slapsticksammy 0 Report post Posted January 19, 2016 Alright, so fresh 1jz swap. Engine wants to start but doesn't (fires up and dies). Notorious Code 14 (IGF signal). Will be going through the diagnostic checks as per service manual. Does anyone have a good working zz30 ECU that I could try? Willing to pay shipping and deposit. Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slapsticksammy 0 Report post Posted January 19, 2016 Guess I should be more explicit, looking to borrow a jzz30 1jz non vvti ecu Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason 0 Report post Posted January 19, 2016 How many times do I have to tell you idiots.. BORROW THE CAR NOT THE ECU. If your wiring is bad, you're going to fry someone else's ECU. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gordo 0 Report post Posted January 19, 2016 "If your wiring is bad, you're going to fry someone else's ECU. " I was trying to be nice, and not point out the obvious last night, but now that the cat is out of the bag.......Yeah. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChriSOL 0 Report post Posted January 19, 2016 jzz30 = jzx90 ecu plugs? can't remember. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slapsticksammy 0 Report post Posted January 19, 2016 I had the wiring redone and verified by someone reputable on the boards. I checked the igf wire yesterday and it's good. Perhaps I should rephrase this, I am willing to try my ecu in someone else's car to verify that it is operational. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gordo 0 Report post Posted January 19, 2016 Oh, I trust info from a forum, Oh yeah......... Hope the info was from Kyle or Mark, otherwise your chance of getting good info is slim. How it should be checked is against the factory wiring diagram for the chassis/engine that your swap came from, in person by someone like Kyle or Mark. I've seen it too many times before, both automotive & industrial, where someone dicked with wiring, and even though they had a wiring diagram in front of them, or talking to a factory rep over the phone, they absolutely missed something. Had a Crown CNC tube bender, that had been dicked with by factory service, outside service, and other maintenance personel. Took me 4 fucking months to get that fucking thing running, Same with a large sheet metal shear just a few weeks ago, took several hours to find where someone had wired one of the switches wrong, and at the same business they have an industrial CNC band saw that I dread going into, it's been so fucked up by other people, it makes my head swim just looking at all the jumpers in the controls. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bradlee 0 Report post Posted January 19, 2016 plugs are the same. ECUs from importers on ebay are a lot more reasonably priced than they used to be. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kyle 0 Report post Posted January 20, 2016 Yeah, I have one. You fuck it up I'll fucking kill you. I'd confirm via continuity crank/cam sensors are wired right first Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slapsticksammy 0 Report post Posted January 20, 2016 Kyle, do you have a car I can try my ecu in? ecus are getting harder to find, especially a mt one Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kyle 0 Report post Posted January 20, 2016 Have you opened it up and inspected the circuit boards yet? I should have one running in like two weeks. About to go drop off cam covers for powder in an hour or so. You know how to use a multimeter? Continuity verification is extremely simple. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kyle 0 Report post Posted January 20, 2016 You'll need that multimeter on continuity anyhow to check if the timing sensor's resistance are in spec, so if you don't have one or know how to use one, now is the time to put on the big boy pants. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slapsticksammy 0 Report post Posted January 21, 2016 So this never-ending bullshit... Wiring checks out -No spark cylinders 4, 5 -Crank sensor resistance is 6.2k ohms, should be .8-1.4k ohms -Igniter voltage checks out -IGN1-6 voltages are weird, greater than the spec .5-1v; i'll have to scope out with oscilloscope -Opened up ECU and the caps all look good. Board looks good What are the chances a faulty crank angle sensor will cause a no spark condition? I had the trigger gear welded to the timing sprocket. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gordo 0 Report post Posted January 21, 2016 It's outside specifide values. Seems simple enough to figure out, try another....... If Toyota thought that a higher resistance was OK, don't you think they would have said that ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason 0 Report post Posted January 21, 2016 I hate to be the grammar Nazi, but It's outside specifide values. Hey all... (not just Gordo) you know that in Chrome, if you see the red squiggles under a word you type, you can run spell check with a right-click? *specified Thanks. -The Management. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kyle 0 Report post Posted January 21, 2016 How in the fuck do you understand how to use a scope, but the rest of this simplistic shit doesn't add up? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kyle 0 Report post Posted January 21, 2016 Also, the fact that 4/6 aren't getting spark, I'd be looking at that. Igt4/6 to igniter, igc 4/6 from igniter to coil, confirm they both coils have voltage, pinned correctly, etc Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gordo 0 Report post Posted January 21, 2016 Sory I misspeled a wurd Jason, I know JZXP has such a high standard of members here, and they expect the very best....... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rue 0 Report post Posted January 21, 2016 Have you swapped the failed coils to other working coil positions to confirm coils are not the cause of the no spark on 4 & 5? You didn't mention... just would have been one of the first things I would have checked Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Austin 0 Report post Posted January 22, 2016 If crank sensor has wrong resistance, probably swap that. Also, the crank trigger is one piece with the timing gear iirc. What exactly did you weld? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WhoreMouth_Jr 0 Report post Posted January 22, 2016 ^^ It's not actually 1 piece has been know to separate Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slapsticksammy 0 Report post Posted January 22, 2016 yap i swapped the coils and still no dice. buying a new crank sensor. This is what i did but not exactly that nice. I turned down the high spots with a lathe so it fits nice. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gordo 0 Report post Posted January 22, 2016 Hm, enough weld bead there to patch a broken crank....... You might try small tacks next time. You should also check if that reluctor picked up a magnetic charge from you dicking with it. That would raise hell with a hall-effect sensor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kyle 0 Report post Posted January 22, 2016 It's probably fine, Austin, if you didn't know this after your 50th rod knock, you suck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WhoreMouth_Jr 0 Report post Posted January 22, 2016 Welded timing keys don't look good on instafam though Share this post Link to post Share on other sites