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slapsticksammy

TX: ZZ30 ECU Can I Borrow?

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Alright, so fresh 1jz swap. Engine wants to start but doesn't (fires up and dies). Notorious Code 14 (IGF signal). Will be going through the diagnostic checks as per service manual. Does anyone have a good working zz30 ECU that I could try? Willing to pay shipping and deposit.

 

Thanks.

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How many times do I have to tell you idiots..

 

BORROW THE CAR NOT THE ECU.

 

If your wiring is bad, you're going to fry someone else's ECU.

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"If your wiring is bad, you're going to fry someone else's ECU. "

 

I was trying to be nice, and not point out the obvious last night,

but now that the cat is out of the bag.......Yeah.

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I had the wiring redone and verified by someone reputable on the boards. I checked the igf wire yesterday and it's good.

 

Perhaps I should rephrase this, I am willing to try my ecu in someone else's car to verify that it is operational.

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Oh, I trust info from a forum, Oh yeah.........

Hope the info was from Kyle or Mark, otherwise your chance of getting good info is slim.

How it should be checked is against the factory wiring diagram for the chassis/engine that your swap came from,

in person by someone like Kyle or Mark.

 

I've seen it too many times before, both automotive & industrial, where someone dicked with wiring, and even though they had a wiring diagram in front of them, or talking to a factory rep over the phone, they absolutely missed something.

 

Had a Crown CNC tube bender, that had been dicked with by factory service, outside service, and other maintenance personel.

Took me 4 fucking months to get that fucking thing running,

Same with a large sheet metal shear just a few weeks ago, took several hours to find where someone had wired one of the switches wrong, and at the same business they have an industrial CNC band saw that I dread going into, it's been so fucked up by other people, it makes my head swim just looking at all the jumpers in the controls.

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Yeah, I have one. You fuck it up I'll fucking kill you. I'd confirm via continuity crank/cam sensors are wired right first

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Have you opened it up and inspected the circuit boards yet? I should have one running in like two weeks. About to go drop off cam covers for powder in an hour or so. You know how to use a multimeter? Continuity verification is extremely simple.

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You'll need that multimeter on continuity anyhow to check if the timing sensor's resistance are in spec, so if you don't have one or know how to use one, now is the time to put on the big boy pants.

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So this never-ending bullshit...

 

Wiring checks out

 

-No spark cylinders 4, 5

-Crank sensor resistance is 6.2k ohms, should be .8-1.4k ohms

-Igniter voltage checks out

-IGN1-6 voltages are weird, greater than the spec .5-1v; i'll have to scope out with oscilloscope

-Opened up ECU and the caps all look good. Board looks good

 

What are the chances a faulty crank angle sensor will cause a no spark condition? I had the trigger gear welded to the timing sprocket.

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It's outside specifide values.

Seems simple enough to figure out, try another.......

If Toyota thought that a higher resistance was OK, don't you think they would have said that ?

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I hate to be the grammar Nazi, but

 

It's outside specifide values.

 

 

Hey all... (not just Gordo) you know that in Chrome, if you see the red squiggles under a word you type, you can run spell check with a right-click?

 

*specified

 

Thanks.

-The Management.

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How in the fuck do you understand how to use a scope, but the rest of this simplistic shit doesn't add up?

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Also, the fact that 4/6 aren't getting spark, I'd be looking at that. Igt4/6 to igniter, igc 4/6 from igniter to coil, confirm they both coils have voltage, pinned correctly, etc

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Sory I misspeled a wurd Jason,

I know JZXP has such a high standard of members here, and they expect the very best.......

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Have you swapped the failed coils to other working coil positions to confirm coils are not the cause of the no spark on 4 & 5?

 

You didn't mention... just would have been one of the first things I would have checked

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If crank sensor has wrong resistance, probably swap that. Also, the crank trigger is one piece with the timing gear iirc. What exactly did you weld?

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Hm, enough weld bead there to patch a broken crank.......

You might try small tacks next time.

 

You should also check if that reluctor picked up a magnetic charge from you dicking with it.

That would raise hell with a hall-effect sensor.

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It's probably fine, Austin, if you didn't know this after your 50th rod knock, you suck

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