Gordo

If it's just a score or two, polish up the yoke, and insert it. If there is a lot of slop, the tail housing is toast, but if it has normal side to side movement, run it.

The Mazda guys are lucky, someone makes a roller bearing to fix that issue. Looked at one of my W58 builds to see if it would be possible, but there isn't enough material in the housing to machine it large enough for an off the shelf bearing. It could be saved by machining another sleeve bearing from bronze to replace the original pressed in one, but not cost effective if you don't have a buddy that owns a machine shop. To avoid having that happen again, that area has to be super clean, the yoke bearing surface 100% free of nicks or rust pits, and a lot of grease on installation.

Did you ever consider professional help, or doing a little less drugs ?

Would only change too things, Go full gold on wheels, and gold tinted mirrors. Nice attention to little shit.

1st, are you out of adjustment on the master cylinder push rod ? Or maybe have the wrong push rod ? Simple fix.... Never heard of anyone adding a master cylinder spacer to cure a push rod issue.... 2nd, put the damn rear seat down and load the weight farther forward. I can see the front is sitting higher due to all the weight being behind the rear axle. Carried more weight than that in my '76 Corona wagon.

Nice find ! Just took the number, and found it on eBay for $40 less, from 100% feedback seller. Was dreading running new brake lines for my compound brake system using the $50 flaring set that I have.

Wish in one hand, shit in the other, then see which fills up first....

I need a....... Wait, No have 2 spares that I forgot about. How about a........ Scratch that, have at least 3 of those. Guess I'm good on spares ☺️

The rod from your peddle to master may be adjusted too long, not letting the lines to fully vent back to the master.

What diameter are those (in other words, do you have lady hands, or NBA hands) ?

Na, haven't lost my mind yet, so I still call out bull shit when I see it.

You had me going for a second..... Diff looked like aluminum.

Cool shit ! Waiting for the crumpled rear fender, because 'DRIFT'.

So, 7 years later, You had mediocre caliper 'upgrade' brackets made for a Cressida ? Have you lost your mind ? Now I could understand if they were for some really large rotors, but..... Most halfway performance cars these days have much larger rotors when they are sitting on the dealer showrooms.

My un-sprung never chatters.... Chatter comes from good, soft, mushy engine & diff mounts, and/or a really fucked up flywheel. I do get a nice cling a cling cling sound if I am at a stop light with the clutch in, barely noticeable over my exhaust note. That isn't chatter, it's just they way those clutches sound.

They hardly ever wear... I think they publish min. thickness, and I probably have it save in one of my 'info' files, but don't know which one out of hundreds to look at.

You can try what I sent in a PM, but that was before I seen the damage. Sorry, don't have any spindles.

When I first put one in my Datsun, it was a bit of a pain because of it being like an on/off switch. But as soon as I put a coaxial hydraulic throw out in it, all those issues went away. You may consider doing that, and shit canning the external slave/arm set up.

Sorry, none around, even after scrapping 3 X8s

I am impressed. Was thinking I was going to see some chinese dual plate, and after reading NAC's latest post, I am in ass chewing mode. Good to see someone with class still exists on the HMS Titanic.

That will be very difficult, since there are 3 round holes that need to be cut, but if you want to try, PM your address, and next week I will get the patterns to you. You might consider taking them to a sheet metal shop to have them cut the holes ☺️

If you have some way to cut sheet metal, I can send you out a tracing of my patterns for the reinforcement plates.

Hm, never broke mine.... The only thing that breaks is where the diff bolts into the rear cross member, and that isn't cured by the different housing, since everyone who has done it still uses the 2-bolt rear cover. And the Supra rear diff housing hits the front of the cross member, setting up a bad drive shaft angle issue, that people chose to ignore, probably because they don't understand how the harmonics created by doing this destroys transmissions. On my first X8 I addressed this by modifying the subframe, so the diff sat at the correct angle. The breakage issue at the rear cure has been well documented, just see my build thread.

The guy hasn't been here for 4 months......

Ha, Wes is doing my Cressida oil pan mod :-) Or he is have that idiot at Beach Performance doing them, which means he does not have the most important trap door 😞 Those wings hold aprox. 1 qt. each, and come from Speedway Motors, about $20 each.