tuner4life

I've heard good and bad with XM. I have almost all of their chassis stuff for the X8, as well as the engine and trans mounts, dual caliper kit, etc. The only gripes I've had are the standard heim Joints they use are garbage. Lasted 2 track events and less than 1k of street driving before becoming loose/noisy.. You can ask that they be upgraded to better joints which did last a full season of events, however they are bad again. I know that to a point, this is common for heim joints, but it is still a little disappointing that the better option isn't pushed when buying.. I will be replacing them again and using "Sealsit" boots on them to see if that helps. They also had an issue with their polyurethane rack mount bushings at one point and they made that right for me at no charge. Other than that, I've had no issues that weren't self inflicted. Considering that most other cost significantly more, I can't really complain. Plus any time I've called them and needed anything they (usually Rich himself) is always helpful and fast. Even breaking down one of their kits and overnighting me a single tension rod that I had damaged. Their customer service has been the best I've ever dealt with. Again, just my personal experience. Not arguing as I have heard several negative experiences as well. Also to note: My rear arms (off the shelf) when zeroed out as much as possible are at -0.3 deg. While yes, that is not true 0deg.. It is as close as I need/want and still wear my back tires even side to side. I agree that they should be able to adjust closer to zero, but they were pretty close. Honestly, I don't care if Autozone started making replacement RUCAs. I would just replace them every season under lifetime warranty lol. Just need some (any) options if I want to be a lazy ass and not have to build something custom. And as much as I like Gordo's arms, I don't want to re-taper my knuckles.. (It might come to this eventually anyways)

It's actually not too bad to ship as I get a discount shipping through my work's shipping dept. It's right around $15 to most of the country.

I forgot I had this until I cleaned the shop last week. This is the center console assy from my 1991 Cressida. I had thoughts of cutting it up and making the hydro E-brake fit underneath, but I realize now that this car will never have a full interior. It's gray, and in good shape. Comes with the armrest lid and all trim covers/caps minus the shifter surround. I need to find a couple screws that attach the lid to the console, but the hinge is in good shape. The armrest has a slight dent and material wear where your elbow would go. That being said. I've never seen another in this nice condition.. I would like $60 shipped to the lower 48 or picked up in Northern IN 46506 for slightly less.

I just wish XM would quit being a cock tease and make RUCAs already..

I have a hood, rad support, and bumper, but shipping would probably cost you more than a x8 shell with all the parts you need.. And if you're in socal, any junker you find will probably be in better condition than the street cars here.

This is amazing! nice work!

Good shit! One of my favorite Cressidas on here. And it actually gets thrashed. Great work!

TLDR: More details on the FRS/BRZ diff? Not at all familiar with them.

Following.. If the taper is correct, this might be a decent option. Let us know how they hold up after being welded on.

7M, W58 with some sequential shifter worth more than the car, stock angle, stock ride height.. iF yOu CaN't DrIfT wItH A bLoWn hEaD gAsKeT, oPeN dIfF, aNd sAiLbOaT sPeC bOdY rOLL, tHeN 1000hP aNd wIsEfAb iSn'T gOiNg tO hElP yOu! JK. Love you Gordo.

I don't "need" that much angle but if I can get it, it will save me a few spins here and there and maybe I'll be able to nail a reverse entry here and there. That will make it worth the effort for me. At the end of the day, I mostly just want to see this thing through how I've been building it in my head. Sure, some of the stuff is "cookie cutter FD", but they do it that way because it works and every little thing is for a reason. It will also make the car much easier to work on at the track. Important stuff will be relocated away from potential crash damage, more room to work, and modular design will make adjustments and repairs so much easier than they are currently. Snappy transitions are more appreciated from the judges stand than inside of the car, but I rode in a nicely set-up FC early this year and It was a wake up call on how un-nimble the Cressida is in comparison. I want to do everything possible and see how far I can take it. Who knows, maybe I'll get done and the thing will drive like garbage, if so, I'll have one hell of a bash car.. Or maybe I'll sell it to some Fuckboy on facebook for $25k.. Only time will tell. It's also going to be a good way to improve my fabrication skill set, which is never a bad thing.

Sounds mean! This thing is truly inspirational!

This! Gordo's car will never be crumpled unless someone veers off the road up into his driveway and hits it

Thanks Lumberzack! Battleaxe: Yeah, the biggest handicap for these cars is weight and wheelbase. I don't remember the exact numbers, but my car in current form (which is pretty gutted already) still weighs nearly as much as a stock S13, and combine that with the longer-than-average wheelbase makes the car look like it transitions slower from outside the car. In the car it feels right, but I can't make the sharp snappy changes in direction like you see with shorter cars like FCs and S13s.. Granted the Cressida is smoother and more consistent, but I feel like if I get the weight down some and move everything inside the wheelbase as much as possible, it should help the situation. I am planning on moving the battery inside the car, moving the radiator to the back, and also using an aftermarket fuel cell that is over the rear axle (or as least more forward than it is now). I have a few other ideas I want to play with, but basically if I keep the weight as centered as much as possible, it should transition quicker and be more nimble. The other way for a long car to have the same "illusion of angle" as a short wheelbase car is to be able run more angle. I have the Xcessive kit up front, and the angle is already pretty good, however, I am still limited by things that should be fairly simple to improve. This picture is basically at lock. My tires rub on the inner fame rail and front inner tubs (will be fixed by widening the track and tube framing the front), and after that, the lock will be limited by the actual wheel hitting the tie rod I'm going to play with a combination of inners/outers where the outer tie rod ends have a "notch" for the wheel to fit into. All together I don't need a ton more angle, but when you are up against Wisefab cars, anything helps. The other thing I want to try (and I've heard rumors that it works, although no pictures for proof) is to see if S13 Wisefab could be adapted to the MX83. People use S13 front suspension all the time on these cars there's a possibility that the Wisefab may fit or at least be close enough to adapt to the MX83. All theory at this point, but I'm trying to find some one with an old worn out S13 Wisefab I could borrow to try it out.. Anyways.. It's all just ideas at this point, but I've been thinking about this stuff for years now and it's time to start experimenting. I feel like the car is as good as it can be in it's current form and I've learned so much with it. I just want more.

Been working on cleaning/organizing the shop.. Not done yet, but this thing is in it's long term home now. Going to be doing a lot of things to it and undoubtedly going to take forever to get them accomplished. The basic list is going to include: -Tube Chassis work front and rear and cage modifications, weight loss. -Some body changes including wide-body, Aero, color change, less metal and more fiberglass. Modular approach for easier fixes. -2JZ swap with undecided transmission and differential. -Rear radiator setup and fuel cell. -More angle, more track width. refreshed suspension. -FD rule-book compliance. Like I said. It's going to be a long project. I'll post updates if I actually make progress. Maybe I should just get a 240, but I love this thing and want to see it to it's full potential, even if it takes me until retirement. The UZ will be getting a once-over and be put into my RA65 eventually.