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shlammed

Powered by Hate, the saga of a street car rebuild.

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I just took a dump, and wiped my ass.

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I don't understand.

 

 

You already flipped the tires and realigned the car, but you can't see that if you just swapped wheels now (AS WELL) they would be facing the right direction?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hint: Wheels must be directional I guess

 

 

edit* Since I guess it wasn't clear, my remark wasn't to combat your wear, it was to combat your directional "issue"? I guess the american idiocy is making it's way north

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Pretty sure if doesn't matter and they can be bolted on either way.

I heard you say somewhere that vvti turbos boosted too much with a big exhaust so I did this.

I also started building a fixie. The v brakes don't work very well so sometimes I have to jam my foot between the forks to stop.

Oh I saw a bird today.

They can be bolted on either way, but they still wear in the same spot. flipping them so the inside is out, though, puts the outside of the tire on the inside.

 

VVTI turbos are fine.

Im not sure why you have vbrakes on your fixie. you need caliper brakes.

What kind of bird was it?

idiocy? i dabble.

 

 

 

on a more serious note: there was nothing i could have done on JZXP that would have made them happy anyways. I ended up with a mods car and its pretty much perfect. Im changing a few things that need to be and making sure that now that its "daily" driven that nothing big comes up over the first year. I could have done more searching instead of posting right away since i dont know the quirks of these cars yet but im interested in being a part of the group. If you dont want to read a thread on bikes then dont fucking read it. I will still have questions time to time - there is a lot of knowledge here.

 

I just took a dump, and wiped my ass.

Want pictures?

what you do on your own time is up to you.

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I don't understand.

 

 

You already flipped the tires and realigned the car, but you can't see that if you just swapped wheels now (AS WELL) they would be facing the right direction?

 

 

Hint: Wheels must be directional I guess

I get what your saying now.

That would set them up in the right direction, but they would still be inside out. (V grooves pointing to the inside of the tire)

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Pretty sure the rain evac does nothing when there's like 2/32 tread left anyway.

 

He's basically just borrowing these wheels from me until he buys what he wants on the car.

 

So feel free to strafe him about getting the wheels back to me sometime.

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I'll sell you my six SSR Minerva's. You'll need 60+ mm over fenders. Or just radius cut them and be like California.

 

 

 

 

 

My recommendations: be a good sport as you usually seem to be, and don't post 'helpful' things when you're not one hundred percent on the subject. You expect the flak at the very least.

 

And bikes are cool, but only when you can achieve Mach chicken down the side of a mountain. Otherwise you're grouped in with commuter cyclists which are again the worst type of human being next to government employees and the nazis who supported hitler.

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Otherwise you're grouped in with commuter cyclists which are again the worst type of human being next to government employees and the nazis who supported hillery.

 

There, fixed.

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I'll sell you my six SSR Minerva's. You'll need 60+ mm over fenders. Or just radius cut them and be like California.

 

 

 

 

 

My recommendations: be a good sport as you usually seem to be, and don't post 'helpful' things when you're not one hundred percent on the subject. You expect the flak at the very least.

 

And bikes are cool, but only when you can achieve Mach chicken down the side of a mountain. Otherwise you're grouped in with commuter cyclists which are again the worst type of human being next to government employees and the nazis who supported hitler.

 

I expected the flak for mounting backwards. so i pointed it out. i didnt notice they were also directionally backwards.... i dont think it really matters at this point like bill mentioned.

The previous tandem i built has hit a vmax of 76km/h on gps. pretty good yet scary at the same time. That was also its first ride..

 

 

 

sorry lads, i commute by bike. Im also employed by a municipality... whatever. I feel better - literally- when i bike to work. sitting all day reading plans its the only time to move.

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Lol a gov worker, bike commuter, I bet he's gluten free too. Dicks are gluten free, suppose that's part of your diet? <3

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flip-flops with sandals

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And rainbow skin tight shorts.........

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What would make the car want to idle at 1,000-1,100rpm?

 

tried resetting the ECU and it went down to 900rpm for about 15 seconds and then started its learning process and went back to 1,050rpm. The idle was after driving it, so it was hot.

 

 

I believe that 1j's idle around 700rpm right?

 

 

It does idle well at that RPM, the AFR's are 14.3-14.7:1. The throttle body stop isn't too tight either making it idle high... its all computer based it seems.

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My 6 idles at 1600.

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Im not mad, because it works well... but I would like it to idle properly (for stock) and a little slower.

 

I should mention that it idles the same all the time. no high idle when cold. I do have the wideband, but im not sure that its hooked up to give the ecu any o2 feedback - could this be it? it idles pretty much spot on for afr's and passed emissions this way.

 

The MIL I believe is only hooked to the RED output and not the yellow in the custom cluster. Pulling codes didn't work.

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You're a fucking idiot

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Can you think of things that effect idle? Let's start a collective list:

 

ISCV, the thing that creates a vac leak to hold target idle. Carbon deposits maybe not letting it seal 100%?

 

Vac (current reading, any slight leaks? See line above)

 

Timing (set and forget system, yet vvti throws a variable. Clean screen, test solenoid per tsrm)

 

Fuel (afr confirmed good, but 100% fact is the jzx100 ecu will fuel perfectly corresponding to MAF voltage with zero o2 feedback, the shit is dead nuts precise)

 

Tps, probably not, no IDL circuit to confirm to ecu in idle state. Unplug and fire and look for change?

 

You've figured out you have a wideband. Good for you! Do you have a stock o2 sensor? Didn't bill enable narrow band feed to ecu? You could always find a pinout of your ecu and look for circuit ox1, but....Who cares?! it shouldn't matter. Maf dictates fueling, and narrow band is only there to tell if there's a consistent rich or lean problem. More of a monitoring system from what I've observed with this particular engine that I dailied in different configurations for a decent amount of time.

 

Stock BOV? Those are known to be garbage.

 

I don't know, try learning about Toyota engine management and go from there. Autoshop101 will get you there if you can read and comprehend. I had intermittent high idle, blocked of iscv, adjusted idle to 800@operating temp and reset tps to the same voltage value as previously stock at idle position, and never looked back. Wouldn't fire off the remote 9/10 under 40*F, but who cares?

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Kyle, you should start a new forum, call it 'JZX for Dumbies'.

 

I could see mutt starting threads like "Halp, my car stopped running, gas gauge reads Zero, should I replace the gauge?"

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Thanks for the response Kyle.

 

Reason I posted was that it did idle on its own lower than what its doing now after the ECU reset before correcting back.

There is no vac leaks right now.

 

I havent pulled the ISCV. Its possible that its plugged I suppose, but I would expect the car not to idle well (even high) when its not functioning? -> if it wasn't working at all and was idling proper when hot, it would be fucked when cold, no? ISCV doesn't leak boost, 0.72 bar under boost... will head out to check the boost controller gauge to see what it pulls under closed throttle.

 

Already tried TPS. doesn't change much, but when I plugged it back in, the car did idle up at 1,600 until I reset the ecu afterwards. would expect this was caused because if i had a MIL setup it would have thrown a code for this?

 

No stock o2 sensor. I haven't confirmed that the AEM WBo2 is set to narrowband output to the ecu or not.

 

 

Will try to find a copy of the vvti TSRM.

 

 

 

Thanks for the encouragement Gordo.

 

28170480243_efea6fb466_c.jpgShe loves it by HellaFab Fabrication, on Flickr

None of you care, but the car is great and gets used. A lower idle would be nice for street driving in slow traffic.

Our best day on the long weekend was a cruise to the arcade, hanging out at a buddies shop before we went to a local meet. 35C ambient, 39C "feels like" and the car was ~89c coolant temps cruising in town.

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You won't find one for 1j, but the 2jzge solenoid is the same. Fact that it idles same at any temp may be pointing you to THW circuit

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But you have good afr which is weird. THW is basically same scale across the board for 90s toyotas, so any supra/Lexus specs should be what you need.

 

And seriously, autoshop101

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I was invited out to a photoshoot for some local car meet last night. A good grip of the people are my close friends, so i went to hang out.

 

Super last minute, so i didnt even wash the car... fortunately it hasnt been raining here (until today) for the last few eeks so the car was at least a little clean. paint chips to be seen.

 

28397999513_1451abb58c_c.jpgThe Union Autofest by Emilio Ciccarelli, on Flickr

29014980885_211d31154a_h.jpgThe Union Autofest by Emilio Ciccarelli, on Flickr

28729126880_84a8398376_h.jpgThe Union Autofest by Emilio Ciccarelli, on Flickr

28729112710_96c74196b4_h.jpgThe Union Autofest by Emilio Ciccarelli, on Flickr

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