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I think I might be a retarded moron.

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I'm running out of ideas and my last resort is to ask for some help with this. I've done so much reading and looking into it and all I've been able to figure out is that I am a moron.

 

So this is what I'm trying to do:

Installed vvti JZX110 motor into a shit IS300. I have an open downpipe till it runs good, fmic, HKS suction kit. It is pretty stock. 255 fuel pump too.

Ended up moving a couple weeks later and put it aside till recently. I had a JZX90 throttle body so I installed that, found a 100 A/T ecu, LS400 MAF and re pinned the 110 harness into new 100 connectors.

 

It always starts and drives around pretty smoothly, but hits a wall as soon as you see a pound of boost. It will cut out at 5k in neutral also. For some reason though, it rips if you unplug the tps for about 30 min and it's back to fuck.

 

There seem to be a million things that could cause one of these things to break up, so I started checking on the most obvious things people have issues with.

 

I tried to pull codes from the ecu and got nothing. I calibrated the tps and it's in spec, still doing the same shit. Tried new tps anyway (TRC tb with 4-wire sensor). Tried a new MAF, same shit. Brand new bkr6e's gapped a few ways but currently at .20 and nothing different. Got new coil packs, borrowed another igniter, still the same. Made boost leak tester and it's fine. Drank a lot of whiskey and that didn't fix it. I read up on shit A/T ecu's do (what some people say at least) and tried jumping some shit and it made no difference. My X8 had an auto ecu and it didn't require any weird shit but that wasn't vvti.

 

Anyway I'm using an M/T ecu now and it's identical. There's a lot of knowledgable dudes around here (Chicago) that are stumped about it also. co-workers at Touge Factory tell me to go pfc, but I really don't wanna do that because I am only running a down pipe and air filter.

 

I checked my wiring so many times but never rule out the possibility that I fucked something up because I am retard.

 

Why does it rip with the tps unplugged for 30-40min? Probably because it takes that long for the ecu to freak out and go into limp mode I'm guessing? Also noticed that the motor shakes like a shitty KA at idle, JZ's usually idle really smooth. Could be related?

 

Is there something I missed? Besides the fact that I don't know what I'm doing.

 

I hate to come in here and right off the bat start asking for help, but I'm puzzled about this shit and don't know what else I can look into trying.

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C'mon Gordo. Cut him a little slack. This isn't a run of the mill problem so there won't be a run of the mill answer.

 

I don't speak VVTi so forgive any dumbness.

 

Did you wire any of your coilpacks backwards? They only run one direction on the non-vvti motors.

 

Did you check resistance on your MAP/MAF sensor (is this MAP or MAF?)

 

Did you check for wet plugs? Or what color are your plugs? You've had them out....

 

What wiring did you fucks with to make this run? What sensors have you changed? What sensors could be fouled?

 

 

Just remember, throwing a PFC at it isn't going to fix shitty wiring or broken sensors.

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First of all, I'm sorry for writing a book here. I like to explain things thoroughly though.

 

I didn't have to mess with any of the engine wiring besides changing the ecu plugs from 110 to 100. I did notice however that the coil pack connectors were all brittle and janky so I replaced the coilpack section of the harness with my spare vvti 2J harness (they use the same coils and connectors).

 

I'm on my second MAF now and it seemed to clear up an old issue I was having with fouling plugs and dumping tons of fuel on my old one. I'm not sure what values to check for as far as resistance though, I'm not convinced this MAF is good and it would be cool to rule out. I'll search resistance values for it and see if that comes up with something.

 

Since I changed MAFs my plugs have been a healthy brown. Before though, the thing would run so fat that it would stay running for 10 seconds after I turned off my fuel pump. (It's wired direct on a switch because IS uses some gay fuel pump resistor)

 

So basically I've replaced TPS, MAF twice, ecu once, plugs a couple times, all coil packs, I've tried 2 fuel pumps, igniter, ran it out of gas once. I've checked function of other sensors though, like basic unplugging to see what changes and they seemed ok. Those were cam sensors, coolant temp sensor, checking IGF function, O2 sensor, pretty much everything relevant that I can think of.

 

The 110 engine harness has a few body plugs that actually fit directly into an IS300's body harness, but I had to re-pin a few of them. Basically you have to find/relocate injector power, igniter power, +B, and there might have been a couple others. It was very time consuming to figure out since I wasn't able to find a pinout for any of the body side engine harness plugs for JZX110 or crown, and I'm not good at that shit. I'm also running the stock 2J ecu to control body functions, it's literally just 2 plugs from the body harness that go into it. You need that to maintain some interior functions I guess. I had to jump 3 wires from the Lexus ecu to the 1JZ ecu to get it to work. I still have to jump my speedo, tach, and AC, but I'll do that later.

 

But I imagine that if I didn't have those right, the car wouldn't be capable of running right at any time. The weird thing here is that it'll run flawlessly and pull hard all the way to rev limiter if you disconnect the ecu from power for a day and unplug the tps. If you plug it in, the car hits a wall and won't be able to raise rpm's if you're seeing any positive boost pressure whatsoever. I'd just leave that faggot thing unplugged forever but after about 40 minutes of good driving, it reverts back to the way it runs with the tps plugged in. (Some kind of limp mode?)

 

And you're right, PFC isn't gonna fix sensors or bad wiring, so I don't know why I get that as a solution so often. This thing should be able to run just fine as it is.

 

Insurance fraud has been getting so tempting lately.

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100 ecu should run fine without a tps. Try pulling the Vvti solenoid out and cleaning the screen.

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Did you ever make this thing return setup? Like eliminate the in tank fuel regulator and just run the fuel rail fpr?

 

Do you have a wideband?

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Kyle, I'll try that tonight and see what it does.

 

Austin, I did make a return line to the tank, but I didn't mess with that regulator thing when I put in the 255. I assume I'm supposed to bypass it? I can pull it out tonight

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Yeah. If you dont delete the intank regulator, you never see rising rate with boost which means you lean out and break up.

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I had a feeling that's what that was for.. When I had it apart I checked to see if you're supposed to bypass that regulator when installing an upgraded fuel pump and didn't see anything confirming that. Probably because whoever was doing the install I looked at wasn't doing a return setup for whatever reason. Ugh. Should have looked further into it.

 

But how would it be able to pull strong when I unplug the tps? Shouldn't it always break up regardless of what sensors are plugged in if my fuel system isn't rising rate?

 

I'm gonna bypass that regulator shit anyway, sounds way too important to ignore. Thank you for that idea!

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Don't worry about what Austin said since it has no logical bearing on wtf is going on right now. The fact that you can kill power and the car rips as toyota intended means you're onto something. Fuel pressure is not electronically controlled, so that's bs. Fix what's wrong first, then worry about fuel pressure. Have you tried to check for codes? you said it runs rough and shaky at idle or some shit when it's doing this. Makes me think of the ocv. They're cheap enough. Sometimes it's just the filter screen, so I'd pop the banjo bolt out of the solenoid and clean it out well. That's where I'd start.

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I checked for codes on the A/T ecu I was using before and it gave me nothing at all. I was about to try to pull them last night on te mew ecu but it's 4 below zero and I had been out there fucking with some other shitbox that wasn't starting at all. I'm gonna check that ocv right now and pull codes after.

 

That fuel thing scares me though because I don't have a wideband hooked up now, with my luck I'll end up leaning out and melting something lol

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Sounds like fuel starvation to me.

Did you do something stupid, like plug the line coming from the tank that went to a charcoal canister ?

I know, your a plane mechanic, but this isn't the military, with shit-tons of books telling you what to swap out next.

(you see, you are not the first miltary tech I've delt with.........)

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Actually what austin said makes total sense since after ecu loses power it resets. 30 minutes of ripping then ecu says this shits not right and boom problem time.

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FWIW my vvt PFC came with crank position wiring reversed. And my harness was actually not reversed. I had to repin the plug to use PFC. So don't ever expect a PFC to even work out of the box let alone fix your car for you.

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Yeah I'm not about the idea of going PFC in my situation anyway.

 

I'm not a military person or a mechanic of any type either haha

 

So I checked out the ocv last night and it was okay. Cleaned the filter screen since I had it out also. Ran the car for a bit and it's the same, no codes either. I'm gonna try to drive it a bit longer and check codes again. I'm very curious to see what eliminating that in-tank regulator thing is gonna do, it's just been so fucking cold out and my furnace/water heater is in the garage. I was able to open the garage door last time I had the tank open, but it'll drop the whole house down to damn near freezing at this point. Maybe I'll just have to deal with the cold and do it anyway.

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Ok, so I did that fuel regulator thing, went over my harness, checked the vvti solenoid, added a couple grounds, found a short on the body side to MREL and fixed that.

 

There still seems to be a problem with MREL though because the EFI relay clicks like crazy when I press the brake pedal (wtf). It also makes my tach work when the brake is pressed, and it's not wired yet so I don't know what the fuck that is.

 

 

 

I wired my speedometer to the cluster, does SPD actually matter to the ecu? Pretty sure the ecu needs that. I'm going to bridge SPD signal from my Lexus ecu to the 1J one and see if that does something.

 

After doing the above said stuff though, car runs the same. Arson is gonna be the answer pretty soon.

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You are a moron. Either you have some kinda chewed harness or you wired something to the tach and probably wired some other shit wrong. Ecu does NOT need spd signal. Sounds like his thing is hack as fuck

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Did the cats:

a ) chew on the harness

b )piss on your ECU

c ) Both of the above

??????

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wait .... your not supposed to plug the line that use to feed into the canister?

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Took you a long time to react to that one.......

 

No, it is the vent to the gas tank.

 

Works like this:

The gas cap is sealed.

Put gas into tank, seal tank.

Run car hard, use fuel.

Fuel is taken out, makes vacuum.

Vacuum gets high enough that pump can't pick up fuel any more.

Fuel delivery gets weak, engine starves for fuel, runs like shit, or stops, or burns holes in piston, or blows ring lands out.

 

Run car slow, vacuum builds slowly, fuel vaporizes, helps take up space that liquid fuel left when being pumped out.

Car drives ok slow, car gets sick when driven hard.

 

I don't know why this isn't clear to people, but I have seen quite a few tuner cars suffer from this because they don't understand that modern fuel injected cars work on a closed fuel system.

And that if you remove the 'ugly' charcoal canister, and just plug the line, you are disturbing the natural harmony of things, and the gremins will chase you down, and make life suck.

 

You need to at least vent that line to a small filter (to keep bugs out), or run it to a point in front of the turbo, but behind the air filter, so it can breath clean air.

You will still polute, as when the car is just sitting, gas vapors are free to escape.

 

I picked up a charcoal canister off a Chaser, it is about 1/4 the size of the US version, still use the OEM valve, and did use the original routing of the hoses when the stock-ish intake was on the car.

With the ITBs, the hose will just run to the common vacuum manifold that will supply MAP, power brake booster, etc..

You can't hook to the manifold on a boosted engine, as even 15 psi to the tank will probably make bad things happen,

so go ahead of the turbo inlet, or just to a nice little filter.

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wait a minute, hold on. you can take the charcoal canister out of the car?

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You fuck off, will you just go slam your dick in in a door.......

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You fuck off, will you just go slam your dick in in a door.......

x2

 

btw normally i just sacrifice 1-3 smoke's for the butts and shove em into the tank vent to canister hose after extending it up to the filler neck out of the way of road debris.

 

keep in mind most oem tank vents do have a rollover valve but not all,

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