Jump to content
BoristheCat

Sleeper MX83 build

Recommended Posts

I looked into that.  I would have to get completely different upper and lower B pillar trim.  I can't find it on YAJ, Craigslist or ebay, so this will have to work. I also don't think any JDM spec x chassis had the same color code and fuzzy faux-suede finish that my car has.

Got the seats in the mail today though. Now I understand why these seats are so popular.  They look fantastic, are comfortable and are pretty damn light.

7HHwU5Nl.jpg

 

One item from my RHDJapan purchase is on backorder.  I won't get the seat rails or steering wheel hub stuff until the beginning of April, but I don't mind.  There's plenty of stuff to do in the meantime.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just don't want to hear any fucking thing that even sounds like 'harness bar'.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You won't, don't worry. This is a street car, so no race harnesses will be put in that car. I saw a video of a guy that died Dale Earnhardt style because he had a race harness, no airbag and no neck brace.

Race harnesses don't stretch on impact like street seatbelts do, so your body stops and your head keeps going.

Keeping the stock seatbelts for sure

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Test fit the seats.  I'm really happy with them.  The rails work great.

 

p0atvXtl.jpg

6Qowg7Hl.jpg

 

 

 

I'm not liking how tall the WB hub is.  Even though they call it a short hub, it's still really far away from my signal stocks. I have to take my hand off the steering wheel and reach back half a foot practically to get to them. A friend gave me an old Toyota wheel that I chopped up to get the center spline section out of. I had a spare WB hub laying around from when I bought my Tom's wheel that I chopped up to get the hub face off of.

Now it's off to the machine shop to get it turned on a lathe.  My friend said he would weld it once it came back, and then I'll be in business.

It looks like hackery for the time being, but it will be fine once I get the machine work done.

 

dH8CuK6l.jpg

5MTwkCLl.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How short are you? i installed my seat and the shit hit the door pillar.. i'm either too close or too far.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm 5'9. Are you referring to the side bolsters? They have loads of clearance on both sides, nothing hits or rubs. I used Bride RO rails and they fit great.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Which WB hub boss did you get? I got 522 which is only 45mm long. It took about a day to get used to the extra 1" of distance away from the turn signals, but it's second nature now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the JZX81 specific hub.  It says it was 63mm, but it definitely looks shorter than the one you're using.

Either way, I'm building a road car and I'm really anal about dumb shit like this. 

If my car was a track build only, I wouldn't even care.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Car looking good, we really need a fish tank subtopic somewhere now haha

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Worked on the car this weekend.  Nothing too major has occurred.

Turned the motor over and got it running. Everything functions properly since I cut the wire harness at the firewall and installed the milspec connectors.

 

There are a few problems though...

 

AFR's are going bananas.  At idle, it's around 14-15, which is good, since it's aiming for stoich.  It starts to creep up pretty quickly though, and after 20 or so seconds, it starts to go above 16, so I shut the car off. When I rev up the motor, the AFR's barely drop at all.

It's running lean and I'm not sure why.

Boost is also kind of odd.  It's running at vacuum at idle, which is good.  When I rev it, boost increases to around 14 or so, but settles at a different place once I back off the throttle to idle.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You don't need 14-15 at idle, or no load.

Go put an AF meter on a dead stock car, and watch what they do, before you go try to fix something that isn't broke.

Damn kids these days........

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not a major update, just a little bit of venting and frustration.

 

Bought the SCG Performance CTS-V 6 pot conversion kit. Waiting for it in the mail.

In preparation, I attempted to drill out the holes on the knuckle to accept the 14mm bolts, as outlined in the SCG instructions.

Bought a "nice" 22 dollar bit, only to have it shit itself and pit out within ten seconds.

Used cutting oil, a drill guide and kept it at a slow rpm.

fLK1hTN.jpg

 

Recommendations for drill bits that can handle OEM steel, anyone? All the ones I've bought in the past have sucked.

 

Other than that, I finished plumbing in my portioning valve, splitter, and master cylinder.

Used a T100 11/16 master as SCG recommended. The ports are on the side of the master, which makes for a slightly more tucked look, which I'm happy about.

I tried to tuck everything as best as I could.

zqgTgT4.jpg

 

Lw2zr36.jpg

 

I also sleeved the hardline with the same black fiberglass sleeving that I used for my wire harness.  Hopefully it'll keep out a little bit of heat, and it hides the ugly bright bronze coloring of the line.

Everyone's gonna make a giant stink about the gaping hole in my strut tower to clear the banjo bolt.  Kindly fuck off. I'll reinforce it later.

That's all for now

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Who made that bit ?
What country was it made in ?
Where did you buy it ?

By the looks of the flutes, it almost lo0oks like a wood bit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

https://www.amazon.com/Drill-Hog-Silver-Deming-HI-Molybdenum/dp/B074D4GNJT/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=9%2F16+drill+bit&qid=1559149207&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

 

 

Drill Hog is proud to release the newest technology in drill bits. These bits are made from Molybdenum which has a melting point of 4753 degrees Fahrenheit!

These bits will drill through the toughest steel like truck frames, stainless steel, farm implements, spring steel, grade 8 bolts, and more!

(The lie detector determined that was a lie)

Drill Hog includes a lifetime warranty to the original purchaser.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I was looking into buy a generator recently I found that doing warranty claims on items bought through amazon might not always work out.  As for many items (specifically the generators I was looking at, or maybe this all happened when I was looking at the Milwakee M tools)  Amazon is the original purchaser and they resold the items to you, so now I'm always skeptical of buying stuff that I might go need service via Amazon.

 

I've never been happy with the brakes on my car maybe it's time I revisit them as well =(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I really doubt the drill is to blame... given the rest of the build as evidence.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, I doubt it was the drill also.

So you are attempting to drill into  'oem steel' (LoL, never heard that one before, to describe a metal alloy, LoLoL),
into your 'knuckle' (?)  (do you mean spindle, where the calipers bolt to?  - More LoLoL),
which is hardened, high carbon, forged steel, not home depot angle iron.

You better go find a 9/16" core drill. Meant to drill into rough castings, and will take a lot of abuse.
Something like this: Core Drill, and that will still be difficult.

Love these fly by night after market con-artists who sell poorly designed shit, where they expect the buyers to finish their job.
Kind of like someone selling a hunk of titanium for a do-it-yourself jet engine turbine blade, with instructions that tell you it will fit,
all you need to do is heat it to 1500 degrees, and forge it into shape.

Post pictures of how bad you fucked up the stock hole, I like to see carnage....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Aw fuk.

Haven't you heard of that grade of steel? From softest to hardest:

 

Chinesium

Harbor freight specialty tools

OEM Steel

Grandma's christmas peanut brittle

 

I already know I'm really putting myself out on a limb here. I haven't seen anyone with this kit before, so I feel like the guinea pig. Wheel fitment will be close.

Bought the drill bit you suggested Gordo. We'll see how it goes.

I'll be using a drill guide by the way, so hopefully it won't be hacked out garbage.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you live anywhere close to a major city, there will be a tool sharpening place somewhere, that can save that other drill.
Not sure what they charge, may not be worth it.

Chipping like that is usually caused by tool chatter, caused by not enough pressure, not enough power, or not enough rigidity.
Doesn't help to have a pre-existing hole already, as the first drill probably has a tip design for cutting into a solid material.

So if you are doing it with a hand drill, you have no rigidity, or pressure, don't care how big of arms you have, and a hand drill is very lacking in power compared to a 2hp mill motor with a really low gear reduction.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now

×