Big Fuckin Shooter

The car is in good hands, and is getting some much needed improvements under the hood. In other news, I am idiot. 110k original kilometres. Zero rust. I will probably just flip it for a meaty profit. Maybe I will do dumb teenager things. Who knows.

Last week, like every other week for the past 8 months, has been spent finishing the last year of my law degree. Plus it's Canada, so last week it was also still snowing.

Oh ya, from last fall btw: https://www.instagram.com/p/BCDoq6bL4EC/?taken-by=jett_the_drift_dog Got the car working right, and handed it down to my bro who will actually have time to enjoy driving it.

Problem solved. Car is a beast now. I didn't realize that checking timing by the loop of wire inside the igniter connector shell would give me incorrect readings. Checked timing with a spark plug wire between the first coil and plug and it was at about 15*. LET'S GO

After checking for continuity between the grounds for the cam and crank sensors the crank sensor was wired backwards. Misfire seems to be gone. Haven't driven it yet to see if IDL1, NSW or STA fixed the 4k RPM stutter. However, timing is still way advanced. I'm seeing 30-35* at idle, 25* in diag mode. Any ideas what else to check next? Cam and crank sensors all tested within the acceptable range of resistance.

Holy fuckin shit. IDL1 wasn't populated either, the person who previously assembled my harness while I was too busy with school pinned it into one of the body connectors. Pinned it into the ECU, didn't seem to change much in terms of running at idle. Still has a miss, timing is still at 50* cold. However, I now have a code 13, which is fucked because I just swapped an out of spec crank sensor for an in spec one. The saga continues. EDIT: Also forgot to mention, sometimes the car fires up on the first or second turn of the starter, and other times it feels like it's trying to fire on the compression stroke and takes a few more cranks of the starter to actually start. Seems more and more like an ignition timing related issue.

No those pins aren't populated. Should they be?

Alright, so ever since getting my car running again this summer it's been having random misfiring issues and hitting a major stutter under boost at about 4-4500 RPM. I've pretty much reached the end of my rope with trying to diagnose what the fuck the issue is, so I figured I'd ask here to see if you guys had any other ideas of what it could be before I burn it to the ground. Here's the background on the car: 1991 JZX81 Mark II 1.5JZ (GTE block) JZZ30 M/T ECU 440cc Aristo Injectors w/ stock FPR & JZA80 TT fuel pump Things I have already tried to solve the issue: New BKR7E plugs gapped to 0.28 New Aftermarket Coilpacks, heatshrinked (also tried running it on an OE set which are known to be good) Can't isolate the miss by pulling coilpack plugs, it seems completely random Checked Coilpack plugs/wiring - good Checked Injector plugs/wiring - good Compression tested cylinders 1-6: 153, 153, 166, 167, 164, 153 Pressurized the intake system to 100 psi, no boost or vacuum leaks Swapped ECU and Igniter for known good ones Checked cam and crank sensors, cam sensors were in spec (F - 1301 ohms, R - 1260), crank was out of spec (1453), so I replaced it with a spare (2230). Grounded NSW and STA pins on the ECU Mechanical timing marks are lined up correctly Not throwing any codes besides Oxygen sensor (Code 21) - EDIT: Since changing crank sensor to one within spec it is now throwing code 13. Have not tried another MAP sensor yet. Symptoms: Car idles relatively smooth when it's cold, but as soon as it gets warm it misses pretty badly. When revved up to around 4k ish in neutral the engine hits a misfire/hiccup. Under load it hits a bad stutter at 4-4500 and ~7 PSI, feels kind of like boost cut but harder. Holds 10 PSI after getting past the stutter up to redline but feels like it's still stuttering, and like something is holding it back. Runs fine when just cruising, no hint of a miss under 4k RPM (although it is running kind of lean). Ignition timing shows 35-45* advanced when engine is cold, 50-60* advanced when warm which is way too fucking high. AFR is between 15-16 at idle, 14-15 cruising, 10 or richer under boost. Plugs are clean white/grey in colour, little to no soot, so its lean as fuck. I don't know what else to check to diagnose the issue. My next plan of attack is to just find an unmolested JZZ30 Soarer harness and swap it in since my harness is 25 years old and has been converted to run 3 different setups and cut/spliced/soldered so many times that something could be fucked, although I've checked it pretty thoroughly and can't seem to find anything obvious. Ideas?

It's legal to drive it, but the traffic cops here make it their mission to fuck with car enthusiasts, especially those with right hand drive cars, by pulling us over and requiring us to have full light vehicle inspections if they can find ANYTHING on your car that doesn't meet standards. For example they can subjectively say that because it appears you have ANY negative camber, just by eyeballing, that your alignment must be fucked and therefore your car is unfit to be on the road and must undergo a full inspection before it can be allowed back on the road again. I have seen them do this to a brand new bone stock M3, it's ridiculous. So if I get the wrong cop on the wrong day, he would look over my car with a fine toothed comb and pull it off the road because my headlights aren't DOT stamped. Anyways I got it back on the road without having to change to DOT/USDM headlights so that's cool. Apparently licensed mechanics don't view it as being as much of a safety issue as the cunt traffic cops do.

I had a code 13 when one of my cam sensors was on its way out. Check the resistance of your cam and crank sensors against factory values and swap out the bad one for a good one and your problem should disappear. Don't know what the range is for sensor resistance anymore but I'm sure someone on here does.

Just a heads up to any Canadians about the Supra bushings: Toyota tried to charge me over $100 CDN (About $7 US right now...) for a new bushing. They're not cheap. Although it may just be that my local dealer is a fuck. But yeah, make sure you get a quote before you order.

Man that almost looks like my car before I went and fucked with it. I like. Also considering doing spring Matsuri 2016 as a grad gift to myself. I might hit you up for some tips.

Cool. Thanks Gordo. So the eyelet further to the front of the car is a direct fit for the supra bushing while the eyelet furthest to the rear is wider in diameter and requires a pressed in sleeve for the bushing to fit correctly, is that right?

So you're saying that the bushing for the front hole of the Supra rear knuckle is a direct fit in the rear hole of the X8 knuckle?

Anyone ever figure out what else will work?