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shlammed

Powered by Hate, the saga of a street car rebuild.

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I hope the car catches fire, so we don't have to read this dribble any longer......

 

The R/Z rear calipers are identical.

I have the exact same adapters, and everything fits just fine.

30% larger holes ?

 

You know, stop assuming that you are diagnosing things correctly, and put up a few pictures.

 

No, wait, don't.....

I'm don't fucking care. I do way more than my share of hand holding over on SupraForums, and do any of the idiot newbs ever listen ?

Fuck no, they listen to some buddy who has worked on cheezy chevys all his life, and after they reach 100 posts, they start putting their 2 cents in everyone's conversation, even though their own car doesn't run.

Just burn the car, and put us out of our misery.

Better yet, someone just do it for him.

 

Let us know when this whole CAD thing happens, should be good for a laugh.

 

I'm sorry I woke up this morning now.......

I'm going back to bed.

Maybe when I wake up again, some of your writing will make sense.

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LOL, no coffee in me when I typed it.

 

 

in a I didn't really give a fuck enough to measure, say the hole for the caliper in the adapter is 1/2" but should have been 5/16" for the caliper bolt. it gives enough movement for the caliper to rub on the rotor. the rotors don't sit 100% true either, being that the hub bore is a bit larger than the Cressida bore. a tin shim was noticed in one side when I did the LCA bearing, but not the other. surprisingly this was the side with the shim.

when I held the caliper in my hand there was obvious grinding to the inside of the caliper, so its a proper diagnosis. I also took the caliper and the rotor off, put some wheel spacers on the hub face so the wheel didn't hit the coils without the rotor on and tightened it up. there was no rubbing without the brakes on. putting the rotor on after that without the caliper no grinding. To make sure if it started to grind again, I put some sharpie where the grind marks were to show if there was any new grinding inside the caliper vs whats already happened. but the drive into work this morning was pretty uneventful, so I found the issue.

 

Rear calipers being the same is good to know. hadn't cared to look, im not buying new so it doesn't matter.

 

 

I can send you the CAD file when I get it done, I know you do machine work Gordo. My files are generally ultra basic, the more detail I add the more my machine shop charges and these parts are the most basic things going.

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You have the wrong calipers.......

 

No Z32, R32 caliper has that small of bolt holding it on.

No wonder wheel choice is gone.......

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I guess I am confusing you G.

 

I know the bolt isn't that small, im saying the hole in the bracket is the wrong size by a step or two and that was describing it for you in American.

if the m10 bolt needs a 31/64" through hole, the hole in the bracket is the much more common 5/8" and it makes the caliper sloppy on the bracket. sloppy enough that it can rub the caliper on the rotor.

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Would you like fucking stop.

Go buy so mother fucking digital calipers.

5/8" ??

Impossible.......

 

And stop with the fucking fractions in a system you don't understand.

It may come to a surprise to you, but me, and most other Americans on this forum understand the metric system,

probably better than you.......

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ok, no meausrements taken so if you leave them out... here is a graphical representation of whats happening. for what its worth I am showing the 31/64" vs the 5/8" here which is the problem im having.

 

FWIW, the bracket is just a hole. the caliper has the thread. Maybe that's why you say "not possible".

 

GRAPHICAL%20REPRESENTATION_zpsimrcxorn.j

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Hope you die......

I wonder how people like you can actually make enough money to feed themselves.

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If you didn't take any measurements where did you calculate your 30% larger hole diameter from?

 

Again you are illustrating the whole new level of fucking retarded you are achieving.

 

"that was describing it for you in American"

 

Because obviously machining one-off parts for Japanese cars we've never had the need to understand the metric system.

 

Where's fucking Bill at??? Why aren't you blowing up his phone with all of your stupid shit so he will be the only one who must suffer through your bullshit.

 

Will never know what the fuck he was thinking when he said you'd do alright with the car... Fucking retards

 

Can't wait to see how your CAD drawing compares to Demesio's... but let's be honest... you'll probably one-up him in the "I don't know what the fuck I'm doing" department.

 

Fuck... just fuck...

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He has CAD technology, but with a crayon mentality..........

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I don't think he progressed past macaroni art... STOP EATING THE GLUE!!!

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Stop making Canadians look bad. You pop out of the wood work and pretend you're a mad scientist. Just stop.

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Made a trough to keep water off the valve cover since it was causing some issues and lowered the rear to match the front with a 1/4" front to rear stagger at the pinch welds.

 

I have to get some real hardware for the trough, nothing was open on the holidays that had anything that was a nice finish. just homedepot shit fasteners.

95DEA454-6D46-4393-BDC3-8B1A8E87BCBD_zps

406B55DE-78EF-46A7-B1E0-19256B6B5327_zps

D2DE1C81-5A91-4C2C-8819-EDC7A37B80EF_zps

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You bring Helen Keller back from the dead to glue that tray together or what?

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String'd the car and set the alignment. Was having tire wear issues in the front.

 

Previous front alignment was ~-6 camber, 2mm toe out per side, 4mm total.

New specs are -3 degrees, 0 toe.

 

28575405446_bf25ae64f4_c.jpgCressida alignment by HellaFab Fabrication, on Flickr

28575402886_19b3780e0a_c.jpgCressida alignment by HellaFab Fabrication, on Flickr

 

flipped tire when i had this after a few months of short commutes... when driving 50% of the time. Its a directional tire, but in my track experience directional tires dont change anything run in reverse. (Cue: Gordo)

28575403066_dbce74ef3e_c.jpgCressida alignment by HellaFab Fabrication, on Flickr

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Yeah, tire manufactures no nothing about what direction rain groves perform best at.

In fact, they must all have it wrong, right ?

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Just noticed that tire mounted inside out haha

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Seen a kid do 3 outta 4 of em that way and get fucked out of his lunch having to fix it, on top of the customer talking about him like a complete fucking idiot as if he wasn't there, although he was standing right fucking there.

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Its just to extend these tires until I figure out what I want to do with the wheel and tire combo.

 

I changed the alignment so it doesn't happen again. the tires grip the same in the driving I do with the car right now. I take the truck on rainy days because the A/C keeps the windshield from getting too foggy.

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It's almost as if you could just switch the wheels from left to right side???

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nah the wheels are probably directional too

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^ Haha!!

 

 

Side note, I have had better luck running directional tires backwards on the back of the drift car. for some reason they seem to chunk out less that way. Don't know if there is any science to that, but seemed to work for me.

 

Fronts, or normal street cars, mount your shit right ffs.

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It's almost as if you could just switch the wheels from left to right side???

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nah the wheels are probably directional too

i challenge you to swap the wheels left to right to help toe/camber wear on directional tires.

 

hint: they will still be wearing in the same spot.

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Pretty sure if doesn't matter and they can be bolted on either way.

 

I heard you say somewhere that vvti turbos boosted too much with a big exhaust so I did this.

 

5686194F-D1F0-4D9C-8A47-8B504C93A9AB_zps

 

I also started building a fixie. The v brakes don't work very well so sometimes I have to jam my foot between the forks to stop.

 

 

Oh I saw a bird today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You continually spread idiocy around this forum, let me do the same in your thread.

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