1j 2j guys Switching to synthetic?
#61
Posted 24 January 2012 - 05:01 AM
#62
Posted 24 January 2012 - 07:10 AM
I use charmin toilet paper in layers as an airfilter ...runs like a champ. For better gas mileage, I'm runnin straight 27"s yo. As a fuel additive, one handle of Everclear to every tank of E85 ...and a scotch bonnet pepper. And oil, I don't even run that shit. You all are cattle. The government is just trying to keep us dependent on oil and justify their wars. Like lambs to the slaughter, all of YOU!!!! THE END IS NIGH! I TELL YOU A TRUTH!! THE END IS NIGH!!!!
7mxproject.com/bhg/rodknock/gayanalsex.html
I want cressida/markII emblems (grille/steering wheel). I'll pay $10-15 shipped depending on condition.
#63
Posted 24 January 2012 - 07:16 AM
Now running 10-30 castrol full syn
#64
Posted 24 January 2012 - 04:36 PM
but if you're switching to synthetic, and your seals are already tired and worn, might as well replace them and make the switch. synthetic all the way bro!

1989 Toyota Cressida 1JZ - back to project backburner
1988 Toyota Supra Turbo - engineless atm
2005 Toyota Matrix - the non-daily daily beater
#65
Posted 25 January 2012 - 02:34 AM
There's nothing you can do about Jacobs sanity, it's a whimsical creature that comes and goes. I call hes the next Gordon. In fact, move on down here Jacob, you can crash til you find a place, or just run off my gf and stay
#66
Posted 26 January 2012 - 02:21 PM
but here's a quick answer from mobil 1

1989 Toyota Cressida 1JZ - back to project backburner
1988 Toyota Supra Turbo - engineless atm
2005 Toyota Matrix - the non-daily daily beater
#67
Posted 26 January 2012 - 02:23 PM
this is the most common myth i come across or hear

1989 Toyota Cressida 1JZ - back to project backburner
1988 Toyota Supra Turbo - engineless atm
2005 Toyota Matrix - the non-daily daily beater
#68
Posted 26 January 2012 - 02:42 PM
my mechanical oil pressure gauge showed high 40psi during warmup and around 25-30 after the engine was fully warmed and driven normally for about 30 miles. Sometimes I hear people talking about how pressure up to 125psi is normal under cold start, and 40 is normal for warmed up and driven conditions... fuck my head hurts from all this bullshit.
#69
Guest_pacevedo2_*
Posted 16 August 2012 - 10:31 PM
#70
Guest_Tbone_*
Posted 24 August 2012 - 05:01 PM
/thread
#71
Posted 04 September 2012 - 07:08 AM
So on that note I want to try some of the specialty blends of oil with high zinc ratings though. I think JZs prefer a high zinc ratio and most oils starting after 1999 are in the mid 800s ppm. Oils used to have 1200+.
"I kinda want to get off topic here" -gizmo
#72
Posted 04 September 2012 - 09:41 PM
Recently switched to 15w50 Mobil 1. Car seems to like it
#73
Posted 12 February 2013 - 06:34 AM
i refuse to believe in a lot of the hype about oil brands etc... and i spent my time reading the resources about additives and bullshit. that being said i have had some stupid oil related issues when switching between "weights" and types, so it seems like i need to be more thorough.
i buy my oil at wal mart because you can get a 5qt jug of any full synthetic for $25. always used Mobil1. being wal mart, they were out of stock of the normal 10w30 for like 3 months so i bought a jug of the 10w30 for high mileage. i figured why not? probably same shit, just marketing gimmick. it was the same price. i changed my oil and within a week my miata had the notorious lifter tick on cooler mornings. it's been like 20k miles of oil changes with the regular stuff and i had never heard a single tick before then. changed it again last week with the regular 10w30 and there's no sign of tick anymore.
i used the 10w40 high mileage Mobil conventional in my 1jz because on full syn or any oil without the "high mileage" sticker, the twins smoke on idle down. I'm about to switch back to synthetic when i start driving it again soon, and i fully expect more smoking to occur as a result.
#74
Guest_gameface_*
Posted 12 February 2013 - 04:44 PM
5w-40 castrol synthetic that is vw 502 spec, i chose it because audi(or any vw brand) has standards for a higher quality oil. Basically an oil that is capable for intervals as high as 30,000km(not for every engine though) and severe duty. They have engines with similar specifications as our toyotas, aluminum head, cast iron block, turbocharged, similar tolerances.
My personal experience:
Personally I've seen what the vw502 spec oil is capable of, even high mileage poorly maintained, turbocharged audi's seem to avoid deposits/sludge at least ones I routinely see that get the 502 oil. My swap has been running for near 3 months, i changed the oil & filter(from the supplied oil in the crankcase + top up and new filter) on the second day of it running/driving. I've driven it every day since almost 2000 km on it, temperatures as low as -40c, oil is still clear, not sure what intervals i will do but i might actually sample the first bit and send it to a lab for testing. I don't have the tools to correctly determine the content of the oil so why net let someone who does check the content.
#75
Guest_josephin510_*
Posted 13 February 2013 - 02:56 AM
I run cheap 5w30 in my Na2j and Rotella 15w30 in my 1.5jz....
#76
Guest_THUG_*
Posted 13 February 2013 - 12:09 PM
"Use the oil viscosity that gives you 10 PSI per 1,000 RPM under those circumstances. For some reason very few people are able to get this simple principal correct. I cannot explain further."
There is a lot more to oil than most of you realize. Im no oil expert, But something like 90 % of wear on your engine comes from the start up, so you want an oil that is thin enough on start up. once at running temperature they are usually all the same
what oil you should run depends on where you live. to me the brand doesn't matter, but its the weight. and i will always run a synthetic on a turbo engine.
for the 2 of you that care to read about it, here is a link http://www.bobistheo.../motor-oil-101/
"0W-30 grade oil is not thinner than a 10W-30 oil. They both have the same thickness at operating temperature. The 0W-30 simply does not get as thick on cooling as the 10W-30. Both are still way to thick to lubricate an engine at startup."
Oil should be a certain pressure at certain temperatures.
I personally will be most likely going to a 0W-30 or 0w-40
Reading that link will change your mind on oil. Its a long read, but if you skim through it or at least read the first coupe of pages you will get a better understanding
"I used 0W-20 in my Ferrari 575 Maranello. It had over 5,000 miles on the clock. There will be a day (my estimate is 50,000 miles) when one will have to go to a 0W-30. In the future one will have to increase the viscosity to a 0W-40, then a 0W-50, maybe. You should use whatever it takes to get 75 PSI at 6,000 RPM during the lifetime of the engine. This formula works in all situations."
#77
Posted 13 February 2013 - 12:48 PM
read that whole thing in detail twice.
going 5w30 in the miata = lifter tick.
going without whatever high-mileage additives Mobil puts in their oil causes the twins to smoke on the 1j, which wont really be a problem too much longer.
the gist is, educate yourself and make a decision, determine if it's right for you based on the results you get and adjust accordingly.
#78
Guest_THUG_*
Posted 13 February 2013 - 01:02 PM
i had to read it twice to fully understand it.
the fact of the matter is, that article is about the longetivity of your engine and giving it the oil it needs to do that and perfom its best as well.
if you don't give a shit about your engine and want it to last for a season, put whatever oil in you want, just don't bitch when shit starts wearing out.
granted. all the 1jz engines we get are used and who knows the history on them, but its never to late to change,
#79
Guest_gameface_*
Posted 13 February 2013 - 03:41 PM
pretty good information, but one thing I didn't see mentioned is pour point(temperature at which the oil is almost a solid) - maybe not important to most people but if you get bellow -35c temps it gets pretty important
If you want more information on a oil there is sometimes info on msds sheets, and if not normally there is a seperate document for weights with temp/viscosity/pour point/cSt
Anyway from castrol(synthetic) pour points: 5w-30=-39c 5w-40=-42c 0w-30=-65c 0w-20=-39c this probably isn't universal but could be, I haven't looked at other manufacturers info recently.
#80
Guest_THUG_*
Posted 13 February 2013 - 04:03 PM
yeah its not an issue in warmer climates, but in canada or cold climates (our winter vehicles) will need thinner oils on startup.
but if more of you decide to read the article, you will find out that if you are starting your car at 75 degress farenheit or colder, you need a 0w-XX oil. the second number will be determined by the condition of the engine.
to get maxium flow for your engine (which means to get maximum cooling and lubrication) you need to follow the 10 psi for every 1000 RPM rule.
If any of you drive your car hard, which im assuming all of you do. you will benefit from a synthetic over a mineral oil based on the fact that mineral oils have additives to reduce thickening upon cooling and those additives wear out. just one of the benefits of using a synthetic
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