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Curse of the Cressida

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The oil changes are clean, so it's a bonus, I get what you're laying down though. It's been SR since 07 I think. I don't have an issue with SRs. Most who own them throw too much boosts and no tunes at it and expect miracles. They're far from the best motor but she's been a wonderful steed to me. I have the 1j in the bus and then the supra will also have a jz. The car feels good as is. I've had this car for about a decade and all the parts lived in the car before this...collectively the same car since buying my first in 02. Just a metal box that smokes tires. I'm getting over nostalgia and preserving the past. The newer generations keep fucking destroying these old cars for no reasons. I'll just move onto jzx110s, FRS and z33s as I end the lives of my current cars. I really want a z32 but their rpices are stupid expensive still up here..I have no clue why

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All the SRs that had run in the European touring car series had a special head, that didn't have rocker arms.

Too bad they never made it to N. America.

But yeah, typical SR builds are put together 'forum style'.

In other words, poorly built, kind of like the 7M...

(well, maybe not that bad...)

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I'm sure there's other ways around this. To me, it's a motor of response and has a window of "ok" which is under 380whp. After that grip becomes an issue and the tires get bigger and bigger. S chassis have drivetrain issues as well as the transmission is a weak link...but I'm not fully sold on. Depends on driving style and maintenance. Not sure why people push SR's out of their living range. The ve head sounds cool but more work than I'd ever put into it. People blow up SR's by going over 12psi on stock fuel and turbo and wonder why they blow. They are a motor that needs to be built to operate at above those numbers. I have a modded gt-rs with 264 hks cams, wiseco rods and pistons, BC valve train, so I have all the shit to make this an ok fun car..but imo a stock sr at 12psi and some weight reduction is a perfect skid car. It's when you have 4th+ gear banks (all of FD tracks) you can't operate it past that and expect to have success. I like 2-3gear tracks, they're more fun imo. Don't care about holding a long skid at 4th gear with max grip going 170mph

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A note on 'weakness' of the 71C trans, have you looked at old Nismo info on gear oil ?

They state that in temps over 90f, you should be going to a 140 wt lube.

Either that, or run a trans cooler set-up.

 

I've been running 140 in my 71B.

Probably wouldn't work in freezing temps though.

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havent ever looked into that. i run amsoil 80w90 in my gear boxes. never thought of using a trans cooler. always thought most of the issues involved with the transmission were just weak/worn components from a mix of age and poor maintenance. i have a ka box in my car right now as i broke a shift fork selector in my sr trans. which imo was potentially from running gl5 gear oil in it. i spoke to the amsoil rep and he said the difference between gl4 and gl5 is where they die from temp overload. gl5 does not work above certain temps, gl4 does. i think this was apart of the problem, but oh well. maybe ka boxes will still be around since most are going to cd trans locally...in north america anyways. if i break one or two more boxes i think ill go to a rb/z box. i just dont like most of the adapters and the cost involved with switching. as i said, depends on driving style, and tires. all about how much and how often torque is being engaged and disengaged. i run smaller tires and higher psi as my car is on that level with grip/power.

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welp, the BMW box i have, apparently some of the posts have no power, so there was the reason why it was intermittant starting when i last touched it...super odd, its a whole plate with studs in it...but anyways. not quite sure how my buddy found it but apparently the neutral switch was something funky, so he went right from ignition to starter trigger...so...should be good now? it works every time so far, but time will tell ...theres no other toyota wiring touching it so all should be cool.

first plan is to put the interior back together and then give er a clean and look over then check the axles and driveshaft bolts to see if any of them are loose, as currently after 100-120kmhr? (no idea on my speeds) it has a wobble im not too fond of. check those then i can drive it to work like normal, perhaps.

then after the bolt check, i plan to swpa back to the x8 rack because something is off on the x7 rack...and after that rack the car should be decent, pending the higher speed wobble.

i really want to drop the subframe out and get to making plates for the strengths and put the adjustable arms in...and the coilovers need to have a good once over and perhaps a rebuild as stance coils are utter shit. on top of pushing the old bushing out and finding a spherical to match it to replace the worn out bushes which have maybe 5000kms on them tops considering this car has been off the road for the better part of a fucking decade. one of the coilovers is 3/8 to 1/2inch higher or lower than the other to make it a level car. pretty sure i made them the same then went for an alignment and then saw how off they were still...as camber out make the car go higher...iunno....got do this all over again...this car needs some mileage and some love

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If you have the some box I have, ya it has some isolated posts, but I cut cut the plastic between and connected them with a copper bar.

 

Hows the preload on your coils? I had some that road like shit but it was because the previous owner completely let out the preload and lowered the car by using the preload section instead of the actual lowering section.

I went through and redid the preload the best I could on all of them, and nothing but buttery smoothness since then haha

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i redid the fronts when i had them out last. had them couple turns pasr snug and adjusted the lower part for height. the rear i have not taken out to adjust. i know the springs are captive and snug and the lowers are what were adjusted. ill look the whole rear over when i drop the subframe. got a lot to do on that. when i have it out ill look at the center bearing on the driveshaft to check its condition. i still dont know the vibration. all bolts are there, i took it to mach10 today and felt good at what i can assume is very fast.

 

the car rides good, it could just be better. the whole rear is stock minus the coil and diff. ive got subframe and diff and full arm set to go in..as well as paint and bracing. might drop the tank so i can make an access hole in the car to replace the pump eventually.

drove it around a bunch today and she feels good. i do know i want to upgrade my power wire. i think its too small for the length it has to go. i think its the standard thick ground cable size which i think im losing amperage.

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