LUMBERZACK

Most pick n pulls only leave a car on the dismantle lot for 2 weeks tops before they scrap them; unless it's a popular car worth keeping (I'll give you a hint, it wouldn't be a Cressida). I'd doubt it's still there.

Well, in a few years this thing will probably be worth $40k considering the trend of current pricing. Even if it's a shelf in your garage.

@lucas Thank you so much dude! I really appreciate it. I'm hoping to add a few more little gold touches here and there to accent the handles, but there's definitely a fine line with gold where it can get tacky fast. Haha.

LMAO there it is.

Checking into this topic a bit late here, but I also get the same vibration on my car above 90. Balanced many different wheels, new wheel bearings, new ball joints, arm bushings, diff mounts, new diff bearings and rebuilt trans with all new bearings. It's kinda disheartening to have brand new everything and still experience this vibration I can't get rid of. I'm surprised so many of us are reporting this issue. If it is leading to catastrophic failure, that's not comforting. Although doubtful, let us know if the new trans solves the issue, or if the vibration ends up eating your new trans too.

Ahhh, THAT H-town. Yeah, there's Houston, and then there's HOUSTON.

So rad having an x3 still chugging along strong. Why did it take 10 hours? Traffic?

Hoping life quality improves for you buddy. Shit sounds rough, but I commend you for pushing through it and getting out there to keep your mind off of shit. 2020 has been such a year and I'm not even surprised at the increase in suicide and domestic violence cases. It's saddening. Looks like you had good time driving though, that's rad!

@battleaxe Maybe I haven't announced it officially, but the Cressida is no longer my daily. I now have a company truck that I drive. The Cressida just gets driven on the weekends to friend's houses and shit, just ready for a drift event. Yeah, I'd never run front toe on a daily, especially 1/8" lol. Thanks homie! We're definitely taking our time on the bumper so I'm hoping for great results! I like a lot of wheels and I kept my eyes open for Chrome Work XC8's, Model 5's, Advan T6, AVS Model 6, GramLight 57Pros...well pretty much any early 00's wheel in chrome and the market right now for '90's-'00's japanese car parts is fucking ridiculous. Parts aren't littered over yaj like they once were and the parts that are listed are 3x the usual price. Same with the local marketplace even. It was actually pure fate that I got a second set of WMB XT7's for a great price. @bigtoepfer Totally man. I'm glad I have a company truck now, because I've gone through 2 windshields in 7 months. The company has full-coverage and since it's a common-ass F-150, I just call the mobile guy and he replaces the window same day at my house. Super convenient. What's crazy to me is, I've imported multiple sets of glass headlights from Japan and the glass is pristine on them, even being 30 years old. After 3 months in Arizona, they'll be pitted and cracked. Such a disappointment, which is why I use Lamin-X film on my headlights and they look perfect. Thank you for the compliments!

Not much to update this time around, but I'm bored and have some free time to post here. Windshield glass doesn't last long in Arizona before it becomes littered with rock chips and has more crack than a Circle K parking lot. So I had my buddy install a freshy for me. Windshield coverage and next day install is a huge benefit over owning and driving a JDM import. I began noticing that my rear wheels had a bit of play in them when I grabbed onto them. I immediately thought it was the wheel bearings or ball joints, but given that I replaced those 1.5 year ago. I checked other culprits and found that my Xcessive poly joints had a fair amount of play in them. Mind you I have over 4 years and 40k miles, with a couple dozen drift events on these. I think they served me well. So I ordered new joints. One thing I noticed in the picture below, was the old ones (top) have zerk fittings, whereas the new ones (bottom) do not. They're clearly from a different manufacturer, but hopefully these last as long. It's finally time to show my rear bumper some love since it is on its last leg. My buddy who is doing the repair is taking the opportunity to address many of the fitment issues the bumper has had its whole life. Hopefully it will fit much cleaner than previous. We're hoping to raise it up some as well to minimize how much it drags and gets caught on shit. I had a local guy come work his magic on my alignment. He is mobile and comes to your house to do your alignment, granted you have a garage he can work it. He brings a digital camber gauge and toe plates and spends as much time as he needs to to set it up perfectly. I think he was at my house for the better part of 6 hours painstakingly making sure everything was perfect. My final specs are: Front: -5.7 Camber, 1/8 Toe out Rear: -0.5 Camber, 1/8 Toe in The car drives fantastic. The steering wheel is level and it drives as straight as an arrow. Well worth the money. I don't have a picture of him doing the alignment, but here's a picture of my post-alignment fitment. Also, I wanted to make sure that I didn't miss out on the limited run gold work emotion center caps, so I bought a second set for my drift spares. Now my wheels will always match. I also got new valve stems because the seal on all of mine are starting to dry rot. That's it for now. My bumper is not finished yet. I have a few other things I'm working on as well, but I don't have any pictures, so we'll wait until the next post.

God I'm so hype on this. I have absolutely no need for it, but will probably end up buying for the sole reason of supporting a company that finally cared enough to release something for these stupid cars. My biggest question is, given that I drive my car A LOT, longevity is a huge determining factor for me. The main lower ball joint on the LCA looks welded in place. Are the heims serviceable? Does Acostal use universal joints or will I have to contact Acostal any time the joints start to wear out?

@ROBAPHENT Well now you can post an update about those Acostal front arms for X8. I'm super pumped, but I have some questions about em. @AcidTrip I'm stoked for you bud! Good to finally see you throw on some quality parts! :* Now send me a new Christmas card.

Thanks dudes! There's so many ideas in my head of things like this I want to do, but I just got to get over the money hurdle. Haha. I've got time though, so this stuff will continue. Honestly, they're always quite a bitch, but my best advice is removing the bolt and screws that hold the lock actuator and get it out of the way and use a 1/4" ratchet with a 6" extension and a swivel head for the socket is the best bet at getting to the bolt for the handle. The little plastic retainer clips for the rods are always a pain too. lol. small but strong fingers is the recipe. Thanks dude! If you're in Cali, let me know what they are charging for this work, because in AZ, it's $$$$

Thanks guys! @Urrik most people associate with El Chapo or some Mexican drug cartel, but I’ll accept your creativity lol.

@battleaxe This 100%. Yes, seeing that first shot of base will totally reignite the motivation, I promise. If you’re getting bad results, just focus on spraying sealer on one part that is quick and easy to fix until your settings are solid. For instance, a door. Don’t practice on the most complex canvas with all those curves. Also when you said 30psi, I immediately thought your pressure is too high. Especially with something as diluted as sealer. Try 20psi. You’ll get it.