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RickyFromThePark

Shit cold starts

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Hitting a wall here trying to figure this shit out. Every time the car starts cold (even if it's a warm day) It idles like ass and wants to die out until it warms up. Goes away within about a minute of feathering the throttle then runs perfect. When you touch the throttle it dies off then revs up a bit when released. Started doing this a few months ago, got worse and has stayed how it is for a bit now. So far I've checked:

 

CTS

MAF

Timing

Resistance checked Coils and plug wires

Replaced plugs with BKR6EKPB11, runs better but didn't help starting.

TPS

Vacuum leaks

 

Only fault code that isn't auto trans related is Power steering pressure sensor.

 

 

EDIT: Forgot to mention car is dumping white unburnt fuel smoke.

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mine did that till i got rid of the dbw throttle

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do the idle control valves in these things get gummed up? pretty much exactly what happened with my old DD ~4 years ago.

 

unless its totally dbw and it doesn't have iacv.

 

 

also another totally random potentially not related thing was an EGR leak on a truck I had did this. blockoff solved it.

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Look for incorrect sensor data. namely fuel modifiers like coolant and o2. You have OBD2 right? What does the realtime data say?

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'cause performance car, built cheaply.

Grow some balls, let it warm up, and drive the fucking thing.

Keep on diagnosing it yourself until you get it.

 

Or.......

Sell it, use the money as a down payment, buy a new mini van.

I hear they idle perfect when started.

 

Fuck, this place is turning into god damn StupidMania with the questions being asked.

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Checked fuel pressure, was good. All the sensor data looks good, maf, iat, cts all happy, can't tell with the o2 sensor, sits at 0V on idle and bumps up to .9V on throttle which seems right and dont care to log it with a scope, but it shouldn't be used for open loop cold idle anyways as far as I know.

 

All the electrolytic caps look good, though they shouldn't have any role in pulse widths. Anyone have pulse width specs for these? Going to check with a scope but have no basis for comparison.

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RIcky,

Your on factory management/ecu right? Sounds like an IACV issue.

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went through build thread... looks like hes using a non-dbw throttle on it.

so it needs either an idle valve or drive by wire system.

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And you once again are fucking retarded. He has a complete dbw setup. Stop trying to give out technical advise... you're only making yourself look like an ass-hat.

 

How your cooling system going?

 

I was told to tell you "you're about as useless as a bag of dicks with no handle."

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I kind of have the feeling like a bag of dicks without a handle would be very useful to him.

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I've always wondered the amount of data stream in those ecus. What's vta at key on/engine off? What's it at idling? Did it ever act fine and gradually started this? Try cleaning the actual throttle body itself if so

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Have you tested your tps according to the tsrm? Live data appeared fine on mine with safc, and throttle sweep was normal but it was out of range when I went through the tsrm guide. dust filter isn't plugged on map hose? It does sound like a vac leak though..

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After chasing my tail double checking sensor data and everything else, followed by months of not giving a shit I smartened the fuck up and found the cause of the problem. Intake advance on cold starts. Unplugged the solenoid and it cold started perfect.

 

I'll pull the ocv and inspect it later, I'm assuming it's the issue unless it's management.

 

Anyone know for sure if the stock ecu runs the ocv in open loop?

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Whats your ecu? For SC from 99 to 2000 they changed timing logic from -12 BTDC to -6BTDC (open) and from 65 ABDC and to 59 BDC (close)

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Stfu Demesio, you literally hooked your fuel lines up backwards. You're still the parts counter guy

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I need to know when it was assembled so I can confirm the parts logic lol. The USDM manual shows there was a transition period during this exact time. I was going to check some other stuff to see if the 1J was the same.

 

Shit gets changed all the time.

 

Otherwise my thoughts for now is confirm mechanical timing, actuator timing (not locked), make sure the monitors are running, and good luck!

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