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Brake line flaring tools?

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T4b9T0H.jpg

 

I guess I need to relocate this stupid fucking ABS pump to the battery tray on this pile of shit. That means cutting down and reflaring a half dozen brake lines.

 

Anyone have any luck reflaring the lines on the car with these hand tools, or are they total pieces of shit?

 

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Either that or my buddy has a badass hydraulic rig, except I'd have to take the lines off the car and put them in a vise. Or at that point bend new lines.

 

Or kill myself.

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There shit. take real fucking skill to get it perfect. had one and got a tester to test for leaks and almost every time a small leak. got one of these

 

http://www.mastercool.com/pages/flaring_tools.html

 

with the add on's and never had a problem since every flare perfect have never been happier :) but then it is almost what triple the price.

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That set-up costs more than swim will spend on a car........

 

I can see this turning into a disaster, then into the scrap pile.

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That mastercool setup is pretty sweet. I'm getting a cheap 3/16" inverted flaring die from NAPA, if it sucks ass I'll order that.

 

You're up early, Gordo. I actually spent a bit of money on this one, once I get anything worthwhile done on it I'll make a thread about it so I'm not shitting up brag mode with pictures of a stock IS.

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I wouldn't even try the napa one, and just take them to your buddy with the hydraulic unit.

The problem is, as rabaphent pointed out, is the high probability of failure with the cheap flare tools.

When you have a bunch of lines, that all screw into a manifold, just one screw-up will mean they all will need to be shortened, and re-flared.

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alot of the oem plastic/epoxy coated lines will readily slip through the jaws of the cheaper tools....my old ass KD tools works great....the newer kits....not so much.

 

ive had some luck with PITA cars using blue loctite and letting it sit and cure before tossing in the mandrel and the press to flare it.

 

then when it holds...you usually split a tube along the weld seam...and if the car has any hint of maint neglect id just replace all the lines....

 

i fucking hate that armor coating crap....been using the copper-nickle lines off a roll for a while now (~45$ for a 25ft roll of 3/16ths.)

 

get it by the roll and its annealed for easy soft bending....you can fish it through the oem bracket path and bend it in place quite readily...damn near impossible to kink compared to steel

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Sounds like I should just measure the lengths needed, flare new lines with my buddy's eastwood hydraulic tool off the car, then bend them to fit the stock clamps.

 

I'm weary of anything by dorman, should I try and find a part number for OEM toyota flare nuts?

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man, fuck ABS. that shits stupid.

delete the whole fucking system, plumb rears with proportioning valve, you're good. that way you have brand new lines, NO ABS, and no gay ass fucking unions which are guaranteed to leak.

 

problem solved.

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Looks like the eastwood is actually the same 71475 mastercool kit robaphent posted. It can be had for a lot cheaper than the $540 eastwood wants, on amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Mastercool-71475-PRC-Universal-Hydraulic-Flaring/dp/B007TN15EG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432763652&sr=8-1&keywords=hydraulic+flaring+tool

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I fucking hated double flaring my brake lines, went through 3 harbor freights and 2 auto zone double flaring tools. i would highly recommend the hydraulic tool.

 

Why keep the ABS? it looks like shit and unless your 90 years old im sure you can drive fine without it. Does the is300 have alot of systems intertwined with the ABS? i remember Austin talking about his speedometer was connected with it.

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Fwiw, I've been using the cheap flaring kit from O'Reillys for years and have never once had a leak at one of my flares, probably done hundreds of them. It takes a little more patience compared to a hydraulic press, but definitely a viable option imo.

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I hate my O'Reilly s flair tool. Id return it if I hadnt used my five finger discount while i was working there. I still might.

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Andrew,

 

For some reason, the automatic cars have a transmission speed sensor which they decided isn't good enough to get the vehicle speed signal from, so they made the ABS computer produce a speed signal identical to that of a Toyota vehicle speed sensor, and sent that to the dash and ECU. On the 02+ manual IS300's, there's a traditional vehicle speed sensor and they changed the loom accordingly, but they didn't bother to make the ABS unit different. If you add a pin to the ABS harness and send that signal where it needs to go, you can get a functioning, accurate speedometer reading regardless of the transmission or final drive.

 

When I deal with the wiring on my car, I'll be able to provide more specific details about that in my build thread.

 

Turbocharged400sbc,

 

Thanks for the lead on the NiCopp line. I ordered that to redo the brake lines in the bay instead of trying to cut and flare the stock coated steel lines. Looks like they also make 1/4" and 3/8", I wonder how it'd work for fuel line and such.

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The pins eventually break off the center of those flaring tools. They aren't bad for occational use.

 

Just don't try flaring ss brake lines lol. That sucks unless you use a torch. I tried it once, was a learning experience.

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The cheap stuff works fine on copper and aluminum but the brake lines on cars are a bitch to flare.

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Oh ok that makes sense, toyota being toyota... so why not just get rid of ABS and wire speedo up with marlin crawler sensor IF you do r154 and such.

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