ROBAPHENT

I plan on doing a rear arm design, but only simply due to the fact JZX100's have the same fitment, a long the lines of a drop knuckle in the drifter world.

What one, i will find one if know what Toyota it is from JZX100 is pretty much identical but has an ABS/Speed sensor mount. I currently have them set up in my rear end.

So the MX32 slowed down as I got carried away with the development of X8 parts. its been a great learning curve and I have enjoyed it so i had the whole front end drawn up this is my cut-and-shut extended LCA, a stock caster with shockworks stub axle and an adjustable knuckle im developing. as you see have measured the hub, added a disc and wheel so we can measure the angle and adjustment I decided to start developing an adjustable "pro" style LCA and the bolt-off in the distance is the stock caster location, this will be a step up from my cut-and-shut LCA. the cut and shut the "pro" the greatest learning was doing the stub axle and seeing the steering point location, it turned out the stub axle to the mounting of the knuckle was off-centre, meaning what I thought was positive akerman turned out to be zero akerman etc. so now I can cater for this in design and so on. and a picture of the adjustable knuckle im working on. camber plate, I plan on adding some castor adjustment to it from the top. bushes for the rear upright, two different types for both locations, I have also drawn up, a rear brake upgrade that has been available for some time, but just cleaned up the design, a second calliper mount for the hydro drifters. diff and subframe bushes, however, I want to make some changes to the diff bushes. rear arms not including the top arm are done. going to do the caster mounts to offer an upgrade. so once the MX32 is complete it should just be a case of getting a lot of these things made and bolting it up.

fixed

No massive updates, but the guards are complete, and I purchased an old-school trust harness and shoulder pad set to complete the period correct catalogue

Updates are, All sensors have been purchased. The airbox has been purchased and modified. But now this happened. and I can't fit it. So the solution is going to be to move the tube elsewhere. It sucks as this box will only be on it for engineering/EPA tests here in Victoria, and then I will remove it. I purchased a TRD 2 Way LSD with a 4.3 Rear that I need to fit. all prototype metal is being re-cut out of 3mm as I found the 1mm was not that great and re-designed the heater tap mount how I fucked it when designing, but now its spot on, so I need to get it cut/bent purchased rubber for fuel tank straps. I created a Google retro speaker https://www.facebook.com/CISCOKIDSAU...77943153884800; these work rather well. Both speakers are combined in stereo, and only one action google assistant. Guards are getting repaired and vented to look like this AN fittings for whole charcoal canister setup I need to drill some holes in the tube, but modding the catch cans to work somewhat is complete. Sample of drilling. Won't go as high on the ones im using and, of course, will file/clean up.

Updates, Doubt the car will be done by December Where it is stored is flooded, and that's no issue for the car but getting it out is. The farm is a mud pit, so i can't take it anywhere until it drys out. sad but it's allowed me to start getting parts together to hit it with one big working bee on it. So I don't get how EFIHardware sells its products and has a good reputation. So as people are aware the ITB kit I purchased has been a bit of an issue to fit a 2JZ, anyway purchased their airbox that is meant to fit with their ITB kits, however, linkages would hit the box no matter what way I set up the linkages. anyway ended up in cutting notches in the airbox and from this designing covers for them that I'm, currently printing. The prototype cuts have been fine other than the heater tap mount, for some reason it's always off when I cut it, I might be jinxed. in regards to the motec M130, it turned out to be fine having a couple of inputs free and a single output. I have also sent off the guards to get vented etc to look like the below. So Custom work left is the rear spoiler I need to design, the tail shaft. fluid lines, loom and try and get this heater tap to mount correct. I need to decide what to do with gauges, and clusters., do I get the stock one working, or do I mod the stock one and add an elite micro-gauge or some other small canbus gauge? or do I go silly and buy a motec C1212? I think the elite micro will be the go, but still think a motec would be nice. then everything else seems to be off-the-shelf items, like buy clutch, headlights, battery, clutch slave, master etc and some tires. The rare part I'm on the lookout for is Trust 4-point harness with buckle x2, don't care if they are out of date, it's simply for show and to finish off the trust/greddy catalogue. so there we go. sorry, it's not a crazy update and lots of pictures or a start vid/skid vid. but hopefully, I can get a lot of it done early in the next year.

I have an IRS F series rear end. you have the older GA6/X7 and the IS300 TRD diffs available but they are discontinued. So getting one is hard I should add mine came with a 4.3 gear ratio and that should make it a little more fun with the NA.

So been a little lazy due to the cold weather.Still have the target of having it driveable by December. Pref the Japanese car show in early December, but if I miss that, the PF XMAS party.Updates are,all sensors have been purchasedThe airbox has been purchased, i still need to work out a way so the linkages don't hit the boxpurchased TRD 2 Way LSD.all prototype metal is being re-cut out of 3mm as i found the 1mm was not that great and re-designed the heater tap mount.purchased rubber for fuel tank straps,Created Google retro speaker https://www.facebook.com/CISCOKIDSAU...77943153884800 still needs some fine tuning, waiting on parts.next steps,once all metal is back, i will drop it all off at the powder coaters to get blasted/painted and start fitting it all.Problems,i think the change to Motec M130 might have been an issue as i might run out of inputs with the DBW ETC, but I will wire up all the essential things first, and whatever is left, i will decide on a case by case bases.

The fuel tank has been repaired, cleaned and coated in E85 safe stuff. hopefully, the coating does not flake, have heard mixed things but the shop that did it said I should not have problems and fingers crossed the fuel filter catches it all if it does fail. Progress has slowed down due to family life, in the next 3 weeks I should be free again to start getting things done.

So everything is mounted, I will require some thicker mounts etc. but I can at least dummy up hoses etc. DBW motor Mounted and now just needs linkage about 180mm I think it hard to tell what would be optimum and what will work without hitting anything etc.problems I need to solve are the heater tap mount/new oneextending the driving intermediate shaft 10mm.and fix dint in fuel tank large enough to cause issues with fuel pump/catchment.and put on some pretty bolts etc, and start cleaning it all up. straighten things etc and mount bumpers and so on. the good thing is other than some oil lines and an engine loom the custom side of things has been completed.

So the water jet place fucked up my order and there has been a delay and I will probably have to do most of them again due to what they used, was wanting to trail fit everything today as I won't be able to get to the car for another two weeks anyway. in the meantime, I took some advice in regards to the 350Z pedal and well used the stock bottom hole and made a new hole up top and this was the final result. pretty good if you ask me, after removing the stock pedal pad and putting the X3 one back on you can hardly notice the difference. i will trim down the new DBW rod so it all sits behind the stock X3 pedal but yeah. really happy with the results. The exhaust was also finished today other than hangers. (shop is out of stock)

Bit of a slow down, twin 16" thermo did not fit, so have gone one 11" one 16" and will attempt that Bosch DBW Pedal was to large and made it difficult to fit so have purchased a 350z one to see how that will go. all the items I dropped off at the metal guy to cut, he fucked up and I think they're all cut out of stainless. when I wanted mild steel and they did not even do the different thickness etc. so I'm going to have to get everything re-cut in the future but at least I can do the prototyping and make sure they all fit/do hoses etc. its just a waste though of time/effort. Sold the fancy KV8 Emtron ECU and downgraded it to a Motec M130. fewer inputs (still will end up with spares) and no onboard wideband. but for the price, I sold the emtron for I came out $200 ahead after buying the ECU and the Wideband controller.

Maybe I will bring it to the USA..... Was thinking about shipping my 81 to the states to do drift week and other events, like a driving my own car tour. but back to the topic, i will film a dyno run or a drive-by and tunnel run once it is driveable and use a decent mic setup.