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  2. Turbocharged400sbc

    Chitown WaGN....project from hell

    Lol truth all around.
  3. Gordo

    Chitown WaGN....project from hell

    You are happier than a pig in shit, or is it that you are a pig in shit ? Home town is shit - check Engine choice is shit - check Butchered X-chassis - check
  4. Earlier
  5. Turbocharged400sbc

    Chitown WaGN....project from hell

    If there was rust on this thing I probably take your advice but thankfully I don't care what anyone thinks. I have a junkyard amalgamation of a rednecks hot rod with a dirtbags jap car. Totally radical man
  6. Gordo

    Chitown WaGN....project from hell

    Just say fuck it, and torch the wheel wells out. That won't make me respect you, or this build any less.
  7. Turbocharged400sbc

    Chitown WaGN....project from hell

    It and the radius arms sure didn't seem that bad. I just had to shorten it. I just looked at his website and he now sells the exact length bar needed for the mx62. Yeah Penn Hardwoods are generally just a cheap compromise they work well enough when there's only a few guys like you or I who care. I loved the Watts link on my 79 RX7 I miss that car. Maybe I'd make one for the Cressida whenever I get around to the 8.8 Ford rear end. Its stock ride height the bar is actually just below level I'm kind of falling out of favor of the baseball bat routine when the magazines and jumping on the bumper work so well
  8. The Bosch EV14 injectors are supposedly meter fuel at very low pulse widths, which make secondary injectors unnecessary. I have 750s going into the 7M, for doing sequential injection, with them only being on when the valves are open, instead of up to 80%, and fuel puddling on the valve before it opens. Had to do a lot of digging to find split flow, in a horizontal pattern, but I did. Bosch # 0280158123. Everyone had them in an angled pattern, with one fuel stream hitting the roof of one port, and the base of the other. Makes for poor fuel distribution in the combustion chamber, which leads to detonation issues, unless you set it up overly rich.
  9. Dewback9

    My Couch Pulls Out, I Don't: The Resurrection

    It will be anything but "de-tuned". I meant that more in the sense of having creatures comforts and not a stripped out hardcore racecar. Overall, the goal is to (at most) max out what a stock block & R154 can handle which, conservatively, is well known to be somewhere in the ballpark of ~700whp. I already have most of the NA-T stuff, minus an intake manifold and turbo, so right now I'm planning out how I want to setup the injectors & engine management. Massive injectors are notoriously shitty for low boost street driving, so I'm toying with the idea of running a dual rail, staged injector setup where I'll maintain the stock 230's as the primaries & then run something like a set of 650's upstream closer to the plenum. In theory, it should make for great street manners but when you give it the business it wakes right up. Only caveat is you now have to tune & sync 12 injectors instead of 6 but that ain't my problem, it's the tuners. I've already found a reasonably priced source for the manifold, so now it's down to figuring out what'll be the most reliable engine management solution that isn't astronomically expensive. Another idea I've always thought would be fun to try, and along the same lines as staged injectors, is a compound turbo setup where you blend a small & large turbo setup together where the smaller one comes on first to help fill out & flatten the torque curve to minimize lag until big momma starts cookin. Again, it suffers from the same added complexity & lack of support because they are so difficult to get right, but they are fuckin awesome. On the flipside turbo tech has come a long way with things like the Borg Warner EFR & billet wheels where they've been able to minimize a lot of the drawbacks larger turbos used to have, so doing a compound setup today might be nothing more than trying to win a dick swinging contest. As you can see, I've had 10 long, daydreaming years of space shuttle syndrome & how to theoretically build the best turbo setup I can think of. I'm pretty sure we are thinking of the same person, because I remember the same thing. I've seen it on a couple of 240's and it looked like a great setup. BN makes really nice stuff, but like you said, I did notice some thin spots in the corners so I will be beefing it up where needed.
  10. I say fuck the "de-tuned" part, because all motor hear, but agree on the rest. Have the type-1 BM nose myself. I want to do two cross tubes, one at the bottom, and one at bumper height, plus lay some extra 'glass into the bottom to keep my nose from disintegrating if I come across a raccoon at night. Wish I had access to a tube bender, but am at the mercy of some damn cage builder, so pretty sure this will be a can of worms. Someone on here did make up a nice 'bash bar', don't remember who it was, but it would have done the trick. Seems like I asked about getting a duplicate, but don't remember ever getting a reply. I will have to do some digging later. Just checked, didn't keep a copy of the image.
  11. Dewback9

    My Couch Pulls Out, I Don't: The Resurrection

    Out of necessity to make room for the front mount & the state of my original bumper beam, I need to do a custom tube style with a support skeleton that'll go around the mouth and along the lower lip. I don't plan on trashing the car, but it will see regular track time abuse, so I want something that'll hold up & look nice. Dzus fasteners, quick release pins, etc. where needed plus it'll make mounting the oil & trans coolers and undertray a hell of a lot easier. Although I haven't been drifting since the car was mothballed, I have been crap-can racing in the 24hrs of LeMons on & off ever since, so I wanna have a multipurpose car that isn't just some drift missile shitbox. My overall vision is something along the lines of "If Toyota homologated the X8 in period, what would that look like?" Think BMW 3.0 CSL Batmobile & E30 M3 Evo, Mercedes190E Evo & CLK GTR etc. etc. De-tuned racecar for the street with lots of trick parts but "comfy enough" for the street. Now you can appreciate why I've had a bit of space shuttle syndrome with the car.
  12. How are you planing to support the nose?
  13. Nice my ass... Bling or the easily fooled. No seals, will fail within a year. https://shop.febest.eu/rear-knuckle-floating-bushing-tab-168z.html Ships from Europe $10.88 ea., they ship world wide, take credit cards. eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arm-Bushing-Rear-Assembly-FEBEST-TAB-168Z-OEM-A2113500306/222331162869 $18 ea., comes out of Florida. Jeeze, guessing you still think you can use an I-phone in place of a PC Damn kids...
  14. Where'd you pick up the bushing? Been looking around for these and can't seem to find a supplier outside of Australia. Price looks to be around $35 USD + shipping. Went through the Merc cross-reference list on the mbparts site & the only bushing available is PN 204-352-00-27 that goes in the end of the LCA & is $65. The lower bushing in the hub looks to be an NLA part apparently. Digging around, I also found these from FIGS engineering in Colorado: JZX90/100 REAR LCA KNUCKLE BEARING JZX90/100 TRAC LINK KNUCKLE BEARING Although a bit steep on price, they look pretty nice.
  15. Dewback9

    My Couch Pulls Out, I Don't: The Resurrection

    I saw your thread and hopefully don’t get fucked. They sent a confirmation video almost immediately of the parts in stock ready to go so who knows. Maybe the pandemic made them get their act together to actually follow through on orders but only time will tell. I’ll keep everyone posted on my order status.
  16. BoristheCat

    My Couch Pulls Out, I Don't: The Resurrection

    Have fun getting fucked by DapexWorks. We all got fucked, even with PayPal. Read my thread. Read the Dapex for sale thread. Sorry for your loss
  17. Dewback9

    My Couch Pulls Out, I Don't: The Resurrection

    Kit is authentic BN Sports ordered through Mastermind/Faction Motorsports at the end of December 2020, delivered June 16th, 2021. Originally they quoted 5 mos. lead time but it ended up being around 5 1/2 mos. The flares are from Monsterservice out of Russian which are for the Mark II. Ordered second week of June 2020, delivered end of July 2020 (~6 weeks). Took about 3 weeks to make & 3 weeks ship time. I also just put in an order to DApexWorks for a hood, rear roof wing & a set of widened front fenders that have the correct Chaser sidelight cutout & Cressida rear edge. Hopefully the shipping lead time is the same as Monsterservice since they're coming from Russia as well. BTW, they now have a Paypal option so no more worrying about wiring money to some stranger in Russia & getting flagged by the FBI. As you can tell, the flares (especially in the rear) are gonna be a job to get them to fit correctly since the doors profile, door handle placement & rear quarters are different between the cars. On top of that, I need to figure out how I'm going to blend both ends of the skirts to the flares. I might just chop off the lower section of the front flares below the body molding line since that's the top edge of the skirts & that part of the flare was meant to hug the body anyway (see 3rd pic) but there might be a weird gap since that part of the flare is meant to curve into the rear of the wheel well as well. I'll wait to mess with that until the fenders show up & I can go from there. There's a lower piece of the rear flares that's not mocked up in the pics that will need to be blended to the rear of the skirts. The Monsterservice kit comes with taller OEM style skirts, so grafting it shouldn't be too hard if I take my time to not make it look like shit. I'm more concerned with the fit of the rear flares at the rear door line, so again, we'll see. Nothing is ever easy with these stupid cars, so I'm blazing my own trail. For an overall update, here's a quick overview to get everyone up to speed: As you guys know, I mothballed the car & my partial hoard of parts back around 2012 because I back then I was just a broke college student & couldn't fund my vision for the car for several years. I decided against doing "partial builds" along the way & instead chose to hold out, keep buying parts here & there and eventually build it the way I wanted. Well a few years turned into 5, then 7 and now it's pushing 10 years so I said to myself "Enough is enough. You have the money & aren't selling it so fuck it, let's do it." And...here we are. I'll start updating this more as the build progresses but I figured I'd get everyone up to speed on what's going on. Current plan is out with the straight piped, stripped out bassboat & in with a streetable yet fully capable & setup high horsepower track car i.e. full interior & AC for the street & a coolshirt setup for the track. First order of business is getting the stance/look of the car figured out since the fiberglass work will be the most annoying/time consuming and wait times on aero parts take the longest. After that, I'll turn my attention to the engine. So along with the aero stuff, I already have a full set of XM rear links & PBM S13 Limit Break front arms. The reason I went with the Limit Break arms (aside from the change in the front tension rod mount & added adjustability), was that I could use the extra length in the S13 arms with the wider front fender setup & still get the steering angle I want with added castor while still running baller deepdish wheels. I initially ordered just the front arms to start out, but after test fitting them to the car I found out a couple things: 1) I will need significantly longer inner tie-rods (even with the extended outer tie rod ends maxed out) And 2) Going to the absolute minimum length on the control arm by removing the extra "reinforcement sleeve/jam nut" & full positive on the camber plates still had camber at something north of -4 or -5 deg. so I will need the Limit Break tophats as well. I'll keep you guys updated as I figure out this front suspension & how the erector set goes together.
  18. Gordo

    Chitown WaGN....project from hell

    LoL, NoTech Toy Tuning. When you really need something to fail, buy TTT shit. I built a Watts link setup for my Datsun, and there is ZERO side to side movement. Bet you have a lot of angle on that panhard bar. Worst fucking way on earth to control side movement on a solid rear axle. You are about to receive the 'Top X-chassis Bubba Award' of all time. LoLoL Use a baseball bat instead of magazines... (on your head, not the Toyota)
  19. Turbocharged400sbc

    Chitown WaGN....project from hell

    Gonna have to roll em. I modified the Techno toy tuning panhard bar and even adjusting it dead center, I can't keep it from slicing one or the other of my drag radials. Now I got to remember where I stashed my Eastwood Fender roller I'm pretty sure I loaned it out to a buddy last year. I should probably go old school and just use a stack of magazines
  20. where is the aero from, when did you order it, when did you get it?
  21. jellomonk

    X81/X83 parts in San Antonio

    Thanks to Gordo, bumper skin is gone. All other items still available.
  22. Turbocharged400sbc

    Chitown WaGN....project from hell

    I used some boat hull cleaning acid to wash the car and it looks a lot better... you can still see some of the remnants of the Lichen That Grew on it
  23. Turbocharged400sbc

    Chitown WaGN....project from hell

    Fair enough, I figure it's more the craptastic roads but you may have a point. I finally got to the point where I've been beating the piss out of it and first gear is nearly useless, just lights up the Mickey Thompsons. Im waiting for my 3/4 16 LH tap to finish shortening my new panhard bar. My fat ass is slicing up the drivers side wall with the fenders and I refuse to roll them like some twat. Unless i have too
  24. Gordo

    Chitown WaGN....project from hell

    Yeah, the age old 'torque' claim, right before some kid in a honda civic hands you your ass... No wonder chicago is such a shit hole, with people like you living there...
  25. Turbocharged400sbc

    Chitown WaGN....project from hell

    Well the thing is is I actually produce torque which means I don't need a gear that allows my tiny motor to wind out and actually push it through the air at that speed. As it is... the thing is fun as hell from a dig to 75 miles an hour. I haven't pushed it past that yet. I still need to toss my wideband in before I go pushing it too hard. I haven't driven it in forever I'm having a blast
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