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0 NeutralAbout LUMBERZACK
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Rank
I♥1J
- Birthday 09/24/1993
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Country
United States
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Male
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Location
Arizona
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Nice score on the bumper! $300 is cheeeeap. Just build a rear "bash bar" that fits the contours to support the bumper. That's the main reason a lot of us build custom bash bars. To support the bumper, not necessarily to bash into things lol. Calling them bash bars just sounds more edgy. On the topic of bashing and drifting, FWIW, in the 40k miles I have driven my swapped Cressida, more damage to my car has happened while daily driving than drifting. I think a lady in a Kia Optima pulling out in front of you last second is almost just as prevalent as having a concrete barrier at a drift event claim your ride. Either way I understand your concern and commend your decision to keep your car in good condition. Excited to see what you do.
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Will check back later
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I wish it was a Mark II. GLWS
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OK. Pls sea PayPal details and ship me the car.
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Brian in a Cressida = the universe aligned
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I guess the technical name is "refrigerated compressed air dryer", but refrigerated dryers use a refrigeration compressor and heat exchange to cool the compressed air to 35°F, a temperature where the moisture condenses and is drained off. It's nice that they cool the compressed air too so that you're not "drying" the paint as you spray it. Not that this applies to you in any way, just figured you could nerd out about it like me. lol
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Those PHR lasered pulleys look so aggressive. Nice job scoring an Iwata. Personally for Primer, I use a cheap $20 harbor freight HVLP gun; I just toss the gun away after since primer is annoying to clean and I don't like spraying base and primer out of the same gun. Especially with a nice Iwata you bought. Plus primer sprayed finish doesn't necessarily matter since you're going to wetsand the primer anyway. Just something to think about. Either way, looking good man! I agree it's much easier to see your progress and faults with a solid coat of primer. Luckily for you PNW guys, you guys don't need compressor air refrigerators. Just need a shit ton of water separators. lol. If you don't have a moisture separator at the gun, consider getting one of those disposable ones. They're like $5
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Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia
LUMBERZACK replied to LUMBERZACK's topic in Build Threads
Without actually measuring, the front bar seems to be a 21-22mm bar since it is still thinner than my 25mm rear bar. Yeah idk what Canada is doing with their dollar, but hey at least you have affordable healthcare, amirite? -
I’d sail it
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If it’s for sail
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Simple Single > complex twins, but let’s act like you knew that since you ran either setup.. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia
LUMBERZACK replied to LUMBERZACK's topic in Build Threads
Hell yeah! -
Define "right". I heard you HAVE to completely engineer a new rear end of an x7 for it to drift right... Oh and V8 swap it because a 5M can't spin 195's
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Nice. Sail to me so I can actually make it cool, pls n tanks.
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Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia
LUMBERZACK replied to LUMBERZACK's topic in Build Threads
Jason, I've been using a $20 turbo SW20 18mm front bar in the rear for a while. I came up on this custom 25mm rear bar for free lol. For the front bar, after converting Australia's worthless currency to our clearly more superior dollar, it was ~$325 iirc. Not the cheapest sway bar, but for a custom direct fit piece, I'm not disappointed. Casey, yeah man Mako readily offers Cressida front and rear bar custom options. Shouldn't be much trouble aside from the production time wait.