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giving head to my 2j

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blew the head gasket on my 2jzgte. about to reassemble everything and just wanted to get chewed out by some of you fags for double checking.

 

how many of you guys did the re torque procedure after installing ARP head studs. if not what specs did you use to tighten the bolts. i really didn't want to pull the cams off and put them back on just to check torque.

prepping the block, anything special that helps before i put it all together or just standard cleaning and prepping for new gasket.

sent the head off to be decked and cleaned and a valve job since its there.

 

Hey, how exactly is a rainbow made?

How exactly does the sun set?
How exactly does the posi-trac rear end on a Plymouth work!?

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Tighten the bolts at both ends of the head first, then start the engine up without coolant, bring up to temp, and tighten the others.

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thats not helpful

 

even if, i would still need to pull the cams to tighten bolts. do you even own a 2j bro

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If you lost the head gasket due to detonation, you most likely have damaged ring lands also, just look at Austin's recent build thread.

 

No, wouldn't own a JZ anything.

As they say, 99% of 7M problems are owner induced, a JZ won't take stupidity much better than it's grandfather M.

 

By the way, use the torque specs that ARP gives, and use the Toyota tightening sequence.

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Arp specs are strange. I always do 90-95 ftlbs in three stages. Lube the bolts with motor oil. Clean block and head with razorblade only. Do not gouge the head. Do not use air tools or a buffing pad. Do not use rtv or copper spray. Clean and dry sealing surfaces. Torque from inside out. I've never had a blown headgasket using above procedure even at 20 psi and i never retorque either.

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thats a bit high austin. I was at the dyno yesterday checking out a 2j with 1300whp that has the tq lower than that

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No retorque here. Even on four digit power numbers. Haven't seen one come back.

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Use the moly paste ARP says to use.

Oil will give un-even results, and just because you have a good engine design (the head doesn't collapse after repeated heat cycles like a 7M) doesn't mean you should do sloppy work.

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Arp actually specifies a different torque for motor oil, so i dont think i fucked up too bad using it. As for the torque, oem specs are something like 19ftlbs +45*+45* so 90 can't be too far off.

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I usually coat the bottom of the studs with engine oil and wipe it off. Too much and it'll push out onto the gasket surface. Then slather the top threads, washers, and nuts with arp lube

 

20,40,60,85

Or 30,60,85

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Iirc you don't need to pull cams to get to the studs. But I can't remember.

 

Make sure the block surface is really clean. If you're careful you can clean with roloc but not reccomended unless you have a steady hand.

 

There's some more backyard ways to make sure block has good surface with a flat sanding board and packing grease. Again not reccomended unless you notice issues.

 

Scotchbright razor and brakecleen is the best IMO.

 

Yes I've used all techniques without issue. Most people will say roloc is terrible idea which I will agree with.

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How in the piss did you blow a hg on a 2jzgte?! Did you get it to hot? I have seen 600hp+ on factory bolts and factory hg.

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no damage ring lands gordo. checked the piston walls for wear and smooth as a baby ass.

i scraped the block with a razor blade, didn't get much. there is some darker areas kinda discolored but its not raised surface and it won't come off with a razor blade.

 

the car never got hot or over heated. i think that the HG was leaking coolant into the 4th piston for a while from how the intake valves looked and the crystals in my DP. i always had to had some coolant every couple of month but not a whole lot. then one day on the on ramp to the freeway it just let loose, started missfire at low idle. would drive fine at speed but if idled to long the cylinder would get coolant into it.

 

checked the oil, none made it into the pan. checked the rotation and pistons and all have no play or marks on cylinder walls. put oil into each cylinder and rotated, nothing leaked by the piston rings.

 

 

all this work is being done with the block still in the car. so don't give me to much crap about not rebuilding the whole motor.

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That sounds like broken ring lands bud. Mine had no wear on the cylinder and it was 55psi down on cyl 6, and cyl1 was cracked but not losing compression yet.

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Lofty you suck. There's no fucking way without pulling the cams at least with any tools I have. Also, roloc is very general. They have super harsh grit roloc sand paper discs and super soft nylon roloc bristles. The latter is great for your steel block. Don't ever touch the head with it though. But yeah, do you actually do any work on your car? Seriously?

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Bottom line

You have to pull the Pistons to inspect the ring lands. Lack of wear on the cyl walls won't tell you that.

Some one please edjumacate me on how ring lands can blow a hg. Shit don't make sense.

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yeah but there would be other issues if ring lands where damaged. i have seen bad ring lands and this doesn't look like it one bit. like i said i didn't lose the HG due to detonation though, the water jacket jut split on one of the layers of the MLS gasket.

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