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BoristheCat

Sleeper MX83 build

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Ohh good one, dude.

Ten years later, my car runs just fine... not sure I could say the same for your "build."

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Gordo, I'm curious about that drill bit boris posted. If it's high molybdenum then it must be an alloy steel, and from what I know they aren't good tool steels. I'm no machinist but I'd assume that the obvious choice would be a HSS bit and that their description of this bit being great for cutting hard steel is bs. Would you ever use an alloy steel bit like that over a high speed steel one?

 

edit: obviously it’s an alloy, more specifically assuming that means it’s one with little to no carbon content.

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Most cutting tools are an alloy of some sort, and have some carbon.
The issue was chipping of the tool, and that most likely was due to very little contact surface (bit going into a hole almost as large as the bit it self), combined with too much rake (angle of leading edge).

If that was the only 14mm/9/16" bit I had, I would have ground the front of the cutting edge to nearly zero degrees, and tried it again.
But drilling anything that is tough, like a spindle is always difficult using a hand drill.

Lack of pressure, or any side to side movement will kill bits.

I probably would have not bought that first bit. Reputable cutting tool suppliers give actual alloy percentages, they just don't throw out a name like molybdenum.

Any of you guys should request a catalogue from MSC, there is a world of info to be had.
Just throw it in you, and spend a few minutes looking through it on a regular basis.
And if you can afford it, buy a copy of 'The New American Machinists Handbook'.

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Boris, I have seen the 6-piston CTS-V kit on another Cressida, but I didn't ask much about installation. All I can say is that it has been done before; you should be fine.

What kind of tool were you using to clearance your strut tower? A nice body hammer would've done the job nicely and not left you a hole. Luckily you're still shaving the bay.

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Gordo, I need to learn more machining skills since mine are lacking, I'll look into getting that handbook.

Zach, I did use multiple body hammers.  The metal had a long way to stretch, which is why I think it tore.  I'll weld a patch in from the back.

I lied Gordo.  Didn't buy the bit you recommended, so I bought a cobalt bit, which actually did pretty well. It broke right as I finished drilling the last hole.

 

 

MiL1mxf.jpg

 

Got the brackets fit.

vcIkIi9.jpg

 

 

The size difference is ridiculous.  The CTS-v calipers are lighter than the Z32 irons, even fully loaded.

W5Rub5M.jpg

 

jRYaelV.jpg

 

I am already sure that these brakes won't be able to be used to anywhere near their full potential.  I'm probably going to put 225 tires in the front, which I'm sure will lose traction before I'll be able to put the pedal down hard.

Oh well. At least it looks cool, which is all that's important, right?

 

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Who uses iron Z32 calipers ?
Never mind......

Too much front brake?  Put a damn adjustable brake bias valve on it.
That way, you can let your larger rear brakes take some of the load.
Wait, you did upgrade the rears, right ?

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Sure did Gordo.  I have aluminum Z32 rear brakes already installed. 

Already plumbed in a Tilton portioning valve tucked under the booster and will dial it in after the car is running.

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I am amazed, but shouldn't be...
You seem to be doing decent work, well except for the cutting tool destruction...

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Not afraid to admit that my fab skills are seriously lacking.

Gordo, I bought that machinists book that you recommended. Hopefully my neanderthal skills will get better after I read through some of it.

 

I cut out a bunch of cancerous rust from the bumper and patched it up.  My welding skills are slowly getting better though, which I'm happy about

GUSVawC.jpg

 

I also fit the second front brake.  I just need rotors front and rear and then my brake system will be done

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6-piston brakes look badass, but yeah, if you're going to run 225s, super pointless. I have the z32's and I can lock them up on demand, so I know anything bigger would be for looks. Unless brake fade during circuit racing is a concern. Nonetheless, nice work!

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I feel like this project has been going one step forward and two steps back lately.

 

Some good things happened, I finished sealing up the motor with a new rear main seal and FIPGing the remaining stuff on the bottom end.

Also installed the Collins pilot bearing adapter thing.

s3v7075.jpg

 

The SG bracket to relocate the alternator that I bought bolted onto the motor just fine, but the reliefs in the bracket for the alternator were too small, so I had to hack at it a little bit.

I already bitched about it in the for sale section, so if you all want to hear me get mad and complain, you can read about it in more detail over there.

i16iULA.jpg

 

The autobody is what's really pissing me off.  Welding this thin 20 gauge bullshit is infuriating.  I'm going slow, not running giant beads or pushing a ton of heat into it, and it's still burning through and looks like shit. 

I discovered that some of my previous welds were crap and could be pushed out rather easily. Better to fix it now than have shit crack after painting it.

1vACqa7.jpg

 

xEwyi61.jpg

 

Wake me from this fucking autobody nightmare u guys :(

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On ‎6‎/‎14‎/‎2019 at 5:27 PM, LUMBERZACK said:

6-piston brakes look badass, but yeah, if you're going to run 225s, super pointless.

Run better tires....

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Shame about that bracket.  It's a nice looking part.  
Also haha my brakes finally working and even I have more brakes than I have tires now and I'm only on z32 all around

 

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Run better tires.....

Do you not understand grip levels between Pep Boy specials, and say, something like an R888 ?

How about playing with brake bias ?
Or do I have to explain that one also?

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im with gordo. tires make a MASSIVE difference. the 100 tread wears, the 200s and then the 320 and above. I'm a big fan of the star specs from dunlop because of their sizing, quality, price and availability.  theres a good market for the every day 200 tread wear tire but the 320s and above are there for us ppl who live in areas with 4 seasons and see rain.  an NT01 from nitto and other 100 tread wears are more often than not made for a track only day instead of a day to day due to wear...but it will be a fantastic year or less of driving.

i do understand the idea behind a HUGE brake and "small" tires..for everyday tires anyways, but a quality every day tire isnt terribly expensive or hard to get..especially in the USA

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They say upgrading your tires is the best single mod you can do for your car for grip, braking, handling, etc.

My intention was to put a really sticky pilot sport cup or something similar on my car.

The ctsv came with 275's in the front, which was enough to stop a 4100 pound car. I'm hoping that I can fit a 235 on there and have good results.

 

This is going to be a road car, so I'll likely have a better contact patch with minimal camber than most cress owners.

Also, drift tires are usually cheap, right? So it makes sense that people are locking their brakes up easily since those tires likely have less grip

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I don't disagree, but I still stand that a 4-piston caliper will lock up a set of 225 Advan A048 making a 6-piston caliper just an aesthetic flex. Which was what this whole discussion was about.

Inb4 Gordo starts rambling about brake fade and shit..

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True true...

I still have a fair amount of pulling I can do though, I know some people have run 235's in the front. I think 245's might be possible if I hit the offset just right and pull the fender enough.

I'll deal with the fender pulling, offset and other wheel and tire nonsense later though.

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Yeah I think with the right wheel and ride height, you can get a 245 up front.If you wanna be slammed, probably not.

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Yep, this car won't be dumped. It'll still be low, but the overall wheel and tire combo will be about 25 to 50mm greater in diameter than it is now, so I'll be raising it an inch or an inch and a half higher than it is now. It's real low as it is, so I don't mind raising it up a little bit

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