Jump to content

Gseventythree

OG
  • Content Count

    1683
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Gseventythree

  1. Gseventythree

    4 doors, more whores

    Hey whatup Matt!!.. Im finally back on the boards here. Your car look SICK!!!! and YES YES YES Put those Emitz on!!!! They're one of my ALL TIME FAVORITE WHEEL. . . . Love the video and the fact that you're doing your own thing. . Car looks great and thanks for rockin that SERIALNINE sticker loud n pround!! one thing though. . Keep up the good werk and lemme know if you need anothing else.!! G.
  2. Gseventythree

    SERIALNINE X8 by G.

    Hmmm.. pics will come soon of said Rim Tuck. . G.
  3. Gseventythree

    Who is SERIALNINE???

    Im curious about this COD you mention. Are you saying they charged you at your door upon deliver? All of our product is shipped prepaid and manufactured in Canada so there should be no extra or hidden charges, and I've never had anyone say they were charged more upon delivery. The X7 bushings shipped to most of the USA are around $30, so $200 (bushings) + $30 (shipping) = $230, quite a ways off from $350. Do you remember if it was shipped UPS or USPS? cuz $120 COD is crazy! G.
  4. Gseventythree

    Bros Garage Shit.

    Whatup Vance. G here.. Back in action on JZX. .
  5. Gseventythree

    Fuck FleXXX February!!!

    I have these in stock actually PM me for info. .The promo doesn't appy to them but i'll see what i can do. G.
  6. Gseventythree

    Who is SERIALNINE???

    Yup they're at my house man. . ready to grab. Or I could meet you somewhere G.
  7. Gseventythree

    Who is SERIALNINE???

    We have these coming very soon as part of a complete front end package engineered for maximum angle and adjustability. They are all compatible with stock components, but when used as a package give you maximum benefit.
  8. Gseventythree

    SERIALNINE X8 by G.

    Whatup Y'all. .Im back in action.. posting up a storm.. its DEFINITELY time for an update on whats happening to this awesome machine. . Basically 2012 is like this for my car. . -AEM Series II -Work Gnosis GS2 18x10-5 fr (225/35-18) 19x11+9 rr (265/30-19) -1000cc Injector Dynamics Injectors -25lbs -rebuilt bottom end -BC cams (undecided) -NEW AERO!!! (supersecret for now) -NEW COLOR!!! (also supersecret but it looks yummy) -STANCE GR+2's (had them on for over a year now) -ROLL CAGE -SEATS (hoping for STATUS) -SERIALNINE SUPERGANGSTER RIDICULOUSLY RAD 8/6 PISTON BRAKES. -SERIALNINE NEW SHIT THAT YOU HAVENT SEEN YET. . -LED/HID retrofit lighting front and rear. ya so basically almost all new car. . what im going for is ummmm to take everything you guys have ever seen on a cressida and CHANGE it again. . BLOW your minds, and make you buy everything so you can make your car as awesome as mine. hahah jk. but seriously.. its gonna be awesome. Here are some pics.. Last year when i sold the Varianzas. Test fitting the new rims. as you can see they're pretty fucking nutz. . 265/30-19 aint small neither. . LOOOOVEE the fit on the front.. This is with our special camber milled strut tubes. This is around -6-7 degrees. THIS IS NOT THE FINAL FIT Got camber?? Artsy shot haha Also just bought this as a daily 109,000 KM cloth interior no sunroof sport Aristo :) and yes we're making parts for them. Turbo #2 ate shit on the dyno trying to get a baseline, but for the week it was good, it hauled!! So ya. . single turbo? haha Thas it for now.. Will keep you guys up to date on the progress. . and oh ya. the Wagon is gone. G.
  9. Gseventythree

    Who is SERIALNINE???

    Also wanna send a shout out to our customers and fans who havent given up on us and believed in us throughout our absence.. And a special thanks to my homie Edub for helping out TONS and keeping us alive here on JZXP. G.
  10. Gseventythree

    Serialnine X8 Yamaha Rear Wing

    Shipping to asian region should also be $50.. where in asia are you ?
  11. VIDEO INSTALL IS COMING. . but PLEASE refer to this when getting your knuckles prepped and welded. SERIALNINE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS 1. Removing the Stock strut/knuckle assembly from the car. A. Jack up car, support securely with jackstands. Remove wheels. B. Remove protective cap for the hub center nut. This is best done withh a chisel or a sharp flat screwdriver. Tap gently rotating the hub as you go, it will eventually pop up. C. Loosen 32mm hub nut. Use a BIG breaker bar (with the Brakes on) or an impact gun. D. Remove the clip holding the Brakeline to the strut. Pull the metal part of the brake line out of the holder and tuck it close to the strut. Get a hacksaw or a cutting wheel and cut a slit through the CENTER of the tab into the hole. BE CAREFUL NOT TO CUT THE BRAKELINE!!! E. Remove the 17mm nut holding the end link to the swaybar. You will need a 5mm allen key or a pair of needlenose visegrips to hold the balljoint from rotating while you undo the nut. F. Remove the 2 17mm bolts holding the brake caliper to the strut. Hang the caliper from the brakeline junction on the inner fender using wire or string to remove strain on the brakeline. Remove brake rotor. Remove 32mm hub nut and slide off hub. G. If you have ABS, undo the connector. The wire and sensor will stay withh the strut. H. Remove the 2 17mm bolts facing upwards that go through the steering arm into the knuckle. I. LOOSEN the upper strut 21mm center nut 4 turns. DO NOT REMOVE!! This is usually under a cap. J. Remove the 3 14mm nuts for the top hat and pull out the entire strut assembly. K. Repeat for the other side. 2.Stripping the Stock strut/knuckle assembly. CAUTION!!! SPRINGS ARE UNDER TENSION, ALWAYS USE MAXIMUM SAFETY MEASURES AND COMMON SENSE. IF YOU ARE NOT CAPABLE, TAKE YOUR STRUT SOMEWHERE AND GET IT DONE PROFFESIONALLY. A. Use a spring compressor to hold the spring safely and undo the 21mm center nut holding the upper spring perch/top plate onto the strut. Take off the top plate, upper spring perch, and finally the spring. Discard. B. Loosen the Gland nut. This can be done either withh a large pipe wrench, or by putting the gland nut itself in a vise and turning the entire strut. A good way to hold the strut is either reinstall the wheel, or put the two lower 17mm bolts back on into the bottom of the knuckle (all the way) and use a jackhandle or similar between them for leverage. C. Get a drip pan or similar container, hold the strut over the container and remove the Gland nut fully. Oil should start pouring out. Give the strut rod a couple of tugs and the entire damper and internals will come out along withh more oil. THE DAMPER AND ROD ASSEMBLY WILL ALSO LEAK OIL, so be careful if you are wearing fresh new kicks. D. Take a close look a the puny size of the stock piston. Discard. E. Remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the brake backing plate on. If you have ABS one bolt from the back will also be bolted to this plate. Keep plate and bolts for later reinstallation. F. Remove 12mm bolt holding the ABS sensor and tap the sensor GENTLY withh the back of a screwdriver or similar. Remove any other associated bolts holding the ABS wire. Remove the ABS sensor and wire assembly and keep for later reinstallation. 3.Drilling and Cutting the Stock strut/knuckle assembly. The following steps are what SERIALNINE performs for an additional $200. These steps will prepare your knuckle to properly accept the SERIALNINE strut tube, and also allow the external adjuster of the SERIALNINE RCA/Remote Damper adjuster to pass through the bottom of the knuckle. THESE STEPS MUST BE FOLLOWED PRECISELY TO ENSURE YOUR SAFETY AND OPTIMUM PERFORMANCE. IF YOU FEEL UNSURE ABOUT DOING THIS, BRING YOUR ASSEMBLY AND THESE INSTRUCTIONS TO A PROFESSIONAL. A. Put the entire assembly in a vise, holding it by the strut tube withh the BOTTOM facing you. Between the two threaded holes, in the rusty middle part, you will see the BOTTOM of the existing strut tube (the convex part), and where it is welded to the cast knuckle. You will be drilling a 1.5" hole through this part. B. Center punch the CENTER of the convex part and using a 1.5" holesaw drill through the existing strut tube. Clean up the hole withh a file or flapper wheel to remove sharp edges and burrs. C. Clean the area at the junction of the stock strut tube to the top of the cast knuckle withh a wire brush or wire wheel. D. Scribe a line around the strut tube 1/4" up from the knuckle. Make sure it is straight. E. Using a cutting wheel or a hacksaw cut through the stock strut tube. Make sure it is straight. F. Using a file or grinder clean up your cut so it is as straight and close to 1/4" as possible. 4.Prepping and Welding the Stock knuckles. THESE STEPS MUST BE FOLLOWED PRECISELY TO ENSURE YOUR SAFETY AND OPTIMUM PERFORMANCE. WELDING MUST BE PERFORMED BY A PROFFESIONAL. USE COMMON SENSE, GET IT DONE PROPERLY. A. Mask the machined parts of the spindle withh masking tape. Thread the 17mm bolts back into the knuckle all the way. B. Bead blast the entire knuckle. This will ensure the BEST quality weld possible. This also gets rid of all the dirt, rust, and scale so you can give it a good coat of rust paint after. If this is not possible, you can wire wheel or sand the strut tube/knuckle junction as best you can. Blow off and clean the knuckle to prepare for welding. C. VERY IMPORTANT!!! Clamp the stock knuckle and the SERIALNINE strut tube together and MAKE SURE IT IS ABSOLUTELY STRAIGHT. The BOTTOM machined surface of the knuckle MUST BE PARALLEL withh the TOP of the SERIALNINE strut tube. If this gets welded not straight, your camber settings will differ from side to side. MAKE SURE IT IS STRAIGHT and CLAMP IT.. The top surface of the knuckle is a bare casting, these may differ between individual knuckles. DO IT RIGHT. D. WELD them together. SERIALNINE uses the TIG process withh 4130 rod. These can be TIG'ed, MIG'ed, or STICK welded. All are suitable as long as the WELDER IS A PROFFESIONAL and PROPER PENETRATION is performed. IT'S YOUR LIFE.. MAKE SURE IT IS DONE PROPERLY. E. After cooling, Paint the entire knuckle/strut tube assembly withh RUST paint or any paint suitable for use on bare metal. F. Reinstall the hub, tightening to 200lb/ft (as tight as you can withh a BIG breaker bar or withh an impact), stake the nut withh a hammer and some sort of chisel type device. Reinstall the dustcap, install the brake plate and the ABS sensor. WERD. If you're still reading this give yourself props. Get some food, a drink or have a smoke. ASSEMBLING/INSTALLING THE SERIALNINE/STANCE COILOVERS 1.ASSEMBLY A. Take your new STANCE coilovers out of the box. Admire them and look at how oversized the body is. Play withh the adjuster. If STANCE did their job your coilovers will have the SERIALNINE replaced parts missing from the kit and the bolts organized somewhere on the coilovers or in the box. B. Take your new SERIALNINE adaptor kit out of the box. Admire it. Look at how dope the parts are. Think how cool your car is gonna be withh this setup. Imagine yourself drifting at D1. C. Take the SERIALNINE front plates (the ones withh the slotted holes) and the STANCE front dampers, install the SERIALNINE plate onto the STANCE pillow mount. Loosely screw in the bolts (withh washers) into the OUTERMOST holes on the pillow mount. The hardware should already be in the pillow mount, if not, check the box. The orientation does not matter, just make sure you have them assembled facing each other. The FLAT parts of the pillow mounts will face THE CENTER of the car when installed. D. Remove STANCE rear pillow mount (it should be on there loosely). Take the SERIALNINE rear plates and install the pillow mount through the the BOTTOM. Bolt the plate together withh the supplied 5mm bolts. Tighten to 18lb/ft. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. E. Reinstall the rear pillow mount onto the rear damper. Install the 14mm nut just snug. You will need to loosen this again to adjust your height. If you cannot snug it loosen the spring perch lockring and thread the spring perch down enough to snug the upper 17mm nut. AFTER you snug the nut, thread the perch back up until the spring touches the upper plate and turn an additional ONE TURN.(two turns for GR+ PRO) LOCK the lockring up against the springperch. F. Loosen the STANCE lower mount lockring and thread the lower mount ONTO the damper all the way till it bottoms. This will be the SHORTEST damper length, or lowest height withh full travel. Make sure both lengths and spring heights match. We will start here. G. Take the STANCE/SERIALNINE front dampers and thread the STANCE lower mount lockring all the way up. Coat the inside of the SERIALNINE strut tube withh Anti-Seize or White Lithium Grease. (this is to ease adjustment) Thread the damper into your newly prepared SERIALNINE strut tubes/knuckles all the way until it bottoms. This will be the SHORTEST damper length, or lowest height withh full travel. Make sure they are the same length and the spring heights match. The front springs should have NO PRELOAD. LOCK the spring perches in place. 2.INSTALLATION FRONT A. Take your new SERIALNINE/STANCE front coilover and install, starting withh the three top studs. Thread the 14mm top nuts on and tighten to 35lb/ft. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. When installed, the SERIALNINE camber plates will be slightly angled, this gives additional caster when running maximum negative camber. REMEMBER the Flat part of the STANCE pillow mount should face the CENTER of the car. B. Install lower assemblies reverse of removal. Tighten 17mm bolts to 70lb/ft. Install cotter pin. Secure brakeline to strut body using 2 zipties. C. Install the SERIALNINE Swaybar end link through the swaybar TOWARDS the engine and through the existing hole in the lower control arm. Tighten the 19mm nut holding the stud withh a 6mm allen key. The order on the stud going through the LCA should go like this: washer facing down-bushing facing down-control arm-bushing facing up-washer facing up-nut. Tighten 13mm nut until the bushings are 3/4 their original size or flush to the washers. D. Test fit wheel to check clearance to the strut. Use spacers if needed. Anything over 4mm will require a longer studs or a bolt on spacer. USE COMMON SENSE. Check fender clearance. E. Lower car down onto blocks as it is now way to low to get off of your jack. F. Approximate your desired camber and tighten the 4 5mm camber adjustment bolts to 15lb/ft DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. When adjusting camber it is best to loosen the bolts so they are far away from the top of the plate, and only jack the car up enough to barely take the weight off of the suspension. Adjust, then tighten. This way the bolts dont scratch up the top plates during adjustment. The arrangement of these bolts is variable. Move them accordingly to accomodate your desired camber setting. REAR A. Remove wheel. B. Remove stock strut assembly. Take out the Rear seat. There are two pull tabs on the seat bottom pull those and pull up on the seat bottom till it pips out. There are two 10mm bolts holding the rear seatback in, take those off and pull the seatback UPWARDS the rear seatback should pop out.Take off parcel shelf (snaps out) Undo the three 12mm nuts from the cover plate and discard the nuts and coverplate. Take off the three 12mm nuts from the rear strut upper mount top plate while supporting the suspension. Undo the 19mm lower through-bolt holding the shock in. The trick to getting this one out is to lower the suspension as far as possible to allow the bolt to pass under the UCA. Hammer the stock shock out. It will fall, remove it from the car, Discard. C. IMPORTANT. Look closely at the lower mount that you just took the shock out of, on the REAR side there is a split washer. You will need to tap this OUTWARDS SLIGHTLY to give more room for the new damper to be installed easily. D. Take the SERIALNINE reducer bushings and install them into the STANCE lower mounts. Looking at the STANCE lower mount from the side, you will see it is offset, insert the SERIALNINE bushing through the SHORTER SIDE. It will still be offset. The damper goes into the car withh the LONGER SIDE facing REARWARD AGAINST the split washer that you just moved by tapping.. E.*OPTIONAL* Due to the large diameter of the STANCE lower mount, under extreme lowering the upper control arm contacts the body of the lower mount. It is advisable to grind,cut or hammer the upper control arm slightly (2mm) where it contacts. This is at the REARSIDE of the inner V of the control arm, closest to the balljoint . This is only required for extremely lowered cars, the metal is very soft and can easily be bent out of the way. F. Install the new SERIALNINE/STANCE rear coilover. Carefully shoot the pillow mount studs through the body. THE SERIALNINE LOGO FACES THE REAR OF THE CAR. It only goes in one way. This way if your car is has no interior, the logo can be seen through the rear window. Thread the 12mm nuts onto the studs handtight. Line up the lower mount. LONGER SIDE FACING THE BACK. ( the offset should be to the right) Raise the suspension withh a jack and shoot the 19mm bolt through fron the rear install the nut and tighten to 70lb/ft. Tighten the three 12mm upper pillow mount nuts to 18lb/ft. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. G. Install wheels. Check fender clearance. If it clears, you need wider rims. H. Lower the car onto blocks as it is WAY too low to get off your jack. 3.RIDE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT If you assembled your setup correctly, the lockrings for the lower mounts should be loose and the spring perches should be locked up tight. This will help you adjust the ride height easily, as you can turn the entire damper withh the wrenches If the perches are locked up. FRONT A. When adjusting height, ALWAYS take a measurement first. The simplest way is to measure from the spring perch to the lower mount. Any precise measurement will do. Write them down. If you are a serious Racer/Drifter keep them in a log book. LOOSEN THE 21mm CENTER nut on the STANCE's. This allows the entire damper body to turn freely. It helps if you support the suspension while threading the damper up or down. Snug the lockring onto the SERIALNINE strut tube. Tighten the 21mm Center nut on the STANCE's to 80lb/ft (as tight as you can) B. Lower the car and roll it back and forth to settle the suspension. Readjust if neccessary. C. TIGHTEN THE LOCKRING AGAINST THE STRUT TUBE AS TIGHT AS YOU CAN. this is very important on strut suspension. If they are loose your ride height will change RANDOMLY and all your measurements and setup will be gone. D.Adjust the damper, usually start at 6 clicks (GR+ PRO RACE 12/10), 10 clicks (GR+ or GR+ PRO 10/ 8 ) Readjust from there. REAR A. When adjusting height, ALWAYS take a measurement first. The simplest way is to measure from the spring perch to the lower mount. Any precise measurement will do. Write them down. If you are a serious Racer/Drifter keep them in a log book. LOOSEN THE 17mm CENTER nut on the STANCE's. This allows the entire damper body to turn freely. It helps if you support the suspension while threading the damper up or down. Snug the lockring onto the STANCE lower mount. Tighten the 17mm Center nut on the STANCE's to 40 lb/ft . B. Lower the car and roll it back and forth to settle the suspension. Readjust if neccessary. C. TIGHTEN THE LOCKRING. D. Adjust the damper Usually start at 6 clicks (GR+ PRO RACE 12/10), 10 clicks (GR+ or GR+ PRO 10/ 8 ) Readjust from there. Apply your new SERIALNINE decals ON YOUR CAR. . Dont be a pussy and put them on your rear windows or something lame like that. If you need more. . Just ask. AFTER you've finalized your ride height, GET AN ALIGNMENT. This is VERY important. Your car will feel VERY weird and actually be UNSAFE TO DRIVE withhout a proper alignment. Take your car for a drive. Dont be a HERO. Feel it out first. Make sure everything is secure and you didn't forget anything. . Take pics. . Take videos. . most of all. . ENJOY!! G. SERIALNINE products are for RACING/OFF ROAD use only. SERIALNINE accepts NO RESPONSIBILITY for Damage,loss, or harm caused by the installation of said racing parts.
  12. Gseventythree

    SERIALNINE/STANCE Full coilover kit.

    I usually start Around 10 then go up from there. But if you can't adjus it later put I to like 13 and roll with it. Lemme know whAt part u broke G.
  13. Gseventythree

    SERIALNINE/STANCE Full coilover kit.

    So the site will be up and running by next week. . But anyways .. here are the goods.. SERIALNINE is a new company dedicated to offering Top Quality High Performance Solutions for X chassis cars. All parts are developed, engineered, then tested by myself and others that actually drive their cars hard. This way the end user will benefit and be provided withh the best possible product for their vehicle. All the SERIALNINE components are CNC machined, then plated or anodized for long lasting performance and durability. I've been developing and testing a Coilover kit for the past 8 months on my X8. .It consists of a SERIALNINE adaptor kit and a STANCE full coilover . This setup uses the proven STANCE line of GR series dampers. Some of you should have friends running the GR+ or + PRO on thier S13/14. These coilovers are known in the US drifting and track racing scene as being Top Notch Gear for an affordable price. Some features of these excellent coilovers are 15 position adjustable dampening, full length and height adjustable, inverted monotube, and have oversized bodies to house large diameter pistons for more precise dampening. for more info checkout www.stancesus.com There are a few different models to choose from. . If you are looking for a street setup you can get the GR+ withh 10/8 k springs, This setup is very smooth and awesome for the street It is valved just right for a firm controlled ride. I tested this setup and I had it around 8-12 clicks on the adjuster. You can run softer or stiffer springs withh the GR+'s but you will run out of damper at 12/10 (this is what I have been drifting on) . . If you plan on doing more spirited driving IE. Drifting or Track days. . I recommend the GR+ PRO RACE, This is essentially the same damper as the GR+ save for it is valved harder. . It is actually valved for 12/10k springs. .Whereas the GR+ is valved for 9/7k springs. This will be a very competetive setup for those interested in drifting or tracking their cressida. . On either of the Dampers you can go + or - 3k in spring rate. The reason I've chosen STANCE coilovers to use for my kit is because they are VERY active in local motorsports. They are more of a grassroots company rather than a large impersonal corporate giant that never hears nor cares about the end user. STANCE works withh drifters and track racers to refine their products, and improve performance. Here's what the kit'll look like. . Im going to do an introductory price of $1900 SHIPPED to 48 states (excluding Alaska and Hawaii) withh either the GR+ or GR+ PRO RACE 12/10. . Add $200+ shipping of your knuckles for prep and welding of knuckles if you want a full bolt in kit. Otherwise you can get them prepped and welded locally. (if you're in the northwest USA I recommend Rob@FLIPSIDE CUSTOMS) If you want to purchase a COMPLETE bolt in kit from SERIALNINE there is a core charge of $350 which is refundable upon reciept and passed inspection of a useable set of knuckles The kit comes withh -2xWeld on Strut tubes -2xFront Upper Camber Plates to fit Cressida -2xRear Upper Pillow Ball Plates to fit Cressida -2xReducers for rear lower damper -2xOEM quality Swaybar endlinks withh Urethane Bushings. . -4x 11" SERIALNINE stickers (not shown) 2x Black, 2xChrome All aluminum parts are anodized Black, and all the Steel parts are Zinc plated. . The strut tubes have an unplated section at the bottom for ease of welding (no sanding and less toxic fumes. ). . This section will be painted after you weld it anyways. . The camber plates are designed to give you MAXIMUM camber allowable by the stock body . They'll give you approximately -4.5 deg. . . . The Same kit will be done for X7 very soon. . Im just doing development right now. . . The rear is quite different, but will be a full coilover as well. . It will unfortunately also be more expensive due to the added custom parts. . I will probably do a group buy for the X7 ones after the X8 ones start rolling. . Hope you like them. . Next in the works are RCA's withh bendy remote adjuster for easy damper adjustment (inverted dampers have the adjusters on the bottom and dissasembly of the steering arm/knuckle is required for adjustment on cressidas) . . Urethane Rack Bushings. . BILLET shortened, reduced ackerman steering arms for quicker steering and less scrub when drifting, PROPER X7/X8 Tension rods. . and Solid Subframe Bushings. (Have those already for X7) G.
  14. Gseventythree

    PLZ HELP!

    FUCKIN SWEET!!!!! love you guys.. Thanks again. . Sooo. . PM me ur shipping addy i'll send you something. . G.
  15. Gseventythree

    PLZ HELP!

    Hey so basically I was reading my wheel fitment guide and noticed a mistake. (it said 18" vs 19") so i proceeded to fix it. . no big right? change ONE FUCKING DIGIT, save changes. . and reload page. . WHOA!?!?!? totally fucked. . It looked like this after. . Here is a quick guide to wheel and tire fitment withh the SERIALNINE/STANCE coilovers. These are the <!--sizeo:12--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo-->RECOMMENDED<!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--> sizes for a mild Cressida. Less or more aggressive fitments are possible. If you need help, just post your Question here. I have extensive experience withh different sized wheels on cressidas all the way up to 20" so just ask. <!--sizeo:12--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo-->All <!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec-->of these sizes require you to <!--sizeo:12--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo-->Roll<!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--> the fender lip flat. The aggressive fitments require <!--sizeo:12--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo-->Pulling<!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec-->. This should not scare you. Fender rolling is a <!--sizeo:12--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo-->NORMAL<!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--> thing, it is done for safety and extra clearance. If you are running my coilovers, fender rolling should not be unfamiliar to you. Find a competent shop withh <!--sizeo:12--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo-->EXPERIENCE<!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--> rolling fenders on expensive cars. They should be able to do your car <!--sizeo:12--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo-->WITHOUT<!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--> cracking the paint. I've rolled all kinds of cars from Honda's to Benzes and my track record is around 87% no cracking ( you have to factor in shitty paintjobs and shoddy bodywork). For best results use a <!--sizeo:12--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo-->FENDER ROLLER<!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec-->, the other alternative is to use a bat or pipe of some sort. If you want minimal paint cracking <!--sizeo:12--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo-->MAKE SURE<!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--> to use a heat gun. <!--sizeo:12--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo-->-with coilovers, the<!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--> <!--sizeo:12--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo-->FRONT<!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--> <!--sizeo:12--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo-->clearance between the tire and strut is <!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--><!--sizeo:12--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo-->DECREASED<!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--> <!--sizeo:12--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo-->due to the thickness of the new strut. -IF you run your car EXTREMELY low, the collars and spring perch itself can contact the tire/wheel. -If you are running WIDER or TALLER tires than recommended, LOWER the offset accordingly, and PULL the fender more.<!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--> <!--sizeo:14--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo-->Black font <!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec-->= Full lip roll and Mild pull. <!--coloro:red--><span style="color:red"><!--/coloro--><!--sizeo:14--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo-->Red font <!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--> = Major Fender work Required.<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc--> <!--sizeo:14--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo-->Moderate height. <!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--> This height has just a tad of tire gap, and the collars are ABOVE the tire. Front. 17x9 +25 <!--coloro:Red--><span style="color:Red"><!--/coloro-->or LESS<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->, 215/40-17, 215/45-17 18x9 +25 <!--coloro:Red--><span style="color:Red"><!--/coloro-->or LESS<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->, 215/35-18, 215/40-18 (this is the perfect tire size for the front of a cressida), 225/40-18, <!--coloro:#FF0000--><span style="color:#FF0000"><!--/coloro-->235/40-18<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc--> 19x9 +25 <!--coloro:Red--><span style="color:Red"><!--/coloro-->or LESS<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->, 215/35-19, 225/35-19,<!--coloro:#FF0000--><span style="color:#FF0000"><!--/coloro-->235/35-19, 245/35-19<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc--> <!--sizeo:14--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo-->Aggressive Height.<!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--> This height tucks most of the tire depending on rims size, you will have tire tuck on 17's, and rim tuck on 19's. The collars will be BESIDE the tire/wheel and you will have spring droop withh this height. Front. <!--coloro:Red--><span style="color:Red"><!--/coloro-->17x9 +15 or LESS<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->, 215/40-17, 215/45-17, 225/35-17, <!--coloro:#FF0000--><span style="color:#FF0000"><!--/coloro-->225/45-17, 235/40-17<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc--> <!--coloro:Red--><span style="color:Red"><!--/coloro-->18x9 +15 or LESS<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->, 215/35-18, 215/40-18, <!--coloro:#FF0000--><span style="color:#FF0000"><!--/coloro-->225/40-18, 235/40-18<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc--> <!--coloro:Red--><span style="color:Red"><!--/coloro-->19x9 +15 or LESS<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->, 215/35-19, 225/35-19, <!--coloro:#FF0000--><span style="color:#FF0000"><!--/coloro-->235/35-19<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc--> <!--sizeo:12--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo-->For the rear I will just do a guide for fitments of various sizes vs clearance and required fender work. <!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--> 17x9 +25 <!--coloro:Red--><span style="color:Red"><!--/coloro-->less than +25<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->, 215/45-17, 225/45-17, 235/40-17, 245/35-17, <!--coloro:#FF0000--><span style="color:#FF0000"><!--/coloro-->245/40-17, 235/45-17, 245/45-17<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc--> 17x9.5 +30 <!--coloro:Red--><span style="color:Red"><!--/coloro-->less than +30<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->, 225/45-17, 235/40-17, 245/35-17, <!--coloro:#FF0000--><span style="color:#FF0000"><!--/coloro-->245/40-17, 235/45-17, 245/45-17<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc--> 17x10 +35 <!--coloro:Red--><span style="color:Red"><!--/coloro-->less than +35<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->, 235/40-17, 245/40-17, 245/35-17, <!--coloro:#FF0000--><span style="color:#FF0000"><!--/coloro-->245/40-17, 235/45-17, 245/45-17<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc--> 18x9 +25 <!--coloro:Red--><span style="color:Red"><!--/coloro-->less than +25<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->, 215/40-18, 225/40-18, 235/40-18, 235/35-18, 245/35-18, <!--coloro:#FF0000--><span style="color:#FF0000"><!--/coloro-->255/35-18, 245/40-18, 255/40-18<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc--> 18x9.5 +30 <!--coloro:Red--><span style="color:Red"><!--/coloro-->less than +30<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->, 215/40-18, 225/40-18, 235/40-18, 245/35-18, <!--coloro:#FF0000--><span style="color:#FF0000"><!--/coloro-->255/35-18, 265/35-18, 245/40-18, 255/40-18<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc--> <!--sizeo:12--><span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo-->The following sizes are NOT tested for COILOVER clearance on the backside at extreme lowering (full camber gain). I am running offsets in the TEENS and I have no clearance issues on the backside. <!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec--> 18x10+35 <!--coloro:Red--><span style="color:Red"><!--/coloro-->less than +35<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->, 215/40-18, 225/40-18, 235/40-18, <!--coloro:Red--><span style="color:Red"><!--/coloro-->255/35-18, 265/35-18, <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc--> 18x10.5 +40 <!--coloro:Red--><span style="color:Red"><!--/coloro-->less than +40<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->, 225/45-18, 235/40-18, <!--coloro:Red--><span style="color:Red"><!--/coloro-->255/35-18, 265/35-18<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc--> 19x9 +25 <!--coloro:Red--><span style="color:Red"><!--/coloro-->less than +25<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->, 235/35-19, 245/35-19 19x9.5 +30 <!--coloro:Red--><span style="color:Red"><!--/coloro-->less than +30<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->, 225/35-19, 235/35-19, 245/35-19, <!--coloro:Red--><span style="color:Red"><!--/coloro-->255/35-19<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc--> 19x10 +40 <!--coloro:Red--><span style="color:Red"><!--/coloro-->less than +40 <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->, 235/35-19, 245/35-19, <!--coloro:Red--><span style="color:Red"><!--/coloro-->255/35-19, 265/30-19<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc--> 19x10.5 +45 <!--coloro:Red--><span style="color:Red"><!--/coloro-->less than +45<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->, 235/4-35-19, 245/35-19, <!--coloro:Red--><span style="color:Red"><!--/coloro-->255/35-19, 265/30-19, 275/30-19<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc--> <b><!--coloro:red--><span style="color:red"><!--/coloro-->For reference, my car currently has 18x9 -7 (215/40-18 ) and 18x10 +11 (225/40-18 ) withh MAJOR fender work. The new car and new fenders are designed around 18x9.5 -5 (215/40-18 ) and 19x10.5 +15 (245/35-19) :wink: <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc--></b> <b>This is simply a guide, SERIALNINE is NOT responsible for any ill fitting, wrong offset, rubbing, tire cutting, fender damage, loss, injury, or any other problems you may incur following this guide. Individual wheel and tire styles and manufacturers will differ in ACTUAL fitments and clearances. Minor body differences (previous repairs) and camber preferences will affect clearance as well. This is only a guide. The HIGHER offsets are simply calculated and not actually tested. SERIALNINE ALWAYS makes the car fit the wheels, NOT vice versa. You gotta pay to play. G.</b> Soo... ya . . If anyone maybe had this fucking saved as text please post it up cuz honestly it took me like 3 hours to make this dope. . and i pretty much have to spend like another hour to fix it or something. . and i dont remember exactly what it looked like. . If i had the OG one I could fix this in like 15 minutes.. Anyone. . Anyone ?? Im whittling away at it at werk right now. so ya.. its gonna take a while. . G.
  16. K . .so FIRST of all Guys and Dolls.. I apologize for my absence on JZX, and the accompanying lack of communication that comes with that (if you were trying to get ahold of me via PM) Basically im making this post to address all of the concerns regarding SERIALNINE and the parts that I have or dont have and for the newbs and potential customers, a bit of history. . Short version of the story is this. . My name is Gerard de Peralta, and I am a car addict. . Ive always wanted to build cars and have my own car parts company.. Fast forward to 2006ish. . I have a Shop (KEEP PerformanceLab) and its not goin so well.. its lots of work and not much money. . at this time I started building an X7 cressida cuz of Tezuka. . and realized this was a completely untapped market. . and these cars are plentiful and cheap. . Now im a pretty seasoned fabricator and savvy at designing and engineering parts . . So im like fuckin coilovers!. . sweet. . made the first set with a used set of Kei Office coilovers. . Then i did the subframe bushings. .. . etc. etc. If you're interested you can see here http://jzxproject.com/bbs/index.php?showtopic=168&st=80 . . And from there, SERIALNINE was born. . I started small.. making small runs of parts here and there, all the while having a full time job. . I am responsible for EVERYTHING regarding SERIALNINE except for the manufacturing (machining/welding/etc. ). That includes design, testing, sourcing hardware, making posts, replying to emails, building the cars, going to drift events, talking to people at said events, making stickers, packaging, shipping, AS WELL AS accounting, bookkeeping, managing, and everythign else associated with running a small business. . I have a few people that sort of help here and there, but as far as ACTUALLY getting everything done, its all me. . Now you can imagine this is a lot of work, and it was ok in the beginning as the list of parts was small and the market was also small. . Fast forward to 2010 Cressidas are ACTUALLY popular now and SERIALNINE is the Premier company for all things Cressida. Now, seeing this as a great thing (im selling parts fairly consistently for such a niche market) I decide to try and expand a little bit to keep up with demand, as my current machinist primarily deals with BIG dollar electrical contracts, and SERIALNINE was a lower priority entity at this point. . . So I approach a few different local machinists and propose this and that. . trying to get a better break on pricing, and also getting a more consistent supply of parts on time. . Keep in mind im still funding this whole thing with my own salary WHILE ALSO building the sickest cressidas known to man. . I bounce backand forth with a couple of small guys. (cuz im a small guy still) THEN. . . I get a good response from a BIG shop that already machines parts for extremely high end tools, and they just happen to make Racecar parts for their Dragsters on the side, and the programmer is a genius and just happens to be into toyotas . . AWESOME! A deal is struck and promises are made. . Quick turnaround, excellent finishes, exacting tolerances, timely completion, potential "pull part" setup (they make lots and i only pay and take the parts as needed) ALL of the things I was looking for. . I was EXCITED. . I do a bunch of promotion, update the site, sell a bunch of product that is "on back order" with completion dates just over the horizon, im really excited for the future of SERIALNINE. . At this point Ameen is getting me awesome promotion, Kevin and I are becoming local Superstars, and things are going well. THEN. . i try to contact the dudes. . again. . and again. . then they made the parts wrong . . so lets make em agian. . then again. . etc. etc. etc. . im freaking out. . people are getting mad. . "WHERES MY SHIT?!?!" . . "IVE PAID 6 MONTHS AGO!!". . etc.. so i finally start getting parts . . short. . 18 of this (supposed to be 20) . . 37 of that (supposed to be 40) etc. . I call. . we FIGHT. . Yes literally a YELLING match with the machinist. .and i Quote "I dont give a fuck about your parts, you're not getting them. . I dont care about your fucking money, fuck you". . Yeah. . great business practices. . im fucked. .ANYWAYS. . Manage to get all the pieces. . Go to final weld and assemble them. . Had one more small issue with the welding jig for the arms. .and ran out of the rest of the normally stocked parts. .Great. . ANYWAYS. . you could imagine my dismay at this situation. . My company that i've built from the ground up, been recognised as a leader in my market, and have a solid customer base is on the verge of extinction. .AWESOME. . I take longer to reply to emails. . I stop taking orders. .im shipping what i have left. . refunding some customers. . etc. .its going down. . " in the gutter" so to speak. . NOW TO 2011. . SERIALNINE is currently working on a deal to expand to an appreciable level. . A bonafide parts manufacturer. . SLIGHTLY bigger than now, but big enough to supply properly. . When this deal goes through, we will have the FULL (current) Cressida product line available by end of May. . As well as finalizing the prototype parts we've had forever. These include, steering knuckles/angle kit, rear knuckle replacement bushing, Tension rods, and a few little things as well. . Our plans for the near future include expanding into the newer larger toyotas (GS/LS/IS) concentrating on products to make them driftable and ultra low. RECAP. . . we will know VERY soon the state of SERIALNINE. . EVERYONE with parts on order, you ARE getting your stuff regardless of what happens. . IF I cannot get you your parts, you will get a REFUND. . Id like to thank everyone for their support over the years, countless props, emails, blog entries, compliments etc. I never would've made it this far without you. . . . Special shout outs to: BRIAN of JZXPROJECT for having the best and pertty much only site going for all things JZX. . and letting me advertise and promote my products and company on his forums.. AMEEN/ROBERT/ALEX/KEVIN/ERIC and enyone else who I forgot to mention that has helped SERIALNINE in the past. . Sincerely G.
  17. K guys here it is. . Im not really into this group buy thing. .But in order to get this rolling this is what i gotta do. . I am introducing the SERIALNINE Type 1 kit. It is an exact replica of the BIG-WIN kit, and will be available for ------$800------ for the first 5 people. After the first 5 the price goes up to $1000 (still hella cheap) Here is the good part, AFTER you buy the first complete kit, any successive SAME STYLE part will only be $200. That means AFTER you bought the SERIALNINE type 1 kit and you smash your front bumper. . you only drop another $200 for another one. . Same for rear/ sides as well. . . This is NO BULLSHIT and will be done in less than 1.5 months Guaranteed. No holding on to your deposits and nothing to show for it. . These will be manufactured by a very large overseas company that ONLY makes aero. . The quality is EXACTLY the same as the original, finish and all. These guys make everything under the sun out of fiberglass or carbon (yes it is possible) including those HUGE circle track wings you see on sprintcars or midgets or whatever, that very poplular c4-c5 vette conversion all over ebay, Carbon hoods, trunks, FULL 350Z kits etc.. I can attest to the quality, fit, and finish of these parts being on par withh the original. I've personally fitted JDM aero and this stuff is identical to say Final Konnexion/Origin etc. . MUCH better than D-max but not as good a C-West. .(which fuckin fits EXACYLY like stock. . EXACTLY) Turns out I have a very good hookup locally to replicate kits and parts. . If this goes well, then I will do other parts including hoods/trunks (yes carbon too). BUT not until THIS one is done and these kits are selling. But basically the first 5 people to paypal a $500 deposit to gerard@serialnine.com will get this for the ----$800----. . (the rest payable upon arrival of the kits here @ SERIALNINE) After that . . tough luck. . Here are some pics. . Here are some more pics to help withh your opinions. . . This car is beautiful . . Too bad the pics are so small. . This car has the SIDESKIRTS ONLY .. just to give you a good idea of the overall height of them. .. You can run your car withh tire tuck but the kit still has clearance. . This is for a better look at the REAR BUMPER kit. . Both of the FARTHER cars have it. Now is the time to stop complaining about the lack of aero for X8's. . G.
  18. Gseventythree

    SERIALNINE AERO 1 PIECE REAR BUMPER IS DONE!!!!

    Order will be in soon.. I dont wanna do any pre orders anymore. . WHEN i have te stuff in stock i'll sell it. . just working on the consistency of deliveries etc.. Coming early may is as close as i can get.. G.
  19. how much did you raise it form the setting in my car ? G.
  20. Gseventythree

    SERIALNINE AERO 1 PIECE REAR BUMPER IS DONE!!!!

    Hey Ya'll.. New AERO shipment coming in EARLY MAY. . INCLUDING REAR TRUNK SPOILER and URAS style Hood Vent. . G.
  21. Gseventythree

    SERIALNINE new shit

    K so I just thought id let you guys in on whats new with SERIALNINE.. would post it on the blog .. but this is a tighter community. and The site is getting redone anyways. . So here in point form is whats up @ S9 TEAM -Putting together a Drift Team of sorts. . So far its goin pretty well. . Basically trying to expand the Grip of SERIALNINE across the world. . Team USA so far consists of . . -Ameen alignment what ? Rizvi X8 -Rob grinder Turnbow Reyes X7 Team Canada -Cam ebrakeentry Klein X8 -Kevin Motherfuckin PetersEn X7 -Matt Indecisive Petersen X8 -G SedanKing de Peralta X8 Team Australia -Pending a dude named Troy Gay. . This is his vid. . He Presses the go pedal PROPER. Needs some help in the style department. . but from what hes sent me he's solid. . And I NEED peeps in Aus. Thas it for now. . Im pretty happy with This so far. . and Im doing all I can to make shit happen for them So they can Dominate the world of 240's and make me rich. . (lol) PARTS -Doing Arms and shit. . All heim jointed Adjustable IN-SITU . . All steel construction, Gold ZINC plated with black anodized spacers. .+or- 10mm so like insanely adjustable camber. . Alsoworking on something ULTRADOPE for the upper. . for guys that run Retardedlytoowideneedmanycamberstofit rims on the street then need to switch to some notsocrazyrimsfordriftingsotireslastlongerthanonelap stuff. . so you can QUICKLY and REPEATEDLY adjust a certain amount of camber only. . Ameen will be the first to Rock the arms for Pro-Am . . followed by the rest of the S9 crew. . . then everyone else. -X7 coilovers are being tested as we speak. . prices are TBD and will be on the new site. . - Site is being revamped for more useability and funtionality. . We'll be able to change stuff more often and keep it fresh and clean awl da taimmm. . . -FRP Hood is in development. . CRESSIDA only . . . Target price is around $500 and should be like 30 lbs lighter than stock. (hopefully 80) -Gonna start getting into S-chassis parts. u know. . arms. . coilovers. . etc. . like. . for sure. . -Tension rods are SOOO fuckin close. .but they arent perfect yet. . Ill be @ irwindale for the Pro-Am FD finals. . so if anyone is gonna be there. . Holla!!. . Thas it for now. . I might have forgotten some shit. . liek imma dyno my car @ 19lbs. . Oh ya. .and. . DubStep and Dirty South Rule All. . G.
  22. Gseventythree

    SERIALNINE X8 COILOVERS FOR SALE!!!!!!!

    SOLDDDDD!!!!!! G.
  23. As the title states.. Im selling the coilovers out of my car. . Details are. . SERAILNINE/STANCE D coilovers ALREADY TIG WELDED TO KNUCKLES Spring rates are 12/10/11k (comes with extra set of 10k rears) Age is approx 2 years, and mileage is approx 1200km As you guys know i dont drive my car much except for events and the occational street jaunt.. I only insured my car for three months this year and only actually drove it for 1 and a half. .as my other daily was insured at the same time. . Last year the car was under the knife for most of the year simply sitting in the shop. . Basically only driven on weekends and at drift events.. They are in excellent condition as the car is garaged and barely ever driven in the rain. . . They are setup exactly as i have them on my car. . Already TIG welded to a good set of knuckles is a plus as this makes them a complete bolt in. . They have no leaks or anything like that.. they are in perfectly good condition and I wouldn't be selling them except i got an offer i CANNOT refuse and being the SERIALNINE car I need to change it up a lil for 2011. . so. .here they go. . Other than that there is not much to say. . Buy em!! Price is . . $1400+shipping or you can come pick em up. . G.
  24. Gseventythree

    SERIALNINE X8 COILOVERS FOR SALE!!!!!!!

    Shipped to calgary would be quite cheap as i can ship through my work. . Say like $80 Funds are in US though so take that into consideration. . G. Keiren sit tight I have an Email for you. .
  25. Gseventythree

    SERIALNINE X8 by G.

    WOW holy simplicity and shit. . This is not as flashy for sure.. but definately easy to use. . But i remember talking to you on FB and you said there were threee skins to choose from ? LOL i feel like we're on Clublexus hahah. . G.
×