Jump to content
Urrik

New Look / Same Poor Taste

Recommended Posts

Found my pictures, probably <500 miles in as well.  But that was thousands of miles ago now.  I just assumed it was because literally every bushing is either hard poly or solid at his point for me, and the fact that I remove every one of those dampener bricks on the subframe and trans xmember haha.  I'm a pussy and rarely even go fast enough to get to the vibration (it's moved further back now because I swapped from 4.3 to 3.9 too) and when I am going that fast it's not for very long hah.

1KuhlIC.jpg

XeDeilP.jpg

 

Edit:

My buddy thinks it could possible be a warn out housing busing: https://ampdistributing.com/collections/toyota-r151-r154/products/1986-93-toyota-supra-r154-transmission-extension-tail-housing-bushing

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah pretty sure I killed my slip yoke bushing. You can see here the chunks smeared out the end of it:

50359639453_6e94a77cdf_c.jpg

Probably the only bearing in the trans that I never replaced lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

haha ya same, because typically they aren't included in the rebuild kits. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Mazda guys are lucky, someone makes a roller bearing to fix that issue.
Looked at one of my W58 builds to see if it would be possible, but there isn't enough material in the housing to machine it large enough for an off the shelf bearing.

It could be saved by machining another sleeve bearing from bronze to replace the original pressed in one,
but not cost effective if you don't have a buddy that owns a machine shop.

To avoid having that happen again, that area has to be super clean, the yoke bearing surface 100% free of nicks or rust pits, and a lot of grease on installation.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm surprised none of these trans have a roller bearing for that application from the factory...

There could have been some imperfections on the yoke that I hadn't noticed. I also do jizz a good amount of gear lube on the yoke before installing it usually. Could a poorly balanced driveshaft have influenced this failure? Though it might just be a combination of age and abuse -- there has to be over 200k miles on this box at this point. 

Aside from whatever I do for a trans, I'll get a new yoke and u-joints and have the balance checked at a different shop

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it's just a score or two, polish up the yoke, and insert it.
If there is a lot of slop, the tail housing is toast, but if it has normal side to side movement, run it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Compared to the two A340 trans I have laying around, theres quite a bit more play with the yoke inserted. Theres also tons of metal in the fluid. I'm ready to call time of death. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fuck it.

50641388396_4dc1d1a533_c.jpg

50641389456_ccd2b32fa5_h.jpg

If I'm going to spend a retarded amount of money on an R154, it might as well be a brand new one. Also went back to a two piece driveshaft. By chance my old MA70 showed up in a junkyard 5 miles from me (where it belongs). Still had the driveshaft in the back where I left it when I sold it. So I'm using the front half mk3 shaft with the original X90 rear half.

If I can get a tail housing for the old box, I might fix it up to put back in the Cressida with some form of UZ because I want another V8 car to cruise around in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

damn ya man, how much are those r boxes new? 2-2500?  id imagine a standard rebuild is in the 1k range. in cdn money anyways

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

$2800 at driftmotion right now. Seems pretty cheap tbh. Figured they'd be $6k or something. Seems like all good gearboxes are at least $3k (for any decent car).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

2800 shipped from DM - 300 without bellhousing - cash back on a new credit card lol = 2300 all in

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Checking into this topic a bit late here, but I also get the same vibration on my car above 90. Balanced many different wheels, new wheel bearings, new ball joints, arm bushings, diff mounts, new diff bearings and rebuilt trans with all new bearings. It's kinda disheartening to have brand new everything and still experience this vibration I can't get rid of. I'm surprised so many of us are reporting this issue. If it is leading to catastrophic failure, that's not comforting.


Although doubtful, let us know if the new trans solves the issue, or if the vibration ends up eating your new trans too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The driveline vibration is completely gone with the new trans and 2-piece shaft. I think the link between all of these cases is the single piece steel driveshaft. There's a good reason they're 2-piece from the factory. I don't think a single piece shaft, at the length that they need to be for our cars, can be balanced well enough and produce low enough vibration levels for high speeds if it's made of steel. That, and I dont trust the quality of any driveshaft shop. I can think of a few single piece oem shafts that are pretty long, but they're either aluminum or carbon composite (350Z for example)

I think my transmission was an extreme case; the combination of a 30+ year old extension housing with 200k miles, plus all of the mass of the heavy shaft without a center support bearing, plus possibly a poorly balanced shaft, or maybe throw a nick or two on the slip yoke, who knows. When I get a chance I'll open it up and take a look, the shit still went into every gear fine so it'd be great if I could save it with a replacement tail housing and getting as much aluminum glitter out of it as possible 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't think the 1-piece is the issue, I have had a one piece steel shaft made for me by the Driveshaft Shop back in the mid '90s, and never hurt my trans.
Maybe who ever you bought it from was the issue....Who was that ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It was originally from XM and always had a slight vibration when it was in my Cressida -- I'm sure several others on here also have XM shafts.  It was then remade at a local shop here.  I hadn't used them before because the other local place I went to before made one for my Z31 that was shit (matched the car). Maybe capable shops are hard to come by nowadays...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, a capable shop is hard to come by. I don't understand why it's so hard especially if you "specialize" in drivetrain

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 hours ago, LUMBERZACK said:

Checking into this topic a bit late here, but I also get the same vibration on my car above 90. Balanced many different wheels, new wheel bearings, new ball joints, arm bushings, diff mounts, new diff bearings and rebuilt trans with all new bearings. It's kinda disheartening to have brand new everything and still experience this vibration I can't get rid of. I'm surprised so many of us are reporting this issue. If it is leading to catastrophic failure, that's not comforting.


Although doubtful, let us know if the new trans solves the issue, or if the vibration ends up eating your new trans too.

I did all that and had the diff built, the diff let me get up there to 100 before vibrations

Prior to my R154 i had blown up 1 w58 under heavy load, and two others from vibrations...

I think it has to do with driveline angle, seems like that is why a two piece fixed this guy's issue. I'm curious if XM sorted all that out with the engine mounts, trans mount, and MK3 diff weld on kit... but if they did "test it" parc isn't probably big enough to get those high speeds. Not to mention the *off road use only.

 But who cares, I sold my pile months ago.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've had this discussion with a few people and like I mentioned before and I fully agree with Urrik's thoughts here. I just don't think these cars were meant to have single piece.  The ONLY person that I've heard say they've had zero vibration is you Gordo, and your car hasn't run in the the past decade.  So I'll take that with a grain of salt hah. 

Rue told me he's going to try double cardan joint this time around since he's swapping from w58 to R154 right now and has an extra 1peice laying around anyways.  Idk my peabrain thinks this will only make the problem worse, but I guess we'll know shortly.

Although interesting counterargument to our thought process could be that x7 wagons are 1piece factory. I assume this is because the way 4link works and that the diff is actually traveling up and down that the angles probably would have been too much with 2-piece as the center point is fixed more or less.  But would they not also share this vibration problem?  Or maybe it's just that they can't go fast enough to encounter this problem haha. 

Either way it sounds like whether it was an XM shaft or a 1piece from our local shops (looks like at least 3 or 4 of us here alone have tried the local option, all different shops) end result is that shitty vibration with a 1piece. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You get what you pay for...

Variables:
Tube material
Straightness
Balance
Workmanship

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a single made for my wagon from a local drive line shop and zero issues.  But then again, I made sure the diff and trans angles cancelled out when I put the irs subframe in it.

If your trans and diff angles checked out and assuming drive shaft was built and balanced properly.
 

I’d say the problem was tube diameter and wall thickness were too small for the specific length and speed the shaft spins at. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's the thing that people overlook with straight axles is driveline angle. You get that wrong and it doesn't matter who builds your driveline. You'll always have problems

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've got a 2pc and had the vibrations. Multiple sets of wheels. I don't think I've gone that fast since putting the re71rs on. I don't remember it last time I drove it. Iunno

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now

×