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Dewback9

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Everything posted by Dewback9

  1. UPDATE: 1.) Get the 7M running and the car drivable 2.) REMOVE 7M and fill with gun powder 3.) Buy 20 yards of detonator cord 4.) Light fuse 5.) Now the 7M has been put to good use Well I picked this thing up Monday night for $380. It's an '89 Bloody Diarrhea Maroon on Maroon MX83 with just a hair over 150,000 miles. It ran, but really rough, and was structurally sound throughout. The guy was asking $500 and said the 'motor blew' about a month ago and the car had been sitting ever since. I obviously knew that around 150,000 miles the head gasket blows, so once I heard it run and a sweet smelling white cloud of smoke billowed out of the tail pipe, I knew it was only a minor fix. I used the "blown motor" story to my advantage and got the guy down to $380, which is a great deal. The chassis was my main concern and it seems as if this car was never driven in a Michigan winter. Our roads get caked with salt and we also live in a region that gets a lot of mixed precipitation, so there's lots of slush and wet nasty stuff in the spring and fall. That mixed with lake effect snow absolutely destroys the underside of any car and surprisingly enough this thing is mint underneath. Ascetically it also has minimal rust, with the only bad spot being the bottom corner of the driver's side quarter panel behind the rear tire, which is a rusted through slot about 6" x 1.5". Other than that and two surface rust spots at the top of the rear arches and a few cracks (down to the metal) in the paint and a few dings/dents the body is straight. The interior is in great shape as well. Aside from all of the seats being torn/cracked everything else is in really good condition. The dash is perfect, power everything works, and the headliner is in great shape as well. It even has all 4 floor mats, owners' manual, spare, and even the jack, which all usually get lost along the way. The only thing missing is one of the wheels since the previous owner to the current one left it at the tire shop when it was getting a nail puncture repaired. I was also fortunate enough to pick up everything that's needed for a manual swap 4th of July weekend out of a ’91 MK3 Turbo. I got the clutch, tranny, driveshaft, diff, and oil cooler for a measly $150. I've already torn down both the tranny and diff and they are in immaculate condition. I'm planning on beefing up the tranny with billet shift forks and 1st gear thrust washer from Marlin Crawler so I know the bitch won't break. Hopefully I can get the parts within the next few weeks and get it back together and in the car so I can make the last few local events of the season and start to learn how to slide. So what are my plans you may ask? Well my intentions of buying it in the first place were to: 1.) Have a second car so I can work on the Subaru and not have to rely on it being drivable every single day and 2.) Have a play/project car that I can do basically whatever the hell I want with since it was dirt cheap to get into. With that being said what I have always wanted is a drift car. I have AWD and ~190hp of NA glory in the Subaru, which means that getting it to lose traction is quite a challenge. It either needs snow on the ground or it needs to be raining really hard until I can have some fun and slide around a bit. So now with this car I can cheaply make a fun, fast, and radically different RWD monster that no one will know what it is as it pulls away with a cloud of smoke behind it roasting the tires through 3rd gear. So anyway that's my ultimate goal/plan for the car and the tentative short term time-line I'm going to follow should be something like this: 1.) Get the 7M running and the car drivable 2.) Put in the semi-built R154 and diff and convert to manual 3.) Get rear sway bar, S14? Springs or cut stock ones, mod tie-rod connection for more angle and install seats/wheel 4.) Drift like a madman with AC & leather Once it's driving and back in running order I'll begin to either build up a 2J or the suspension, but I haven't decided yet. I might even do paint/aero over the winter as well but who knows. It's all up in the air right now. I just want the damn thing to run, which should be tonight since I've been working on it every single night after work to tear it down and get at the head gasket. After that I'll start thinking about what is going to happen next. Anyway onto the pics (sorry for shitty phone quality): Donor '91 MK3: Everything seemed to be in good condition: Giving the diff a "Massage & Pedicure": All the bullshit we could get out in 4 hours: Got a free repair manual too: Opened up the tranny & everything looks great: The shadiest repair shop in the hood of Grand Rapids, MI just so happened to have a Cressida out front for sale: The tow rig: First night home: We got the intake and fan off and started working on pulling the intake manifold. Not to shabby for 2 hours of work on a car I've only ever seen once before and it didn't even have a 7M. And now as of last night: Pulled everything but the head studs. I didn't have a 10mm allen bit, otherwise it would have been off: And finally my bitchin' height adjustable, stainless steel topped work bench complete with an easel and work light I got for free from my buddies work that was cleaning house and threw it out. Nothing was wrong with it except it "looked nasty & old" but otherwise still functioned just fine. It lowers down to about 3" and raises up to about chest height:
  2. Dewback9

    My Couch Pulls Out, I Don't: The Resurrection

    I guess it’s about time I give an update…..the resurrection continues…. Oval tips go WOOWOOOOO…. Next on the list is turbo, injectors, new exhaust manifold and another set of rear wheels. Plan is to get it on the road by spring 2023. The saga continues…
  3. Dewback9

    My Couch Pulls Out, I Don't: The Resurrection

    Updates: Looks like I didn’t get fucked by DapexWorks after all. Fenders showed up 1 week after being shipped, so now I’m just waiting on the hood. The fenders were flown, so I’m assuming the hood is going to come by boat which is why it’s taking a bit longer. They’re nice, for the price at least, but they will definitely need some beefing up because of how thin they are. I’m waiting for the hood before I add the front corners but overall, I can’t complain. Here are some mock-ups and comparisons to Keith’s stock fenders: The flares are going to end up aligning perfectly with the top edge, which is what I wanted and will look great. Overall, the fenders added another 1”, which will help bring the fronts out to be more even with the rears. I also started trimming the flairs a bit and got the rears pretty much where they should be so now I just have to deal with the lower piece that goes on the skirt. The fronts are almost there, but I haven’t touched the DApex fenders yet, so the flares are a bit forward of where they will actually be. In other news, I’ve been busy ordering all sorts of cool shit: Finally found a set of my personal unicorn wheels in 18” the other day and in a decent width so I’ll be able to at least mock up proper specs with some cheap slip on spacers before ordering new lips/barrels: I also found a set of aftermarket RUCA’s so I don’t have to deal with just adding bushings to the OEM junk: Also on order are a set of the Acostal front castor brackets so I don’t have to hack something together using the thin OEM garbage with the PBM Limit Break arms. Considering how hard I’m going to beat on this thing, I’m better safe than sorry and why not, more cool shit. Last but certainly not least are brakes. I’ve been obsessing over what to do and I think I’ve finally settled on a solution. CTS-V 6 pots up front and then adapt my current set of Z32 fronts for the rears. Should be a simple set of easy to make aluminum adapters and I’ve been looking for an excuse to pick up a mini mill anyway, so fuck it. I still need to decide on the second rear set for the hydro, so I’m not sure what I’m going to do. I want beefy rear rotors, so I’m not sure if Z32 rears will be wide enough. Might just do a dual set of Z32 fronts and be done with it. That’s all for now, but it’s official. I’ve gone over the edge and don’t give a shit anymore. I’m building a 3,200lbs F1 car.
  4. Dewback9

    My Couch Pulls Out, I Don't: The Resurrection

    It will be anything but "de-tuned". I meant that more in the sense of having creatures comforts and not a stripped out hardcore racecar. Overall, the goal is to (at most) max out what a stock block & R154 can handle which, conservatively, is well known to be somewhere in the ballpark of ~700whp. I already have most of the NA-T stuff, minus an intake manifold and turbo, so right now I'm planning out how I want to setup the injectors & engine management. Massive injectors are notoriously shitty for low boost street driving, so I'm toying with the idea of running a dual rail, staged injector setup where I'll maintain the stock 230's as the primaries & then run something like a set of 650's upstream closer to the plenum. In theory, it should make for great street manners but when you give it the business it wakes right up. Only caveat is you now have to tune & sync 12 injectors instead of 6 but that ain't my problem, it's the tuners. I've already found a reasonably priced source for the manifold, so now it's down to figuring out what'll be the most reliable engine management solution that isn't astronomically expensive. Another idea I've always thought would be fun to try, and along the same lines as staged injectors, is a compound turbo setup where you blend a small & large turbo setup together where the smaller one comes on first to help fill out & flatten the torque curve to minimize lag until big momma starts cookin. Again, it suffers from the same added complexity & lack of support because they are so difficult to get right, but they are fuckin awesome. On the flipside turbo tech has come a long way with things like the Borg Warner EFR & billet wheels where they've been able to minimize a lot of the drawbacks larger turbos used to have, so doing a compound setup today might be nothing more than trying to win a dick swinging contest. As you can see, I've had 10 long, daydreaming years of space shuttle syndrome & how to theoretically build the best turbo setup I can think of. I'm pretty sure we are thinking of the same person, because I remember the same thing. I've seen it on a couple of 240's and it looked like a great setup. BN makes really nice stuff, but like you said, I did notice some thin spots in the corners so I will be beefing it up where needed.
  5. Dewback9

    My Couch Pulls Out, I Don't: The Resurrection

    Out of necessity to make room for the front mount & the state of my original bumper beam, I need to do a custom tube style with a support skeleton that'll go around the mouth and along the lower lip. I don't plan on trashing the car, but it will see regular track time abuse, so I want something that'll hold up & look nice. Dzus fasteners, quick release pins, etc. where needed plus it'll make mounting the oil & trans coolers and undertray a hell of a lot easier. Although I haven't been drifting since the car was mothballed, I have been crap-can racing in the 24hrs of LeMons on & off ever since, so I wanna have a multipurpose car that isn't just some drift missile shitbox. My overall vision is something along the lines of "If Toyota homologated the X8 in period, what would that look like?" Think BMW 3.0 CSL Batmobile & E30 M3 Evo, Mercedes190E Evo & CLK GTR etc. etc. De-tuned racecar for the street with lots of trick parts but "comfy enough" for the street. Now you can appreciate why I've had a bit of space shuttle syndrome with the car.
  6. Where'd you pick up the bushing? Been looking around for these and can't seem to find a supplier outside of Australia. Price looks to be around $35 USD + shipping. Went through the Merc cross-reference list on the mbparts site & the only bushing available is PN 204-352-00-27 that goes in the end of the LCA & is $65. The lower bushing in the hub looks to be an NLA part apparently. Digging around, I also found these from FIGS engineering in Colorado: JZX90/100 REAR LCA KNUCKLE BEARING JZX90/100 TRAC LINK KNUCKLE BEARING Although a bit steep on price, they look pretty nice.
  7. Dewback9

    My Couch Pulls Out, I Don't: The Resurrection

    I saw your thread and hopefully don’t get fucked. They sent a confirmation video almost immediately of the parts in stock ready to go so who knows. Maybe the pandemic made them get their act together to actually follow through on orders but only time will tell. I’ll keep everyone posted on my order status.
  8. Dewback9

    My Couch Pulls Out, I Don't: The Resurrection

    Kit is authentic BN Sports ordered through Mastermind/Faction Motorsports at the end of December 2020, delivered June 16th, 2021. Originally they quoted 5 mos. lead time but it ended up being around 5 1/2 mos. The flares are from Monsterservice out of Russian which are for the Mark II. Ordered second week of June 2020, delivered end of July 2020 (~6 weeks). Took about 3 weeks to make & 3 weeks ship time. I also just put in an order to DApexWorks for a hood, rear roof wing & a set of widened front fenders that have the correct Chaser sidelight cutout & Cressida rear edge. Hopefully the shipping lead time is the same as Monsterservice since they're coming from Russia as well. BTW, they now have a Paypal option so no more worrying about wiring money to some stranger in Russia & getting flagged by the FBI. As you can tell, the flares (especially in the rear) are gonna be a job to get them to fit correctly since the doors profile, door handle placement & rear quarters are different between the cars. On top of that, I need to figure out how I'm going to blend both ends of the skirts to the flares. I might just chop off the lower section of the front flares below the body molding line since that's the top edge of the skirts & that part of the flare was meant to hug the body anyway (see 3rd pic) but there might be a weird gap since that part of the flare is meant to curve into the rear of the wheel well as well. I'll wait to mess with that until the fenders show up & I can go from there. There's a lower piece of the rear flares that's not mocked up in the pics that will need to be blended to the rear of the skirts. The Monsterservice kit comes with taller OEM style skirts, so grafting it shouldn't be too hard if I take my time to not make it look like shit. I'm more concerned with the fit of the rear flares at the rear door line, so again, we'll see. Nothing is ever easy with these stupid cars, so I'm blazing my own trail. For an overall update, here's a quick overview to get everyone up to speed: As you guys know, I mothballed the car & my partial hoard of parts back around 2012 because I back then I was just a broke college student & couldn't fund my vision for the car for several years. I decided against doing "partial builds" along the way & instead chose to hold out, keep buying parts here & there and eventually build it the way I wanted. Well a few years turned into 5, then 7 and now it's pushing 10 years so I said to myself "Enough is enough. You have the money & aren't selling it so fuck it, let's do it." And...here we are. I'll start updating this more as the build progresses but I figured I'd get everyone up to speed on what's going on. Current plan is out with the straight piped, stripped out bassboat & in with a streetable yet fully capable & setup high horsepower track car i.e. full interior & AC for the street & a coolshirt setup for the track. First order of business is getting the stance/look of the car figured out since the fiberglass work will be the most annoying/time consuming and wait times on aero parts take the longest. After that, I'll turn my attention to the engine. So along with the aero stuff, I already have a full set of XM rear links & PBM S13 Limit Break front arms. The reason I went with the Limit Break arms (aside from the change in the front tension rod mount & added adjustability), was that I could use the extra length in the S13 arms with the wider front fender setup & still get the steering angle I want with added castor while still running baller deepdish wheels. I initially ordered just the front arms to start out, but after test fitting them to the car I found out a couple things: 1) I will need significantly longer inner tie-rods (even with the extended outer tie rod ends maxed out) And 2) Going to the absolute minimum length on the control arm by removing the extra "reinforcement sleeve/jam nut" & full positive on the camber plates still had camber at something north of -4 or -5 deg. so I will need the Limit Break tophats as well. I'll keep you guys updated as I figure out this front suspension & how the erector set goes together.
  9. Dewback9

    My Couch Pulls Out, I Don't: The Resurrection

    The hibernation is over and the resurrection has begun….
  10. Thought it would be worth a shot to see if anyone has either a Chaser front end or a kit they are wanting to get rid of. I'll be driving from Michigan to Phoenix next weekend for NYE and then again sometime in March or April, so between now and then if you're along the way let me know and I can swing by and pick it up. Let me know what (if anything) you guys have. Cash in hand.
  11. Dewback9

    My Couch Pulls Out, I Don't: The Resurrection

    Already has it: '03 Honda 954RR motorcycle engine. Bitch is going to RIP.
  12. Dewback9

    My Couch Pulls Out, I Don't: The Resurrection

    I guess it's that time again... Fall 2012: After Automass Rd. 2 last September, the car was forced into hibernation into the depths of the mancave garage. Crab had been doing LeMons the past few seasons in his MetSHO Gaguar, with my buddy Mike (Z31) on the team, so the conclusion of the 2012 season saw the MetSHO change hands over to Mike so Brian (Crab) could continue work on his next LeMons racer, a 1969 Subaru 360: The MetSHO then took the Cressida’s spot in the shop, so work could commence for the following season. At the same time I also decided that I needed a few new additions to my arsenal, so I picked up an HK USP 40 and a Bushmaster Carbon 15. My fall/winter/spring diet then consisted of MetSHO prepping and the destruction of washing machines. Spring/Summer 2013: The MetSHO is prepped, we run our first race at Gingerman Raceway in South Haven, MI and we do quite well. After the race we continue sorting out reliability issues, add a few upgrades and decided to retheme the car before the next race in Joliet, IL later in the summer. Around that time I got wind that Keith was parting out the Cressida, so I jumped at the chance to help a buddy out and get a bunch of things I was in need of for my swap. Long story short, dong on titties. Monster Tajima's Pikes Peak Suzuki: MetSHO: http://blog.caranddriver.com/lemons-chicago-inspections-v6-swapped-geo-metro-battle-of-the-century-iron-duke-racers-prepared-for-glory/ http://blog.caranddriver.com/lemons-chicago-day-one-camaro-somehow-leads-v6-metros-skirmish/ Fall 2013: Things have now slowed down after the summer and I realized how much I missed drifting and driving my car. It has more or less sat in the garage for almost an entire year while I worked away my life, found many other things more important than enjoying a 25 yr old POS Cressida that thinks it’s a bass boat, and raced an amazing season in LeMons. I think in the back of my head I really just wanted to wait until it was turbo’d before getting back at it and attending events again, which is why I have been acquiring all of my parts over the past year. I only need a few more things and I will have everything that I need, so my plans for the fall/winter include FINALLY doing my NA-T swap, tying up loose ends and redoing a few things that I halfassed just to get the thing driving and on the road. MetSHO Build Thread: http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index.php?topic=29727.0 360 Build Thread: http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index.php?topic=36489.0
  13. Dewback9

    Front end shakes? Snap rings

    I get a weird ass shake at ~45mph cruising and it can be pretty violent at times and the car has done it since I've owned it. Would this be the shake you speak of?
  14. Dewback9

    My Couch Pulls Out, I Don't: The Resurrection

    Massive update coming soon
  15. Dewback9

    My Couch Pulls Out, I Don't: The Resurrection

    I think I'll just leave these here...
  16. Dewback9

    2JZ-GE vs 2JZ-GTE Information

    I still don't understand why more people don't use a GE engine and go to town. If you plan on doing a badass turbo setup, why deal with a bunch of shit you'll end up get rid of. That was my logic behind getting a 2JZ-GE. I would have a nice platform to start with and then I could pick and choose exactly what I wanted to do with it. Chris I've also heard about the debate with the oil squirters. A lot of guys end blocking them off when they are north of 700hp because they start to have issues which makes sense. Both blocks are nearly bullet proof up to about 900hp, and if you are lucky enough to get a low mileage engine (mine had like 85k when I swapped,) you won't even have to touch the bottom end. Theres also a thread on one of the supra forums going into detail with the flow characteristics of the 3 heads (GTE, GE, AND 1JZ) and they are quite different throughout the RPM range. The GE head flows better in the mid range compared to the GE, which makes sense for it being NA. I think a ported GE head is the way to go if you plan on going turbo with it. The intake ports are also quite different. I found this out first hand when trying to install my Driftmotion FFIM. A few of GE ports are slightly off, which will require some slight modification in order to get it to fit correctly. The longer runners also put the plenum too close to te brake booster in a Cressida, and even bashing it in doesn't allow for enough clearance, so the runners actually need to shortened in order to accommodate the different plenum, as well as relocating the fuse box in the engine bay.
  17. Dewback9

    My Couch Pulls Out, I Don't: The Resurrection

    TO THE WINDOOOOOW...TO THE WALL!
  18. I would agree, as am I. It's hard to do both and I don't blame him. I guess I'm just a little excited to finally be able to drag skirts at the track
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