Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'Holset'.
Found 3 results
I know there's a holset whore on here, I seen some of the post but don't remember who it was. Iv only found a little info on these on gas engines and full spec sheets for diesel. Does anyone have first hand experience with different sizes? (Spool time, max hp per size and durability from the year ranges)
JimmyHoffa posted a topic in JZ/UZMegasquirt 3X 1JZ/1.5JZ settings, basics, etc. If you want to do this, this should get you up and running. The first things you want to do is go to http://www.DIYautotune.com and empty your bank account. I bought the following: -Megasquirt 3 unassembled kit -Megasquirt 3 eXpansion board -Mapdaddy 4 bar map sensor with barometric correction (not necessary, but I like them) -12' MS3 harness -12'MS3 eXpansion harness (there are 2 DB37 connectors, so you need the two separate harnesses, if you're a real glutton for punishment and don't really want your shit to ever run right, don't buy these) You're also going to want a good soldering iron/station, high quality flux core solder, probably a solder puller, some wick, and some small wire clippers. http://www.amazon.co.../dp/B00004W463 This is what I have, but I bought it from a friend's little brother for 23 dollars. He stole in from his highschool electronics class years before. While you're waiting for your stuff to arrive from DIYautotune, you should go to http://www.ms3efi.com and read pretty much everything. Learn how to build it, set it up, tune it, etc. Learn until you can't learn no more. Then once you get it, you'll be good to go. Build that shit. Follow the step by step instructions and build your MS3X. If you're unsure of your skills you should buy a Jimstim megasquirt stimulator kit for testing/troubleshooting purposes. It's a good investment that I've never made... The setup I used required me to completely rebuild my engine harness. To be honest, it was easier for me to start with a bare motor than to figure out what Toyota had done and then work with that. I'm running full sequential spark and fuel so I had to run individual wires to each injector vs stock with injectors paired for batch fire. I also ditched the stock igniter and coils in favor of 4-wire COP smart-coils from a Toyota Echo (Part#:90919‑02240). I got 6 nice clean ones from a local junkyard for $24 taxes in. You can find them cheap if you look hard enough. My injectors are USDM supra 550s with a custom resistor box I built using 6 x 25w 4.7ohm resistors from digikey. I had an Acura legend/vigor/some shit resistor box kicking around that I thought might work, but the value was off by almost 50% so I just spent 20 bucks on resistors, screwed them to a piece of aluminum I milled and wired it up to the connectors from the Acura pack. For crank and cam angle signals I used the stock crank and rear cam sensors. If you run wasted spark and batch fire ignition you can just use the crank signal, but for full sequential you need a cam signal for TDC reset. I used the stock coolant temp, IAT and throttle position sensors. The Idle air control valve is also fully supported by the megasquirt 3X so you can just hook it up and go. My car actually idles significantly better with the megasquirt than it did stock. Here are most of my settings. Feel free to use these as a base map/base settings to get you going IF YOU HAVE THINGS SETUP AND WIRED EXACTLY AS I DO. If you don't know what you're doing or are not sure, learn more.. If you don't want to.... you can fuck right off. If you break your car and feel like blaming me for your issues... you can fuck right off. If you ask a question and I either don't have an answer or don't want to take the time to answer you.... you can fuck right off. Basically, I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANYTHING EVER AND YOU CAN FUCK RIGHT OFF. This is a legally binding agreement. By reading past this or using this as any type of guide, you are consenting to fucking right off in case anything goes wrong. Thanks Here are my general settings. Wheel decoder/CAS settings. This is for the rear cam sensor. Always be sure to verify YOUR timing and not just assume it's fine. Engine and sequential settings This is my old AFR target table. The MS uses this as both a target for it's autotune and VE analysis features, but also as part of the injector pulse width calc. Once you have things tuned pretty well you should theoretically be able to plug in new AFR target numbers and not really need to retune the VE tables much. This was the map I started off with from someone else, I've since rescaled it for more resolution out of boost (mainly for better low-load lean cruise), made some general changes, and smoothed it for more gradual fueling. I don't have my current map on this computer. Here is an old Fuel VE table. Also based on one I got from someone else and have worked on a bit, but not my current tune. You can see the areas that have been altered in the upper RPM range/ low boost range. Again, don't have the most up to date map on this computer. The timing map I pretty much straight transcribed from Mark's. (Thanks Mark, it made a pretty big difference compared to what I had before) (ORIGINAL POST) This is mostly directed at Mark (Aphxero) and Jimmy (Bippu) since i know they know their shit, but if anyone else can help or generally feels like chiming in, feel free. I'm just getting to doing some rough road tuning on my new setup before heading to the dyno, and im looking for some advice on timing. I'm running a non-vvti 1.5JZ (non VVti 1J head, NA USDM supra 2J block with all stock internals, 1J OEM Toyota HG, holset HX35, USDM supra 550cc injectors and echo/yaris coils, running full sequential on a megasquirt 3X. I know you guys probably tend to steer clear of cheap SOBs that like megasquirts since A ) they want to get you to tune their car for beer and bbq B ) a lot of idiots think they're bright and will save some money and end up with a hackjob POS jerry rigged with telephone wire or some other janky shit, then blame the tuner when things go bad. (I'm guilty of A, but definitely not B lol) Anyway, I've got a couple people's 1JZ spark maps and am looking for some opinions/guidance on how i should massage/tweak them to suit the ~9.1:1 compression of the 1.5JZ and generally try to keep my pistons in one piece. For now im staying pretty conservative with my fueling keeping things in the mid 11s under boost etc but I'm feeling pretty unsure when it comes to fucking with the ignition maps. if anyone has a map they could send/post for comparison that would be awesome, otherwise I'll post mine in the next day or two so you'll have an idea what I'm working with. I likely wont end up runnng much more than 15 or 18psi considering i'll likely run out of fuel somewhere near there.