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Everything posted by BoristheCat

  1. I started an X73 build a few years ago but scrapped it in favor of an MX83. I have this diff left over. I'm not planning to ever use it, hence the sale. The invoice from the shop will be included with the diff. It has: Brand new 3.73 ring and pinion $200 Overhaul kit (using OEM parts) $214 OEM axle seals $59 Weir performance MAXGRIP LSD kit $190.00 Filled with redline MT-90 $32 The labor cost of the overhaul was $380. I don't consider the labor cost as a factor in selling this, I just want to let you guys know that a professional assembled this, not my dumbass. Note that friction modifier has been added. If you're lucky enough to find one of these at a yard, it's only $100 or so in my neck of the woods. eBay is more expensive. I can ship freight in the lower 48 for under $100, or you can pick up locally if you're near the Seattle area. I will provide you with a tracking number. I'm fairly lenient on price. PM me an offer if you're interested.
  2. SOOOOLLLLD! Got $700 for it, I'm more than happy with that. Sold it on celicasupra.com within 20 minutes of putting the ad up, shit was cash. Battleaxe, if you're ever in Seattle, I'll buy you a beer.
  3. BoristheCat

    89 Cressida part out

    I need: Driver's side window/door lock/window lock controls Gauge light dimmer dial Steering wheel tilt lever thing The two buttons in the pic on the climate control. If they're not easily removable for you, don't worry about it. I only want this stuff if the plastic is in good shape and the symbols aren't faded to shit.
  4. Hmm, interesting. Yes, the G series are rare as shit and of course a premium. I have seen pictures. I can tell you're a paypal savage. If someone who is unaware of this diff actually wants to see it, paypal Gordo one american dollar to cure your own lack of knowledge and to progress his 7m build. Anyhow, yes, my coworker had damn near 100K into that supra. I forgot what brand it was, but he had absurd top of the line everything, all over the car. Titanium parts on everything. Ridiculous amounts of custom machine work. I have never known him to half-ass or hack anything. He told me he wanted that diff to be as streetable as possible, so he didn't throw a kaaz or OS Giken into it. He welded the intake manifold for Stu's record-setting supra on stock twins over on the supra forum. My eyebrows went up when he told me his diff was stock aside from the Weir pinion spacer and plates.
  5. Ok, thanks for the advice on the supra forum. Just out of curiosity, since a ton of Toyotas of this era use IRS 8 inch diffs, what would be their limiting factor? I have a coworker who had a 900 hp mkiii with a 2j in it and his diff was rebuilt with just a stiffer spring, a spacer and weir plates. He only drove it on the street, and he said it held up to the abuse for years until right before he sold it when it started to grind. I would figure how easy the rear end breaks would determine how long the diff lasted. If you have stock tires on the back, of course it's going to be easy on the diff because the tires have less contact and will break much easier. But if you have super sticky big tires and beat the piss out of it, I figure it would blow up sooner. Anyway, I'll throw an ad up on celicasupra.com. Thanks again.
  6. I am not blaming you at all for my decision to spend $800 on a diff, which is why I said I'm willing to take a several hundred dollar loss on it (up to a point). My buddy was going to try and buy an R154 from this guy. The guy had it listed for $1200. My buddy calls him and says "Hey man, since that R154's been on Craigslist for a week and no one's buying it, I can give you $400 for it!" This older Gordo-esque guy told him to fuck off and stop wasting his time. I'm a little more patient than that guy though. Lowballing somebody isn't really helping them out, just sayin. You're definitely closer with the $350 offer, but not quite there.
  7. Real talk, I overpaid for this diff (don't ask me by how much). I told the dude I would take a couple hundred dollar loss on it in order to sell it. Yes, most Cressida owners are poor cunts, myself included. Most don't have the patience to piece more expensive parts together over a longer period, they want their shit together yesterday, again myself included. I can't confirm or deny if there is a pinion spacer in it. Obviously because it's around the pinion shaft and obscured from view, I don't really have a way to identify whether the diff has it unless I take it apart. If you're interested, I'm down to meet you halfway travel-wise if you're not too far.
  8. Got a bite, but was offered $200. Uhhh... lol, no. The Maxgrip LSD kit by itself is $200. If you think even $400 is expensive for a professionally fully rebuilt diff with performance parts in it, maybe you should stick to Hondas. And I don't care if there are cheaper diffs for $200 near you, and I don't care that your buddy can set up a diff. You wouldn't be asking what my bottom dollar was if you didn't need this thing. I'm not even mad though. Laughed pretty hard at "well, the money's burning a hole in my pocket, just get back to me anytime to get that 200 bucks man!" Nah, I'm good.
  9. In my area, you can't find a shop that will charge less than $400 to set up a diff. You could probably shadetree that shit for $200 in my area and people would consider that really cheap. There is a statement at the bottom of the invoice under accessories that states: "Pd 2-20-12 b/c 051001-1" No clue what that means. Googling "051001-1" turns up nothing.
  10. I'm going to be 100% honest with you, I'm not sure whether it has it or not. The invoice states "one int. O/H kit". I would be surprised if the guy who got the rebuild went to all that effort and didn't get the spacer. Even if the sad OEM sleeve is in there, it is a new part. I have no idea how long it would last under high power... probably not too long. Nonetheless, if people are genuinely interested, I can crack it open and let them know.
  11. BoristheCat

    7mge adjusting shims needed,

    Dude... I just... I feel dumber after reading your post. I spent a grand total of $300 to fully rebuild the top end of my boring 7m. If you're too cheap to do that, what are you working on the car for? Besides, if you want shims, you would have to put all the buckets and shims in, figure out which shims are off, (I think quite a few of them will be, especially with 200k on the motor) use a micrometer to measure how far off you are, and then order even more to compensate. Not to mention, there are several Toyota motors that have interchangeable buckets and shims. Unfortunately you didn't even bother to Google any of this shit. You should paypal me a few bucks for me having to waste my time on you. I don't want to hear any of your complaining either. I'm building my cress in 35 degree weather, in the rain, in my mom's driveway. I don't care about your 7m hardships, and neither does anyone else here.
  12. BoristheCat

    Sleeper MX83 build

    I am a big fan of the grey x7's with the red interior, definitely my favorite color combo.
  13. BoristheCat

    Sleeper MX83 build

    Also put in the xcessive steering rack bushings Well, which is worse, dumping simple green into a 7M, or dumping simple green into a JZ? It is not wasted time if I'm learning. Keep in mind, this is the first motor I have taken apart. The interior is pretty much immaculate, and the paint is great, aside from the front being a little roughed up. In all seriousness, I have never seen a cress with a better interior than the one I bought. The long-term goal of this car is to have decent power and handling for the street. I do care about looks, so finding a car with a good interior and exterior was important to me. I have seen VERY few Cressidas that don't have a million dings or a jacked interior. Anyway, back on topic. The rear hubs are almost done. Bought lots of rear-end components from xcessive. The LCA pillow balls and RUCA bushings have been installed. Unfortunately, the spacers that go into the traction rod pillow balls were machined slightly too small. Rich at xcessive told me to send them back in order to turn them out a little bit more. By the way, xcessive has great customer service. Really helpful guys over there. Once this is complete, the hubs will be done.
  14. BoristheCat

    Sleeper MX83 build

    Gordo, keep in mind the 7mge is my motor to practice on, learn from and fuk up on. It is strictly a learning experience, nothing else. I have spent less than $300 to rebuild this motor. Full gasket kit, a few bucks here and there for hoses and some basic cleaning stuff. Serial nine coilovers are next on the agenda anyway. If I turn it over and it runs for 20 minutes and then something goes wrong, I get to tear it apart and figure out where I went wrong. Plus I haven't been asking a ton of dumb questions like many new people with low post counts, so there's that. Lapped the valves on the head and cleaned out the ports. Dirty: Clean(er) After I lapped the valves and finished cleaning the head. The local machine shop charges less than $100 to skim the head. Once this is done, I can bolt stuff back together.
  15. BoristheCat

    Sleeper MX83 build

    At this point, I was wondering if my bottom end was having difficulty. I tried and failed at cleaning the carbon off the tops of the pistons by using simple green. Some people online mentioned letting simple green would remove carbon if left overnight. It helped a little, but barely. This is where the serious first fuck-up in my rebuild occurred. I figured leaving simple green in the sump was no big deal, after all, it's a cleaning agent right? Wrong. Very wrong. It is water-based, and if left in contact with metal, will rust and pit it. So did I remove the simple green right away? Nope. I left it in the sump. For... an entire month. I tried turning the crank a month later and it wouldn't budge. Not to mention, there was now surface rust built up on the cylinder walls. Oh boy, how am I going to clean this crap up? I came across something online that mentioned Berkebile 2+2 instant gum cutter was the best way to get rid of carbon build-up. The poverty stuff from Autozone did absolutely nothing, I might as well have poured water onto my piston heads. The 2+2 stuff is illegal in California, and the entire bottle is covered in warnings. It must be the good stuff. Sure enough... Hell yeah! I also used a sponge to clean the carbon off of the cylinder walls. I used the green abrasive side. Keep in mind, steel wool or scotch-brite would score and possibly damage the cylinder walls and leave little bits behind that would scratch the walls up once the pistons travel up and down. However, the green side of the sponge is nylon. Worked pretty well in my opinion. Again, Cleaned the second and fifth piston walls first, and then did the rest. The crank turns super smoothly now, crisis averted.
  16. BoristheCat

    Sleeper MX83 build

    Cleaned out the intake and exhaust. Much less crusty. I also took this opportunity to remove all the EGR crap. After some research, people were saying the EGR routes too much of the exhaust back into the sixth cylinder, and makes things too hot. Probably why the sixth cylinder was the worst when it came to the carbon build up. I also bought block-off plates off of driftmotion that will be installed once all the head work is done. The head was in pretty lousy shape as well. Better clean it up and do some valve work. The intake valves were beyond gross. They had lots of stalactite looking crap built up on them. The exhaust valves weren't too bad though. Before and after:
  17. BoristheCat

    Sleeper MX83 build

    On to the engine. Ran a compression test. The readings: 1. 190 2. 195 3. 190 4. 90 (uh oh...) 5. 185 6. Annnddd... shit. No wonder the motor was running rough and was super low on power. Between running non-platinum tipped spark plugs (champion) and the kid being cheap and probably running 87 octane, he wasn't doing the engine any favors. When I was cranking it, my gearhead buddy said he could hear air rushing out of the valves. Our first assumption was that they were not sealing all the way, causing the low compression. Upon removing the intake manifold and exhaust manifold, it became apparent that everything was super crusty with carbon. Intake and exhaust Gross. I pulled everything apart down to the block. When I looked at the top of the first piston, there was radiator fluid on it and the head gasket was warped between a cooling channel and the first piston. The first piston also had next to no carbon build up on it while the rest were absolutely filthy. What more evidence do you need?
  18. BoristheCat

    Sleeper MX83 build

    I also dropped the subframe and started to mock up some of the diff stuff. I took a gamble and bought a used MKIII LSD off ebay. When it got to my place, it was covered in rust and diff fluid from the drain plug being loose. It wasn't pretty, and I didn't take pics of it when it first rolled in.I opened it up and it looked healthy. No chipped teeth and no metal chunks or really gritty sediment on the drain plug. Aaaaand, painted. If I was smart, I would have put metal prep on it so the POR-15 would have actually stuck. Did I do that? Of course not. I went to pick at an edge after the paint was dry, and what do you know, the paint peeled off in one big patch. You live and you learn. I'll wire wheel the paint off and do it again.
  19. BoristheCat

    Sleeper MX83 build

    After bringing it home, I cleaned it out and got it plated. I tried turning it over the following day, and white smoke started pouring out of the exhaust. Fuck. Turned out to be a blown head gasket, big surprise. I couldn't leave the car alone, and had to start working on it. I have never rebuilt a motor before, so I decided it would be appropriate to practice tearing down and rebuilding the 7m on the cheap before I dropped in a better motor and trans. I also wanted to get the suspension and driveline built up first and enjoy it as a car with decent handling while I save up for the JZ. Replaced the headlight and corner light. I sort of finger fukked the front quarter panel back into place for the most part, but it's still nowhere near perfect. I bought a bunch of stuff from xcessive and got to work on replacing all the sloppy rubber in the suspension. Replaced stuff in the front. Serial nine sway bar endlinks and tension rod bushings. I am well aware that I am being lazy by not cleaning off all the gunk on the control arms and sway bar. Yes, I'll get to it.