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dzero

r154 trans issues

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So.. rebuilt my 154 before it went in the car, new shift forks bearing retainer and i think that was it.

Forgot about thrust washer. Was nice and quiet when first started/driven, keeps getting louder and louder and now sounds like i have a fucking dog box in the thing, and shifts like it too, 2nd and 3rd grind to shit when i shift hard.

So, did i fuck up by not putting the updated thrust washer in? To me it sounds like the input shaft bearing is gone on the thing, but i'm not too fluent in trans issue diag.

 

Also my factory toyota release bearing has lasted about 10 hours of driving, half on track half street.

Picking up a spare trans in a few weeks from some guy for 500$ so im gonna throw that in and take mine apart and look at shit, just wondering if any of you have had issues like these, and what your fixes were?

 

Cheers fuckers.

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dogbox

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Yeah my shit does the same thing, dude. Except without the grinding because I replaced the synchros. I replaced the thrust washer but forgot about one of the bearings, I believe it was the counter shaft bearing on the retainer plate. First through third is incredibly loud, especially with a solid trans mount. Solution: drive with the windows down. Not opening it up again. Fuck R154s.

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Damn, this is almost sounding like a 7M thread, except for the leaking coolant. :blink:

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Instead, there's leaking gear oil since the sealant I used was probably expired. Maybe I'll do that sober next time.

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Probably the reason so many 'rebuilds' turn out poorly........

(except 7Ms, as there is nothing one can do about them failing)

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Noisy from trans when clutch engaged, then when i push on the pedal to disengage it sounds like im murdering thousands of baby squirrels because of my release bearing.

Shits annoying as fuck, but im just gonna wait til i throw that other box in and maybe pull the fucker apart again.

 

Fucking wish i had money for a dogbox. i'd even street drive with it. Clutch in this thing is aggressive enough that i might as well be driving with one. forgot how much fun stop and go traffic was for the left leg.

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seriously thinking about getting a fucking g force and a winters quick change or something for my racecar. have extra r154 to rebuild with MC parts for street duty, if that works then i will also rebuild the other one too.

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seriously, the line between having a shitty time hacking together last-minute fixes and being able to drive a season without a million bullshit repairs is not trying to purpose mass-produced commuter grade drivetrain as dedicated race parts. take from that what you will.

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If your gonna take the time to rebuild something do it right the first time. Follow the tsrm and triple check your work. I feel ya bud.

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This thread is relevant to my interests.

 

Plan for this winter is:

 

Install OE Toyota engine and trans mounts.

 

Install Solstice/Sky AR5

 

Cross fingers

 

 

 

I've given up on the 154. They were shoddy to begin with and at this point are 20 years old. Hopefully the newer AR5 will be a bit better.

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ilia: you might wanna look at the r155 too. it would probably be a good match with 3.90 final drive

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You might want to decide if you would rather replace transmissions, or clutchs.........

A softer clutch will protect the trans.

 

Also, just buying an old R154 is your problem. If you had built it before throwing them in the car, you would be getting better life.

And also going through the trans every few events would help.

Do you really think any trans will take endless clutch kicks ?

Why do you think real race cars get their trans pulled after every single event, and problem parts replaced even if they look good ?

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Out of curiosity, does anyone run a mk3 trans and have issues with it shitting out fluid?

Exploded my x90 trans (which lasted 3 years and never leaked a single drop) so i bought a mk3 trans to replace it for now. All new seals on it and it was fine on the dyno but as soon as I went drifting it was puking out mad fluid.

Some guys say it's because there is no vent on the mk3 trans? Was gonna drill a hole in the shifter housing a run a hose to a catch can inside the car to see if that would help haha.

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I decided on the AR5 trans. Supposedly they are roughly the same design as the R154 but with better synchros. I verified that all the aftermarket R154 internals can be used in it. ie shift forks & thrust washer. Found one off a polaris slingshot (didn't have to modify shifter like I would've from a solstice) that only had 100 miles on it, got it for $700. Bought a 2jz r154 bellhousing and bolted it right on. I'm using the solstice concentric slave cylinder with landcrusier master, 2JZ W58 flywheel and pressure plate with S10 clutch plate that I had the friction material swapped out on. I'm going to run a 4.30 rear end but might go 4.10 if it seems too short.

 

R154 ratios:

1 2 3 4 5 R

3.25 1.96 1.31 1.00 0.75 4.22?

AR5 ratios:

1 2 3 4 5 R

3.75 2.26 1.51 1.00 0.73 3.67

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I decided on the AR5 trans.

 

AR5 ratios:

1 2 3 4 5 R

3.75 2.26 1.51 1.00 0.73 3.67

 

Pretty useless first gear....

So you bought a 4-speed with a grocery store parking lot cruse gear for your grandmother.

Even more so with a 4.3 rear end.

Good job posting a bunch of stuff most people already knew.

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AR5 are close to the R154, but cant take anything over 400whp.

 

If any of you still have stock r154s, I'd recommend Redline heavy shockproof...

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Gordo, aren't you running like a 5.29 in the rear?

I would assume you're running a t56 for the tall first gear?

Its only a 5mph difference topped out in 1st between the AR5 and R154.

I liked the closer ratios on the AR5, meh.

Could run the factory 3.9 gear ratio and still have a faster 60ft time than a 4.3 R154.

I have a 4.3 supra diff though and a low power na 2jz, I think that'll be more fun.

I'll keep the 3.9 if I turbo it down the line.

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I was running 4.56 on the street, and the 5.3s at the Texas mile, but I turn way more RPM than you will ever do.

And that was with an auto, which typically use deeper gears.

(a little history: the HKS drag MkIII ran 5.3 gears behind a powerglide, but turning 10k).

 

Now I have an HPI 6-speed, with a 2.9 first, and a .86 6th.

With 3.9 gears, top end will be about 175, about the same as what I had.

And with a twin plate Tilton/Quartermaster/Borg-Beck 7-1/4" clutch, on a 7lb flywheel, with the 2.9, it will beyond most men, and all women to actually get the car rolling without doing a 8k clutch dump.

 

Had bought a T56, and then sold it off after I realized I fucked up buying anything with that lousy of a ratio spread.

But that was back in the day I was going to do a blower, and make grunt, not speed.

 

I really don't understand the AR/T56/CD009 crap, with those ratios.

A better choice would be one of the newer T600 5-speeds, as they can be had with a good ratio spread that would work with you guy's low boost, early spool thinking.

But wait....

They cost 2k...

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