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1j 2j guys Switching to synthetic?


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#61 lonelywanderer

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 05:01 AM

idk if the previous owner was running synthetic or not but i've been running amsoil 10w30 and havent had any problems with oil consumption or smoking on my 2j to my surprise as the oil looked pretty thin. gonna try go with a heavier weight and one of those larger wix filters soon

#62 Jacob

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 07:10 AM

wow. skip from page 1 to page 3... it's like a person will make a post with 90% truth and 10% opinion. And all the rest of you ignore it and continue in this pointless banter about how your slightly different approach has always done you right or some half scheme to get an imaginary advantage.

I use charmin toilet paper in layers as an airfilter ...runs like a champ. For better gas mileage, I'm runnin straight 27"s yo. As a fuel additive, one handle of Everclear to every tank of E85 ...and a scotch bonnet pepper. And oil, I don't even run that shit. You all are cattle. The government is just trying to keep us dependent on oil and justify their wars. Like lambs to the slaughter, all of YOU!!!! THE END IS NIGH! I TELL YOU A TRUTH!! THE END IS NIGH!!!!
All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake in the day to find that it was vanity: but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible. This I do.

#63 Kyle

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 07:16 AM

Moo, nigga, moo.

Now running 10-30 castrol full syn

#64 rayray

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 04:36 PM

was going to post up some specs for different oils up but since it only applied to the oil weights i use, and for the sake of jacob's sanity of staying on topic of the OP's question, i'll leave it out.

but if you're switching to synthetic, and your seals are already tired and worn, might as well replace them and make the switch. synthetic all the way bro!

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#65 Kyle

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 02:34 AM

Synthetic affects the integrity of old seals?

There's nothing you can do about Jacobs sanity, it's a whimsical creature that comes and goes. I call hes the next Gordon. In fact, move on down here Jacob, you can crash til you find a place, or just run off my gf and stay

#66 rayray

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Posted 26 January 2012 - 02:21 PM

switching to synthetic seems to be a general concern for tired motors, and people post various reasons as to why. i'm no conventional to synthetic oil expert so i personally have nothing to say

but here's a quick answer from mobil 1

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#67 rayray

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Posted 26 January 2012 - 02:23 PM

i've heard "molecules are smaller = more leaks/seepage" "deposits prematurely wearing out/ruining seals" and others

this is the most common myth i come across or hear

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#68 ChriSOL

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Posted 26 January 2012 - 02:42 PM

fuck i hate that there is so much misinformation floating around out there and 99% of it is anecdotal. I was told by a lot of people, including long-time mechanics, that my phantom oil pressure issues were due to switching to Mobile 1 10w30 from the Brad Penn oil that was in there before for maybe 1,000 miles. I switched to 15w40 conventional oil, then had to go to 10w40 when i couldn't find the 15w shit.

my mechanical oil pressure gauge showed high 40psi during warmup and around 25-30 after the engine was fully warmed and driven normally for about 30 miles. Sometimes I hear people talking about how pressure up to 125psi is normal under cold start, and 40 is normal for warmed up and driven conditions... fuck my head hurts from all this bullshit.

My friend that lives in US showed me CraigsList while we search for my Cressida. You find lots of odd things on that site. Lots of fat US girls looking for a free ride from black basketball type American man.


#69 Guest_pacevedo2_*

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Posted 16 August 2012 - 10:31 PM

from my experience with my is300 royal purple was the best. i used mobil, castrol, penzoil, valvoliine. the royal purples detergents lasted way longer than the others. i would have to check to make sure the car was even on at stoplights. i believe in royal purple. the others had the same pep but eventually the pep would fade off faster compared to royal purple. i used 5w 30

#70 Guest_Tbone_*

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Posted 24 August 2012 - 05:01 PM

Royal purple 15w40/K&N oil filter.Best thing since sliced bread.No issues,no leaks,engine loves the shit.

/thread

#71 brian

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 07:08 AM

From what I've read pretty much all oils come from the same base stock. The GL rating determines their additives, so it really doesn't matter what brand you pick.

So on that note I want to try some of the specialty blends of oil with high zinc ratings though. I think JZs prefer a high zinc ratio and most oils starting after 1999 are in the mid 800s ppm. Oils used to have 1200+.
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#72 jackc

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Posted 04 September 2012 - 09:41 PM

I've always ran 10w30 syn Mobil 1 on my 1J and I beat the shit out of it.

Recently switched to 15w50 Mobil 1. Car seems to like it

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#73 ChriSOL

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 06:34 AM

i refuse to believe in a lot of the hype about oil brands etc... and i spent my time reading the resources about additives and bullshit. that being said i have had some stupid oil related issues when switching between "weights" and types, so it seems like i need to be more thorough.

 

i buy my oil at wal mart because you can get a 5qt jug of any full synthetic for $25. always used Mobil1. being wal mart, they were out of stock of the normal 10w30 for like 3 months so i bought a jug of the 10w30 for high mileage. i figured why not? probably same shit, just marketing gimmick. it was the same price. i changed my oil and within a week my miata had the notorious lifter tick on cooler mornings. it's been like 20k miles of oil changes with the regular stuff and i had never heard a single tick before then. changed it again last week with the regular 10w30 and there's no sign of tick anymore.

 

i used the 10w40 high mileage Mobil conventional in my 1jz because on full syn or any oil without the "high mileage" sticker, the twins smoke on idle down. I'm about to switch back to synthetic when i start driving it again soon, and i fully expect more smoking to occur as a result.



My friend that lives in US showed me CraigsList while we search for my Cressida. You find lots of odd things on that site. Lots of fat US girls looking for a free ride from black basketball type American man.


#74 Guest_gameface_*

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 04:44 PM

5w-40 castrol synthetic that is vw 502 spec, i chose it because audi(or any vw brand) has standards for a higher quality oil. Basically an oil that is capable for intervals as high as 30,000km(not for every engine though) and severe duty. They have engines with similar specifications as our toyotas, aluminum head, cast iron block, turbocharged, similar tolerances.

 

My personal experience:

Personally I've seen what the vw502 spec oil is capable of, even high mileage poorly maintained, turbocharged audi's seem to avoid deposits/sludge at least ones I routinely see that get the 502 oil. My swap has been running for near 3 months, i changed the oil & filter(from the supplied oil in the crankcase + top up and new filter) on the second day of it running/driving. I've driven it every day since almost 2000 km on it, temperatures as low as -40c, oil is still clear, not sure what intervals i will do but i might actually sample the first bit and send it to a lab for testing. I don't have the tools to correctly determine the content of the oil so why net let someone who does check the content.



#75 Guest_josephin510_*

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 02:56 AM

I run cheap 5w30 in my Na2j and Rotella 15w30 in my 1.5jz....



#76 Guest_THUG_*

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 12:09 PM

"Use the oil viscosity that gives you 10 PSI per 1,000 RPM under those circumstances. For some reason very few people are able to get this simple principal correct. I cannot explain further."

 

 

There is a lot more to oil than most of you realize.   Im no oil expert,  But something like 90 % of wear on your engine comes from the start up, so you want an oil that is thin enough on start up.  once at running temperature they are usually all the same

 

what oil you should run depends on where you live.  to me the brand doesn't matter, but its the weight. and i will always run a synthetic on a turbo engine.

 

for the 2 of you that care to read about it, here is a link     http://www.bobistheo.../motor-oil-101/

 

"0W-30 grade oil is not thinner than a 10W-30 oil. They both have the same thickness at operating temperature. The 0W-30 simply does not get as thick on cooling as the 10W-30. Both are still way to thick to lubricate an engine at startup."

 

 

Oil should be a certain pressure at certain temperatures.

 

 

I personally will be most likely going to a 0W-30 or 0w-40

 

Reading that link will change your mind on oil. Its a long read, but if you skim through it or at least read the first coupe of pages you will get a better understanding

 

 

"I used 0W-20 in my Ferrari 575 Maranello. It had over 5,000 miles on the clock. There will be a day (my estimate is 50,000 miles) when one will have to go to a 0W-30. In the future one will have to increase the viscosity to a 0W-40, then a 0W-50, maybe. You should use whatever it takes to get 75 PSI at 6,000 RPM during the lifetime of the engine. This formula works in all situations."



#77 ChriSOL

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 12:48 PM

read that whole thing in detail twice.

 

going 5w30 in the miata = lifter tick.

 

going without whatever high-mileage additives Mobil puts in their oil causes the twins to smoke on the 1j, which wont really be a problem too much longer.

 

the gist is, educate yourself and make a decision, determine if it's right for you based on the results you get and adjust accordingly.



My friend that lives in US showed me CraigsList while we search for my Cressida. You find lots of odd things on that site. Lots of fat US girls looking for a free ride from black basketball type American man.


#78 Guest_THUG_*

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 01:02 PM

i had to read it twice to fully understand it.

 

 

the fact of the matter is, that article is about the longetivity of your engine and giving it the oil it needs to do that and perfom its best as well.

 

if you don't give a shit about your engine and want it to last for a season, put whatever oil in you want, just don't bitch when shit starts wearing out.

 

granted.  all the 1jz engines we get are used and who knows the history on them, but its never to late to change,



#79 Guest_gameface_*

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 03:41 PM

pretty good information, but one thing I didn't see mentioned is pour point(temperature at which the oil is almost a solid) - maybe not important to most people but if you get bellow -35c temps it gets pretty important

If you want more information on a oil there is sometimes info on msds sheets, and if not normally there is a seperate document for weights with temp/viscosity/pour point/cSt

 

Anyway from castrol(synthetic) pour points: 5w-30=-39c 5w-40=-42c 0w-30=-65c 0w-20=-39c this probably isn't universal but could be, I haven't looked at other manufacturers info recently.



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Posted 13 February 2013 - 04:03 PM

yeah its not an issue in warmer climates, but in canada or cold climates (our winter vehicles)  will need thinner oils on startup.

 

but if more of you decide to read the article, you will find out that if you are starting your car at 75 degress farenheit or colder, you need a 0w-XX oil.  the second number will be determined by the condition of the engine.

 

 

to get maxium flow for your engine (which means to get maximum cooling and lubrication) you need to follow the 10 psi for every 1000 RPM rule.

 

If any of you drive your car hard, which im assuming all of you do. you will benefit from a synthetic over a mineral oil based on the fact that mineral oils have additives to reduce thickening upon cooling and those additives wear out. just one of the benefits of using a synthetic






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