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shlammed

Powered by Hate, the saga of a street car rebuild.

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Im not convinced that it would be any different than doing it the other way around to be honest.

 

The shells on the bearings are more than thick enough to be shaved down a hair (almost literally). also the bearing was marred a bit from trying to install it where it wouldn't fit, so I chucked it up to remove the marks left from trying to press it into a hole that was a hair too small. 0.015" is very little to take off the diameter of the bearing, or 0.007" wall reduction. that's roughly 2 sheets of regular light weight computer paper.

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I know you are not convinced, that's what worries me.

Do you file down piston skirts to get them to fit in a tight bore ?

Do you sand down bearing inserts to get correct oil clearance ?

Do you cut out a chunk of tile on your floor because your table doesn't sit flat ?

 

You see, there is a right way, and many wrong ways to do anything.

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You do know that we are machinist and are perfectly aware of how much 0.007" is.

 

The question now lies in what the fuck were you thinking trying to install the bearing with 0.015" press?

 

I'm beginning to see how this will be a family project as it will take the combined intelligence of the entire family to try to get shit right.

 

Alas... you are still failing... tell me more about your shitty engine cooling ideas

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Well, I had a pair of SARD flanges from Japan, and Kyle ended up with one of them.

But it looks like the vvti, as 1 & 2, and 5 & 6 are paired up.

Non vvti have all 6 equally spaced.

 

Wait !

Don't you have a vvti ?

Why the fuck are you asking, if you have the fucking engine ?

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I don't want to take it apart to put the flange into cad to send out to the laser.

 

I have the turbo flanges ready to go but nothing for the head flange.

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Who said anything about pulling it off ?

You could have verified that print by taking a few measurements off your engine.

 

I can see where you will be playing 20 questions until you part that car out, or sell it.

What a shame.......

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I thought this car was perfectly drivable when Bill sold this thing.Why is op trying to reinvent the wheel .Just drive the fucking thing and enjoy the fact the someone else spent a lot of money,time,and headaches in the past.

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Nobody buys these fucking cars to leave good enough alone and enjoy it. Only to waste time and money until they find themselves with no money, a car that is only running sometimes and a sea of existential despair.

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Who said anything about pulling it off ?

You could have verified that print by taking a few measurements off your engine.

 

I can see where you will be playing 20 questions until you part that car out, or sell it.

What a shame.......

Let me measure the flange without taking it apart.....

 

C42994D7-B086-4E4F-A8A4-53794A9C42EC_zps

 

Oh right, you can't even see it.

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I thought this car was perfectly drivable when Bill sold this thing.Why is op trying to reinvent the wheel .Just drive the fucking thing and enjoy the fact the someone else spent a lot of money,time,and headaches in the past.

It's good as is. I appreciate the work bill put into it. I am driving it as is for now.

 

Needs new seats and wheels but being a weekend fabricator I will probably mess with it during the winter.

An efr7670 would fit this car really well. But I'm crazy.

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but being an incompetent fabricator I will probably fuck it up during the winter.

 

Fixed...

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Hahaha

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lol. probability is high.

 

 

I need to get the hard parts before I worry about it though. AEM infinity + custom harness is quite a load of cash as is the EFR turbo and ID injectors. Im not doing it any other way, so I will wait until I have the bits.

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Cars plated, good to drive without getting hassled by popopo now.

 

The car feels a lot nicer with the bearings in the uprights done. Just need to get the rear toe arm that is bent and get an alignment.

The car being a street car Im considering changing the XM 0 ackerman knuckles for stock ackerman or even totally stock units since I don't really need the extra steering angle. It feels fine for now, so I will probably just leave it alone.

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Street style 100%

11A303CD-A613-4DBF-A9DD-D57389597551_zps

 

Car had a misfire yesterday and back a few weeks ago when I was driving it on temporary plates. Was fine yesterday afternoon and this morning. will have to keep an eye on it.

 

Wideband was reading fine 10.5:1-11.5:1 when it was missing when going from cruising to boost. almost had the feeling of a boost leak being a MAF car, but everything looks fine.

Could be moisture in the ignition being that the car is parked outside and it was raining the last few days with the vented hood. Havent pulled the cover to check.

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still no more misfire.

 

Rear toe rod on its way from Gordo. Then I can do an alignment.

Still quite a bit of vibration from the rear >90km/h. going to rebuild the spare Torsen and check the 1 piece driveshaft joints and pinion angle/trans angle when I change it out.

 

 

Does the weir solid input shaft collar work on the X8 rear diff? I guess I can inquire with them. Bill mentioned I should probably reset/check the pinion on the torsen, so I will do the solid pinion spacers and go over the pinon/ring gear to clean/polish them. Made a huge difference on my Miata to have the gears polished for NVH.

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Car is making a mean grinding in the left wheel area.

 

Took a quick peek and the brakes weren't rubbing but there was a slight wheel wobble in 1 axis, so I need to do a wheel bearing before I drive it much more.

Huge grindy click noise once a rotation that you can feel through the car.

 

Originally thought it was the brakes because it feels like a warped rotor, but with the car in the air nothing is touching.

 

am I loosing my mind?

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Get the rest of the family together and look at it again...

 

"With their powers combined..."

 

Fucking retard

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Losing your mind is part of the package.

 

Not sure if this is a new noise, but likely related to the stuff I told you I heard once in a while.

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"Welcome to the cressida ring of death"

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Cressida ring of fire right now is just a smoldering pile of metal.

 

 

-problem was that the rear brake adapters are a bit too short for the Nissan calipers AND the holes for the caliper hardware are 30% bigger than required. the braking forces must have pulled the caliper in to the shortest it can with the bolt being too small for the hole and were rubbing the inside radius of the caliper on the rotor. problem #1 "fixed" when I spaced it out. long term fix im going to have to make new brackets that space the caliper out a bit more. I assume that the caliper brackets were designed for r32 calipers and I have z32. bill gave me the Japanese document for the adapter, but I haven't checked to see if it says anything obvious like that. anyways, they aren't perfect so I will be making a CAD drawing of what I need and send it out to the machine shop when I take the car off the road for winter or if the problem comes back before then.

-the looseness I saw in the wheel was the rear upper control arm. great. lol

 

 

I kind of wish it was just the wheel bearing and not these two things.

 

 

 

 

confirmed with weir that their solid spacer system works with Cressida diff, so I will be ordering one of those at some point in the next few weeks to set up the torsen and toss that in.

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Along with a set of diff carrier bearings too. Pretty sure the seals are new.

 

I bought the gold calipers from Y!JA as R32 fresh rebuilds with powder coat that were super cheap, I think I payed like $80 total shipped from Japan through WheelChoice back then.

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