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- Yesterday
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Well, hell has frozen over, started eyeballing the Cressida again. Pulled the 4 deteriorating car covers, and 5 moving blankets off, and it got a bath. Then the main hoop was carried out, for a trial fit, but won't go past the center console, so that will needed to come, witch I have to pull the auto shifter anyway. The IS300 side skirts got a trial fit. They will need a little trimming, but nothing serious. So the BN side skirts will be sold now. Lastly, Rue's custom seat adapters went in, and marked for drilling, and where the carpeting will need to be trimmed. Does anyone know of a cat repellent that I can spray on the new car cover?
- Last week
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I plan on doing a rear arm design, but only simply due to the fact JZX100's have the same fitment, a long the lines of a drop knuckle in the drifter world.
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That is the big unknown. The 100 is cast iron, but some of the later cars, like the GRX have aluminum carriers, but so far they all have a completely different arm design. I'm getting too old to do a complete rear suspension revamp.
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Oh Fucking Crap! Just found out that the X-chassis line was finally ended in 2020 😠What started 53 years ago as the Mark-II upgrade from the Corona, ended with the Mark-X in 2020. Shit, Fuck, Damn it all! The Last X Toyota's Video
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What one, i will find one if know what Toyota it is from JZX100 is pretty much identical but has an ABS/Speed sensor mount. I currently have them set up in my rear end.
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If you stumble across one of the newer Toyota rear uprights that are aluminum, that comes close the the X8 style, let me know. I haven't even been looking for several years now. Sure would like to take some weight off the un-sprung weight of the X8 rear suspension.
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So the MX32 slowed down as I got carried away with the development of X8 parts. its been a great learning curve and I have enjoyed it so i had the whole front end drawn up this is my cut-and-shut extended LCA, a stock caster with shockworks stub axle and an adjustable knuckle im developing. as you see have measured the hub, added a disc and wheel so we can measure the angle and adjustment I decided to start developing an adjustable "pro" style LCA and the bolt-off in the distance is the stock caster location, this will be a step up from my cut-and-shut LCA. the cut and shut the "pro" the greatest learning was doing the stub axle and seeing the steering point location, it turned out the stub axle to the mounting of the knuckle was off-centre, meaning what I thought was positive akerman turned out to be zero akerman etc. so now I can cater for this in design and so on. and a picture of the adjustable knuckle im working on. camber plate, I plan on adding some castor adjustment to it from the top. bushes for the rear upright, two different types for both locations, I have also drawn up, a rear brake upgrade that has been available for some time, but just cleaned up the design, a second calliper mount for the hydro drifters. diff and subframe bushes, however, I want to make some changes to the diff bushes. rear arms not including the top arm are done. going to do the caster mounts to offer an upgrade. so once the MX32 is complete it should just be a case of getting a lot of these things made and bolting it up.
- Earlier
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Well, I may be posting more X-chassis stuff shortly. About given up on the Datsun truck, as it would probably be about a years project to bring back, even though I just located a free-be replacement box. I guy is bugging me to sell it. I told him only without the engine, maybe without the trans. If he doesn't want to pay the price of the wheels, custom radiator, and LSD, I'll just part it out, or park it in the back yard. My Cressida has been sitting way too log, damn it, and I have a lot more work into it than the old truck.
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Gordo, I was stoked to see a post in this thread and was hoping it was one of your many projects, I am sad it was just a ban from a site i know nothing about. I wanna see the car builds and non sense things you make for fun
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My various Mark IIs
aphxero replied to N.O. Drifter's topic in Cressida Mark II Chaser Cresta Verossa IS Altezza
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Too late, by posting what I did on AR(idiots)15.com, it is already common knowledge. Been through that before, even on stuff I didn't post design info with. There are a lot of starving small machine shops, and people who will send the info to chinky china to copy. No matter, I did it for myself. Next? Probably try to figure out how to do one in 9mm, or .22 rim fire.
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Whoa, that's awesome Gordo. You should sell your design back to them.
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tight thanks
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Make an offer... Also have Recaro adapters for these. Available with, or separately.
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Oh, and I got may account locked on AR15.com due to not being woke enough, and posting without giving a shit about wokeness. Wish someone would revive my home, JZXP, and maybe add a firearms section...
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Newest build (Boom-Boom Stick) AR in .45 acp. Not a weak-ass blow-back action. Not even a direct impingement action. But a Piston Driven action. Had a 45 DI, piss poor POS upper made by a shit-kicker calling himself 'Macon Armory'. Yes, it worked, but because the only way he could get it to work was by putting the gas port right past the case mouth, which led to much gas in shooter's face when firing, and extreme fouling of the action. All the idiots on AR15.com raved over his .45 uppers because they couldn't build one themselves, hell they cant put a normal AR together without fucking it up. I had asked the idiot at Macon Armory (Rudy) before purchasing that piece of shit, if he had ever tried doing a piston system, he said yes, but could never get it to work. Then, after getting fed up with all the other issues with his POS upper I decided to tear the shit upper down, and have a go at a piston build. Contacted Adams Arms, manufacture of one of the 2 leading piston kits for ARs, and asked him if he had any insight on piston driving a pistol caliber carbine. He said it wouldn't work due to the low chamber pressure of a .45 acp round. That round only develops around 20,000 psi, where as a 5.56 is up around 60,000. That made perfect sense, but far from a limiting factor. Adams Arms piston kit: Being an engine guy, and well versed on all things fluid power (hydraulic & pneumatic), the path forward was clear... Want more power out of a NA engine, make it larger. Want a, let's say, a lift have more power, but have limited pressure available, use a larger cylinder. So picked up an Adam's kit, and made a larger piston & cylinder for it. Their kits use a .312" dia piston, so first try was 1/2" diameter. Almost, but not quite. It would try to cycle, but would not pull the spent case all the way out of the chamber. Tried going to the lightest buffer I could do, and a lighter buffer spring, and the case would clear the chamber, but not the locking lugs on the barrel. So back to the drawing board... Original Adams .312" piston & cylinder. .500 piston & cylinder Checked how much clearance there was from the piston, to the barrel, and had enough room to go to a .625" set up. I chose titanium for the cylinder & op rod on both these, to keep from adding weight to the parts that cycle. Let me say, machining titanium is not easy, especially tapping threads on older equipment without high pressure coolant system, or very controlled feeds & feeds that a CNC machine offers. .625" piston set up. Original & pistol caliber End result? It runs like a top! It runs clean, since no combustion gasses are released in side the action. The lower I used on this build was made for running M3 Grease Gun mags, so they are easy to come by, easy to load, and function perfectly. Unlike the POS Macon Armory propitiatory mags, that are only available from Rudy the jack-ass, and nearly impossible to load. Dip-shit's magazines only held 20 rounds, the grease gun mags hold 30, even though they are only 1/2" longer. Now, latest on my X8... Rue, made some custom stainless steel seat rails, so I don't have to use sliders (which are for sale). After I drill the holes, each pair of rails will be connected (welded) with a SS U-channel.
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fixed
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the November pics didn't upload for me, but the fenders look good. keep it up
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No massive updates, but the guards are complete, and I purchased an old-school trust harness and shoulder pad set to complete the period correct catalogue
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Updates are, All sensors have been purchased. The airbox has been purchased and modified. But now this happened. and I can't fit it. So the solution is going to be to move the tube elsewhere. It sucks as this box will only be on it for engineering/EPA tests here in Victoria, and then I will remove it. I purchased a TRD 2 Way LSD with a 4.3 Rear that I need to fit. all prototype metal is being re-cut out of 3mm as I found the 1mm was not that great and re-designed the heater tap mount how I fucked it when designing, but now its spot on, so I need to get it cut/bent purchased rubber for fuel tank straps. I created a Google retro speaker https://www.facebook.com/CISCOKIDSAU...77943153884800; these work rather well. Both speakers are combined in stereo, and only one action google assistant. Guards are getting repaired and vented to look like this AN fittings for whole charcoal canister setup I need to drill some holes in the tube, but modding the catch cans to work somewhat is complete. Sample of drilling. Won't go as high on the ones im using and, of course, will file/clean up.
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Treasure Trove: THIS IS NOT AN IRONIC TITLE. great deals only. STOP POSTING overpriced "wtf" type sales.
Foompla replied to Jason's topic in For Sale/Wanted
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Updates, Doubt the car will be done by December Where it is stored is flooded, and that's no issue for the car but getting it out is. The farm is a mud pit, so i can't take it anywhere until it drys out. sad but it's allowed me to start getting parts together to hit it with one big working bee on it. So I don't get how EFIHardware sells its products and has a good reputation. So as people are aware the ITB kit I purchased has been a bit of an issue to fit a 2JZ, anyway purchased their airbox that is meant to fit with their ITB kits, however, linkages would hit the box no matter what way I set up the linkages. anyway ended up in cutting notches in the airbox and from this designing covers for them that I'm, currently printing. The prototype cuts have been fine other than the heater tap mount, for some reason it's always off when I cut it, I might be jinxed. in regards to the motec M130, it turned out to be fine having a couple of inputs free and a single output. I have also sent off the guards to get vented etc to look like the below. So Custom work left is the rear spoiler I need to design, the tail shaft. fluid lines, loom and try and get this heater tap to mount correct. I need to decide what to do with gauges, and clusters., do I get the stock one working, or do I mod the stock one and add an elite micro-gauge or some other small canbus gauge? or do I go silly and buy a motec C1212? I think the elite micro will be the go, but still think a motec would be nice. then everything else seems to be off-the-shelf items, like buy clutch, headlights, battery, clutch slave, master etc and some tires. The rare part I'm on the lookout for is Trust 4-point harness with buckle x2, don't care if they are out of date, it's simply for show and to finish off the trust/greddy catalogue. so there we go. sorry, it's not a crazy update and lots of pictures or a start vid/skid vid. but hopefully, I can get a lot of it done early in the next year.
