supra_rulz

http://page22.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/l305328525 which ones are you looking for?

Got it got it, i wont come back till its fixed.

meh, you guys are sometimes in a good mood. Might have got lucky. Although you didn't call me a short-bus riding, crack whore baby, or anything of the sort, so i'll assume i'm headed in the right direction. ......i have a diagram...not of x-chassis but i'm not going to crucify myself here. and i don't live there anymore. But i have done favors for at least two maybe three members on here plus xcessive.

alright, where to begin... car's been driving fine for years now and then i let it sit for a few weeks, install an oil cooler, took it out for a spin, noticed i was only getting about 12.3v while driving. thought the alternator was going out so i took it to baxter and o'reilly to have it tested. one said bad, one said good. he tested it 5 times so i'm gonna go with the alternator is fine. re-installed it and noticed the alternator fuse was blown....but the car still ran. (i know, no idea how the hell that happened) . replaced the fuse, started, 13.8~14.2v yaaaay its fixed. next day driving down 405 and BOOM everything shuts down. pulled off and replaced the fuse on the side of the road, when i go to connect the ground (after positive) sparks galore! towed it home and diagnostics. i've checked the ground from the battery to the chassis and block, nothing touching or rubbing. i've checked the wire that comes off the alternator, no breaks or rub-through. i know the culprit is in the fuse box now. i traced the lines and so far discovered the short is either through the RTR fuse, alternator junction, or dome light. the test light lights up the brightest when the dome fuse is inserted then dimmer for alternator fuse and barely lit for the rtr fuse. i've gone in the fuse box inside the driver side and pulled each connector thing out (the ones that weren't fused to the case) and the test light didn't turn off so my guess is that the short lies between the fuse box inside fuse box (or if i'm really unlucky, one of the ones i couldn't pull out). Inspecting under the fender and as much as i can see elsewhere nothings rubbing, rubbed through or otherwise. Am i missing something here? or do i just have to rip out the whole body harness

Honestly just testing my luck here. Not expecting much and hoping someone from stupidmania bites, but in case one of you guys needs something that i have let me know. pretty much stuff thats going to get tossed soon. ITEM: Diff PRICE: 20$ + Shipping DESCRIPTION: Open Diff. Good for spare and/or welding purpose. Condition Not Known PICS: IMAG0438 IMAG0437 ITEM: Ebay Turbo (HX35W) PRICE: 70$ + Shipping DESCRIPTION: Its a turbo. Dont know much about it, came off working car. Has super minimal axial play and almost no other movement. PICS: DSC_0203 DSC_0202 ITEM: Coil Pack PRICE: 150(obo) + shipping DESCRIPTION: coils are in working condition; HOWEVER like all others 20+ years old, they have the cracks running down all of them. Cant afford new ones at the moment? These are your answer. PICS: DSC_0257 DSC_0258 ITEM: Wastegate PRICE: 100$(obo) + shipping DESCRIPTION: HKS Style 50mm with dump pipe PICS: DSC_0255 DSC_0256

shipped!

Found it, 7.38$ plus shipping

if i can find it, i have one that you can have for free, but it has no threads for the shift knob.

lmao, "secret" username on supramania

lol. i used to use pennzoil 5-30. but the oil pressure got really low on hot drift days. i switched to 0-40 and the startup pressure is lower and the hot temp pressure is more stable.

i'm hoping so.. All engine sounds are the same from what i can tell. the oil is Mobile1 0-40

alright, here are some pictures of the spark plugs, starting from front to back. Compression test results are (front to back): 170 171 174 170 175 171 tips looked a bit dark so i replaced them with new plugs and waiting to go buy some screws for the coil packs since i stripped one of them.

oh jeeze ^ well, yesterday while trying to do the compression test, i got the plug adapter stuck in my friends s2k head and now i'm pulling my hair out trying to get it out. My numbers will have to be on hold for now. The only info i have is: startup oil pressure : 5.5Bar warm oil pressure : 3.5-4Bar