BoristheCat

Got the JZX81 specific hub. It says it was 63mm, but it definitely looks shorter than the one you're using. Either way, I'm building a road car and I'm really anal about dumb shit like this. If my car was a track build only, I wouldn't even care.

You mean the red two piece plastic cover thing? No way bub.

I'm 5'9. Are you referring to the side bolsters? They have loads of clearance on both sides, nothing hits or rubs. I used Bride RO rails and they fit great.

Test fit the seats. I'm really happy with them. The rails work great. I'm not liking how tall the WB hub is. Even though they call it a short hub, it's still really far away from my signal stocks. I have to take my hand off the steering wheel and reach back half a foot practically to get to them. A friend gave me an old Toyota wheel that I chopped up to get the center spline section out of. I had a spare WB hub laying around from when I bought my Tom's wheel that I chopped up to get the hub face off of. Now it's off to the machine shop to get it turned on a lathe. My friend said he would weld it once it came back, and then I'll be in business. It looks like hackery for the time being, but it will be fine once I get the machine work done.

Why is everyone asking for these all of a sudden? That TimTimminy guy wanted one, then Slapstick, now this guy.

You won't, don't worry. This is a street car, so no race harnesses will be put in that car. I saw a video of a guy that died Dale Earnhardt style because he had a race harness, no airbag and no neck brace. Race harnesses don't stretch on impact like street seatbelts do, so your body stops and your head keeps going. Keeping the stock seatbelts for sure

I looked into that. I would have to get completely different upper and lower B pillar trim. I can't find it on YAJ, Craigslist or ebay, so this will have to work. I also don't think any JDM spec x chassis had the same color code and fuzzy faux-suede finish that my car has. Got the seats in the mail today though. Now I understand why these seats are so popular. They look fantastic, are comfortable and are pretty damn light. One item from my RHDJapan purchase is on backorder. I won't get the seat rails or steering wheel hub stuff until the beginning of April, but I don't mind. There's plenty of stuff to do in the meantime.

That is reassuring. Some smaller details that I forgot to elaborate on... I had to chop up the core support a little bit to move the radiator forward. This made sure that the stupid transmission choice of mine would line up in the stock location. I have about an inch of clearance between the water pump pulley gear and the radiator overflow tank. I also fitted some seatbelts from a 90 corolla. They bolt into the stock location of the bullshit auto seatbelts. I know someone who can sew the stock seatbelts to the clip that plugs into the seatbelt receiver.

I've heard really good things about the Link ECU's. Apparently they're very user-friendly and not too difficult to tune with. However, because they're not as big as AEM or others, I've heard it's quite a bit harder to find a tuner, especially one who is familiar with tuning VVT-i motors. You are showing way more restraint than I ever would knowing that you could draw way more power out of your setup than you've chosen to. I forgot to ask you a few pages back, are you running the Works 63mm short hub, or the standard hub? I bought the short hub because I wanted the steering wheel closer to the turn signals and wiper controls.

Lol in your case Gordo, I absolutely believe that. You better get that car done before you croak of natural causes

I'm super jealous of your rear diff setup as it is, putting a kaaz in it is gonna be burly!

Yeah, it's gotten out of hand. I'll post my spreadsheet when I'm closer to being done with my build

Lol yeah. Life is short, and I'm antsy to get this car done. I should be doing big boy stuff like saving for a house, but I'm being irresponsible and just dumping money into toys. I've just eclipsed the 27k mark on this car so far. Still have at least another 6k to go If I was smart, I would stop counting, but no one believes me when I say building a car will be expensive. I'll just bust out my excel spreadsheet of all that I've spent and cry over it with whoever I'm showing it to

Thanks Zach. Yeah, he's really communicative. I'm really impressed with how professional he is. Glad to hear you like them. Mine just shipped this morning, and I can't wait to get them. I'm super antsy to fit them in my car. I bought some RO rails for the seats along with a works bell hub, hub release, flipper and steering wheel lock, all of which should show up within the next week or so. Decided to get all my stuff from RHDJapan in one big order, since shipping was pretty steep at $200.

I sit with a really aggressive Detroit lean. I got rid of my Camry a few years ago and I miss being able to slouch low. A fixed seat for a street car like mine doesn't make much sense. Plus more adjustability is always nice

You bet they are. Zach referred me to the guy. There's ways to tell and after doing a bunch of research, I felt confident buying these things

Haha yeah, that's exactly why I like them. At first I was going to get a pair of yellow kevlar gias with the gradient fabric on the cushions, but it was too much going on at once. Like you said, this is more subtle. The black will go well with a lot more than the gradient fabric. I also think the stradias are a more appropriate choice for a street car since the seat bolsters aren't as ridiculously tall compared to the gias

Just bought these bad boys

Damn, looking very hot! Those are some great moving shots from your track day. What were your tire measurements with the 18's on there, and what are they now? As discussed previously in your thread, I would just be paranoid about my kit scraping if I dropped it lower on 17's. Curious to see how it works for you

I'll probably just craigslist a Toyota seat with the same bracket spacing. Oh yeah, and I need a quick release... and a driveshaft... and I'm gonna go with those ctsv brakes... At least my tax return is coming though. I'll do seats last I guess

Yeah, I know... but I need 350z clutch discs in the housing of a 2J clutch. Driftmotion will mix and match the parts for you, and yeah, it's right around $1700. The $2300 includes the tilton throwout bearing, the master cylinder and the clutch line.

Thankfully I do have an autobody butt buddy. I don't feel like dragging my car to his shop in downtown Seattle though. I'll probably go to Wesco and have them put the stock color in some cans and just make a ghetto paint booth in my garage. I'm not repainting the whole car, just color matching the bumper and engine bay to the existing paint.

Thanks Zach. I'm realizing that I'm not going to have this car ready for the spring/summer, which is bumming me out. I still need: Seats: $2600 or so Clutch: $2300 Wheels and tires: $3200 Paint: $600?? Oh well

And you all said it couldn't be done... The tunnel isn't completely welded. I'll finish it once the motor and trans are pulled back out. Everything fits. I can shift the thing just fine, the shifter almost lines up to center, and the trans sits parallel with the frame rails. I grafted a 350Z crossmember to some rectangular tube stock and used a 350Z polyurethane trans mount. I'll post pics of it later. My friend is going to CAD a slightly longer shift bracket thing and then I'll be golden. I don't give a fuck if my ratios are dicked. Smooth shifting action and the ability to hold the power. Worth it. Electrical is complete aside from a bug or two that I need to sort out. I'm one happy camper.

No. There were other X8 chassis that did though. GX81/JZX81 cars did. The tach and speedo locations are swapped, and you have to do a lot of filing and fuckery to get it to work. So no, the reset stick to the trip wheel won't line up. I was going to post in this thread within the next month on how to put MKIV Supra speedo cluster guts behind the stock speedo face along with a GX81 tach face into an X83 cluster and feed them through Dakota Digital conversion boxes via an unused ABS sensor for a speed signal. I'm pissed at my cars at the moment, so I don't feel like answering a bunch of questions. It can be done, but it's a huge amount of time/effort/money/hackery. I'll elaborate more on it or post something in the tech section in a few weeks/months