for looks. Unless brake fade during circuit racing is a concern. Nonetheless, nice work!

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I feel like this project has been going one step forward and two steps back lately.

 

Some good things happened, I finished sealing up the motor with a new rear main seal and FIPGing the remaining stuff on the bottom end.

Also installed the Collins pilot bearing adapter thing.

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The SG bracket to relocate the alternator that I bought bolted onto the motor just fine, but the reliefs in the bracket for the alternator were too small, so I had to hack at it a little bit.

I already bitched about it in the for sale section, so if you all want to hear me get mad and complain, you can read about it in more detail over there.

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The autobody is what's really pissing me off.  Welding this thin 20 gauge bullshit is infuriating.  I'm going slow, not running giant beads or pushing a ton of heat into it, and it's still burning through and looks like shit. 

I discovered that some of my previous welds were crap and could be pushed out rather easily. Better to fix it now than have shit crack after painting it.

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Wake me from this fucking autobody nightmare u guys :(

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On ‎6‎/‎14‎/‎2019 at 5:27 PM, LUMBERZACK said:

6-piston brakes look badass, but yeah, if you're going to run 225s, super pointless.

Run better tires....

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Shame about that bracket.  It's a nice looking part.  
Also haha my brakes finally working and even I have more brakes than I have tires now and I'm only on z32 all around

 

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Run better tires.....

Do you not understand grip levels between Pep Boy specials, and say, something like an R888 ?

How about playing with brake bias ?
Or do I have to explain that one also?

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im with gordo. tires make a MASSIVE difference. the 100 tread wears, the 200s and then the 320 and above. I'm a big fan of the star specs from dunlop because of their sizing, quality, price and availability.  theres a good market for the every day 200 tread wear tire but the 320s and above are there for us ppl who live in areas with 4 seasons and see rain.  an NT01 from nitto and other 100 tread wears are more often than not made for a track only day instead of a day to day due to wear...but it will be a fantastic year or less of driving.

i do understand the idea behind a HUGE brake and "small" tires..for everyday tires anyways, but a quality every day tire isnt terribly expensive or hard to get..especially in the USA

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They say upgrading your tires is the best single mod you can do for your car for grip, braking, handling, etc.

My intention was to put a really sticky pilot sport cup or something similar on my car.

The ctsv came with 275's in the front, which was enough to stop a 4100 pound car. I'm hoping that I can fit a 235 on there and have good results.

 

This is going to be a road car, so I'll likely have a better contact patch with minimal camber than most cress owners.

Also, drift tires are usually cheap, right? So it makes sense that people are locking their brakes up easily since those tires likely have less grip

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I don't disagree, but I still stand that a 4-piston caliper will lock up a set of 225 Advan A048 making a 6-piston caliper just an aesthetic flex. Which was what this whole discussion was about.

Inb4 Gordo starts rambling about brake fade and shit..

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True true...

I still have a fair amount of pulling I can do though, I know some people have run 235's in the front. I think 245's might be possible if I hit the offset just right and pull the fender enough.

I'll deal with the fender pulling, offset and other wheel and tire nonsense later though.

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Yeah I think with the right wheel and ride height, you can get a 245 up front.If you wanna be slammed, probably not.

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Yep, this car won't be dumped. It'll still be low, but the overall wheel and tire combo will be about 25 to 50mm greater in diameter than it is now, so I'll be raising it an inch or an inch and a half higher than it is now. It's real low as it is, so I don't mind raising it up a little bit

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Shocking news everyone.  If you want a good weld, you have to clean both sides of the metal. 

After I started doing that, I went through and redid every single crappy weld that I did a few years ago. I paid dearly for not welding properly the first time.

Having a nice speedglas helmet is so much better than a piece of $30 harbor freight trash. I can actually see the bead that I'm welding. Incredible.

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Bought a few more tools for the whole operation. I don't know how I survived without an air compressor for so long, it's amazing to finally have one.

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I also bought this paint gun.  It was a pretty good value at around $250 off amazon.  Came with a 1.3, 1.5 and 1.8 tip.

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There was so much damn bondo dust in my garage...

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Used some guidecoat to see where my high and low spots were.  Once I was happy, I got everything prepped for high build primer.

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My autobody buddy sprayed the high build for me. It's much easier to look at it when it's all one color. I'm particularly happy with the cleaner looking frame rails.

He was pretty impressed at how little overspray there was and how efficient it was.

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The primer really made any imperfections more evident though. There's a few things I need to touch up with bondo and finish putty.  There were a couple places on the strut towers that I forgot to bondo, which I'll deal with momentarily. The bay won't be bathtub smooth, but it'll be damn close.

The plan is to paint within the next few weekends. 

 

I'm already really happy with how much further the bay has come.

 

Eeeeewww.

0o06wHFl.jpg

 

Much better already

nFoZ6Lw.jpg

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I also was able to make the bracket from suspicious garage work.  He was good about communicating with me and fixing the problem.  The second piece he sent me was much closer than the first, but still needed the slightest bit of hacking to make work.

Hit it with a little etch primer and then black trim paint.

OEXkdA1.jpg

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Those PHR lasered pulleys look so aggressive.

Nice job scoring an Iwata. Personally for Primer, I use a cheap $20 harbor freight HVLP gun; I just toss the gun away after since primer is annoying to clean and I don't like spraying base and primer out of the same gun. Especially with a nice Iwata you bought. Plus primer sprayed finish doesn't necessarily matter since you're going to wetsand the primer anyway. Just something to think about. Either way, looking good man! I agree it's much easier to see your progress and faults with a solid coat of primer. 

Luckily for you PNW guys, you guys don't need compressor air refrigerators. Just need a shit ton of water separators. lol. If you don't have a moisture separator at the gun, consider getting one of those disposable ones. They're like $5

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Thanks Zach, the real name for the gun I have is "Air Gunsa HZ3", but it's made by Iwata. Just thought I'd clarify that in case someone wants to buy it, but can't find it online.

Yeah, a few car guys at work do the same thing. They all have $25 primer guns that they just throw away or clean half-assedly when they're done with them. I thought about doing that, but it pains me to throw away or neglect a tool.  But yeah, cleaning that high build out of my gun sucked. It's a pain to get off.

I've never heard of a compressor air refrigerator until you mentioned it lol. My air and oil separator that I have for my compressor works really well.  I did buy the disposable moisture separator for just behind the gun, but my autobody buddy told me to get that shit out of here.  He thinks the separator at the compressor works plenty well enough. I wasn't going to argue with him, since he does it for a living.

Went through and fixed the few things on the strut towers I didn't like, and cleaned up the area on the firewall where the starter wire and engine harness come through.

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There's a few parts on the firewall that are a bit chunky, but it works.  The engine along with other things will block most of the slightly boogery stuff, so it shouldn't be visible.

 

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