bwcress
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Posts posted by bwcress
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did you plug in the starter? did you hook the power wire back to the starter? did you check your efi fuse in the engine bay fuse box?
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I run a wildwood adjustable unit if you really want I cant post up pics later
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lol... 15k isn't that bad for a trans right?
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You are drunk too lol... get some nascar box and make an adapter plate for half the price
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I like how you are all talking about hp numbers like that shit matter... something like a turbo uz will produce tourque in places an sr never will... I see where you are coming from with the feel and price but id rather change my trans once every 3 years for $500 then once ever 6 months for $100 do the math the Toyota trans is still cheaper... whatever floats your boat... or rows your gears I should say
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Austin you are fuckin drunk!! ka or sr trans before an r154? ive seen atleast 5 sr trannies explode on a stock hp sr... ive also seen soo many ka trans do all sorts of crazy shit like while in gear layin into the pedal an a 450hp ka-t setup 3rd gear sheer the teeth right off... mate those things to something that makes actual tourque sounds like money wasted to me... im sorry you've had trouble with some beatup r154s but ive seen atleast 20 in my personal experience (infront of my own eyes) hold 700hp ALL DAY LONG
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Well I have a billet wheel holset HX40 with a bullseye .63 hotside housing... i dunno if that's what youre looking for its deff not as small as a gt30 but it is smaller then your 35r
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Gibbs in all seriousness you've probably never made more the 430 to the wheels im not even gonna talk about your actual torque numbers so your experience with w58s is irrelevant not to be a dick i just hate shitty advice... but the torque that would be produced buy a turbo UZ that's properly setup would grenade a w58 on command
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I really hope your just trollin or your just a complete idiot
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Real talk though nut up and buy an r154 especially if your going to go through with this turbo uz... youll just bolt a w58 to something like that and it will grenade the second you tighten the last bolt lol
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that's trans is gonna explode... just figured id be the first to tell you... good luck
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yea really lol... total price shipped to 10310? and is this the correct bumper for the Cressida headlights? I cant tell between the 4 of them
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can you take a picture with the door open I think it looks awesome and one of my quarters are fucked... thinkin about makin this happen for next season
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Im not sure about clearance to the coilover but you could deff fit am 18x10 +30ish with a 275 and 0 camber with minor fender work and depending on your height you may not need to cut out the inner skins
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Ive seen plenty of RB's 20,25,26 I don't care what it is... if you look at all the ass backwards shit they have especially the 26 it would make me wanna fly to japan and stab the engineering team responsible for it in the neck multiple times with a rusty screwdriver
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deff don't need flares... depends on what offset and look you are going for... how much camber youre gonna run... I run 245/40/18 on an 18x10 +20 I dunno the "backspacing" with 0 camber but I cut the inner fender out and have a decent pull
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I can feel it... that's why he wont post engine pics... the death squad is just waiting for the ok
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still waiting for jz... and if you turn around and drop some Nissan crap in it I will send a death squad to your house
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Figured it out... one of the solder joints for the b1 plug broke and after I fixed it the reason the injectors were running wide open was I had the harness unwrapped to look things over and I guess over time on of the injector wires rubbed though its coating and it was grounding out against the inside of the intake manifold... Problem solved... thanks for all the input and quick responses
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Pretty sure I figured the b1 plug out as per a pm from kyle back in the day.. now here's my issue injectors 3, 4 and 5 are jus fillubg the cylinders with fuel... 1,2 and 6 appear to be running normal... 1 should the injectors have continuity to ground say a strut tower bolt if b1 is unplugged? 2 is it possible I somehow fried 3 injectors? If so why?
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Was just looking through the ewd for the chassis and I believe the plug im talking about is the b1 plug
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Ok so I think I found the issue... a shitty solder joint from when I switched from a 91 chassis to a 90... so now I have a new issue and want to clear something up... when you wire up the harness at the round plug (square plug on 91 and up) that goes into the fuse box what goes where? all the wires are black and red but they are not all the same. if you guys need pics or something to determine what plug im talking about exactly I will gladly post them up
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Just checked cams did not snap... kyle when you say igf I'm assuming you mean igniter feedback which would be pin 78 on my ecu and pin 3 on the small plug on my igniter just checked that and its got continuity from plug to plug... gonna throw the intake manifold back on and see if I can't get it to run on starting fluid to completly verify that its deff the injectors not firing
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No it wasn't the first drive... only code I get n is an o2 code because ita noy plugged in I've checked continuity for both cam sensors to the ecu plug and also the crank sensor everything seems to check out fine
☆☆☆ CRIMSON BROWN-PIE vvti 1jz ☆☆☆
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looking good... get a good crank pulley especially if the thing is gonna see limiter a lot(drifting) helps ease the vibrations in the crank(spun bearings)