Curse of the Cressida

[Gordo 0]

A/F ratios look OK, what are you aiming for ?

Explain 'out of boost', and 'in boost'. Do you have the SAFC tied into a map sensor?

What are your throttle points set at?

[battleaxe 0]

Looking for richer out of boost. It fully spools at 4k, starts at 3ish? In boost its great til it hits that wall. Throttle points are set from what it is when you initialise the safc. Every 600?rpm. I have to check wiring to safc to make sure it's correct. Been a long time now.

 

Should also note I didn't touch the cross over function, that lo and hi setting, where most run 10% lo and 65% hi

[WhoreMouth_Jr 0]

I'm not familiar with how safc adjusts across the board but I know for a stock ecu 14-15 was pretty stardard outside of boost. I used to hit boost cut all the time in hawaii and phoenix. Do you have your CEL hooked up, because I'm pretty sure it would trigger my CEL when it hit cut for a second or 2 and it would go away

[Gordo 0]

If under hard acceleration, but below boost, you should be around 12:1

14-ish is fine at low throttle, cruising, no boost, but that's about it.

Personally, I wouldn't go more than 11-ish A/F for that low of boost.

Richer than that is usually used up into the 2-bar range

 

I suggest sitting down with pen & paper, and recording everything, then start playing with it.

10% is awfully low for the low throttle position. I would move that up to 20-25%, and 50-ish% on the hi throttle.

 

The DSM guys have had a lot of luck by not using throttle position input tied into the TPS, but a map sensor instead,

but I have never tried that.

I may have that info saved somewhere if you're interested.

 

The thing is, if you right everything down, it's easy to get back to your starting point.

[battleaxe 0]

I just find it odd that with no correction and the 440s most ppl have to adjust fuelling and mine seemed fine. I'll be writing it down and seeing how it goes. I figure more fueling going into boost would result in being able to run more timing and spool quicker. I'll see if it's hooked to tps or map for it.

 

As I said, it was boosting to 1.5 bar si I have to see why. Could be wrong spring. They had soot on them and was hard to tell what pressure they were using tials site

 

Thanks!

[Gordo 0]

It is hard to watch the tach, road, and A/F when hard on it.

Love my Innovate data logging, all I have to do is drive.

[battleaxe 0]

i can agree to that. i need a co pilot

[battleaxe 0]

I fucked with the fueling today. Does sick skids. And rolling burnouts. Doesn't seem to be hitting g fuel cut or anything. Still spiking to 1.5bar. Feels awesome

[Kyle 0]

Iirc tial changed spring colors at some point a couple years back, but I could be thinking precision.

[ChriSOL 0]

turbosmart def did. have an older gate, had to call and get passed around until they found an oldtimer who knew.

[battleaxe 0]

when i looked online i found two different charts for spring colours for tial and i found the set that match mine. this happened a long time ago so who knows what i did. i do know it was a single spring, and it should be under 10psi because i didnt think more would be safe, and i can adjust it at the boost controller which i should do too. it does rolling burnouts so thats sick. going to get it tuned asap so i dont kill the fun times after so long.

[battleaxe 0]

What are people using for shifter boots to seal the cabin? I just have the stock booty around the transmission itself then a ae86 boot thing then my flower thing there. I drilled new holes to bolt the rubber cover on and a hose clamp around the shifter but I hate how horribly ghetto it is and wondered if there was a OEM option people have used that lines up with the factory bolt holes

[ChriSOL 0]

i have all mkiii supra boots and it's still ghetto and lets exhaust fumes in when the windows are down. draws it through the car. i'll probably end up making something better when i take it off the road to clean up all the shit accumulated over the last couple years, and i was hoping to find some sort of universal rubber boot to work better.

 

i know if you get a mkiii leather boot, you can make it sort of work with the x8 shifter trim. gordo tried to get some NOS boots for rue and i but i don't think they exist anymore.

[Gordo 0]

That was for the X7.

But part of the problem is that the piece of sheet metal spot welded to the tunnel where the shifter goes, is different between auto & manual.

Somewhere I have the part number for it, but it's a mute point, as there are none in Japan any longer.

 

I've only seen one on Yahoo-Jp, many years ago, and passed it by. If I ever find another, I will grab it, but then the odds are about the same as winning the power ball, or the next 10 newb intros here actually passing.

 

Things to explore.......

Cutting that stamping out of a DOA Mk-III, or someone with FRP capabilities, correction, good FRP capabilities, making something from scratch, that would work.

[WhoreMouth_Jr 0]

Also the problem is that the rubber that seals the shifter (around the skinniest part) is basically stuck to the shifter. It's placed under the giant lump and above the part you bolt the shifter to the trans. I have one I grabbed from the junkyard from idk what car. The holes don't line up, But last time I just drilled new ones.

I can take a picture of it tonight

[battleaxe 0]

the situation i have "works" and i dont think i get much for fumes, not like previously when the tunnel was wide open. i only have a weekend of driving it so not an everyday sort of thing.

the s13 has the shifter boot to the trans, then a thin plastic, then another condom, then a metal plate to sandwich the bunch together, then the shift boot, its always worked well, just a lot of layers, which is what i was trying to do for mine

[ChriSOL 0]

mkiii shift stuff has those layers too.

[battleaxe 0]

havent touched the cressida in a while, been working slowly on the supra. made some 20mm longer LCAs, and short knuckles, found the oem tie rods at max length have about 5 threads of engagement so ive got to look at a replacement for that. currently the rear is in the air, going to drop everything down and head over to bcworks and get some diff and subframe bushings made, then moidfy my rear LCAs some more, paint those, finish and clean and seal the towers now that i know this rediculous situation 'works' also added some needle bearings to the front of the supra and will be to the cressida for the constant stance problem of spring bind. the bearings are in good shape and i keep them clean on the supra, and oddly enough they only add one spring shim per coilover instead of two, i think it would help a little bit with the bind they have, oddly enough stance now offers these same needle bearings as an add on, or might be standard equipment by now.

also added an oil filter relocate and oil cooler to the supra

 

 

[Tbone 0]

Is that a porsche 968 or an fc35? in the back corner of your compound?

Regardless I'm loving the progress on the supra.

 

Fuck me you have an old kawasaki zx7 ninja to? Fuck me man that's sweet.

Your lucky to have s13 coupe.They are hard to find locally.

Im jelly.

[battleaxe 0]

That's a friend of mines FC, surprised you could tell, everything is hidden lol. The s13 I've had it for 10? Years. Civic is a lot of fun, I started a grip racingthing here locally called grippy feet, lots of fun to do that stuff with the civic. The zxr needs the forks rebuilt. Two mechanics have nailed on me, waiting for a third to finish a buddies bike then mine can go in the I can drive it. Bury yourself with projects and never really be happy

[Nigel_Vertigo 0]

Happiness isn't real.

[battleaxe 0]

was reading the moog catalog yesterday, found longer tie rods, turned out to be the long tie rods from the asymmetrical MKIII. go figure, fuck ya off the shelf parts

[battleaxe 0]

not sure if you guys are interested in the Supra or not? as its neither JZ nor X chassis, but this has been what ive been working on the last few weeks. After this is put back together i got a couple things i want to do on the cressida, then drive it to Bills to get tuned, then do more suspension stuff and put in my kaaz diff, put shorter LCAs in, raise it a tad in the front, might happen naturally when i shorten the LCAs, 40mm is too much . i can only run a 9 +30 and the wheel sits perfect...i need lower

 

anyways

 

dropped the subframe last weekend and knocked out the bushings in the subframes...came out in 20seconds each lol. bless the air hammer. dismantled the whole thing. every single piece popped right off, no hiccups, a first for me. very stunned.

dropped the frames off at bcworks to get some aluminum solid bushings made, should raise the frame a 1/4inch or so.

then i took apart the LCAs, added some welds to the drop bars on the LCAs bcworks made, we did this on the car..painted them and cut the tops out of the spring perch to make a halo, minor weight savings but still retains the 'strength' of the connecting the half moon. also took off the bracket that would puncture the body on repeat. cut slits into the brake line holders so i can take them off without taking the whole line off and still keep the line away from the wheel.

i tend to buy paint and play with colours quite a bit, and had this east coast grey in the cabinet, had green and blue pearl in it, so i primed the LCAs, then shot that east coast grey, then shot painthuffer's blue tang metal flake on top, turned out really neat and really pops in the sun and also in low light. all the fun things. cleaned up the shoes as well, and WOW, theres next to no shoe left and my goodness, the ebrake is amazing on such little material, im just blown away. checked out the pads and looks like one side is wear more than the other so ill have to check and see if the brakes are working alright.

also made some try again plates for the exhaust as i wore through, funny enough, only one spot. most of the exhaust is flattened into an oval..ill be redoing it when i go SR eventually. painted that too for fun

 

did some more arts and crafts. finally cleaned, painted and sealed the towers, also added a thick bar in there as a strut brace, still clears battery and creates a barrier for it to protect it. then flaked the heck out of it

also, better images of what i did to the arms

[Gordo 0]

Mk-IIs are cool,

but an SR ??

 

You will have the ghosts of dead Toyota & Nissan designers haunting you.

Good god, go Beams, or built 22R with a big turbo.

[Kyle 0]

I must be the only person in the world that hates the 22r for anything other than getting you across Africa on the worst fuel possible to go to a vigil for harambe. It's only good characteristic is seriously its ability to still push something along with almost everything wrong with it.