12 replies to this topic

[I_need_money]

This past weekend I installed a Weir Performance Pinion Spacer, so far so good. I ran my car all day (literally) sunday with no whine or sheared gears yet. Lately i've had nothing but shit luck with ring gears and diffs, some only lasting 10 runs. So that being said I'm pretty happy with it so far.

So first off you need one of these



Drained, cover removed, stub shafts pulled


differential and ring gear out. notice the two shims laying on the caps. DONT mix these up.



removing plate yoke from pinion- use a flat head/punch to take dent outta the nut on top. then it'll come off pretty easy. you could probably break this loose before you pull the diff but whatever its not that bad.


next you need to drive the pinion out of the housing, there is more than one way to skin a cat. just dont fuck up the splines and threads on this.
I would have liked to use a press but my weapon of choice was a hammer and a 19mm socket. It will drive the pinion rite out and clears the threads fine.


comparo of old crush sleeve and new


Now heres where you should start paying attention to the weir instructions more than me:
the plan is to set pinion bearing pre-load,

stack all supplied shims on your pinion in order of thickness with the thinnest on top. you will have to measure these with a dial indicator before you begin.


install spacer


Slide pinion back into housing, And it gets a little ghetto here...
I used a 1x4 to hold the pinion in place,
then set the plate yoke over it and drove it on with the 19mm socket


tighten the pinion nut with a impact... i mean 80 ft. lbs. then put your dial indicator on it and see what kinda movement you have.


take that number (exactly) and now remove the shim(s) thatll get rid of the pinion movment


re install pinion -check, spin and double check for pinion movement

after this remove the shim(s) that will give you correct bearing preload, read the weir instructions.

While the diff was out i had it re-welded with 1/4 plate between the spider gears (so far no chatter)


diff installatoin:
best way i can explain this to someone thats never done it is you basically roll it in. Just place ring gear shims against races hold together and it should go in pretty smoothly.

make sure the shims are in place ad re install the caps
torque to 50lbs i think, i need to re check the fsm on that.


cleaned up and filled with fluid


goin in

and done

[white_raven]

Great write up! I've been looking into one of these kits but just haven't taken the leap on it. How much torque and hp are you push threw this diff?

[I_need_money]

thanks man, i made 419rwhp 370tq at 17 psi, i run 22psi now so maybe 450-475.

[WhoreMouth_Jr]

still holding up?

[Jacob]

Was considering doing the same with my spare welded diff, but I was going to balance mine at a shop.

[aphxero]

I put one in my brother's celica a few months back it's a good product. Easier than setting a crush sleeve too! Good post dude!

That your FD in the background?

[JoeTheHook]

ya im trying to order one right now, im also interested on how its holding up

[Gibbs]

Well he drives in lots of events and is really hard on it and it has held up perfect so far so I'm gonna say he has had no problems but he would have to tell you

[I_need_money]

Well it finally died, not from pinion failure though. I stripped out the spines inside the diff lol. So ill re use the weir spacer.

It lasted 15 events at 400+ whp with allot of clutch kicking.

After taking care of the pinion, axles are next to fail, then stub shafts (hubs) , then apparently the actual differential.

I ran a rebuilt LSD rear end in Orlando after my diff died, I went out for qualifying (2 runs) then came back to tx where it blew up first run. It is pretty much a mandatory mod once your making 400 wheel

Aphxero- Nah its my friends sister, pretty nice car. Ported, single turbo, clean she built it too.

[I_need_money]

On a side note I run new 265 or 275's dunlops or Kenda only which is crazy grip and rough on all driveline components

[DuaxMachine]

Hate to burst your bubble, but that is not the correct way to properly set bearing clearance on the pinion.

You are supposed to get it tight enough to reach a certain level of required torque to turn the pinion when the nut is tight.
This is called 'bearing pre-load'.
By just shimming until there is no end play, it is too loose.
This is normally a shim less than when all end play goes away.
Check the TSRM if you don't believe me.

I can throw out a torque figure, but it's from an X8/Supra diff, and not sure if the little baby X7 takes the same figure.

On another note, some late, last ditch X7s in Japan had the larger 8" LSD in them like the X8.
I have bought the LSDs out of Japan, but have never seen the sub-frame they were hung on.

[I_need_money]

I included that, you remove the shims till you have a very small amount of movement then you remove the shim that'll give you the correct pre load.
Since the spacer is solid and literally spacing the inner race of the bearings away from eachother its a little different then the Toyota crush sleeve procedure, but yes you have to torque the pinion/plate yoke for accurate readings. The kit comes with good instructions i just wanted to show people its not that big of a deal.

I would love to have the 8 differential but cost of getting the parts and shipping might end up making irs Ford 8.8 a better route.

[DuaxMachine]

Sorry, that is what I get for breasing through a thread......