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Curse of the Cressida

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lol, also true. they fit perfect pre doing this, see how it is now, as the 9.5s were perfect before the longer LCAs and how with the wider width, they do not fit as good and i expect the same with the rear. i want to align it and go drift it. its been a while since i had fun in this car. got it in yesterday as well. should be done very soon. gotta do stuff on my house with my dad this weekend.

 

modded the chassis to allow the subframe to sit flat with the new risers, slit, hammer, weld, paint re fit.

 

eager to get back to the cressida and long shot, get it tuned before xmas.

 

TnIoaHd.jpg

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almost done, stainless clutch line, adjust some toe in the front, raise the rear a little, bleed the brakes and clutch then wash it, then back to the cressida

 

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Damn! Looks bad ass.

lt6Zw6KsdQ9u_zps3am39nwv.jpg

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I wanna see one with johnny5 style flip headlights

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finished working on it today. just to align it and then drive it around to find the last few bugs i guess. doing a couple small things on the civic then putting the cressida inside and hopefully get it ready to be tuned maybe by the end of the year. then take it apart to do a lot of suspension work on it and a kaaz 2way then go and enjoy that and do a skid or two

 

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iunno if this video would work?

 

https://goo.gl/photos/gMVphoQBDGgVA91n9

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I love that Supra!!

 

I just stumbled on this in the junkyard over the weekend for my Celica:

 

 

IMG_20161113_113013979_zpsfuqwnqpd.jpg

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back to being a JZX build. going to get the supra aligned after my work xmas party on the 3rd. then drive that around a little bit and get it ready for next years drifting. had our last practice yesterday and drove some s13s and taught some kids how to skid,

 

RvholIm.jpg

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did front ARP studs and roller bearings for the old stances so hopefully the springs wont bind any more. found out my passenger wheel bearing was toast as well so i swapped that one for a used one i had kicking about.

cleaned it all up and now got to balance the AVS wheels then i can put the front down then start on the back. ARPs out back there, clearance the quarters for squats and put the kaaz 2way in and break that in, then in the new year get the car tuned. i might actually do stuff next year. holy shit

 

xmMiZpJ.jpg

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balanced the model5's, put the rear arp studs in, modified the backing plate to plop them in because i found out the bearings are fully pressed in units that require the full assembly to be removed

started taking the diff out , got the 3 main bolts to remove and it "will" plop out, then put the 2way in.

created a plan for getting the room i need inside the 1/4 and cutting a large section out and making it smooth, instead of a box. hopefully have this all done by the end of my week off, along with a variety of other little things so when the weather gets better ill bring the car over to the mainland to get tuned

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diff is out. the main stud with the hidden nut had to be cut out, the top nut was stripped...very chapped... eventually got that out and took the drain and fill plugs out, both hammered on... looks like the diff fluid has never been changed, smells real bad, now time to put the 2way in this week. got a full bearing set coming for it just in case i need it..from a toyota 8inch truck? hope it works..hope i dont have to use it as well. what a headache

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Love it, it's basically turning into the 2 door much cooler version of what I got going!

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hnlw0Zb.jpg

 

this took longer than expected. my old diff wasnt in great shape, guess its been sitting for a long time (duh, 3?yrs with me and several with the old owner) looks like water was in the diff fluid and the side bearings has a tiny bit of rusting on them, lightly scored. so like that other thread was started for, was to find replacement bearings locally and not from toyota...find out toyota more than likely owns the rights to those bearings and thus 100cdn ea for them (if i ordered through USA for 45ea, our dollar converted, shipping of 40 bucks, and duty at the border, theyd be the same price and id be out over a week, had them here this morning)..

 

grabbed the bearings this morning, parts kid was an absolute dipshit. i called at 9am to make sure they were in and that he had them in his hands. yup yup, looking at them right here, come on in. after (different) dipshit brought me wrong parts then couldnt find them, i got them. great, great start to the day.. anyways, get back to the shop, take apart the pinion, called parts shop the day before to make sure all pinion parts were in...only 1 of the 2 and no seals were in, no crush washer. called around everywhere and nothing. last call to a 4x4 shop, he told me he had some spares in a drawer in his office i could check out. i said sure man, youre my last hope. popped on over to the next town over, he finds me one a couple thou over what we needed but everything else was the same, so it would work. i asked how much i owed him, he said nothing, happy new years, hold up got some stickers for you too. sick as man, thanks a lot.

 

get back to the shop, clean and put things back together, minor hiccups but everything in looking great for specs, get to the bearing shims. put it together as is from my old parts and it was a bit too tight, 2.2nm vs 1.4nm on the high end. so we made a cup with the old bearing race and a hose clamps to hold the shim while i flat sanded it ... then i got a orbital sander and some 80 grit and spent way more time than i should have on it, and we got it down a few thou and boom, hit our target. buttoned it up and is ready for oil to be put in then broke in and dumped.

 

started on rear tubbing the other day as well and cut a lot of slits in the rear to open that pit up. flared the rear a little bit at the same time too. debating on tacking it in a bunch of spots and then seam sealing, or to clean it all, and make a new piece from spare sheet i have and fuse that on, then seam seal that.. the clearence is night and day. put the rear AVS on and jacked it up, and i got a ton of room. need to do it again with the proper sized spacers ill be running and see how it clears but currently i can tuck half the rim and still have room. only will get tight towards the 1/4.

 

5Z9N8kR.jpg

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Why can't anything ever go as planned with these fucking cars I tell you.

 

Good to see x8 progress!

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I want some of those rear strut tower reinforcement brackets.You made that shit i take it? Nice work on the diff.Looking forward to seeing this x8 out and about in the spring/summer 2017

Pics of inner rear quarter panel work and such.What did you do with your inner door jamb? delete the fucker? Thor hammer it upwards?

 

@Edit I know now that the rear strut shit is on your supra.Im drunk

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the towers in the supra were the factory double panel, cut open, i plasma cut a thick plate with a traced out top hat. then tacked that on, then got some thick sheet and welded that on. then years later cut some thick tube stuff to connect the 2. that tube cost me like under 20 bucks for 5ft, and it was about 3ft between the towers.

 

i tend to work on one car at a time and the x8 will be finished soon.

 

ill get pics of the inner fender, its quite hilarious currently. i cut a lot of it and pushed it outwards. i cut the box behind the rear door latch and saw where it was. currently its all pushed outwards. going to clean that all up and panel bond a sheet in there and seam seal it. with jacking the wheel up i have a ton of room. i think this is what G did on his yellow cressida and then flared it out a lot.

 

after hitting that fender out more, i can appreciate all the work he did, as well as how far it has to go out to mod the door as well. mine is very slight..trying not to fuck up the paint.

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not sure if this is going to make any sense from the pics, and i have no idea how to take pics of this currently.

this is in the midst. and no where near finished.

this all started because my driver side was lower and the lip of the wheel was mm away from the body and under compression/squating while accel, hard cornering, and places where you would normally bottom out, mine would get stuck. the tire itself would jam on the body and not want to move, even though i have a ton of ground clearance... so now im here... raised that driver side up and began cutting..

 

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factory im sure youre aware has a "shelf" in the wheel well. the back half is single sheet and you can see it in the trunk.

the middle is a stamped box, this stamped box, i cut some slits into and folded it up. more likely just going to cut it out.

the front is where its a bit tricky, this is where the door latch is. it has a box protecting it, which is mashed potatoes currently on mine.

inside my wheel wells i had some weird tears in the metal as well as what look like torn spot welds, where there was no spot welds?

im going to make a slit on the fender sideas it is quite work hardened and wont move by hammer any more and i need that clearance to the body.

 

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i will be making a new piece of metal from a large sheet i have. clean the metal and take out the shap bits, then panel bond the new piece on then paint and seam seal and then undercoat...i dont want to touch this again, so ill be doing my wheel fitment for the wheels i plan to run and make sure they all work. currently looks like 10j +20 is perfect for whatever camber i did and the height, i think im at -2 camber or -2.5 or something, i have my sheet somewhere. i also know that the arms have dual adjustment so i might make them as short as i can and find what i want from there so long as it doesnt bind the axles. in any case. plan for this week/weekend is put the diff back in and finish that all up and continue with the wheel wells. after those 2 tasks i got a couple odds and ends to do then its ready for a tune when the weather is better.

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this might make more sense.

purple is the end of the box

the green is where i cut, and the green zing zag is what was box and folded flat.

more cuts will be made and things straightened out. it will be gross until its mostly not.

 

fvJFc00.jpg

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Awesome info man!! Thanks for the pics.I have deleted all those humps and bumps in the rear wheel wells. I still get the odd rubbing on my passenger rear when the car squats under full load and or full acceleration and shitty bumpy roads.

Would love to gut everything on the rear and tube frame it.Maybe in another life lol.

Pipe dreamz...

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X8's have to be one of the shittiest rear wheel well design when it comes to stuffing a wheel and tire up there nice and tight.

Over engineered imo.

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iunno if this make any less sense? the box portion makes no sense for the most part. i get why toyota did it, it creates a really rigid area in the car...but behind that lol, paper

 

vQ924Uh.jpg

 

i was actually really stoked when shlammed cut his up because i could see how it was designed before even cutting anything away. so much dead space in there

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Yeah the inner fender brace is the worst part of it to get fitting well

 

Are you doing extra work in the door jam or calling it a day at that point?

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