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About battleaxe

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    On an Island in the Pacific
  1. battleaxe

    Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia

    What's up with that kill switch location? I've always been worried about those pockets in the event I crush the 1/4. It's a real nice spot but worries the heck out of me.
  2. battleaxe

    Tuner4life's 1991 Cressida Drift Build

    Hey now, I did knuckles on the supra because it was a nessesity as stock angle was a sneeze. I now have stock ish s13 angle I think lol. I'm all about keep it simple stupid. FD cars are setup a certain way and outside that they're pretty useless...like an F1 car..they're specifically designed around being the best at certain things. Adding a rad to the back to me, isn't making it easier. A surge tank for fuel, man, this is something I'd like to implement in my cars but I drive to and from events and I would lose all my trunk space 😕 I think the angle mods are crutches more often than not, teaches you to be a better car setup person when you see why a car does what it does. But that's besides the point.
  3. battleaxe

    Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia

    With my longer lcas and tie rods the angle I have is already very similar to my s13 and it's knuckles I have for it. I doubt you would need more my dude. Maybe twin scroll setup is different? I have mine on the top port and get no creep and a solid 13psi. I would suggest checking the ports every so often if they're not welded on as they tend to back out
  4. battleaxe

    Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia

    i use the top port on my mvr , loc tit'd as they do tend to wiggle loose, and my reference is on my tb iirc. this seems very..extra...and u have 2 of them. im many confused. car looks good though. the lack of negative camber still weirds me out but thats another useless topic lol
  5. battleaxe

    Tuner4life's 1991 Cressida Drift Build

    but you literally do not need all of that angle. my x8 weighs 3200lbs and my s13 weighs 2600. if youre around a s13s 2600, congrats on knocking out 600 flippin lbs out man. iunno, you do you, but this sounds like a cookie cutter "fd build" and they do it for weight placement and cooling i guess but is completely unnecessary..however, doing all this stuff, you will learn a bunch. iunno why you would want so snappy transitions...guess ive been driving these tanks all year that ive forgotten what a "snappy" transition is.
  6. battleaxe

    Tuner4life's 1991 Cressida Drift Build

    why you doing tube frame stuff in the front and rear tho? rear rad? weight loss is always a plus. with my longer LCAs/tie rods and stock knuckles, i turn to max lock and drive and i make a circle, its mental how much angle from stock they have, why you want..need..more?
  7. battleaxe

    Kyle Anson's Cresshita Build Thread

    i have not touched my shoes in either the supra or the cressida and both have zero material left and both do flatties all the time. oem brakes from the 80s, including rotors. i got oem shoes from toyota for around or under 100 bucks, cdn no less, so 20 bucks america. you adjust the shoes by taking the caliper and rotor off, the hell you doing?
  8. battleaxe

    Kyle Anson's Cresshita Build Thread

    let me show you how i do. yal a bunch of quitters with stock ebrake. location is stupid, but you can change that too, way less work than a stupid hydro. hydros do have their place for cars that do not have a working ebrake like miatas because they are actually the stupidest design, or cars that no longer have available parts. that drain is pretty stupid by the pictures. i grabbed a stock RB drain iirc and then welded a -10 end on it and made a stumpy drain to the stock bit. im retarded, if i can do it, so can you. 🙃 doesnt matter. at least youre doing...something car does look real good. like... real good
  9. battleaxe

    Kyle Anson's Cresshita Build Thread

    what wrong with your drum ebrake?
  10. thats just maintenance lad, the toyota will shit itself in a few days, dont u worry. u wanna swap x8 shells? lol
  11. battleaxe

    Team Running Again Mostly version x.7

    what size oil cooler lines you running? i think both the toyotas run -10 on mine and the s13 has lol -6...this is if i can remember right. one of my cars has -10...just cant remember now. the supra and cressida both have coolers with gauges and both are in the 80-90C range when hot lapping. during traffic, oil is at 70C. i used 10w30 amsoil signature series synthetic in the x8 and whatever cheap pennzoil/castrol/valvoline oil thats on sale at wal mart or canadian tire. same results. cheap oil goes black way quicker, but thats about it. thats a 13 dollar oil change vs a 40/50 dollar one mind you lol. all the same k&n oil filters. those coolers are in a crash zone to me :/ spooks me out.
  12. battleaxe

    Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia

    their living wage is the same as here, so theyre on average making 10/hr more with similar costs of living. their housing market is as varied as the entire usa with super high price for minimal space in the hot spots of living and then in the desert side, its similar to wisconson i would imagine. its not that they earn the equivilant of 20 bucks usa, its thats how far our dollars go.
  13. battleaxe

    Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia

    how much for all the conversion bits though?
  14. battleaxe

    Mediocre at Cresst - now with nsfw autophilia

    the cdx trans is an overhyped hoopty. if u can find it for a few hundred bucks, sick...but the conversion gear and misc fuckery to make them fit, a MASSIVE box, the r box is a better option imo. the issue with them is the stupid price they are ( you can even buy them new for cheaper in most cases) which is the equivalent to most of the cost of a used dumpy one. honestly, the trans options for most cars is becoming ridiculous.w's are in the 6 range and r's are in the 8-1k range. cdx low numbers are under or around 5 and the 9's if confirmed are close to 1k. im used to looking at jz motors and being like, hella ya those motors are cheap..wait...thats US and then shipping... so i lose nearly 1k in conversion of money and then an easy 500 to ship...fml...fuck my dollar conversion. not like this is oz where you make 30/hr to start and seem to roll in money where you throw money and not debt (if in USA) at problems. i hate everything. being canadian and living in canada has massive drawbacks if wanting anything not locally...and locally its also stupid expensive. i hate everything this sucks for you to have happen, especially with all the work. but that small gamble will yield theoretically the best results by having a car that should always work from here on out
  15. battleaxe

    Curse of the Cressida

    i redid the fronts when i had them out last. had them couple turns pasr snug and adjusted the lower part for height. the rear i have not taken out to adjust. i know the springs are captive and snug and the lowers are what were adjusted. ill look the whole rear over when i drop the subframe. got a lot to do on that. when i have it out ill look at the center bearing on the driveshaft to check its condition. i still dont know the vibration. all bolts are there, i took it to mach10 today and felt good at what i can assume is very fast. the car rides good, it could just be better. the whole rear is stock minus the coil and diff. ive got subframe and diff and full arm set to go in..as well as paint and bracing. might drop the tank so i can make an access hole in the car to replace the pump eventually. drove it around a bunch today and she feels good. i do know i want to upgrade my power wire. i think its too small for the length it has to go. i think its the standard thick ground cable size which i think im losing amperage.