Jump to content
hantavirusx8

Project Hantavirus

Recommended Posts

Thanks! Parcfest was cool. Crank pulley took a shit, swapped it, shortly after my teammate's 2JZ launched it's crank pulley for the second time. Luckily we brought two extras. Fluidamper is high priority now. The Cobalt fan was acceptable. Temps would creep up to 210-220 after a lap and quickly cool back down once stopped.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jake,

I was talking to rich about your and Q's issue with the pulley. He is thinking about doing a factory pulley refurbishing service with poly Vs. Rubber.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was under the impression the rubber center was essential for it to work as a crank damper. I wonder if the poly would still do the job?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No.......

Changing the characteristics of the bonding material, changes the ability of the dampener to smooth out rotational vibrations.

That is why solid aluminum crank pulleys are a bad idea, especially on an inline-6.

 

So, some other material, like bubble gum, bondo, duct tape, pourable urethane, etc., is a bad idea.

 

But what the fuck, someone who wants to make a fast buck, that doesn't have a clue, needs to eat to.

Just make sure you have a spare engine ready to go when the nose snaps off the crank.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Be careful! I've seen many a JZ go down due to faulty factory harmonic balancers. This is one area that you definitely want to spend the extra money on a good performance part.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks again for the rides man! Car is rad!

 

Hopefully I can join you guys next time haha

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Calling Gordon....

 

I've seen a lot of horror stories about V8 guys who use fluidamprs, snapping snouts off left right and center. I realize the harmonics are different on a straight six but that's where my understanding ends.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know nothing about V8s, or Fluidamper products.

 

Schultz+I+know+nothing.jpg

 

 

I do like my ATI very much :)

Constant 8500 rpm shifts on a 7M, without a single crank problem.

(other than tearing the flexplate off the crank with a very solid shifting auto)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Car sounds good. Its funny you used a jeep color, my engine bay (and planning on painting the interior, when its caged) is jeep glacier silver.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The ATI is most likely cheaper than one from Toyota, and is rebuildable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was getting a weird feeling and vibration from the back. Took a look underneath and I could move the diff around about an inch in any direction. Rear bushings torn in half, front bushings crushed, subframe cracked. Got the XM Supra diff conversion kit. Put together a Supra diff, 4.30 welded.

Welded the crack and added some extra weld around the bushings for strength
20150926_121952_zpszfl1gga2.jpg

Put the diff into place, tacked this in, pulled the diff back out and welded it up
20150926_151214_zpsrogpclac.jpg

Completed, should be much stronger than oem
20150926_154915_zpsvg9isaiy.jpg

My only problem with the kit is the stud conversion for the cover. Idk if my car is different or if I'm just retarded, but there was not enough room to put the diff in with the studs on. Once you'd start the studs through the bushings the front of the diff wouldn't clear the subframe. I welded the nuts to the studs and used them as bolts. Works great now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

XM's stud thing is fucking retarded.......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That was cool, similar, my driving looks lazier and shallow angle. I think almost everyone in a car with decent power takes that similar line around parc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dang mark runs tighter on the inside from turn 1 to 5 he also bounces limiter more ( guessing that's the extra 100hp difference).

His line going into dead mans corners is way interesting.

I don't see anyone else doing that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Look at my build thread.......

Uses the stock bolts.

Why xm continues this crap, when everybody else has been making something better is just mind blowing.

Also, solid mounting the front of a supra housing, while using urethane on the rear is not the brightest idea.

 

I think LittleBitch Performance uses something simular to mine, as does all of the manufactures in Japan.

 

Hantavirus, hope you don't have more failures there, you should at least weld the stock diff bushing pockets a full 360 degrees.

And for christ sake, put your tunnel brace back in........

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I'm going to make a reinforcement plate across the subframe and around the bushing pockets. Tunnel brace is on my list! Time for another trip to pick n pull.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

chris:

 

I don't use that line any more. Now I normally hold the drift from the sweeper longer then ebrake hard and tap the foot brake to spin myself around it while half clutching and staying in the throttle. If you ebrake then lift you'll fly off into the river. I can show you some time.

 

I think thats like the only cool use for youtube doubler.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now

×