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BoristheCat

Sleeper MX83 build

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is this running with the china-motion DBW delete and if so any problems?

 

 

Yes. Since there isn't a idle air control valve on the JZS161, the ETCS-i manages the idle. Mechanically, the DBW delete works smoothly.

 

Electronically, it's been a pain in the ass. I'm not quite sure what's going on yet as far as idling goes.

 

It seems to idle fine, then when I rev it and let off, it seems to dip oddly low before returning again. When it returns, it runs differently then when it ran before I revved it. Something is inconsistent that I haven't figured out yet.

 

I know the ECU takes a little while to learn, and I've read that it won't really learn all the way until you've driven it for a while. However, I've reset the ETCS-i motor a few times and it doesn't seem to be cooperating.

 

I'll upload another video I took soon. When I'm revving it, it seems to have a strange miss in it. You can hear it near the end of the video.

 

I still need to hook up my AFR gauge to confirm fuel... not sure if it's just running rich or lean when I get on the gas.

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Typically, an rpm drop when the throttle is chopped is a sign of an over rich idle map, or the injectors not shutting off long enough on decal.

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Hmmm... the JZS161 is known to run kind of rich to begin with, but when I'm revving it a little bit during acceleration, it seems to miss.

 

The injectors shutting off would not explain that I don't think.

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That is correct. The DBW isn't eliminated. The wiring to the ETCS-i clutch still exists.

 

The Driftmotion piece only eliminates the 75% or so of electronic travel. Now it is 100% mechanical.

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Made my restrictor plate out of some stainless I had laying around.

 

IMXnaU6l.jpg

 

 

Here's the video of my car idling. When I rev it, it seems to settle at different places once I let go of the throttle.

 

https://youtu.be/XrNMW9UpgEQ

 

Within the last 15 seconds or so you can hear it sort of bucking (missing??) when I stay steady on the throttle.

 

Still in diagnose mode for now.

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LoL !

Restrictor plate.....

Guessing your incapable of porting your waste gate.

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I ported my oil pump relatively easily... It's just easier to make adjustments to a piece of sheet steel than to deal with the wastegate once it's in the car.

 

A ghetto way to do it for sure, but hey, it works.

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I can't speak to the other issue but I know when I disabled my iacv for a short period of time it would do what you are saying: drop low then pick back up when you let off the throttle.

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you guys and your stupid ass internet hacks. I have both dbw 2JZ and 1JZ and neither have idle problem running on the stock ecu and both have 3" exhausts. NONE of which "over boost" and need a restriction plate.

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The stock twins with their ceramic wheels shouldn't be boosted past 18 or so psi from what I've read. They can delaminate and shatter.

 

The stock aristo cats are what provide restriction to the exhaust.

 

Take them out and everyone says your shit will overboost. Just playing it safe by putting in the poverty restrictor plate. When I know how much boost I'm making, I'll hog out the plate until I get 15 pounds or so and call it good until I go big single.

 

I forgot to clean the MAF before I installed it, so I'll do that today hopefully.

 

Also going to check more thoroughly for vacuum leaks.

 

Get mad if you want at the ghetto restrictor plate engineering, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

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At least it isn't cut out of a soda can.

It actually looked pretty nice (for a fucked idea).

Maybe you should make some more, and get rich on eBay.....

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Oh shit, why make billions off restriction plates....

 

when I could make hundreds?

 

Muahhahhahhah.

 

Cleaned maf sensor. Fixed a single vacuum leak. Didn't do shit, it still has the same symptoms.

 

I wish this motor ran off obd2, but it's some wierd ass iso type that I can't get to work with Torque pro...

 

Ugh.

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It's the Japan spec data stream right? You have to enter a string into the app as well as have an adapter that works on a specific band. You can borrow the one we are using in the v8 car if you want (it's a celisor ecu so same japan spec data signal)

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Yes. I have the Japan spec data stream. I found that same article with the vehicle parameters. Entered the info into the my phone, but to no avail.

 

I just reterminated the wires into an OBDII plug, so I don't need an adapter. Thanks for the offer though.

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By adapter I mean bluetooth adapter that plugs into the obd2 port.
It has to be especially an elm327 v1.5 If it's newer than v1.5 it won't work, it's really picky.

 

You can also try ELMScan even the free version should be able to pick up the ECU if the adapter is compatible

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Ok cool. I found some conflicting info on both Wilbo666's site for the JZS161 wiring and the 2JZ garage article.

 

Wilbo's article says the following:

 

Plug: F60

Pin number: 11

Symbol: SIL

Definition: OBDII

ECU input or output: Output

Function: This pin is used to provide OBDII diagnostic information. Engine parameters can be monitored via the OBDII interface, which is helpful in diagnosing issues that may be present in the engine control system.

The ISO 9141-2 K-Line standard is used to provide OBDII information via serial.

 

This leads me to believe that the JZS161 runs on ISO 9141-2 K standard.

 

 

The 2JZGarage article states that it runs on ISO 14230... so which is it?

 

 

 

Well... Answered my own question after a little more googling. Looks like they're pretty much the same thing. My problem is likely that I have my connector pinned incorrectly, I'll verify my pinout soon.

 

 

MrodJbG.gif

 

ISO 9141-2

 

(Asynchronous serial communication at 10.4 Kbaud)

Pin 7: K-line bidirectional for communication

Pin 15: L-line (optional) unidirectional for waking up the ECU

Idle signal levels are high

Signals are active pull-down to 0V (0.00 to 2.40)

High signal voltage level: +12V (min/max 9.60 to 13.5)

Up to 12 message bytes, excluding frame delimiters

Bit Timing;

UART signaling at 10.4K baud, 8 data bits, no parity, 1 stop

 

 

ISO 14230 KWP2000

 

(Asynchronous serial communication up to 10.4 Kbaud)

Pin 7: K-line bidirectional for communication

Pin 15: L-line (optional) unidirectional for waking up the ECU

Idle signal levels are high

Signals are active pull-down to 0V (0.00 to 2.40)

High signal voltage level: +12V (min/max 9.60 to 13.5)

Message may contain up to 255 bytes in the data field

Bit Timing

UART signaling up to 10.4K baud, 8 data bits, no parity, 1 stop

 

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As I suspected, I was one pin off. Repinned it and Torque pro fired right up. The code chain worked great, and all of the data commands I wanted were there. I tried to log some live data, but it wouldn't work.

 

I'm a torque pro noob, so I still have some learning to do.

 

 

Unfortunately my idle is all fucked up again. I had it returning to a steady idle consistently after revving it, but now it idles like shit again. I suspect the air fuel ratio is dicked, but the lack of data logging is making it difficult to confirm this.

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I can't for the life of me get my Elm327 readers to talk to my torquepro app. I can connect to them via wifi/bluetooth and the reader gets power, but when it attempts to read the ECU, it always fails. I went through two readers before giving up.

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Huh. Yeah, I'm giving up on the data logging thing for the time being. When I go big single and standalone, I'll be able to data log as much as I want.

 

I was just reading an article about crappy idle on the VVT-i motor.

 

Apparently if you don't put coolant in it, which I haven't, the ecu pulls timing and dumps fuel to keep things cooler and prevent overheating.

 

So I'm assuming that's my main problem. The motor starts though and everything checks out, so I'll probably pull the motor soon and finish my fab work on the trans tunnel and firewall.

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Good news everyone. Turns out I forgot to adjust my TPS after I messed with the idle stop screw.

 

After backprobing the TPS wire, it read 0.48v cold with the key at the ON position.

 

It was supposed to be within 0.6 to 0.7v cold with the key at the ON position.

 

Adjusted it and it idles like a champ.

 

 

I also purchased the SCG performance rear dual caliper bracket kit. I had the kit from flipside customs, but that kit causes you to lose your stock ebrake.

 

Went with this and now I have the option of going with a hydro in the future.

 

This kit uses a SVT cobra rotor, which is about an inch closer to the hub face. Since it sits more flush to the hub, it doesn't look as funny sitting really far back like the stock X8 rotor.

 

It's also an inch larger than the stock X8 rotor.

 

I was kinda pissed though because one of the threaded holes in one of the brackets was a different pitch than the other holes, and seemed pretty unfinished with some burrs here and there. Not really professional.

 

Oh well, I'll retap it when I get around to it.

 

L9mFKf8l.jpg

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Interesting piece! Is that a 300zx rear caliper?

I alway toss up the idea of dual caliper, but I'm actually pretty happy with the x8 PMU ebrake shoes.

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Yep, 300zx rear caliper. I'm planning on getting the 6 piston cts-v fronts, but I'd need to have 18 inch wheels to clear them, which will prolong the build. I'll use the 300zx 4 pots for now

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im going with the CTSV 4 pot still collecting parts for my build. I want to run 17's on my car. what brake lines you running in the rear ?

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Let me guess....Ones that fit ?

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