28 replies to this topic

[Big Fuckin Shooter]

I'm not usually the type to make this kind of thread, but this shit has me confused, and I can't find an answer anywhere.

So I did a 1.5JZ swap, and figured while I have all the shit apart, I may as well install some 550's and a resistor pack...

I had a friend who is usually pretty good with electrical shit wire in a 7MGTE resistor pack originally, but I think it was wired in improperly, and the car would not fire. I checked resistance on the three wires coming out of the resistor pack, two were 6.5, and one was 3.7 or something... So I figured the pack must be no good.

I then pulled everything back apart and wired in a V6 Acura Legend resistor pack, which has 6 resistors as opposed to the 7M's 3. Where the big black w/ yellow stripe injector 12v wire branches into 3 black w/ yellow wires, I ran two of the wires into the 12v in on the resistor pack, and left the remaining wire to continue through the harness to power my coilpacks. I then wired each injector individually to the resistor pack.

I have 12v at each injector now, and 12v at each coilpack, but for some reason I'm still not getting any fuel, and even after swapping coil packs around, I still don't get any spark at coil #1, but there is 12v there... weird shit. Did I maybe fry my injector drivers?

[lucas]

do you have the proper injector plugs? I had this problem trying to make the 1j clips work... they would plug in but would not make connection because of bad alignment of the pins.

Still running the 1j pieces cut up and flipped to fit.. They have been working fine.

[aphxero]

Check engine position sensors. srsly

[Big Fuckin Shooter]

Check engine position sensors. srsly

2J CAS is the same as 1J correct? Because I just left the CAS that was in the 2J block since the harness plugs were the same. One of my cam position sensor connectors broke so I repaired it and ruled that out by putting the wires directly onto the sensor just to make sure the connection was good.


As for injector plugs, yes I am running 1J plugs on 2J 550's. I trimmed down the brackets that hold the injectors into the rail so that the connectors would fit on them, and the tops of the injectors are not completely sealed now, does that have any bearing on their function? What did you do to the connectors in order to modify them so that they would work Lucas?

Thanks for the help homies.

[lucas]

without looking I cant be sure, just make sure the pins would be connecting. Also the way the injector clips come apart (the little black clip..inside the clip) was helping mine not work. We ended up cutting up the injector clips so they would fit on the injector correctly.

Its ugly but works. I hope to be getting the proper clips soon.

[Big Fuckin Shooter]

So I did some other shit:

-I swapped the 2J CAS for the 1J CAS which I know works

-Tried new plugs

-Triple checked timing

-Compression tested @ 150-160 across the board

-Checked all sensors

-Reinstalled 440's and removed resistor pack

-Tried friend's ECU and ignitor

-Checked for trouble codes, get code 1-4

The motor seems to almost start, it will stumble for a bit, but just doesn't want to fire up. This sounds a lot like the problem that Vert88 is having. I have the two grounds on the intake manifold secure, where is the third one located?

I also have a few connectors with no homes, presumably from the removal of A/C, Hydro fan, and manual swap (which was done in Japan by the previous owner). I'll attach some pictures of the connectors that are just hangin out.

I thought about the crank trigger sprocket.. are 1J and 2J different? Would a 2JZGE VVTI sprocket cause the 1JZ CAS/ECU to read the signal improperly, causing the engine not to fire?

Shit is getting ridiculous, and I want to drift race before snow happens. Any other ideas?

[lucas]

water temp come unplugged?

Im at a loss right now.

[Guy Smiley]

That last picture. Is that two wires? White and black with shielding wrapped around it? And if so is it coming out from in between the intake manifold? Is your cam angle sensor plugged in?

[Big Fuckin Shooter]

Yea of course the cam angle sensors are plugged in lol I'm not that incompetent. I have no idea what those two wires do, they are located underneath the intake manifold near the two round connectors at the rear of the engine bay. They are wrapped in electrical tape on the ends. Any idea what they are?

[oowee1jz]

Yea of course the cam angle sensors are plugged in lol I'm not that incompetent. I have no idea what those two wires do, they are located underneath the intake manifold near the two round connectors at the rear of the engine bay. They are wrapped in electrical tape on the ends. Any idea what they are?

automagic neutral start switch bypass?

[Big Fuckin Shooter]

Here is what it does when I crank it over:



Have spark:



This is what it does to my plugs:





wtf mate..

[aphxero]

stuck injectors? pulse wires grounding somewhere? Whats your map voltage with the car on but not running?

Have you tried running it on carb cleaner? take the fueling out of the picture. It's dangerous so be careful!

[JimmyHoffa]

Dangerous is Cam's middle name. Run it on carb cleaner and nitromethane for extra danger factor.

[Big Fuckin Shooter]

stuck injectors? pulse wires grounding somewhere? Whats your map voltage with the car on but not running?

Have you tried running it on carb cleaner? take the fueling out of the picture. It's dangerous so be careful!

I don't think its stuck injectors because these 440's worked fine a couple months ago when the 1J decided to call it quits.

MAP voltage is: Yellow/Red: 2.54 V; White: 4.95 V

I tried to start it using starter fluid, it just backfires a couple times and stumbles for a few cranks..

Is there anything special about setting the timing on a 1.5JZ? AFAIK it uses the exact same timing marks as any other JZ, correct?

[Guy Smiley]

Damn, the only thing I can think of now is cam timing. Sounds like the cams are switched or something weird like that. I'm sure you have all that under control but yeah.......... this is weird.


I guess just double checking where the lobes are on 1 and 6 at TDC.


Sounds like my car when I was trying to fire it on a 1UZ ecu because Tiger fucked me over, hahaha.

[Big Fuckin Shooter]

Shit I never thought of that, but it is definitely possible. I will pull the valve covers tomorrow and have a look. When I re-did the head after the motor was assembled I could have accidentally switched them..

But yeah, this is getting pretty fucking frustrating lol I hope I can get it figured out soon, snow isn't far away...

[Bill]

how is compression? is the block dry (cylinder walls?) had it ever run yet, fired much?

how old is the 2J bottom? ring seal ok? do you even smell gas in the cylinders if you crank it without the plugs?

if you haven't tried it yet, sometimes motors that haven't run for a while need like a capful of oil dropped into the cylinders to help them seal, sounds stupid but it works.

[I_need_money]

i agree, it sounds like what guy smiley is gettn at, something timing related. my car sounded very similar when i wired my ignitor pack wrong-
123
456
instead of
123
654

sounded like it wanted to start but when it does fire its all wrong and shit. With starting fluid it back fired out the intake and exhaust.

[Big Fuckin Shooter]

Here is my intake cam at TDC.




Y/N?

[I_need_money]

inline motors ive seen at TDC have the intake lobs and exhaust lobes facing away from each other, intake faces intake exhaust faces exhaust more or less

i really cant remeber how a jz looks rite now, let me look it up in all data

edit-
your intake cam looks rite on jz's they face inward a little at tdc , the dowels in the front of the cams are facing up, and of course the timing gears have the corresponding marks on the backing plate.