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shlammed

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Everything posted by shlammed

  1. have to pull it out of your ass first.
  2. log manifold is more tangible and worthwhile gains. especially so with the more power you run.
  3. I don't discriminate. If someone asked for it I would do it. I just wouldn't put a tag on it. If I were to describe an aesthetic it's asymmetrical and minimalistic. I like to have a little flare to the design (asymmetrical) and as tight of packaging as possible with as few bends as possible (minimalistic). I don't shoot for perfectly equal length unless requested. That would mean searching for the last 0.1% and very few people actually would notice what 1-3hp feels like from a near equal length to true equal length designs. Here is my latest manifold I threw together for u homos
  4. Lots of room for activities.... Turbo is an inch and a half from the frame rails at the closest spot for those who like to complain. my box of tubes was delivered today. now i can start. -a 2.5" 45degree elbow will point towards the rear right corner of the car putting the collector close to the strut tower. -similar runner configuration to the last manifold i made. -turbo is a bit more forward and a bit higher to allow the 3" intake pipe to run level vertically with the frame rail before going through the ABS opening for the air filter. -Wastegate is going on the 2.5" elbow to give the best boost control. Jig is made, but it doesnt look like much so no photos for you. couple peices of channel and one of the turbo flanges tacked to it.
  5. HA! you build one and I will build one and we will compare.
  6. Dual slips are not to be able to disassemble the manifold but to add stress relief. There is no intention to build it to dual slip into individual pieces.
  7. If I ran every manifold I made for a good period I would never be able to sell new things. I know what you mean and my last projects I used my fabrication on. Now I use the same product and proper technique to ensure the end user has no issues. In the off chance there is an issue I work with the person to fix and improve design. That's only been required once from a miata user that had a bad tune and the materials themselfs failed before the welds did. Not even in the haz, straight up a cast elbow cracked lengthwise. But he was doing 3h enduros on his "safe" tune that killed 3 hotsides before mine that outlasted anyone else that he ran. New runner layouts don't require a test unless your making 5 foot long pipes or a change in material. Which is what I'm doing with my car now. Dual slip fits on each runner with 1-5/8"X1/16" stainless tube will make a new and interesting manifold. It's nice working with thin wall because of the radius options out there but I'm not convinced of durability. So I'm using that to test before I offer a solution in that. Like I mentioned I do take constructive comments to the drawing board/bench/testing but I think what your asking is a little outrageous, and it's a standard in mid to high level products.
  8. This isn't my first car guys. This isn't my first manifold guys. What testing protocol do you use for your manifolds? Im not trying to compete with China at all. What I see is $100 manifold option and a $1200-1700 option. Consider "new" parts only since the used market pricing is so hit or miss. In my experience there are a lot of kids out there trying to do a somewhat good build and want quality but don't need a 25lb thick walled pipe manifold that has equal lengths but would never spend $1200+.... I think there is a market there for a middle ground say 700-800$ and have been playing with designs that reduce weld time, materials but make a quality piece that will still perform all while being profitable and desireable. I haven't shared that in a while but its something that's on my radar when im not busy. Im not building things for people that I wouldn't use myself and I would never skimp on a detail regardless of who the end user is. This thread is fucked with more than jibberish, there is a rebuttal after ever time I post content.
  9. Inversely, it appears that my only chance of you washing away along with your negativity has nearly come and gone. Your influence on others is likely limited to your place of work, this forum and likely the working girl you get to have mental breakdowns with once a month so the world being a better place is probably a stretch in your case. I will keep-on keeping-on brah, if you want to be constructive - I listen. Some of the dumb ideas I have on here are ideas that I want to try out. the dual diameter 4-1 collector was a thought that I had for example to be able to make a cheaper manifold option for those who want to upgrade but not spend $1200-1800 on a manifold. The idea isn't totally gone because I think there is a market for sub $1k pipe manifolds that are more reliable than the $100 china manifolds since there is really no middle ground. The amount of welding/materials, etc you would have to think outside of the box to make some cash with a 6 cylinder manifold. Log manifolds would never sell for any kind of a profit because you would be back competing with the china manifold.
  10. This one in particular wasn't much of a profit piece. I started it for myself and once I partially welded it, lost interest in making horsepower that would make the car basically a highwall pull only car. I probably made enough to buy materials to make my new thin wall one without resorting to shitty china thin wall metal. If I were to do another as a commission piece it would be more expensive and more in line with future-fab. Granted his appear to be great manifolds, someone would have to want something unique such as the manifold I just finished to make it worthwhile for them. Bottom mount, internal gate t3 manifold for 1jzvvti - no one makes that until now. If the end-user has issues with it I will take care of it, Im not china and half of the appeal of getting a custom piece made is the relationship you develop with someone along the way. You chat, share photos, experiences etc both before the manifold is made and I welcome the same from the end users. That's why I do this and what makes it enjoyable. If I need to modify the manifold or clean it up after a season of heavy track use for inspection that's cool.
  11. I'm sure they will post at some point their pile of untried pipe elbows.
  12. Your conclusions and mine differ. It will be a perfect street turbo. How much power and do you need? This ultra-turbo should make the same rpm powerband as a stock ct15 but with an additional 150-200 ftlbs
  13. https://www.turbos.borgwarner.com/files/pdf/dimensional_reference/efr/EFR%207163-F(v).pdf The 7163 comes with a 2.5 inlet. basically the same housing for Motorsport just omit the BPV and the ebc solenoid bracket. I ran some test numbers in the BorgWarner Matchbot before i grabbed the turbo and 21- 23psi @7,500rpm engine speed is roughly where i will max out the CFM of the turbo while keeping it together. Alternatively, i can run 25-26psi to 7k and taper boost to 21psi after that if i feel i need more juice... much like how a performance OE car is setup.
  14. O hey girls, this thing turnt out ok after all. Next one will make Gordo more happy - oh wait, probably not. HellaFabrication Bottom Mount 1jzVVTI T3 Manifold by HellaFab Fabrication, on Flickr HellaFabrication Bottom Mount 1jzVVTI T3 Manifold by HellaFab Fabrication, on Flickr Thanks JZXP for finding me a client.
  15. shlammed

    WTB X80 Parking Brake

    probably lost in the great internet crash of 2017 known as photobucket death.
  16. The turbo is a 7163 so yes I have compressor maps. It's the same size as a normal 7163 but with housings that don't use all of the special efr stuff like iwg and bov
  17. The efr series turbos aren't cheap $1800usd vs $700 for an sxe turbo. Turbo speed isn't because turbo is the wrong size. The 7163 should spool quickly And it has the capacity for what my original goal was (before I wanted a highway car at 800hp) with 500hp. I fit the theoretical efficiency plot up to 7500rpm at 23psi but theory and real life don't always correlate - so I'm going to measure turbo speed. Turbine outlet is for a 3" tube buttwelded. I have the flanges from cnc now but posting from my phone and can't grab bbcode from Imgur on it. Machinist made my turbo inlet in 2 pieces. That's fine. If anyone needs an efr Motorsport flange set I have extras.
  18. oh, yeah I honestly don't care where it came from. what I have is not something I can buy a flange for, so I took it to someone who can make (and as of typing this, has made) flanges. I was told it was an indy variant of the motorsports turbos. it has the cast aluminum center housing, thin walled turbine and compressor housing and proprietary flanges. from what I understand its just the housings that make it motorsports but there isn't a whole ton of specs on these turbos - they are a different PN on the ID tag. you can get a standard 7163 EFR now and the center being aluminum is either standard or optional. I do need to find an EFR speed sensor though... it would be good to have since a 2.5L engine should be able to max the turbo speed pretty easy and the speed sensor port is already drilled.
  19. gordo, the 1.3mm wall is the inside of the turbo to match the ID/OD where the restrictor goes on with the indy series. the wall thickness outside of the turbo is 1.6mm to match standard 1/16" wall tube that everyone uses for charge piping. not sure why its hard to believe its an indy motorsports turbo. they sell them off regularly at that level of motorsport - similar to how you can get NASCAR takeoff parts easily. if you check ebay there have been a few of these turbos on there in the last 6 months that have come off the Penske cars.
  20. The place I'm using was setup for a local aerospace project and now that the project is done they have taken on outside work. So the really odd, 1 off parts are literally their thing. The machinist seems pretty cool and said he likes this stuff.... not sure if that is true or in jest because its actually a headache and Im making a pain in the ass project for him.... probably both - he seems to have a dry humor like I do. I was originally planning to just use a flat laser cut flange and weld a concentric to it - but I mentioned that to this guy and he said that we can do it all as 1 part and quickly... so after chatting this is where I am.
  21. 57.5mm ID with ~1.3mm wall, so roughly 60.1mm OD. I let the machinist do the fine measuring there because my measuring tools are much less accurate than what he has. I just put my thoughts on paper to discuss with the machinist to let him do his thing and so we can agree on a profile. This is the inlet to the compressor of the turbo, FWIW. you can see the stepped profile in the inlet of the turbo in this photo.
  22. The turbo doesn't use a flange that is readily available, its a motorsports turbo that comes off of an Indy car and they use proprietary vband profiles. If I was able to buy one I would have. through my internet searching there was one guy who was reselling these used turbos that said he has a cad file and is making them for sale but when I messaged him it sounded like he was full of shit and after a week or two of asking with a "going to check tomorrow" that's all I needed to go and have them done on my own, locally. Im impressed with the machinist at the new place. Being able to set a deadline and meet it is nice, the other machine shop I used would still be doing other shit and saying next week sometime like a broken record. The inlet flange that was designed is pushing the limits of the material choice in terms of wall thickness and overall length so its exciting to see what these high tech machines can do. FWIW, the part is roughly 2" long in aluminum where the wall thickness is ~1.3mm(red) and 1.65mm wall (green) with a flange plopped in the middle and a high radius taper from 57.5mm to 72.65mm for a buttweld to 3" tube. On the motorsports turbo this is where they put the restrictor but being that I dont care for that and im not in a restricted class, This is the best solution.
  23. Back from vacation, checked in on the new machinist. He made aluminum flanges for me to approve before going into final parts out of stainless. new MV-R wastegate came in from Billyhoo, one of the latest miata manifolds i made was sold with the black used mv-r. Playing with some ideas for the new manifold as i finish weld the sold manifold with a new t3 turbo flange to replace the TiAL vband flange.
  24. Some pedal comparisons. 350z vs x8 08-15 STI vs x8 The Z pedal will bolt right on. The arm is totally wrong, but the pivots are in the same location when bolted on, so a chop and weld of the cressida pedal lower arm to the 350z upper arm will work perfectly. The Z pedal has big springs and feels closer to a real cable pedal unit as well. The STI is a nice compact unit though and will fit most cars.
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