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battleaxe

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Everything posted by battleaxe

  1. battleaxe

    2JZGE VVTi Clutch/Flywheel

    I'm having a bit of a problem trying to find this info..and hoping theres still some ppl who frequent this forum enough. I'm looking to get the clutch and flywheel for my 2JZGE VVTi. From what I am reading its specific to your trans? I'll preface this by saying I was looking for 5spd IS300 clutch flywheel and then started to see the part numbers were different from the MKIV Supras. So as I looked on, I understood the IS300 have W55? which are a bit smaller and why the part numbers were usually 3 digits off? I assume they're a bit smaller for flywheel and clutch due to trans size? but not sure how that affects anything but the starter motor. Rock auto has all the MKIV Supra NA 2J bits which would be for a W58, but then I have a "IS300" motor and starter...then again the bellhousing I have all I know is its JZ to W, which I assume is the same for all W's pattern. I believe my bell is from a Supra. The plan was to just get a LUK flywheel as its like $80 on rock auto and theres still 1 Aisin clutch kit on there. I dont plan to go turbo and I would like it to feel stockish. I debated a light flywheel but they're not easy to get locally and would be costing me $300+cdn for a comp clutch one which iirc was one of the cheaper available.
  2. battleaxe

    2JZGE VVTi Clutch/Flywheel

    Done some reading and will share as I may need to refer in future. Is300 has a dual mass flywheel, if reusing you get the dual mass longer flywheel bolts. If you change to the supra flywheel you need the shorter supra flywheel bolts. Jz pressure plate for jz. Clutch depends on what box is behind it, for spline count and size. If using the dual mass the clutch slave should work for it, if you're going to a thinner flywheel you will need the longer push rod for the flywheel. All depends on your setups and I assume if you're using a is300 w55 and it's overall length. If supra use supra as the oem flywheel isn't dual mass (w58) the getrag/turbo have dual mass, from my understanding.
  3. battleaxe

    Curse of the Cressida

    i appreciate that Gordo. Its coming along...slowly. might upload some of the old photos of it actually driving and not sitting in my garage. S chassis seem to come in 3 varieties, abused to shit with things falling/hanging off them, show cars with "drift style", usually decently maintained, and then the unicorns, painted one colour, with fitted wheels and time and care put into all the bits. im somewhere between the 3 of them. i hope to have this thing looking decent (for once) and then go drifting again in it, i miss it a lot actually. i have a few more tasks before i can put it outside and get started on the supra and swap in that 2j finally. got a few more parts to collect then ill put the harness on the motor and start to put the wiring loom together, then pull the 5m and start mocking up the motor .
  4. battleaxe

    Curse of the Cressida

    I've had this car since July 7, 2012. I bought it from a good friend of mine, Matt Peterson, hes an old member on here and for the most part got out of cars. I bought it with a 1JZ running, but would buck at mid to high rpm. Had a fmic, full 3inch exhaust, intake, fuel pump. no gauges, only gauge that works was the digi dashs' fuel gauge. Once I bought it I cleaned it up and made a gauge pod in the dash, my first fiberglassing project. Once the gauges were in and working I found that the car was overboosting to 24+psi on the stock twins, I drove it essentially out of boost for 4 or so months as a daily driver, then took it off the road to do little by little upgrades...that turned into nearly 4yrs off the road. I ended up changing just about everything on the motor. Left the motor and trans in the car and changed everything attached to it.
  5. battleaxe

    Curse of the Cressida

    couple more tasks sorted. finally made a bracket to hold the fuse boxes under the dash and have a functioning glove box. i had to source an issue with my wipers/headlights constantly popping up. couldnt find why it was doing that and so traced it to a wire at the wiper motor and depinned it, and now it works, but i only have one function of wipers..win for now..will go back to it when i rewire the car when im 50yrs old. i need to move on from this and get the supra in here and do weekend jobs on the s13 instead of being a statue. put the passenger seat in finally, last job in the interior is to take the back two bride seat holders on the driver seat and mod them so the rear can go down one more peg. then back to the engine bay to shorten the wiper motor and windshield sprayer wires, loom them. then trans wiring and proper holder for the clutch line on the bottom, and adjust the iacv i put back in and see if i can adjust even though the plastic screw is .. screwed. finally got a sandwich plate for the civic so i could put the oil cooler in. i got the cooler with fittings from a friend and built the system around it. luckily all the hard stuff was tight, but the 1/2inch npt aluminum cooler to npt/-10 fitting leaked and then when trying to remove it, it galled, so warren at bcworks bailed me out again and tig'd it up to become one. i modified the oem air guide to still sort of guide the air..sort of. its a long travel of line i know but theres a lot of spinning things on that side..should be fine..lots of added capacity is how i think of it. oh and a new koyo rad, new hose clamps and a rad cap. the oem oil filter doesnt fit no more, luckily i have so many cars and the sr20 oil filter just fits, sadly its a bit smaller. oh well. while im at it, heres a picture of my garage currently. i got more lights at the work bench. and lastly for black friday i bought a bunch of stuff, including this link storm x with connectors and a loom for the cressida so both JZs will use this same ecu. supra is the next project. should start early in the new year perhaps? spring? iunno
  6. battleaxe

    Gordo's X8 Ramblings

    i was legit excited for ANY content update and was surprised by a semi butthole and a cooter. welcome, but not what i came for.
  7. battleaxe

    New Look / Same Poor Taste

    I've got a 2pc and had the vibrations. Multiple sets of wheels. I don't think I've gone that fast since putting the re71rs on. I don't remember it last time I drove it. Iunno
  8. battleaxe

    New Look / Same Poor Taste

    Yes, a capable shop is hard to come by. I don't understand why it's so hard especially if you "specialize" in drivetrain
  9. battleaxe

    Curse of the Cressida

    not toyota related but... been taking some time off from cars outside of washing them and checking fluids and tire pressures. after this black friday, ive got a number of tasks to do. got a link storm x on order for the supra and cressida (shared same ecu, 2 harnesses), oil filter sandwich plate and koyo for the civic, now i can add my large oil cooler to the civic to get that oil nice and luke warm. so the plan is to collect the last bit of parts for the na 2j swap and then get cracking on the s13 and the misc tasks. first up was the max camber in the back so i can clear the arches. sadly at max camber the stance rucas foul the coils, i even flipped them around. this led to a lot of yelling and then i said eff it and moved on to the toe part. plan is to get the alignment where it needs to be and deal with the arches after the fact. after that irritation i went to the front..to where i found more of it. i was unhappy with the gktech sphericals and that they used a aluminum shaft (as many do now a days) so i grabbed some v1 spl spherical outers and used the gk tech shank (i broke both of mine years ago) so now i have a hybrid front spherical and i matched it to the lca incline so they arent on 2 separate plains. next up was modding the brake holders..all because i had a broken bolt in one and then tried to drill and tap it out and its still wrong...so i lopped that side off..odd idea/conclusion to come to? you bet. check for clearances for the new outer, brake holder actually being there and max angle at full droop 18x10-12 with a 225/35 s drive (looks bigger than it is) the end links are oem? i cut them shorter as a test as one was bent so i cut it in half and shortened it, feels good still? thats firewall clearance as there is no more harness going there and i smashed it back put it back down, rolled it around, noticed the rear toe adjusted is far in the other direction now, so more on that later. went in my bin of misc oem washer bottles, found a hole down low and this honda crv coolant overflow "works", whether it actually works, time will tell. got a generic one off amazon for $12, shortened the bottom port and capped it. drolled a hole in the side and pushed the grommet and washer pump in, ran the line through the fender rail and comes out by the motor. this time yesterday i found a gremlin traced back to the wipers. thats a whole other story and well its rather funny but i cant tell stories. the bracket was an oem bracket from something i kept in a bin. i cut it to size, knocked some holes in it and then welded some old m6's on there as i have no clearance. looks alright and will be nice to have washer fluid again, the little things, you know? idea is to do stuff then do other stuff, then do other stuff and so on
  10. battleaxe

    New Look / Same Poor Taste

    damn ya man, how much are those r boxes new? 2-2500? id imagine a standard rebuild is in the 1k range. in cdn money anyways
  11. battleaxe

    Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia

    toe out in the front on a daily, u a wild man. looks fabulous as always. i appreciate the rear bumper repair and fitment, very nice. as much as i love all the same wheels, and how they will all fit perfect and run one tire size, i cant get over variety. you chose a very nice set of wheels for daily and spares man.
  12. battleaxe

    Curse of the Cressida

    Got damn. A partner trying to kill you is another kind of life problem. If I was in a position to retire I'd take time off to catch up on projects and then maybe go back to work..or sleep for a bit. I'm just trying to empty all my bins and spend only on things to complete my projects..or sell em.
  13. battleaxe

    Curse of the Cressida

    damn man, i appreciate that. i person ally would love to see more of your fleet and the things you do. I'm not a big fan of bolt this on and bolt that on, but half of what I do is just that. Or engineering something I have to work with what I have. Mcgyver syndrome
  14. battleaxe

    Curse of the Cressida

    put a new fuel pump relay in the supra. now the pump turns on when put to ign. i think because the car had a cold start injector that i had eliminated 6yrs ago the fuel pump only ever turned on when cranking so it always felt semi carburated. then after chasing the fueling issues over the past couple years, it led us to the fuel pump relay up front, this thing got very hot and then started to not work resulting in sputtering or not running at all. Finally put a relay in, used the oem wiring and now i have a direct to battery relay with an inline fuse and goes to my main fuse block incase something bad happens. went back to the 82 lights and put the spare wheels on for winter. finished up the cressida a little while ago and went drifting after driving it around town a bit. still has starting issues so im going to throw a bunch of grounds at it. the starter was rebuild and i had it checked. 100/100 starts he showed me without any hiccups. so i think my ground from my trans to chassis is poor...i really hope its something dumb like that. car ran great other than the power steering leaking out of the resevoir..still unsure if it was too hot, too pressurized or a leaky cap...but it was fine by the end of the day. needs an actual sway bar, the oem one is pathetic, you can bend it by hand lol. drifting non stop the peak values were all chill. 85c water temp, oil temp got to 100c and hits the 1bar of boost with no spikes. put the spares on for winter and now the s13. runs on 4cyl again after disconnecting the ecu, the ecu had some corrosion on the ecu terminal pins, so cleaned that up and now it runs on 4cyl instead of 2cyl lol. even on 2cyl it moved the car with ease, so strange. lots of tidy up and body work ahead.
  15. battleaxe

    Curse of the Cressida

    cressida is functioning, still needs some stuff, like the fans put on a thermo switch and not being on all the time. has beats, its aligned and has the same wheels and tires all around now. it was flat when i measured it before alignment, but now that it has the same wheels and tires, and ironically the same camber front and rear, i need to re measure and adjust. this photo was taken on a hill so its a bit loaded to the back. this car is a paradox. has re71r's in 215/45 all around, and runs -5 camber all around lol, wheel sizing is limited. thats 17x9 +17 all around and it barely fits. gotta be weary of tire and wheel sizing on this thing as the fitment is spot on and only has so much clearance in the back being a 4 door even after heavy mods to cut weld and move everything in the back.
  16. battleaxe

    Curse of the Cressida

    just shy of "better" now. just gotta put insurance on it, drive it, align it, drift and daily it. AEM meth container, just put in so i can clean up a bunch of my million of boxes and parts i have for all these cars. completed the passenger seat rail which is now a whole unit and not tabs, with working slider for driver and passenger, both painted in flat black cleaned the entire interior, no more musty smell. i pressure washed the carpet and then cleaned it again when i installed it. even cleaned all the metal/sound deadening before putting the the carpet in. gutted the rear seat to allow no damage to the newer, bigger power cable. all metal was cut back and sanded, then i added cut vacuum lines and fuel lines to cover all the metal to not damage the wire as well as making it lighter. cleaned up the weak power steering line from the reservoir to pump and added nice new clamps, checked fluids finished putting the interior back together and not totally finished, im happy with where it is right now put it outside and put the supra in the garage to make a 24/7 fuel pump relay and some other bits and pieces so i can finish the tires i got, this or next year. dailies bonus, got all 4 re71r's mounted and balanced on the bronze cr kais so those will go on when the car is aligned and maybe do a drift/grip thing so i can get used to it again. and my blitz techno speed that i curbed like 3? yrs ago and got it re balanced finally for the time being. also got the crv aligned after the recent suspension work
  17. battleaxe

    New Look / Same Poor Taste

    whatever driveshaft is in mine had this vibration as well, talked to another jzx83 guy as well and he too had this issue. mine steadies and unsteadies. i topped the car out where i felt i was going too fast to brake good and the vibration went away. i think mine is a oem mix up of parts. the other guy i talked to, same r box and jz, he has full sub and diff bushings and arms and changed driveshafts and its still there. i havent tested mine since removing all the slop but i think mine is in the driveshaft too. tried multiple wheels and tires as well. 😕
  18. battleaxe

    Curse of the Cressida

    i claybar'd and polished and wax'd this thing so now it feels nice again. i removed the hose clamp to this ae86 boot and drilled a hole and slit this old sway bar end link bush so it fits a lil better ran the new 0 gauge wire with the rca's and amp signal wire built a new battery tray, mounted the sub and amp. i love the music in here now but hate all the wires. did it as tidy as i could as i cant shorten the rcas. theres enough slack on it so i can un mount the sub and push to the back to remove. the aem meth kit will be behind the spare tire cover there, going to work on that today, pump will be below that. then run the wires and what not. got tired of it sitting in a box for like 10yrs. im looking for the oem carpet in the back as well, i may have a lead on that, wanna make it nice and oem in this car. Interior goes back in once I finish the seat rails and paint them. once all thats done, going for an alignment and hope to daily it and work out the bugs.
  19. battleaxe

    Sleeper MX83 build

    take this time to figure out your gun. your fan, fluid control etc. the dust in a lot of cases will wipe off with a tac rag. spraying base is about consistency so max that fan out and play with the volume. every gun and area is different for gun pressure. should be 15-25psi. 25psi is on the high end. if its blowing shit back at you, turn it down. take a step back and realize this isnt your day job and theres a reason why paint and body is so expensive. its why i tell ppl to do it last after they drive and enjoy the car, but thats not here nor there. once you realize everything sucks but a coat of paint that one colour will make you happy at the end of the day. i guarantee that coat of base will rejuvenate you. also remember you can spray the base and clear again after all of this if it doesnt turn out great and you can pay someone some day if you want it mint. focus on one step at a time and take a deep breath now and then. once its one colour you'll be happy to drive it around at least and then worry about perfection later. you'll learn a lot, no matter how much you kick and scream.
  20. battleaxe

    New Look / Same Poor Taste

    man i love how this is turning out. excellent work. love all the blacked out bits and the wastegate through the oem shield. very tidy.
  21. battleaxe

    Sleeper MX83 build

    Humidity doesn't cause orange peel. Orange peel comes from a variety of sources. Your gun, gun setup, the paint itself and how it flows, speed at which you spray, spraying too light, too far away. Humidity would cause paint defects due to airborne water in the air.
  22. battleaxe

    Sleeper MX83 build

    Keep in mind, you can only do so much. If using a tack cloth, get it kinda "dirty" first. The first few swipes of a tack clotch always have some kinda residue to it. Can use a microfiber too to grab all the bits. U pretty much can't fuck up until clear. Base coat just needs good coverage in terms of how many coats. Put your light all over the base to make sure you got good coverage. If it feels kinda rough after last coat that's likely overspray that settled on top. Once it's flashed off and dry to the touch, you can test an area for a tack cloth of microfiber. If it's not dry enough if will streak. Clear is medium coat first, and adjust for second coat. Some ppl do a tack coat, so super light, can have an issue not melting as good into the second coat. Read the instructions for the paint manufacturer for flash off times to apply second coat. When ppl say x coats of clear, that's not an accurate measurements of thickness cause every coat is different in thickness. U can take a paint measure stick if u want to accurately measure but no one will ever care. It's only relevant when wet sanding the clear or cut polishing.
  23. battleaxe

    Sleeper MX83 build

    High build should only be used to make a panel straight by blocking. For the inners I would just use a sealer as it is thin and does not need to be sanded after (if wet on wet) and makes the painting party easier. Any reason why you didn't just paint the entire inners if you went through the trouble of fully disassembling the whole door?
  24. battleaxe

    Sleeper MX83 build

    Wetting the floor has pros and cons. Can keep dust down, but also introduces humidity as well as the air hose will drag around and get dirty, wet and muddy. I'd personally do a good clean down before spraying. Broom, blow out, water out and squeegy or yolo it.
  25. battleaxe

    Sleeper MX83 build

    whatever booth you make without a roof, will just go around what you do have up. if you can make a poly roof, do it. get good air flow in there too. hope you got enough paint there. take your time. only part you can fuck up is the clear. too light and its hazy and lumpy. too heavy and it will run big time. you watch any youtube paint videos? i find them helpful. i watch motivated painters, the gunman, and bode vision. all very different ways to do that same thing. good luck
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