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Curse of the Cressida

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The oil changes are clean, so it's a bonus, I get what you're laying down though. It's been SR since 07 I think. I don't have an issue with SRs. Most who own them throw too much boosts and no tunes at it and expect miracles. They're far from the best motor but she's been a wonderful steed to me. I have the 1j in the bus and then the supra will also have a jz. The car feels good as is. I've had this car for about a decade and all the parts lived in the car before this...collectively the same car since buying my first in 02. Just a metal box that smokes tires. I'm getting over nostalgia and preserving the past. The newer generations keep fucking destroying these old cars for no reasons. I'll just move onto jzx110s, FRS and z33s as I end the lives of my current cars. I really want a z32 but their rpices are stupid expensive still up here..I have no clue why

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All the SRs that had run in the European touring car series had a special head, that didn't have rocker arms.

Too bad they never made it to N. America.

But yeah, typical SR builds are put together 'forum style'.

In other words, poorly built, kind of like the 7M...

(well, maybe not that bad...)

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I'm sure there's other ways around this. To me, it's a motor of response and has a window of "ok" which is under 380whp. After that grip becomes an issue and the tires get bigger and bigger. S chassis have drivetrain issues as well as the transmission is a weak link...but I'm not fully sold on. Depends on driving style and maintenance. Not sure why people push SR's out of their living range. The ve head sounds cool but more work than I'd ever put into it. People blow up SR's by going over 12psi on stock fuel and turbo and wonder why they blow. They are a motor that needs to be built to operate at above those numbers. I have a modded gt-rs with 264 hks cams, wiseco rods and pistons, BC valve train, so I have all the shit to make this an ok fun car..but imo a stock sr at 12psi and some weight reduction is a perfect skid car. It's when you have 4th+ gear banks (all of FD tracks) you can't operate it past that and expect to have success. I like 2-3gear tracks, they're more fun imo. Don't care about holding a long skid at 4th gear with max grip going 170mph

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A note on 'weakness' of the 71C trans, have you looked at old Nismo info on gear oil ?

They state that in temps over 90f, you should be going to a 140 wt lube.

Either that, or run a trans cooler set-up.

 

I've been running 140 in my 71B.

Probably wouldn't work in freezing temps though.

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havent ever looked into that. i run amsoil 80w90 in my gear boxes. never thought of using a trans cooler. always thought most of the issues involved with the transmission were just weak/worn components from a mix of age and poor maintenance. i have a ka box in my car right now as i broke a shift fork selector in my sr trans. which imo was potentially from running gl5 gear oil in it. i spoke to the amsoil rep and he said the difference between gl4 and gl5 is where they die from temp overload. gl5 does not work above certain temps, gl4 does. i think this was apart of the problem, but oh well. maybe ka boxes will still be around since most are going to cd trans locally...in north america anyways. if i break one or two more boxes i think ill go to a rb/z box. i just dont like most of the adapters and the cost involved with switching. as i said, depends on driving style, and tires. all about how much and how often torque is being engaged and disengaged. i run smaller tires and higher psi as my car is on that level with grip/power.

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welp, the BMW box i have, apparently some of the posts have no power, so there was the reason why it was intermittant starting when i last touched it...super odd, its a whole plate with studs in it...but anyways. not quite sure how my buddy found it but apparently the neutral switch was something funky, so he went right from ignition to starter trigger...so...should be good now? it works every time so far, but time will tell ...theres no other toyota wiring touching it so all should be cool.

first plan is to put the interior back together and then give er a clean and look over then check the axles and driveshaft bolts to see if any of them are loose, as currently after 100-120kmhr? (no idea on my speeds) it has a wobble im not too fond of. check those then i can drive it to work like normal, perhaps.

then after the bolt check, i plan to swpa back to the x8 rack because something is off on the x7 rack...and after that rack the car should be decent, pending the higher speed wobble.

i really want to drop the subframe out and get to making plates for the strengths and put the adjustable arms in...and the coilovers need to have a good once over and perhaps a rebuild as stance coils are utter shit. on top of pushing the old bushing out and finding a spherical to match it to replace the worn out bushes which have maybe 5000kms on them tops considering this car has been off the road for the better part of a fucking decade. one of the coilovers is 3/8 to 1/2inch higher or lower than the other to make it a level car. pretty sure i made them the same then went for an alignment and then saw how off they were still...as camber out make the car go higher...iunno....got do this all over again...this car needs some mileage and some love

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If you have the some box I have, ya it has some isolated posts, but I cut cut the plastic between and connected them with a copper bar.

 

Hows the preload on your coils? I had some that road like shit but it was because the previous owner completely let out the preload and lowered the car by using the preload section instead of the actual lowering section.

I went through and redid the preload the best I could on all of them, and nothing but buttery smoothness since then haha

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i redid the fronts when i had them out last. had them couple turns pasr snug and adjusted the lower part for height. the rear i have not taken out to adjust. i know the springs are captive and snug and the lowers are what were adjusted. ill look the whole rear over when i drop the subframe. got a lot to do on that. when i have it out ill look at the center bearing on the driveshaft to check its condition. i still dont know the vibration. all bolts are there, i took it to mach10 today and felt good at what i can assume is very fast.

 

the car rides good, it could just be better. the whole rear is stock minus the coil and diff. ive got subframe and diff and full arm set to go in..as well as paint and bracing. might drop the tank so i can make an access hole in the car to replace the pump eventually.

drove it around a bunch today and she feels good. i do know i want to upgrade my power wire. i think its too small for the length it has to go. i think its the standard thick ground cable size which i think im losing amperage.

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did one last event in the jzx yesterday. felt sloppy but stupid fast. got a short list of things that needs to get done to make me happy with it in the mean time. got full arms and bushs for the rear..gotta figure out the UCAs. drop the gas tank to make an access hole and plate that so when i need to change the walboro 255 out. redo and reorientate the back section of exhaust. go to 0 gauge power wire as i am having issues still when the car gets hot. fucking stupid on my part for doing less than 1 or 0 gauge. finish the seat rails as they are not finished on the passenger side, then paint them both. mount and paint the jzx rear bumper. get new front headlights maybe and then make sliders for the front bumper to be guided better. take apart he rear coils and confirm if theyre dead and require replacing...fuckin car has had them for like 10+yrs and has the equivilant of 3000kms on them. unless Matt did something super fucked with them at some point, im leaning towards shitty first gen stances...the lower bushings need to be replaced for heims anyways as theyre toast as well.the  curse, continues

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What gauge wire are you currently using? Are you talking about for your battery relocation?

I’m using 2ga from the battery to the starter with never an issue. The wire I’m using is really thick and stiff though. The strands are not fine. Instead of hundreds of 24 gauge strands it’s like 10 8gauge strands (maybe slightly exaggerated).

Either way it always seems to get the car started even when hot mid drift events.

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i dunno what size it is off hand, but its the size of a typical ground strap where it is normally. i think its a few sizes too small. my s13 has 0 gauge in it and oddly enough, the supra has simialr gauge wire iirc and its never had an issue. the cressida has a lot more electrical items than the supra does mind you. iunno. i think its something to replace anyways. factory bmw wiring for the power wire is bigger than what i have. maybe my starter needs to be pulled again and have a look over by the guys who rebuilt it.

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I noticed that much of the factory Cressida battery cable was around 4-6ga. I really beefed up a lot of wiring to the starter and off the alternator to the fuse box. By beefing up I mean using 2ga. in most areas of high amp draw.

I'm not an electrical engineer though, so maybe @BoristheCat can chime in on amp draw and wire gauge requirements.

 

I use a chart like this pretty regularly and as you can see 2ga is pretty sufficient power wire for most car setups and 1/0ga is almost overkill.

 Gauge-Chart.jpg

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Agree with what Zach said above. I ran 1/0 from my trunk all the way to my starter, and yeah, it's a little overkill. Could probably get away with 2 gauge.

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That graph makes me want to go back over my fan and headlight power wires

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Yeesh. I don't like the sound of that lol.

Take a look at my thread and steal my e-fan setup. It's been doing great so far.

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I got dual FALs individually relayed with waterproof connectors and such (I "overspend" on wiring like Boris ;) haha). Just used 10-12g if I remember correctly.  According to that graph probably on the low side for the 30amps they draw for the first second on spool up.

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There is another chart that is a bit more expansive on the smaller gauge wire amp ratings that would be a bit more pertinent to wiring headlights and fans.

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Does that chart means how much amperage it can take? I want to say I have 4-6gauge. My in line breaker is a 75amp breaker iirc

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going to my buddys place tomorrow to drop the 2jz out of his Gita. going to store it at his until i have a spot in my garage for it. put a mental list together in my head for this and fuck...gunna need a bunch of shit as i will do maintenance on it before tossing it in. As I work on the cressida ill be acquiring parts for the supras 2jz and then do that after the cressida is acceptable as a "daily"

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Mmmm pls post a pic of Gita.

Also, to answer your question about amperage. The amperage ratings of the wire according to the chart are for constant amps. I believe. I think the wire will be okay for short spikes of higher amperage, but not for long durations. I say this because on my 2ga battery relocation wire, I have an inline 200a circuit breaker. According to the chart, the wire for the length is rated for 200a, but the battery is rated for 800 CCA. IDK how all that works, but all I know is I have a circuit breaker rated for the safe amperage of the wire and I don't have issues.

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He has pics on his insta from before and photos of it tipped over just before we pulled it lol. Dropped it out Friday, real easy...after we put the car back up and also dragged the tank through gravel on boards pulling and tugging uphill...actual hell. 

Come to the conclusion I need a standalone for this motor so gonna grab a link g4 storm. Gonna grab a fluidampyr crank pulley, timing belt was done 10k kms ago. Needs a clutch and flywheel. I think I can reuse my clutch but I prefer to just get something new and be done with it, got the bell housing and my w58. Going to clean up all that and then redo the exhaust. My only concern is patch harness to the ecu as I'm stupid and this is not something I've ever done. Didn't realise ecus for IS are in the engine bay, and have their own cold air induction to cool the ecu...lol neat

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Yeah, same with the GS300/Aristo. That's why my ECU is in the engine bay. The factory Aristo harness is not long enough to get into the cabin.

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