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- Last week
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yo this shit still available you got interior pieces?
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So a minor update, Due to time and getting over the car sitting there, I sent the car to 21Fabrications. Rear-end is now in, straight. We ended up just welding in the cross member instead of having it bolt in like stock due to only needing the diff bush to be held into place. Essentially a cross between X6/X7 Cressida's. However, mostly tack welded to make sure the engineer will be 100% happy with the plan before 100% welding it in. I have also added some tiny braces to the camber adjusters. The rack has been moved forward 20mm. However, as you noticed, the steering rack is sitting a little upright. However, this might not be a problem, but we will not know until we finish removing the slop out of the steering column/shaft. Caster mounts and arms are now in place. Other problems that have been run into are the S13 fuel tank simply too big for a low car. 100% will work if you sit at average ride height and like that Torana/VN drop tank look. So options are fuel cell, custom tank or find a stock tank and convert it to EFI. So this is all the work that happened after I dropped the car off Friday at lunchtime. So pleased progress is happening. A little disappointed I have not been able to work on it as much as I hopped. What's next? Install the engine and transmission. So what are we waiting for? The bearing for the steering shaft, Radiator and thermo's to arrive. Stainless exhaust manifold flange to be cut. 6-1 merge collector to arrive. What I need to sort out, Custom muffler for the rear of the car, want dual 2 inches in/outlets with round muffler so classic Japanese 240z style however there about 100mm too long so custom it is. I also need to work out whether I put in a hotdog or another muffler to pass engineering. a person I know passed with the same engineer on one muffler, one hotdog setup. But he had no extractors. So feeling I might be close to the limit.
- Earlier
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So after a little more listening I'm pretty sure it's actually axle bearings. Because it didn't occur to me that the sound is constant and increases with speed. I just need to find someone who can pull them for me because I don't have tools or space to do it here.
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That was me in the X8. This one is supposed to be tame. But no doubt it will do the same thing. š
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He had welded quite a few of them and said he had them in a jig, etc, etc. So yea hopefully. It would be my luck though that it's all fubared. My wife would just LOVE to hear that.
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I really hope whoever welded it had it fixtured. I've seen them welded where the tubes pulled excessively forward and caused wheel bearing issues. Do yourself a favor and have the person rebuilding it put a straight edge across the cover gasket surfaces with the carrier out and see if the axle tubes have pulled forward. The axle splines actually get worn into a barrel profile if bad enough.... the alignment rack actually showed 0 rear toe but the axle bearings were nearly a 1/4 inch forward of carrier axis....checked with a 3/4inch bar through the gutted carrier. I'm willing to bet that the pinion bearing was Rusty and you're going to find plenty of bearing damage there but while you have it apart it takes 5 minutes with a straightedge and a couple of rulers to make sure that you're not going to have more problems or dump good money into bad parts
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If you do ever finally manage to get it dialed in as I did.... it will try to kill you. JZX life in a nutshell.
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Updates: Looks like I didnāt get fucked by DapexWorks after all. Fenders showed up 1 week after being shipped, so now Iām just waiting on the hood. The fenders were flown, so Iām assuming the hood is going to come by boat which is why itās taking a bit longer. Theyāre nice, for the price at least, but they will definitely need some beefing up because of how thin they are. Iām waiting for the hood before I add the front corners but overall, I canāt complain. Here are some mock-ups and comparisons to Keithās stock fenders: The flares are going to end up aligning perfectly with the top edge, which is what I wanted and will look great. Overall, the fenders added another 1ā, which will help bring the fronts out to be more even with the rears. I also started trimming the flairs a bit and got the rears pretty much where they should be so now I just have to deal with the lower piece that goes on the skirt. The fronts are almost there, but I havenāt touched the DApex fenders yet, so the flares are a bit forward of where they will actually be. In other news, Iāve been busy ordering all sorts of cool shit: Finally found a set of my personal unicorn wheels in 18ā the other day and in a decent width so Iāll be able to at least mock up proper specs with some cheap slip on spacers before ordering new lips/barrels: I also found a set of aftermarket RUCAās so I donāt have to deal with just adding bushings to the OEM junk: Also on order are a set of the Acostal front castor brackets so I donāt have to hack something together using the thin OEM garbage with the PBM Limit Break arms. Considering how hard Iām going to beat on this thing, Iām better safe than sorry and why not, more cool shit. Last but certainly not least are brakes. Iāve been obsessing over what to do and I think Iāve finally settled on a solution. CTS-V 6 pots up front and then adapt my current set of Z32 fronts for the rears. Should be a simple set of easy to make aluminum adapters and Iāve been looking for an excuse to pick up a mini mill anyway, so fuck it. I still need to decide on the second rear set for the hydro, so Iām not sure what Iām going to do. I want beefy rear rotors, so Iām not sure if Z32 rears will be wide enough. Might just do a dual set of Z32 fronts and be done with it. Thatās all for now, but itās official. Iāve gone over the edge and donāt give a shit anymore. Iām building a 3,200lbs F1 car.
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I did not. Everything looks straight. The gears looked good. Also I think you can see it in one of my pictures but the tubes are already welded. I'm not going to be making big power but I figured better to just be done. I've moved in to a tiny apartment and not only could I not really bring many of my tools with me, we "ABSOLUTELY can not work on our cars in the parking lot" according to the lease. So it's looking like I'm taking to a local mechanic. I stopped by one after work and based on what I was saying he agreed with me that it's most likely a pinion bearing issue. Especially since it's warmer around the pinion. I'm just so sad that I'm finally back in the car and once again I have an issue. It's almost like it doesn't like being driven. š And everytime I mention I've got a new issue my wife reminds me that she wants me to sell it and get something newer and more practical. HA!
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Did you pull that axle yourself? Or was it on a pile/rack? Be aware that unless you pull it yourself it was swinging from a chain on the end of a loader and unceremoniously dumped on the pile. Water gets in through the vent tubes and because the pinion almost always points towards the ground in the pile...because of gravity. your pinion bearings end up rusting and spalling. You'll know more Once you pull the carrier and pinion yoke out. But you might be able to get away with just replacing the pinion races and bearings. Also to give you a heads up pretty much every one I've done has been a 0.028 shim for the pinion depth. When you go to measure your original one you're going to want to grind away the ridge that gets squeezed up around the edge on the outside and the inside making it very difficult to check the thickness with a caliper. I've only ever installed Ford Racing gears but from what I've heard from other guys even aftermarket gear sets tend to use the .028 shim although some go as high as 030 Even if you don't get new gears it is worth it to spend the extra money for the kit with matched bearings where one of the pinion bearings has the bore ground open to allow you to do slip fits for testing the pinion and ring gear pattern. But you'll probably be fine with the point o28 if you don't want to spend time digging around with presses and potentially replacing the bearing a couple of times anyways..... you got to be real careful pressing them off otherwise you damaged the cage and then you're buying a new bearing anyways.... I've heard these things make some awesome howling noises and wine with just the pattern being off.... one is a Crown Vic that has about 75,000 miles on those noisy gears by now. 4.56 in a crown vic lol For the foxbodys I always end up welding the tubes to the pumpkin but I end up doing that with it fixture to my welding bench to try to keep it from pulling ... so if you're planning on any sticky tires I'd say that'd be a good time to weld em. Heat the pumpkin with a torch up to at least a hundred fifty degrees before you start welding and keep in mind the tube isn't super heavy wall thickness so you're going to bias your puddle more towards the case. Cover it with a welding blanket or a pile of rags to let it cool down slowly
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Well it took like six months but the 8.8 is in. It sounded terrible and I thought maybe because we didn't put friction modifier in it. So we drained it. Put new gear oil and friction modifier. Didn't sound so bad or almost nothing. Worked on getting it sorted most of friday night and ended up missing the event I wanted to go chill at Saturday. But I was determined to get it back to texas so drove it back Sunday morning. Still no A/C so that was shitty. I'll have to get that figured out soon. By the time I got to Houston it sounded like there was a helicopter in the back of my car. The diff is hella noisy. I did manage to get a temp gun after walmart opened and it was like 170* Not terrible but not good. Stopped a few more times along the way and when we got to the apartment it was 200* at the plug to check the fluid level. It's hotter around the front of the diff so I'm guessing there is a pinion bearing problem. Found a kit online for full rebuild for like $107 will all new bearings and shims etc. Probably gonna go that route. It's actually what I wanted to do from the beginning but someone managed to convince me it wasn't necessary. I'm just hoping I won't have to purchase a new ring and pinion as well because I'm supposed to doing this on the cheap. On the bright side 70mph is 2700rpms now. So that's cool. I wasn't getting the MPGs I hoped for, could be because of a bearing dragging in the diff. But the car does roll relatively freely. So who fucking knows.
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Chitown WaGN....project from hell
Turbocharged400sbc replied to Turbocharged400sbc's topic in Build Threads
Lol truth all around. -
You are happier than a pig in shit, or is it that you are a pig in shit ? Home town is shit - check Engine choice is shit - check Butchered X-chassis - check
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Chitown WaGN....project from hell
Turbocharged400sbc replied to Turbocharged400sbc's topic in Build Threads
If there was rust on this thing I probably take your advice but thankfully I don't care what anyone thinks. I have a junkyard amalgamation of a rednecks hot rod with a dirtbags jap car. Totally radical man -
Just say fuck it, and torch the wheel wells out. That won't make me respect you, or this build any less.
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Chitown WaGN....project from hell
Turbocharged400sbc replied to Turbocharged400sbc's topic in Build Threads
It and the radius arms sure didn't seem that bad. I just had to shorten it. I just looked at his website and he now sells the exact length bar needed for the mx62. Yeah Penn Hardwoods are generally just a cheap compromise they work well enough when there's only a few guys like you or I who care. I loved the Watts link on my 79 RX7 I miss that car. Maybe I'd make one for the Cressida whenever I get around to the 8.8 Ford rear end. Its stock ride height the bar is actually just below level I'm kind of falling out of favor of the baseball bat routine when the magazines and jumping on the bumper work so well -
The Bosch EV14 injectors are supposedly meter fuel at very low pulse widths, which make secondary injectors unnecessary. I have 750s going into the 7M, for doing sequential injection, with them only being on when the valves are open, instead of up to 80%, and fuel puddling on the valve before it opens. Had to do a lot of digging to find split flow, in a horizontal pattern, but I did. Bosch # 0280158123. Everyone had them in an angled pattern, with one fuel stream hitting the roof of one port, and the base of the other. Makes for poor fuel distribution in the combustion chamber, which leads to detonation issues, unless you set it up overly rich.
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It will be anything but "de-tuned". I meant that more in the sense of having creatures comforts and not a stripped out hardcore racecar. Overall, the goal is to (at most) max out what a stock block & R154 can handle which, conservatively, is well known to be somewhere in the ballpark of ~700whp. I already have most of the NA-T stuff, minus an intake manifold and turbo, so right now I'm planning out how I want to setup the injectors & engine management. Massive injectors are notoriously shitty for low boost street driving, so I'm toying with the idea of running a dual rail, staged injector setup where I'll maintain the stock 230's as the primaries & then run something like a set of 650's upstream closer to the plenum. In theory, it should make for great street manners but when you give it the business it wakes right up. Only caveat is you now have to tune & sync 12 injectors instead of 6 but that ain't my problem, it's the tuners. I've already found a reasonably priced source for the manifold, so now it's down to figuring out what'll be the most reliable engine management solution that isn't astronomically expensive. Another idea I've always thought would be fun to try, and along the same lines as staged injectors, is a compound turbo setup where you blend a small & large turbo setup together where the smaller one comes on first to help fill out & flatten the torque curve to minimize lag until big momma starts cookin. Again, it suffers from the same added complexity & lack of support because they are so difficult to get right, but they are fuckin awesome. On the flipside turbo tech has come a long way with things like the Borg Warner EFR & billet wheels where they've been able to minimize a lot of the drawbacks larger turbos used to have, so doing a compound setup today might be nothing more than trying to win a dick swinging contest. As you can see, I've had 10 long, daydreaming years of space shuttle syndrome & how to theoretically build the best turbo setup I can think of. I'm pretty sure we are thinking of the same person, because I remember the same thing. I've seen it on a couple of 240's and it looked like a great setup. BN makes really nice stuff, but like you said, I did notice some thin spots in the corners so I will be beefing it up where needed.
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White Line Rear Sway Bar
pingpong8989 replied to pingpong8989's topic in Cressida Mark II Chaser Cresta Verossa IS Altezza
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I say fuck the "de-tuned" part, because all motor hear, but agree on the rest. Have the type-1 BM nose myself. I want to do two cross tubes, one at the bottom, and one at bumper height, plus lay some extra 'glass into the bottom to keep my nose from disintegrating if I come across a raccoon at night. Wish I had access to a tube bender, but am at the mercy of some damn cage builder, so pretty sure this will be a can of worms. Someone on here did make up a nice 'bash bar', don't remember who it was, but it would have done the trick. Seems like I asked about getting a duplicate, but don't remember ever getting a reply. I will have to do some digging later. Just checked, didn't keep a copy of the image.
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Out of necessity to make room for the front mount & the state of my original bumper beam, I need to do a custom tube style with a support skeleton that'll go around the mouth and along the lower lip. I don't plan on trashing the car, but it will see regular track time abuse, so I want something that'll hold up & look nice. Dzus fasteners, quick release pins, etc. where needed plus it'll make mounting the oil & trans coolers and undertray a hell of a lot easier. Although I haven't been drifting since the car was mothballed, I have been crap-can racing in the 24hrs of LeMons on & off ever since, so I wanna have a multipurpose car that isn't just some drift missile shitbox. My overall vision is something along the lines of "If Toyota homologated the X8 in period, what would that look like?" Think BMW 3.0 CSL Batmobile & E30 M3 Evo, Mercedes190E Evo & CLK GTR etc. etc. De-tuned racecar for the street with lots of trick parts but "comfy enough" for the street. Now you can appreciate why I've had a bit of space shuttle syndrome with the car.
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How are you planing to support the nose?
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How-To use MkIII Supra rear lower control arm bushings in X8
Gordo replied to a topic in X3,X6,X7,X8
Nice my ass... Bling or the easily fooled. No seals, will fail within a year. https://shop.febest.eu/rear-knuckle-floating-bushing-tab-168z.html Ships from Europe $10.88 ea., they ship world wide, take credit cards. eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arm-Bushing-Rear-Assembly-FEBEST-TAB-168Z-OEM-A2113500306/222331162869 $18 ea., comes out of Florida. Jeeze, guessing you still think you can use an I-phone in place of a PC Damn kids... -
How-To use MkIII Supra rear lower control arm bushings in X8
Dewback9 replied to a topic in X3,X6,X7,X8
Where'd you pick up the bushing? Been looking around for these and can't seem to find a supplier outside of Australia. Price looks to be around $35 USD + shipping. Went through the Merc cross-reference list on the mbparts site & the only bushing available is PN 204-352-00-27 that goes in the end of the LCA & is $65. The lower bushing in the hub looks to be an NLA part apparently. Digging around, I also found these from FIGS engineering in Colorado: JZX90/100 REAR LCA KNUCKLE BEARING JZX90/100 TRAC LINK KNUCKLE BEARING Although a bit steep on price, they look pretty nice. -
I saw your thread and hopefully donāt get fucked. They sent a confirmation video almost immediately of the parts in stock ready to go so who knows. Maybe the pandemic made them get their act together to actually follow through on orders but only time will tell. Iāll keep everyone posted on my order status.
