Jump to content
Yoyi

Should I stay away from 2jzgte vvti?

Recommended Posts

I have the chance to buy a 2jzgte vvti (2002 aristo jzs161 with the ects-1 shit and a r154) x8 swapped for $2200.

 

My plan is to put my 1uz in the guys shell and sell it and put the 2jz in my car.

 

Should I du et? Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To wake up to this shit..........

 

" I have not runned it yet"

"I already got a wiring diagram"

 

depositphotos_10870760-Cartoon-caveman-w

 

Maybe you should get into nazkar dirt oval racing.......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

english might not be his first language but his questions are legit for groundhog's day.

 

specific issues related to wiring later vvti motors have been discussed. dudes like kyle and mark know whats up, rue has a dbw vvti 1jz and he's using a standalone. are you trying to retain the stock ECU and "make it work" or are you planning on going standalone anyway?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

making the dbw work is easy in an x8? news to me but i also spent a week finding a short in my body harness so im no expert.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Its full dbw but the pps is on the throttle instead of the pedal. Wiring is exactly the same as jzx100 swap as far as what gets power and what doesnt. No reason not to buy except dbw sucks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No way to bypass the dbw? I would like to keep the stock ecu untinl I get rich and be able to afford one.

 

The owner is selling it because he feels it has no power as before. I think this engine is in limp mode. I'll see if I can retrieve the cel codes tonight and see what's up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The 2jz vvti engines are fucking amazing.

I'm a 1jz fuck boi all day long, if I were to do it over from scratch the aristo 2jz vvti is a beast and everything the 3.0 should be

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

do it for $2200

 

thats what a r154 costs......

 

thats how much that motor and shell would cost

 

If you have the cash do it and sell you car?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here we can get r154 for max $700 with jz bellhousing and no clutch.

 

The auto 2jz gte vvti cost around $2000.

 

Auto 1jz gte vvti cost $1300.

 

Auto 1uz $1000

 

I test drove it last night and it idles and drives fine with mild power, no smoke, but I noticed a lot of detonation, and blow by, then I checked the compression and got:

180

160

80

80

No compression on cyl 5 (the spark plug insulator was broken and hanging on the ground electrode) then did a wet test and got 60 psi.

80

 

The guy knows shit about mechanic stuff, and was almost crying when I told him the engine problems. He dropped the price to $1700.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Easy to make it work. Depends on which ecu you want to go with. Many advantages, including better response and low end torque.

 

My suggestion:

Haltech PS2000 or Elite2500

Non VVTi GTE intake manifold (had IAC and mechanical throttle)

Or a Premium Japan DBW bypass kit, but if you do this you still need an idle valve.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×