

DwreckTheHinga
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0 NeutralAbout DwreckTheHinga
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Rank
I♥5M
- Birthday 03/26/1987
Previous Fields
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Country
Japan
Profile Information
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Gender
Male
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Location
SGV, California
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Okay, well again, neither post on here actually addressed what I needed help with, but instead nit-picked otherwise useless info. I have the answer now and the thread can be closed. Praise be to some Nordic God somewhere or something... The End
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Regardless, it's the one I have. I've read countless times it's the same one everyone else used, just rebranded. Either way...
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So as with many who do a 1JZVVTI swap- I used the info on supraforums to get everything up and running. No issues. Everything is good. However, after speaking with my tuner, he recommended a MAC solenoid as a boost controller to ensure getting the most from my tune. I've already thrown out all the OEM stuff including all of the VSV crap. Basically, I am just looking for confirmation that on plug "16p "H"- PIN 14 would be the one that would be responsible for sending signal to my solenoid. Considering it's a PFC and the boost controller is built in, I assume to use the functions I already have versus buying a whole new stand alone boost controller. Looking for confirmation if anyone would know this to be true. Thanks.
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LOL no. Absolutely not. My friend put that on my roof. Also, I'm friends with everybody at DM (30 min from me) so yeah. I wouldn't "steal" an idea from any of my friends... Either way, no I'm not, and no this isn't staying on or anywhere near this car once it's done.
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Living. Breathing.
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Been really busy with school, but got some intercooler piping taken care of. Harness is in and hopefully this weekend or next I'll be able to do first start up. Will add updates as that happens... Small video https://www.instagram.com/p/BU6Ekbnh1F1/
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LOL it's -6. So only slightly larger than OEM. Also, I bought all my lines and fittings from JEGS... so if it's Chinese... uhm well...
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Everyone, thank you. However, I do not intend on running E85.
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This weekend I finished up all the fuel lines, mounted up the intercooler, replaced my remote shift setup with MA70 shift lever and housing, and built a trans brace/mount. I didn't like that the XM brace wouldn't allow me to run my engine/trans as far back as their engine mounts would allow me to... Try not to mind my hoarding in the background.. Simple design that keeps the same geometry as the XM mount, but is further back, and more solid. I pretty much just got rid of all of the OEM fuel hard lines and left the single brake line. Once all the hard lines were gone I put all my new lines in there. Depending on what parts come in this week, I'll either focus on the oil cooler/power steering cooler setup as well as intercooler piping... or wiring.
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We haven't sold 9K branded bubble shift knobs in years... we do have the aluminum and steel knobs available currently. Including the weighted ones. What's your current setup? I would probably go with a 3.73 if I planned to street it often... However, since I decided to stick with the R154 instead of the CD009, I figured I could use the faux torque of the 4.3. Every build/intention is different, so the longer gears may very well suit your car perfectly.
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Stolen from MKIIItech.com- '86.5 - '90 GA70s w/the 1G-GE have a 4.56, clutch-pack or Torsen LSD 7.5" differential, NOT compatible with any of the other A70 diff setups. All 1G-GTE equipped GA70s have a 4.56, clutch-pack or Torsen LSD differential. '86.5-'92 MA70 N/A MKIIIs without Sport Package have a 4.30, open differential. '86.5-'92 MA70 N/A MKIIIs with Sport Package (TEMS & headlight washers on '86.5 - '88 : TEMS & PPS on '89-'92) have a 4.30, clutch-pack LSD differential. '87 - '88 MA70 turbo MKIIIs have a 3.91 clutch-pack LSD differential. '89+ MA70 turbo MKIIIs have a 3.73 clutch-pack LSD differential. '90 - '92 JZA70 Limited and R MKIIIs manual trans cars have a 4.10 Torsen LSD differential and auto trans cars have a 3.91 Torsen LSD differential. Note that a LSD was an option- so you could get a NA base model w/a LSD.
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Lastly, I don't have a bead roller to make a sturdy trap door with, so I settled for this, and it works fine, so fuck it.
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Also the only thing so far that I know of that was made in Taiwan was the manifold. Everything else is authentic...
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I don't understand? It's the same wastegate? MVR...
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LOL Like I said, I understand it, but have no clue how to explain it. Higher number = lower top speed. Lower number = Higher top speed. There. lol