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LUMBERZACK

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Everything posted by LUMBERZACK

  1. LUMBERZACK

    '91 Cressida at local junkyard - anyone want anything?

    Most pick n pulls only leave a car on the dismantle lot for 2 weeks tops before they scrap them; unless it's a popular car worth keeping (I'll give you a hint, it wouldn't be a Cressida). I'd doubt it's still there.
  2. LUMBERZACK

    Bottomless money pit X100

    Well, in a few years this thing will probably be worth $40k considering the trend of current pricing. Even if it's a shelf in your garage.
  3. What's up dad fuckers? You've made it this far, you might as well continue reading. This will be my piss poor attempt at a mediocre build thread. Be forewarned, you most likely won't find any groundbreaking discoveries in this thread. This will likely be your run of the mill standard 2JZ-GTE swapped X8. I plan on doing cool shit and tailoring the car to my style, but I won't be doing anything extraordinary such as: 4-link rear end, highest hp Cressida, ultra drift star, chop top, cressi-truck, or any other outlandish idea you can think of. This is not to say you won't find enjoyment from this build thread, because I know I will. Background: My name is Zack, a recent university graduate residing in Arizona. I come from a background heavily consisting of Subarus. My first car was a Subaru STi that I have driven the last 7 years and I still own. I picked up my 1990 Cressida two years ago as a daily driver that I knew I would begin to modify. Subaru parts are very pricey, so I bought the Cressida as a cheaper way to feed my fix for modifying cars. In the 2 years I have owned the Cressida, I have accomplished quite a list of things that I didn't envision doing over this period of time. This was all due to unforeseen circumstances that lead me to forego the aforementioned expenditures. I purchased the Cressida as a rough car that needed TLC, but had plenty of potential, in my eyes. It didn't start, I was told it needed a starter, a clutch, and a battery. I sent the guy the money, he gave me the paperwork and keys, and I had a tow truck arranged to drop the Cressida off at my house. Parts list as of 03/31/19: Engine 1997 JZS161 VVT-i 2JZ-GTE ECTS-i Link G4+ Xtreme ECU Borg Warner S257sx-e 1.0 A/R T4 twinscroll Future Fab twinscroll T4 manifold Tial MVS 38mm external wastegate (x2 conspiracy theory) Tial QR BPV Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer 840801 NGK (4589) IFR6T-11 laser iridium spark plug Panic wire harness to GS300 ECU box GM IAT sensor 1994 MK4 Supra water temp sender XM S10 25" Power steering line XM JZ/Kouki engine bracket XM engine mount Custom straight piped turboback to a HKS Hi-Power muffler w/ Ti tip (34005-FK001) OEM Toyota MK4 Supra throttle cable K&N 3" pod air intake Driftmotion universal intercooler kit Driftmotion pulley kit for alternator/power steering/water pump SC300 2jz Denso A/C compressor (88320-24120) w/ 7M compressor manifold Dayco poly-rib 2JZ serpentine belt w/ power steering and a/c 2JZ timing belt OEM Toyota MK4 Supra mechanical water pump (16100-49847) OEM Toyota thermostat Greddy magnetic oil drain plug Koyorad N-Flo aluminum radiator for JZX100 IS300 radiator fans/shroud & coolant reservoir OEM Toyota seals (cam/water pump/VVTi cam gear/rear main/front main) GSC Viton Valve seals Greddy water temp sensor attachment Blitz Oil sensor attachment sandwich plate MK4 Supra check valve for brake booster IS300 Power steering pump Chasebays power steering reservoir PHR power steering pump AN conversion fitting Power steering AN conversion OEM coil pack connector plugs OEM Toyota exhaust gasket AZ Performance AN oil drain flange Denso Narrowband sensor conversion for Aristo OEM VVT-i oil control valve Fuel Fuelab adjustable fuel pressure regulator Radium fuel rail Radium fuel pulse damper Deatschwerks Bosch EV14 1050cc injectors Deatschwerks 300 fuel pump Earl's hard line to AN-fitting adapter Earl's fuel filter Russel nylon braided fuel line with AN-fittings Driveline MK3 R154 Transmission Driftmotion 1-2, 3-4, 5-R hard anodized billet shift forks Marlin Crawler R154 thrust washer Marlin Crawler R154 billet bearing retainer plate R154 Nachi bearing kit OEM Toyota R154 shift synchros OS Giken TR2CD twin disk & flywheel OS Giken movement alteration kit OS Giken JZ flywheel bolts Nachi Pilot Bearing OEM Toyota JZ/R bellhousing (31111-14111) OEM Toyota Speedo cable and cable elbow XM series 2 clutch line 53" XM JZ/R one-piece driveshaft XM R154 transmission mount 3.2 qts Redline MT-90 NSK Wheel Bearings Differential MK3 Supra differential LSD Rebuilt by Ken Francisco of GearInstalls Weir stage 2 max-grip kit Weir solid pinion spacer 3.9 ratio ring and pinion OEM Toyota diff seals and Koyo bearings OEM Toyota diff breather check valve OEM Toyota magnetic drain plugs and crush washers 1.2L Motul 75w-90 synthetic gear oil w/ LSD additive XM diff conversion kit (modified by Marc at BuildRadStuff) XM rear subframe reinforcement plate Suspension Fortune Auto 500 Gen 7 coilovers. 20mm shorter shock bodies. 6" Swift springs. 15k Front/ 10k Rear. Fortune Auto LCA-mount conversion front endllinks XM adjustable rear arms XM front tension rod bushings XM rear lower pillow balls XM rear traction rod pillow balls XM RUCA bushings XM Rear subframe bushings MR2 SW20 18mm front sway bar repurposed for rear sway bar Xcessive heim endlinks XM steering rack bushings + x7 conversion MX73 steering rack 20mm forward steering rack relocation Proforged MX83 driver side inner tie rods +20mm extended front LCAs Toyota Crown Comfort Taxi steering knuckles Toyota Tacoma ball joint in RUCA. Brakes Sumitomo 300zx 300mm aluminum 4-pots front. Standard pads and rotors StopTech Braided SS brake lines Project Mu D1 spec e-brake shoes Exterior Custom two-tone paint scheme (Champagne/Bronze) Black side mirrors and door frames R-M Diamont Base Coat SPI Universal Clear Coat Shaved radio antenna Engine bay sprayed champagne with sahara gold flake (0.015) Custom bash bars F/R made specifically for BIG☆WIN kit Authentic BIG☆WIN JZX81 Mark II Type-SP F/B body kit JZX100 turn winkers GX81 Mark II sedan headlights with integrated fog lights. GX81 Mark II sedan grille Australian MX83 series 2 corner lights Australian MX83 series 1 boot lock Australian MX83 chrome door handles Rickyy's DM aero replica roof wing SerialNine Type-1 rear bumper SerialNine Yamaha Wing Sylvania LED bulbs R33 Nissan GT-R wheels 17x9 +30 / Rays 57CR Bronze II 17x9 +22 Achilles ATR Sport 2 215/45R17 Interior Defi BF-Advanced controller and gauges (Turbo, Water Temp, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure) AEM X-series 30-0300 A/FR gauge MK3 Supra brake pedal MK3 Supra clutch pedal w/ reservoir Tom's steering wheel w/ Tom's horn button Works Bell Toshiking edition quick release Bride Zeta 3 Japan (black suede/ super aramid carbon shell) Bride FO seat rail (MX83/JZX81) TRD Sports AE86 option reclining bucket seat w/ custom bracket MOONEYES custom velour dashboard mat Pioneer headunit Pioneer speakers Sylvania LED bulbs throughout Clear door markers Garage Moon Power HKS-style floor mats Toyota Starlet fog light switch to control GX81 fogs. (Kit made by 'Boristhecat') Battery relocated to trunk w/ circuit breaker. (Support bracket made by Marc @ Build Rad Stuff w/ ICT Billet Optima battery tray) JZX81 spin turn drift knob Progress pictures to follow..
  4. LUMBERZACK

    Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia

    @lucas Thank you so much dude! I really appreciate it. I'm hoping to add a few more little gold touches here and there to accent the handles, but there's definitely a fine line with gold where it can get tacky fast. Haha.
  5. LUMBERZACK

    x3 oyaji wagon

    LMAO there it is.
  6. LUMBERZACK

    New Look / Same Poor Taste

    Checking into this topic a bit late here, but I also get the same vibration on my car above 90. Balanced many different wheels, new wheel bearings, new ball joints, arm bushings, diff mounts, new diff bearings and rebuilt trans with all new bearings. It's kinda disheartening to have brand new everything and still experience this vibration I can't get rid of. I'm surprised so many of us are reporting this issue. If it is leading to catastrophic failure, that's not comforting. Although doubtful, let us know if the new trans solves the issue, or if the vibration ends up eating your new trans too.
  7. LUMBERZACK

    x3 oyaji wagon

    Ahhh, THAT H-town. Yeah, there's Houston, and then there's HOUSTON.
  8. LUMBERZACK

    x3 oyaji wagon

    So rad having an x3 still chugging along strong. Why did it take 10 hours? Traffic?
  9. LUMBERZACK

    Tuner4life's 1991 Cressida Drift Build

    Hoping life quality improves for you buddy. Shit sounds rough, but I commend you for pushing through it and getting out there to keep your mind off of shit. 2020 has been such a year and I'm not even surprised at the increase in suicide and domestic violence cases. It's saddening. Looks like you had good time driving though, that's rad!
  10. LUMBERZACK

    Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia

    @battleaxe Maybe I haven't announced it officially, but the Cressida is no longer my daily. I now have a company truck that I drive. The Cressida just gets driven on the weekends to friend's houses and shit, just ready for a drift event. Yeah, I'd never run front toe on a daily, especially 1/8" lol. Thanks homie! We're definitely taking our time on the bumper so I'm hoping for great results! I like a lot of wheels and I kept my eyes open for Chrome Work XC8's, Model 5's, Advan T6, AVS Model 6, GramLight 57Pros...well pretty much any early 00's wheel in chrome and the market right now for '90's-'00's japanese car parts is fucking ridiculous. Parts aren't littered over yaj like they once were and the parts that are listed are 3x the usual price. Same with the local marketplace even. It was actually pure fate that I got a second set of WMB XT7's for a great price. @bigtoepfer Totally man. I'm glad I have a company truck now, because I've gone through 2 windshields in 7 months. The company has full-coverage and since it's a common-ass F-150, I just call the mobile guy and he replaces the window same day at my house. Super convenient. What's crazy to me is, I've imported multiple sets of glass headlights from Japan and the glass is pristine on them, even being 30 years old. After 3 months in Arizona, they'll be pitted and cracked. Such a disappointment, which is why I use Lamin-X film on my headlights and they look perfect. Thank you for the compliments!
  11. LUMBERZACK

    Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia

    Not much to update this time around, but I'm bored and have some free time to post here. Windshield glass doesn't last long in Arizona before it becomes littered with rock chips and has more crack than a Circle K parking lot. So I had my buddy install a freshy for me. Windshield coverage and next day install is a huge benefit over owning and driving a JDM import. I began noticing that my rear wheels had a bit of play in them when I grabbed onto them. I immediately thought it was the wheel bearings or ball joints, but given that I replaced those 1.5 year ago. I checked other culprits and found that my Xcessive poly joints had a fair amount of play in them. Mind you I have over 4 years and 40k miles, with a couple dozen drift events on these. I think they served me well. So I ordered new joints. One thing I noticed in the picture below, was the old ones (top) have zerk fittings, whereas the new ones (bottom) do not. They're clearly from a different manufacturer, but hopefully these last as long. It's finally time to show my rear bumper some love since it is on its last leg. My buddy who is doing the repair is taking the opportunity to address many of the fitment issues the bumper has had its whole life. Hopefully it will fit much cleaner than previous. We're hoping to raise it up some as well to minimize how much it drags and gets caught on shit. I had a local guy come work his magic on my alignment. He is mobile and comes to your house to do your alignment, granted you have a garage he can work it. He brings a digital camber gauge and toe plates and spends as much time as he needs to to set it up perfectly. I think he was at my house for the better part of 6 hours painstakingly making sure everything was perfect. My final specs are: Front: -5.7 Camber, 1/8 Toe out Rear: -0.5 Camber, 1/8 Toe in The car drives fantastic. The steering wheel is level and it drives as straight as an arrow. Well worth the money. I don't have a picture of him doing the alignment, but here's a picture of my post-alignment fitment. Also, I wanted to make sure that I didn't miss out on the limited run gold work emotion center caps, so I bought a second set for my drift spares. Now my wheels will always match. I also got new valve stems because the seal on all of mine are starting to dry rot. That's it for now. My bumper is not finished yet. I have a few other things I'm working on as well, but I don't have any pictures, so we'll wait until the next post.
  12. LUMBERZACK

    Current working's X8 Knuckles

    God I'm so hype on this. I have absolutely no need for it, but will probably end up buying for the sole reason of supporting a company that finally cared enough to release something for these stupid cars. My biggest question is, given that I drive my car A LOT, longevity is a huge determining factor for me. The main lower ball joint on the LCA looks welded in place. Are the heims serviceable? Does Acostal use universal joints or will I have to contact Acostal any time the joints start to wear out?
  13. LUMBERZACK

    Kyle Anson's Cresshita Build Thread

    @ROBAPHENT Well now you can post an update about those Acostal front arms for X8. I'm super pumped, but I have some questions about em. @AcidTrip I'm stoked for you bud! Good to finally see you throw on some quality parts! :* Now send me a new Christmas card.
  14. LUMBERZACK

    Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia

    Thanks dudes! There's so many ideas in my head of things like this I want to do, but I just got to get over the money hurdle. Haha. I've got time though, so this stuff will continue. Honestly, they're always quite a bitch, but my best advice is removing the bolt and screws that hold the lock actuator and get it out of the way and use a 1/4" ratchet with a 6" extension and a swivel head for the socket is the best bet at getting to the bolt for the handle. The little plastic retainer clips for the rods are always a pain too. lol. small but strong fingers is the recipe. Thanks dude! If you're in Cali, let me know what they are charging for this work, because in AZ, it's $$$$
  15. LUMBERZACK

    Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia

    Thanks guys! @Urrik most people associate with El Chapo or some Mexican drug cartel, but I’ll accept your creativity lol.
  16. LUMBERZACK

    Sleeper MX83 build

    @battleaxe This 100%. Yes, seeing that first shot of base will totally reignite the motivation, I promise. If you’re getting bad results, just focus on spraying sealer on one part that is quick and easy to fix until your settings are solid. For instance, a door. Don’t practice on the most complex canvas with all those curves. Also when you said 30psi, I immediately thought your pressure is too high. Especially with something as diluted as sealer. Try 20psi. You’ll get it.
  17. LUMBERZACK

    New Look / Same Poor Taste

    JEEZE that's cool.
  18. LUMBERZACK

    Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia

    All this gold got my creative juices flowing. My car has become pretty flashy with all the chrome and gold accents. It reminded me of the lowriders I would see with my father in-law. He was always into the lowrider scene and we would go to lowrider shows and I would see champagne Impalas with gold bumpers and accents and it really sparked an idea. So I got to work. I dug up my OEM painted door handles and started stripping the paint. So I got them to a pretty decent mirror polish using sandpaper, a dremel with scotchbrite wheels, and polishing wheels with jeweler's rouge. Next I hit up a homie that has been modifying lowriders since the 80's to work his magic. To further accentuate the roses, he then engraved diamond cut around the edges of the handles and roughed up the surface surrounding the roses. Seeing them in person in this condition made me want to stop right here as they looked so killer, but these door handles are made of pot metal which would rust, tarnish, etc. Also they would require regular polishing which would wear away at the finish over time, so plating was the necessary next step. I fought myself back and forth deciding whether to chrome plate my handles of gold plate them. Chrome would've been a safe decision since I already knew it would flow with the rest of my car and the chrome accents, but I was reluctant since having chrome would just mean I'd be right back where I was prior and they would easily be overlooked. However with gold, it is not something you commonly see and the vibrancy would automatically pull the attention of someone walking by ultimately capturing them into discovering the engraving. Also what cartel wouldn't gold plate their custom engraved desert eagle? I said fuck it. Copper plating first. I'm aware this type is not everyone's cup of tea, but the artwork and detail is hard not to appreciate. I was very nervous going with gold since it could really break the look of the car, but honestly, I'm very surprised with how well it works. Obviously a little more gold accent would help, but gold can get gaudy and tacky fast. I'll leave it as is for a while. I hope you guys like it. Criticism is always welcome and expected, but come correct. lol
  19. LUMBERZACK

    Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia

    Since I've never really had a wheel with cool center caps, I splurged and bought these. My assumption was that the gold caps would kinda compliment the gold logos on my car, but the color ended up being a bit more yellow than expected. So then to compliment the center caps, I decided to change the body molding trim to gold as well. Gold trim is a vanishing option, so getting my hands on some was a little bit of a hunt. Many of these companies are only producing chrome and black trim, so I bought a lot extra.
  20. LUMBERZACK

    Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia

    So to kick off this next update, lets talk about wheels. Running the R33's was cool as a beginner drifter, since I got them for a steal and they are good spec and look okay for an OEM wheel. With that said, my car did not look aggressive and I was never truly happy with the look. I bought the Rays Gramlights 57CR as a possible step up from the R33's. Even though I think they looked better, it still didn't hit right with me. I then came to realize, a lot of it had to do with my ride height, tire size, wheel diameter, and wheel color. I was then on the hunt for some 18's. That's when my friend and I were eating sushi when he said he had the WMB XT7's I ended up buying and installing. I fell in love with the way my car looks with these wheels. It is a great alternative to pricey 3pc wheels that never quite look aggressive enough on stock body imo. I always hated seeing pictures of my car at drift events with mismatched wheels, so I definitely wanted to find another set of XT7's in WMB. I assumed it wouldn't be too difficult since they were in production for ~10 years before being disco'd. I was oblivious to the gaining rarity, popularity and price of these wheels when I bought them. Now that I have them and searching for another set I realized what I'm in for. COVID has really dried up the market on all levels. People are just not selling as much stuff as they were. This paints the false picture of "these parts don't exist anymore, therefore the prices must rise." I think the stuff still exists, but Japanese people just aren't selling right now. Either way, prices are through the roof and finding these wheels in my spec was starting to seem like an impossible feat. I started considering buying the XT7's in any color and getting them chromed once I had them. I also considered buying Advan Model 5's, Advan T6's, Work XC8's, or any monoblock in chrome, but that really didn't help my search at all. This shit just wasn't on the market. Thankfully one of my IG followers hit me up about a set of WMB XT7's being sold by a wheel page based out of Russia in THE SAME SPEC. I instantly moved on them. I was nervous about shipping due to COVID since I know dudes that have had packages from Russia held up since COVID started back in March-April. Thankfully these wheels got to my house in 8 days! Packaged beautifully. Kind of a weird name, but I totally recommend "SlamBangWheels" on Instagram. Great packaging, fast shipping, great condition. My expectations were succeeded and now my car will always have matching wheels. I sold all of my 17's, so now it's just 18" XT7's for me.
  21. LUMBERZACK

    [HIZOKU] PIG EYE Streeter

    Looking forward to the future progress. Three builds to update is a lot of work lol.
  22. LUMBERZACK

    New Look / Same Poor Taste

    A lot of good stuff going on in here. Mark II looks like a very clean example too.
  23. LUMBERZACK

    Sleeper MX83 build

    I saw your comment about hanging your doors from the frames... Don't do that. With the door laying down, spray the inside first, then clear and let cure, then flip over and repeat. The edges will melt together so don't worry about creating a clear "shell". You get WAYYY glassier results on any part you can lay down since the clear is less likely to run. Doors especially are best to take advantage of laying horizontally. everyone loves to see doors with deep glass reflection. $1000 for base is pretty typical for a quality base with a bit of metallic. That's what I paid for my Champagne. Great progress so far. Can't wait for the final product, but don't rush it man. Just breathe. I know it's a lot of grueling and tedious work, but do it once, do it right because cutting a corner now will live forever in your paint and you'll be pissed every time, beating yourself up "why did I cut that corner". Just find serenity man. You got this.
  24. LUMBERZACK

    Kyle Anson's Cresshita Build Thread

    I love it
  25. LUMBERZACK

    Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia

    @battleaxe I totally agree. I’ve seen cars go from a complete miss to an absolute hit, just by adjusting the ride height and literally that’s all 90% of F&F cars needed. @Urrik definitely big gay because these are Work XT7’s, not gramlights lol. I’m done with colored wheels. It hasn’t really worked on this car to be honest. I know what you mean by cookie cutter VSKFs though. They are so popular yet so disgusting. Also, I’d like to know your take on the car of her people, because if it ain’t a 4’-11” latina behind the wheel of a long ass 1998 chevy suburban with a sticker on the entire back window that says “Durango” and a smaller sticker that says, in memory of Gloria Lopez Lopez - 1974-2008, then idk what you mean. @tuner4life Thank you so much dude! I definitely think cars should be driven and driven hard is the best way to enjoy them. In the same breath it’s not enough to drive hard. You have to look cool doing it otherwise it’s boring. Like many have said, “drifting is a rolling car show.” I’ve seen kids throw down some aggressive lines consistently, but it’s not anything worth filming imo because the car looks like shit. There was a big event down here last year and there was one kid with a stockish frs with angle mods I remember commenting, “damn he’s driving hard and consistently running the wall.” Since the event, I’ve probably only seen one photo or clip of the kid’s car the entire two day event. I guess being a good driver is not enough to get spot light, people just don’t want to photograph ugly cars.
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